07-08-2025
Explore Colombo off the beaten track with these tips
Sun, sand, sea, swaying palms, and Buddhist temples — I had pretty much ticked off most of this regular checklist on my previous trips to Colombo. However, on a recent visit, I decided to take a different trajectory, discovering many new facets of the Sri Lankan capital.
Museum musings
My first stop was at the leafy precincts of the white Colombo National Museum that was established in 1877 by Sir William Henry Gregory, the British Governor of Ceylon (Sri Lanka) at the time. This is a great introduction to the country's cultural and natural heritage. Walking through the space, organised into rooms and galleries, I got a sneak peek into the rich culture and heritage of the country with its historical kingdoms, Buddha statues, art, carvings, and more. There are separate displays for swords, guns, and old lamps too. Do not miss the 19th-century reproductions of English paintings, the throne and crown of the last king of Kandy, and the antique demon masks. Some important items on display include the royal throne made for King Vimaladharmasurya II in 1693 and the ninth-century Bodhisattva sandals. The museum is large and will need a couple of hours to explore. If you are up for it, also check out the National Museum of Natural History, on the northern side of the premises.
Kotte calling
Armed with some knowledge of the island's history, I set off to Kotte, also called Jayapura, an erstwhile kingdom from the 15th century. Located 10 kilometres east of Colombo, this tree-lined leafy locale is home to the ruins of the once fortified city. It is believed that the reason for the fortification was the threat of invasion by Arya Chakravarti, the Tamil king who ruled the Jaffna peninsula. The chieftain Nissanka Alakeshwara, who erected the well-planned barriers, chose an area that was surrounded on three sides by the Diyawanna and Kolonnawa rivers and by marshland, which provided ideal natural defences. The protective rampart was constructed around this area. To safeguard the side of the citadel that was not surrounded by water, an inner and outer moat were constructed. The royal palace, the Dalada Maligawa (Tooth Relic Shrine), the treasury, the mansion of Alakeshwara, the royal pleasure gardens, and other buildings were constructed within the citadel's walls.
History beckons
The Archaeological Museum in Kotte, housed in a traditional heritage home, is a good place to trace the history of the area. An old city plan on display shows important monuments, boundary stones, moats, and rivers, which gives you a fair idea of how well the place was planned. There is a display of the historical sites here as well, including the Parakumba Pirivena, Rajamaha Viharaya, Alakeshwara Palace, Vehara Kanda, Stone Ambalama, Tunnel Entrance, and Jubilee Post. The museum has an interesting display of old coins and Sinhalese literature. Interestingly, the Kotte period is often referred to as the golden period of literature, when many books were written by well-known Buddhist and Hindu scholars. Walking around the ruins of the Alakeshwara Palace, I see two foundations built close to each other made from cut 'kabok' stones. A caretaker here tells me that this is likely the mausoleum of the ruler, King Nishshanka Alakeshwara. When I am here, the place is empty, and I notice that the serenity is unmissable — cocooned in nature with bright Cassia fistula flowers in full bloom accompanied by the song of birds. The ruins are a quiet testament to the past and how the fort walls with a thickness of almost eight feet were built. Even if you are not spiritual, a stop at the Rajamaha Viharaya is recommended to admire the traditional architecture of the place.
Nature's nuances
Having my fill of history, I head to the Beddagana Wetland Park, also in Kotte, which is home to a variety of wetland birds, butterflies, and animals. The space, set amid wetland vegetation and tranquil ponds around the Diyawanna Lake, is perfect for nature lovers. A walk around the lotus-filled pond is a picture-perfect spot for Instagram-worthy images. I am told this place is also popular for pre-wedding photoshoots, and it's not hard to guess why. When I was here, I was lucky enough to spot a monitor lizard who casually crossed my path as I was admiring the vegetation. The wetland also serves the more important purposes of helping in flood prevention as well as cooling the city in the summer. This place is also great for bird watchers like me, as it is home to species like the Lesser Whistling-Duck, Green Imperial-Pigeon, White-breasted Waterhen, Red-wattled Lapwing, Brown-headed Barbet, White-throated Kingfisher, and White-bellied Drongo, among others.
Cool off in style
Once I was done with my exploration, I headed back to Colombo, where I stayed at the newly launched Cinnamon Life. Set against the vibrant backdrop of Colombo's waterfront, this 687-key luxury hotel was designed by architect Cecil Balmond. The resort's architecture is a visually stunning experience that blends the modern with the traditional seamlessly. With multiple entertainment venues and 12 vibrant restaurants, there is never a dull moment here. The integrated resort will soon see the launch of the 113-key ultra-luxury Nüwa hotel under Melco's flagship brand, City of Dreams. A state-of-the-art casino and entertainment zone, operated by Melco, premium shopping and lifestyle promenades, and immersive entertainment spaces for international performances and cultural showcases are on offer.
Colombo is upping the ante as far as making luxury travel a reality. The one place I missed seeing on the trip was Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa's home, but I know that I need another trip soon to explore this vibrant seaside destination.
