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The Star
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- The Star
In the US, fashion's spotlight falls on Black elite style and its legacy
Ralph Lauren has expanded the lens of its aspirational take on Americana with a collection inspired by the Black legacy of Oak Bluffs, a town on Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts. Featuring collegiate sweatshirts, patchwork jackets and coastal-inspired attire, the line, released in July, is of a piece with other portrayals of the Black elite that have recently permeated culture. The Metropolitan Museum of Art's 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style' exhibition, the basis for this year's Met Gala, had a section on respectability and fashioning the elite. HBO's The Gilded Age, in its third season, contrasted two fictional Black families: the Scotts, a newly wealthy family from Brooklyn, New York, and the Kirklands, New Englanders who are even more entrenched in high society. These projects have highlighted the social and economic divisions among Black Americans that have existed since at least the early- to mid-19th century, when westward expansion, industrialisation and the rise of tourism in the US opened new paths to education, riches and visibility (at least for some). Read more: 'Dandyism is a discipline': One man's take on style, identity and defying labels And, like the Met's exhibition examining dandyism and Black men's fashion as a form of cultural power, the Polo Ralph Lauren for Oak Bluffs line and The Gilded Age have started conversations about elitism and exclusion within the Black community. Online, some praised the Oak Bluffs collection ads, which feature breezy beach scenes and impeccably dressed families, for offering a vision of Black life not centred on hardship. Others saw the romanticised portrayal of Black vacationers in a rarefied enclave as out of touch. Jonathan Square, a fashion historian and an assistant professor of Black visual culture at The New School in New York, put it this way. HBO's 'The Gilded Age' portrays the opulence of the 1880s, with Black society forming one compelling part of its richly detailed fashion and storytelling. Photo: Warner Bros Discovery'When you see something so beautifully styled and, like, with radiant models and such a departure from the typical depictions of African Americans, I mean, I can't help but be sort of moved and stirred,' he said. 'At the same time,' he added, 'I do have to recognise that it's shot through with elitism and colourism and it doesn't reflect the experience of most Black folks then and now.' The collection is the second born from Ralph Lauren's ongoing partnership with the historically Black colleges Morehouse and Spelman, part of a company initiative to design clothes 'authentically celebrating heritage' that reflect 'inspirational and aspirational' facets of American life. The earliest Black elites were defined not just by wealth, but also by education, tightly knit social networks and respectability, said Carla Peterson, professor emerita at the University of Maryland and the author of Black Gotham: A Family History Of African Americans In Nineteenth-Century New York City. Respectability, Peterson added, 'was the outward manifestation of inner character and rooted in bourgeois values of hard work and moral uprightness'. Square said that fashion was a way for the Black aristocracy to telegraph an 'adherence to respectability politics'. Its members, who descended from free Black communities, conformed to Eurocentric dress codes to signal status and legitimacy in a country largely still hostile to their success. They found economic footholds before and after the Civil War through emerging industries like hospitality, Square added, and often had lighter skin, a trait that distinguishes the Kirklands from the Scotts on The Gilded Age. But the difference in wealth between established Black families like the Kirklands and newly arrived ones like the Scotts was slight when either's fortunes are compared with those of the affluent white families of their era. Because the Kirklands' and Scotts' differences were more cultural than material, the characters' attire reflects only subtle distinctions, Kasia Walicka-Maimone, the costume designer for The Gilded Age, said in an interview. For Mrs Kirkland, the costuming was expansive and varied. The variety of her wardrobe – which ranges from attire in summery whites and blues to pieces in autumnal oranges, greens and browns – is meant to show the scale of her affluence. For Mrs Scott, whose husband was formerly enslaved, Walicka-Maimone used a convertible dress – two tops with the same skirt – a historically accurate trick women used at the time to stretch a single garment across occasions. With entrepreneurial ventures in leisure towns like Newport, Rhode Island, the home of the Kirkland family, a Black moneyed class gained more influence, Erica Armstrong Dunbar, a historian and an executive producer of The Gilded Age, said in a recent interview on the show's companion podcast. 