Latest news with #KarenArcanjo
Forbes
12-08-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Karen Arcanjo Champions Poland's Rich Traditions Of Yarn Craft
Karen Arcanjo Spring/Summer 2025 KAREN ARCANJO The Boho revival in 2025 saw the proliferation of handmade elements like crochet, lace, and knits on the runways and Spring/Summer collections. It was a welcome shift from the extreme austerity and restraint of quiet luxury, which had dominated the sartorial conversation for several seasons. In Poland, a new crop of emerging fashion designers are bringing time-honored traditions of yarn craft to the runways and the world. Four years ago, Karen Arcanjo established her eponymous brand in the small town of Orneta (population: 8,951). Having been raised in a household where everyday objects are always made by hand, the fledgling designer rooted her garments on handed-down knitting, crocheting, and lacework techniques. The big idea was to 'develop seamless shapes that are knitted directly into structure.' Instead of crochet and knits as trimmings for embellishment, pieces are looped and loomed directly into form. Karen explains, 'This technique gives our pieces both tension and softness. It not only reduces waste, but also reinforces our desire to create slowly and with intention.' The Toni dress, for example, was shaped and completed entirely through knitting and crocheting. Karen Arcanjo has also integrated the use of fine leathers, sheepskin, cashmere, cotton and silk, most of which are dead stock or done in small batches. When items from the previous season are unsold, they are reworked into newer pieces. Hand knitted Tori dress by Karen Arcanjo copy KAREN ARCANJO Karen Arcanjo's Moodboard KAREN ARCANJO Design codes of the brand read like an ongoing exploration of folk elements harmoniously blending with contemporary forms and tailoring. 'The influence of folklore exists in subtle gestures–the repetition of hand-done textures, rounded shapes, and ornamental stitching,' says Karen. Flared sleeves, gathered collars, long hemlines, and strong shoulders also reference traditional Polish clothing such as the Góralski wool coats or corsets worn by Mazovian dancers. Every collection is balanced out by impeccably tailored garments. These include wide leg trousers, coats, jackets, and blazers. Karen intimates, 'That tension between delicate and bold is what defines our women. It's a duality we fully embrace: craft and cut, fluid and constructed, emotion and edge. There is a sense of drama and dignity. The restraint, repetition, and proud simplicity.' Tailored pieces balance out the softness of hand knitted gowns at Karen Arcanjo KAREN ARCANJO 'It's a duality we fully embrace: craft and cut, fluid and constructed, emotion and edge. There is a sense of drama and dignity. The restraint, repetition, and proud simplicity.' Karen Arcanjo works closely and exclusively with Polish artisans. From inception, the brand has actively led the charge in establishing a regional craft initiative in Orneta and Warmia. Both towns are regarded as centers for traditional knitting and crocheting in Poland. Karen details, 'Each season, the brand organizes workshops (internally referred to as an Artisan Bridge Program) co-hosted with local community centers where older skilled knitters teach traditional techniques such as Lowicki lace loops and Kashubian cable stitches–to younger artisans. Our goal is not just to celebrate these practices but to give them continuity — which means protecting access to raw materials, and creating consistent work for the women who hold these techniques. There's beauty in the slowness of this process.' Emerging Polish fashion designer, Karen Arcanjo KAREN ARCANJO It 's not just craft as output but cultural inheritance, ensuring the continuity of tradition and consistency in quality. Karen emphasizes that artisans are engaged as partners of the brand. 'They are not employees in the traditional sense. This is not factory labor.' Karene emphasizes. 'They work under formal contracts with fair compensations and seasonal bonuses.' The same mentor artisans have worked with the brand since its founding. In the past four years, the Karen Arcanjo team has successfully guided a new generation of apprentice artisans. 'It 's not just craft as output but cultural inheritance, ensuring the continuity of tradition and consistency in quality.' Admittedly, the journey towards producing more consciously and sustainably, especially for an independent fashion brand, is one paved with countless challenges. But Karen ponders, 'To choose intentionality over markers and KPIs surely slowed us down. However, we stayed focused on investing in craft. We cultivated a culture that instilled a deep love for handmade arts and heritage mentorships. We continuously strive for transparency at every stage of production.' Light blue hand knitted dress by Karen Arcanjo KAREN ARCANJO Although deeply rooted in heritage and tradition, the brand is clear about its mission and future goals. 'In many ways, our mission is to modernize these crafts not by re-interpreting them, but by dignifying them–elevating their place in the fashion conversation,' says Karen. 'We see a balance between growth and staying true to what has birthed us. We want to become more intimate with our community through experience based events across both our native market and outside. We are opening doors to global presence, while defending our hand-craft approach.' As of this writing, Karen Arcanjo has signed on with leading e-tailers like Moda Operandi and FWRD. New pieces will be available on both sites by Fall. Printemps and MyTheresa have also expressed an interest in the brand. According to the brand's strategist, Sara King Moura, Bergdorf also wants to have a walk through with aren Arcanjo .'Establishing our presence across both the US and the European market is key,' she shares. 'Instead of rushing into broad collections, Karen Arcanjo has extended the lifespan of the Spring/Summer 2025 into Fall/Winter. This has allowed the brand to fully develop the Spring/Summer 2026 collection as our first considered, 360-degree presentation. It will be our debut collection, complete with expanded categories that include jewelry.'
