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The Travel Writer's Dilemma: Share, or Gatekeep?
The Travel Writer's Dilemma: Share, or Gatekeep?

New York Times

time2 days ago

  • New York Times

The Travel Writer's Dilemma: Share, or Gatekeep?

As soon as a secret gets widely distributed, it's a secret no longer. That 'hidden treasure' I'm so eager to tell you about becomes a lot less hidden, and less of a treasure, the moment I share it. What's a travel writer to do? The very premise of the job is to tell you about attractive possibilities that you might not otherwise know about. But as those little-known jewels become better known, readers grow understandably indignant (that quiet and reasonably priced cafe is suddenly unquiet and unreasonably priced), while locals wonder how much to curse the onslaught of visitors and how much to try to make the most of them. I feel this conundrum ever more painfully because I have chosen to base myself for 37 years around the Japanese city of Kyoto. My first 30 years here, I grieved because nobody I knew ever wanted to visit. Now I mourn because everyone seems to be on their way here. Each month I receive dozens of messages — from friends, from readers, from complete strangers — asking me to tell them about out-of-the-way Japanese wonders that nobody else knows about. I understand the impulse. More than 75 million people visited Kyoto Prefecture in 2023 and most of them seemed to be walking along the narrow, once-noiseless paths that lead magically up to Kiyomizu temple at the same time. Of course, a longtime travel writer knows how to come up with diversions. I'll often recommend my second-favorite izakaya, in the same spirit as I tell friends who are thinking of Nepal that they may want to consider the less-developed Himalayan region of Ladakh, or those hurrying toward Kyoto to try quiet and cultured Kanazawa, two hours away, instead. I will share my favorite secret with a friend and offer a stranger something more generic. Besides, I know that a traveler's real joy comes in discovering a hidden treasure for herself; at best my recommendation may send her along some adjacent path, to somewhere I've never heard about. Traveling in Time But the abiding hope of travel is that beauty is resilient. Last year I happened to spend three nights in Kyoto right after flying in from California. Every morning I got out of bed at 3:15 and slipped out the door five minutes later (11:20 a.m. in my Californian mind and stomach). The streets were deserted, save for a handful of Japanese kids reeling home after a long night out. I came to know the friendly South Asian men working at the convenience store where I stopped every morning to buy a bottle of hot milk tea and a doughnut. Best of all, I was able to walk up those heart-stopping pilgrims' paths toward Kiyomizu and have them entirely to myself. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.

Big changes are coming for Aussie travellers headed to Japan from mid-2025, and they'll cost you
Big changes are coming for Aussie travellers headed to Japan from mid-2025, and they'll cost you

Time Out

time13-05-2025

  • Time Out

Big changes are coming for Aussie travellers headed to Japan from mid-2025, and they'll cost you

Planning a trip to Japan in 2026? Aren't we all! Last year, Aussies flocked to Japan in record numbers to cash in on the weak yen (guilty!). The country's global tourist tally is forecasted to jump from 36 million in 2024 to 40 million in 2025, forcing Japan to roll out some new rules and fees to manage overtourism. From mid-2025, tourists will pay more to visit Japan's top attractions, with some prices almost doubling. Here's everything you need to know about Japan's tourism shake-up. The Japanese government has already implemented several measures to curb its crazy tourism numbers, including a compulsory fee to climb Mount Fuji, a tourist ban in Kyoto's Geisha district and a daily cap on tourist numbers in Ginza Onsen. Now, Japan's set to roll out a dual-pricing system, where foreign tourists will pay higher entry fees than local residents at cultural landmarks, historic sites and theme parks. While you might wince at the thought of paying more, Japan is introducing these steeper fees to help manage crowds, protect its sacred landmarks and reduce the stress on local communities. Plus, the extra funds will go towards maintaining and preserving these popular sites so we can keep enjoying them for generations to come. Bring on Japan 2050! So, what does this mean for any Aussies heading to Japan this year? Starting in July, Hokkaido's Niseko Ski Resorts will charge tourists ¥6,500 ($69 AUD) per day, while locals will pay only ¥5,000 ($53 AUD). Hikers on the Yoshida Trail up Mount Fuji will also be charged ¥4,000 ($43 AUD) for a climbing permit, which is double what it used to be, with local residents exempt. Japan's historic network of shrines and temples will jump on the price hike bandwagon too. While prices will vary between them, locals could pay as little as ¥500 ($5 AUD) to enter each site, compared to ¥1,000 ($10 AUD) for foreign tourists. Future price increases are expected at popular sites, including Kyoto's Kiyomizu Temple, Fushimi Inari Shrine and Nara's Todaiji Temple, with the government set to monitor how the dual-pricing system affects visitor numbers before rolling out any further changes. Over in the west, Himeji Castle is taking a more localised approach with its pricing. In a controversial move, it will offer cheaper entry only to local residents, instead of all Japanese nationals. Starting in March 2026, locals will continue paying ¥1,000 ($10 AUD) for entry, while visitors will be charged between ¥2,000 and ¥3,000 ($20-$30 AUD). Down south, Junglia Okinawa, a new nature-themed amusement park set to open in July, will also adopt a dual-pricing model. It will charge overseas tourists ¥8,800 ($93 AUD), compared to ¥6,930 ($74 AUD) for Japanese residents – a steep difference of almost 30 per cent. On top of the price hikes, Kyoto is also poised to implement a tax hike on hotels and lodgings in the city. If approved, the maximum tax rate will increase up to ten times per night. You can find out more about that here. Another key change to take note of is the shift in Japan's tax-free shopping system to a refund-based model. Beginning in November 2026, tourists will no longer receive tax exemptions at the register. Instead, you'll be required to pay the full amount, including consumption tax, and then file for a refund later. While there won't be any additional fees, it will introduce an extra layer of hassle to claim your refund. Finally, Japan is preparing to launch the Japan Electronic Travel Authorisation (JESTA) system in 2025. While Aussie travellers will still enjoy visa-free travel, you'll now need to apply for online clearance before entering the country. Don't take this as your sign to book a Japan trip ASAP – we don't want to contribute to the country's overtourism crisis. Instead, explore one of Japan's charming regional towns or discover some underrated gems closer to home.

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