'One of the things that gives me great joy about this show is that we get to think about lives outside of the kind of typical narrative that we see or read about,' Armstrong Dunbar said on the podcast. Her sentiment echoed what fans of Ralph Lauren's Oak Bluffs collection have said about the line, named for another getaway long visited by the Black aristocracy. This month, some of its members gathered in Oak Bluffs for cultural festivals that featured events for the Ralph Lauren collection and The Gilded Age. Read more: Beyond the Met Gala, dressing like a dandy is timeless – here's how to do it The fact that Black elite style is 'having a moment' now, as some are seeking to minimise diversity and widen inequality in the US, can be read as a form of resistance, Square of The New School said, because of the way it affirms self-worth by embracing dominant sartorial codes to assert belonging. But commercial portrayals like the Ralph Lauren Oak Bluffs collection can also emphasise the class disparities separating different groups of Black Americans, he added. Speaking about the Oak Bluffs line on a panel at the recent Martha's Vineyard African American Film Festival, David Wall Rice, a professor at Morehouse College, grappled with the complexities of spotlighting the Black upper-crust. 'What does it mean to be in elite spaces and protected spaces, and then what does it mean to be elitist, to separate yourself from others?' Rice asked. 'That's something that's important for us to pay attention to as we are in these privileged spaces. What is our responsibility?' – ©2025 The New York Times Company This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
Yahoo
02-07-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Francesca's veteran joins Kirkland's as CFO amid transition to ‘Brand House Collective'
This story was originally published on Retail Dive. To receive daily news and insights, subscribe to our free daily Retail Dive newsletter. As it morphs into 'The Brand House Collective,' a multi-brand retailer and supply chain operator that includes Bed Bath & Beyond and Overstock, Kirkland's on Tuesday announced a slew of leadership appointments. Most prominently, Francesca's financial executive Andrea Courtois on July 21 will join as chief financial officer; she also previously had leadership roles at La Senza, Lane Bryant and Lands' End. Courtois succeeds longtime Kirkland's executive Mike Madden, who returned to the company in 2022 to take the post. Michael Sheridan, a veteran of Community Brands, Ceridian and Comdata, joined the company on Monday as general counsel and corporate secretary, and Mandy Gauldin has been promoted to vice president of talent and culture, the company also said. Kirkland's CEO Amy Sullivan billed this slate of appointments as a sign of 'continued momentum in advancing our transformation.' The company just a few weeks ago announced shakeups to its board and executive suite. 'The team we are building brings a powerful mix of fresh perspectives and deep expertise, united by a clear mandate: move faster, lead with accountability and drive meaningful outcomes,' she said in a statement. 'As The Brand House Collective, we're raising expectations and building an organization that delivers results brand by brand." The Brand House Collective joins Kirkland's with Beyond Inc. and its brands Bed Bath & Beyond, Overstock and BuyBuy Baby; shareholders vote on the move at Kirkland's July 24 annual meeting. The goal behind the formation of most such conglomerates is to achieve, as Sullivan put it, a 'multi-brand operating model designed to scale profitably.' Last month, as Kirkland's reported double-digit Q1 declines in its top- and bottom-lines, Sullivan acknowledged that its existing partnership with Beyond 'needed to evolve.' Beyond Inc. in May acquired the home goods retailer's IP for $5 million. The companies had forged a strategic partnership in October, when Beyond provided Kirkland's with $17 million in debt financing. The tie-ups are not just operational: These brands are also enmeshed to varying degrees. Last month Kirkland's said it is going forward with plans to consolidate real estate and then treat about 290 of its locations 'as the foundational footprint for Kirkland's Home, Bed Bath & Beyond Home, and Overstock.' That includes converting Kirkland's Home stores to Bed Bath & Beyond Home stores and co-branding Kirkland's Home and Bed Bath & Beyond Home online. Error in retrieving data Sign in to access your portfolio Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data