Business of Fashion
11-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Business of Fashion
Why Lace and Crochet Are Everywhere Right Now
The day H&M launched its Magda Butrym capsule collection, Butrym took her husband and son out of town for a quick vacation. 'I was so nervous it wouldn't do well,' the designer said, 'but when I checked my phone, it had sold out immediately!' In fact, just minutes after H&M's website went live with the collaboration on April 25, the site and app both crashed. Subsequently, the fast-fashion giant's Instagram was flooded with angry messages from shoppers who weren't fast enough to get their hands on one of the 45 pieces from the line. Clearly, the Polish designer's signature floral appliqués, lace crochet and romantic tailoring at high street prices had hit a nerve. The doorhandles at Magda Butrym's New York pop-up are adorned with crochet. (Magda Butrym) Butrym, who started her brand in Warsaw in 2014, is certainly having a moment. She is bringing crochet and lace everywhere — even the doorhandles at the brand's New York pop-up are adorned with crochet. But while she is undoubtedly a modern pioneer of the style, which in her hands takes its influence from traditional Slavic and Eastern European clothing, hers is not the only brand driving the momentum. Fellow Polish brands Chylak and Karen Arcanjo have handwork built into their DNAs. Latvian brand Skarule, by Sabine Skarule, was one of the first to popularise crochet headscarves, pants and tops. UK-brand Shrimps by Hannah Weiland and Canada-based Beaufille, founded by Chloé and Parris Gordon, both tout crochet or lace as key elements of their recent collections. Lace also graced the runways of fashion giants like Chloé, Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen for their Fall-Winter 2025 collections, signalling that even big brands are returning to romantic, delicate aesthetics. 'In today's world where everything feels industrial and fast fashion, there's a growing demand for things that feel slow-moving and crafted,' said Ofri Weintraub, creative producer and founder of Spotlighttime, a page dedicated to highlighting independent brands and trending aesthetics. 'Intricate handiwork and delicate details feel like a rebellion against the noise of modern life. It's almost a form of soft resistance choosing something made with care, history and emotion over something made with speed.' Shoppers are taking note. On resale platform Depop, searches for 'Lace' are up 42 percent this year, while searches for 'Crochet' are up 95 percent. Google search interest for 'crochet' hit a five-year high this January. Part of this growth is driven by the booming bridal industry. Like many non-bridal brands, Magda Butrym has recently added her own bridal capsule collection, leveraging the seamless crossover in production that bridalwear bears with her core collection, along with added benefits like heightened social media exposure and added revenue. But the romantic connotations of lace and embroidery have also transcended weddings and crept their way, slowly but surely, into daily life. 'After the big trend of quiet luxury, crochet and embroidery are quite dreamy and stand out a lot,' Butrym said. 'I've been doing it already for 10 years, but now it's having its moment.' The Handmade Movement High street and fast-fashion brands have been quick to adopt the aesthetics of handwork in their collections. Weintraub pointed out that lace and crochet can be found all over platforms like Shein and Aliexpress, as well as at mid-range brands such as Reformation. Brands like Butrym's, however, are winning over customers with their authenticity. 'I think people are looking for something authentic,' said Weintraub. 'If you want to buy something authentic, you go to this designer where the aesthetic is woven into the DNA.' 'I can totally see how it's exploding, it's nice for me to see the comeback,' said Zofia Chylak, who is also from Poland and is the founder of her namesake brand, Chylak, which features traditional local embroidery and weaving techniques in its most recent collections. 'I feel we need a story when we buy something now, to know where it comes from, who made it. With crochet, lace and embroidery there is so much to say.' Chylak's Wilanow campaign inspired by the traditional clothing of Polish towns. (Chylak) The brand employs local Polish artisans, all female, to craft its handmade pieces. To make one of its signature collars takes more than 60 hours. The women who still know the techniques are usually retired and do the work out of love, according to Chylak, who worries that in a matter of years there may be nobody left who knows the craft any longer. Slavic Roots, Global Appeal Although lace and crochet have centuries-long histories that span various regions, it's no coincidence that Poland is one of the countries at the forefront of the nostalgic handmade aesthetic. 'All Polish grandmothers could crochet,' Butrym said. 'In the 1960s, during communism, there was not much in shops, no nice dresses or cute baby pieces — that pushed women to make things at home if they wanted to stand out.' Butrym feels there is a certain Slavicness in the romanticism of lace and crochet. One of her brand's recent campaigns was called 'Slavic Chic.' For her, the challenge is making the look feel relevant to the present moment. 'It was very hard for me to do it without looking too folk-ish and outdated for a modern woman,' she said, emphasising the importance of sharp styling and tailoring. What stands out about the handcrafted aesthetic is its unequivocal female dominance in a world where most big brands' creative direction is still white and male. The labels driving its resurgence tend to be female-founded and led. Both on the creative and the consumer side, lace, crochet and embroidery are resonating with women globally. It's helping Butrym connect with a growing number of female shoppers, as well as partners like H&M, despite not being a household name. 'I was surprised,' Butrym said about being approached by the Swedish retailer, 'but H&M told me that when they surveyed who to collaborate with next, my name came up the most.'