Yahoo
02-07-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Kirkland's accelerates transformation with leadership appointments
US home decor retail chain Kirkland's has revealed a series of executive appointments as part of its strategic shift and transformation into The Brand House Collective. The company is evolving into a multi-brand merchandising, supply chain and retail operator, leading the 'brick-and-mortar vision and strategy' for Kirkland's Home and Beyond's portfolio of home and family brands. Andrea Courtois will take on the role of senior vice-president, chief financial officer from 21 July 2025, succeeding Mike Madden. Madden will remain in an advisory position until 15 August 2025 to ensure a smooth transition. Courtois, with more than 20 years of financial experience, brings strategic planning and analysis skills, as well as an understanding of asset and inventory management. She previously held a position at Francesca's and has had financial leadership roles at La Senza, Lane Bryant and Lands' End. Kirkland's CEO Amy Sullivan stated: "We are building a disciplined, performance-led, multi-brand operating model designed to scale profitably. As we evolve, we will continue to elevate talent, recognising the leaders who are driving change from within and bringing in the expertise we need to go further, faster. 'The team we are building brings a powerful mix of fresh perspectives and deep expertise, united by a clear mandate: move faster, lead with accountability and drive meaningful outcomes. As The Brand House Collective, we're raising expectations and building an organisation that delivers results brand by brand." Michael Sheridan has been appointed senior vice-president, general counsel and corporate secretary as of 30 June 2025. Sheridan oversees all legal affairs, talent and culture, and corporate governance. He brings 20 years of experience and a track record of legal and executive leadership at Community Brands, Ceridian and Comdata. Mandy Gauldin, a pivotal figure in the company's human resources organisation for eight years, has been promoted to vice-president for talent and culture. Gauldin's previous experience includes customer-facing team leadership roles at California Closets and Estee Lauder. In her new role, she will focus on fostering a culture of performance and merit. Kirkland's posted a decrease in net sales to $81.5m in the first quarter (Q1) of the fiscal year 2025 (FY25), down from $91.8m in Q1 FY24. "Kirkland's accelerates transformation with leadership appointments" was originally created and published by Retail Insight Network, a GlobalData owned brand. The information on this site has been included in good faith for general informational purposes only. It is not intended to amount to advice on which you should rely, and we give no representation, warranty or guarantee, whether express or implied as to its accuracy or completeness. You must obtain professional or specialist advice before taking, or refraining from, any action on the basis of the content on our site. Sign in to access your portfolio
Yahoo
18-06-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Kirkland's tightens ties to Bed Bath & Beyond, rebrands as ‘Brand House Collective'
This story was originally published on Retail Dive. To receive daily news and insights, subscribe to our free daily Retail Dive newsletter. In a major rebrand and 'operational reset' announced Tuesday, Kirkland's plans to change its corporate name to The Brand House Collective, reflecting its tie-up with Beyond Inc. and brands Bed Bath & Beyond, Overstock and BuyBuy Baby. Shareholders will vote on the change at Kirkland's July 24 annual meeting. The move follows Beyond Inc.'s $5 million acquisition of the home goods retailer's IP last month. The companies had forged a strategic partnership in October when Beyond provided Kirkland's with $17 million in debt financing. Also on Tuesday, Kirkland's released its Q1 results, a raft of top and bottom line declines, and announced shakeups to its board and executive suite. Kirkland's plans are the latest in a dizzying series of branding and operating shifts at Beyond Inc. Two years ago Overstock acquired Bed Bath & Beyond for $21.5 million, rebranded to Beyond and shut down the Overstock site. Months later, the company called closing up Overstock 'a fatal mistake' and has not only restored its website but is also now planning to open Overstock stores. Earlier this year, Beyond sold a majority stake in Zulily for $5 million, after acquiring it last year for $4.5 million, and approved the opening of a BuyBuy Baby store, just months after closing all of that banner's locations. Kirkland's CEO Amy Sullivan said in a statement Tuesday that 'from the moment our partnership with Beyond began it was clear that our model needed to evolve' and that the goal is to build 'a leaner, flatter and performance-led organization — driven by transformation, anchored in accountability, and powered by new ideas that we believe will deliver results.' Becoming 'a multi-brand merchandising, supply chain and retail operator' will entail 'reducing excess inventory, closing underperforming locations, optimizing real estate assets, and enhancing talent across the organization,' she also said. To that end, Kirkland's has brought on new executives, including Express Inc. veteran Jamie Schisler as chief operating officer; Target veteran Kerri Dlugokinski as vice president general merchandising manager at Bed Bath & Beyond Home; and an executive with experience in supply chain strategy and efficiency, Courtenay Adolf, to lead global sourcing, transportation and distribution centers. The company also shuffled its board ranks. Susan Lanigan left Thursday, and those leaving June 24 include Ann Joyce, who served as interim CEO before Sullivan's appointment last year; Charlie Pleas III; Chris Shimojima; and Jill Soltau, previously CEO of J.C. Penney and Joann. Sullivan will remain, though her title will change to CEO and chief merchant and creative officer of The Brand House Collective. Joining her on the board June 24 will be Eric Schwartzman, a veteran of legacy Bed Bath & Beyond; Neely Tamminga, a co-founder of strategic advisory firm Distill and previously a senior research analyst at Piper Jaffray & Co.; Tamara Ward, previously chief operating officer at Camping World, where Beyond Inc. Executive Chairman and Principal Executive Officer Marcus Lemonis is also CEO; and Steve Woodward, previously CEO of Kirkland's Home and executive at Crate & Barrel and Pier 1 Imports. The existing tie-up between Kirkland's and Bed Bath & Beyond will continue to drive both operations and branding. On Tuesday Kirkland's reiterated plans to consolidate real estate and then 'move forward with approximately 290 of our current store locations as the foundational footprint for Kirkland's Home, Bed Bath & Beyond Home, and Overstock.' That includes converting Kirkland's Home stores to Bed Bath & Beyond Home stores, the first in Brentwood, Tennessee, in August, followed quickly by five more and, though 2026, another 75 or so, per Tuesday's release. At the same time, the Kirkland's Home website will be co-branded with Bed Bath & Beyond Home, the company said. And Overstock, previously an online-only retailer, will open its first store in Nashville, with plans to expand to about 30. The company is also 'finalizing store designs for BuyBuy Baby and other potential concepts.' The company is exploring a franchise model in addition to running its own stores. Kirkland's as The Brand House Collective is attempting this series of turnarounds and reorganizations at a volatile time for furniture and home goods retail. The segment has been in a funk following a pandemic-related boom, though May sales rose nearly 9% year over year. On Monday At Home filed for bankruptcy, citing tariffs and consumer uncertainty. Kirkland's itself struggled in Q1: Net sales fell more than 11% year over year to $81.5 million, with store comps down 3.1% and e-commerce down 26.7%. Gross margin shrank to 24.9% from 29.5% a year ago, as net loss expanded by 34% to $11.8 million. Recommended Reading Nordstrom welcomes SkinSpirit to NYC flagship Sign in to access your portfolio
Yahoo
17-06-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Kirkland's: Fiscal Q1 Earnings Snapshot
BRENTWOOD, Tenn. (AP) — BRENTWOOD, Tenn. (AP) — Kirkland's Inc. (KIRK) on Tuesday reported a loss of $11.8 million in its fiscal first quarter. On a per-share basis, the Brentwood, Tennessee-based company said it had a loss of 54 cents. Losses, adjusted for non-recurring costs and severance costs, were 51 cents per share. The home decor retailer posted revenue of $81.5 million in the period. _____ This story was generated by Automated Insights ( using data from Zacks Investment Research. Access a Zacks stock report on KIRK at Error in retrieving data Sign in to access your portfolio Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data
