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Daily Maverick

Daytime dining meets Dusk delicacies in central Stellenbosch

Typically, your first day on the job includes a tour of the workplace, a pen, an introduction to your coworkers and, if time permits, someone will show you where the coffee maker is. But not when your mentor is a food editor. The country that loves to braai is eager to show you its culture, so your introduction to a new environment has to be intriguing. It might include coffee and some other treats along the way – perhaps a meal and shopping with your editor? I mean, who gets to say that they were able to accompany Tony Jackman on not just a walking food tour, but a stroll through Stellenbosch looking for a hat on a sunny day? Your first day as an intern can't get any better than that. My first meeting with Tony was at the CoCreate Hub, operated by Ranyaka Community Transformation, just outside Stellenbosch University. Visitors typically go to the nonprofit space to meet friends, dine, read or even get a haircut. Tony ordered a breakfast sandwich of some sort from LUX Caterers at the hub and I had egg and cheese on toast. He looked impressed and I really wanted him to try the fries on Leroy's menu. Tony politely took a fry and allowed me to enjoy the rest. Shortly after, Dee Moskoff, my internship supervisor, met us at the hub and as a true adventure woman, took us around Stellenbosch, suggesting stores along the way after Tony mentioned he wanted to buy a hat because he'd left his behind at home before driving across the country to meet me. It was a sunny day and he wasn't the only one in search of shopping items. I was warned we would be doing a walking food tour, and in my naivety I thought I could manage my three-inch heels through Stellenbosch. So while Tony sported his hat, I struggled behind. After our shopping excursion, Dee took us to Schoon, a cafe, since another spot was closed. Whether it's nostalgia, the kind staff or the smoked salmon I keep thinking about in the middle of the night, I have shamelessly been back to the shop since that first day in June. I have to order the pasteis de nata every visit. The Portuguese custard with sprinkled cinnamon is such a treat on a rainy day in the Cape. As the last crumb was cleaned off our plates, Dee left Tony and I to begin our walking food tour. Our starting grounds were at the Visit Stellenbosch headquarters on Church Street. I spotted the logo from a distance and was relieved to stand in place to listen to our guide, Louise Smith, as my feet rested. The ginger-haired woman with red lipstick explained that the Bites and Sites Tour gives explorers like Tony and I a chance to try locally inspired dishes with a Stellenbosch twist. So not only would I be dining and learning, but exercising? A three-in-one special. The first restaurant was at the Coopmanhuijs hotel – Helena's Restaurant. A chequered tablecloth and wine glasses were waiting for us. When we took a seat, our waitress appeared with two bottles, the Tokara Sauvignon Blanc and the Kleine Zalze Merlot 2023. You'll learn that I'm on a mission to find the best red wine during my experience in the wine-loving country, so I chose the Merlot and Tony the Sauvignon Blanc. Shortly after an assortment of goods was brought out – gypsy ham, a cheese selection, vegetarian spring rolls, deep-fried aubergines, pickled mushrooms, preserved kumquat, smoked salmon, goat's cheese croquette and rich red peppers. I was in pescatarian and vegetarian heaven. Pass the goat's cheese croquette, please. After I devoured all of the croquettes we resumed the tour. Walk, fact and sit. Fact, eat and sip. We then walked over to a coffee shop called Republique Café. In the blue-themed shop, coffee beans from Kenya, Rwanda, Brazil and Columbia are stacked on one side of the shelf. Louisa shared that coffee isn't really grown in South Africa. Between the wine and great fish, you can't have it all. Tony and I tried one of the espresso options which had the flavour of chocolate syrup and condensed milk with a traditional dash of cinnamon. On the side was a lemon madeleine with fragrant lavender, which was the perfect pairing for the hot beverage. Louisa is quite the historian and psychic. We walked past a pair of Nelson Mandela Long Walk to Freedom shoes on display at a shop. I would later learn that Robben Island would be closed until September for maintenance. Thank you, Louisa, for my glimpse of history. Next was De Warenmarkt Kos & Wyn. The fried golden goat's cheese with three beer options was quite the experience for a non-beer lover. I vaguely remember Louisa saying one of the glasses was typically enjoyed by women, but I couldn't tell you which one it was. A few kilometres later, we arrived at Wijnhuis. The greenery made the outdoor dining more enjoyable. On my plate I had a vegetarian dish with nuts, mushroom and raisin over thinly sliced cucumber. After moving the bottle of Cape Saint Blaize oceanic gin from in front of me to pour, I got a peak at the thinly sliced carpaccio on Tony's plate. Tony, Louisa and I then left the freshly opened gin and several orange peels on the table before heading to the museum, our final stop, for a tour of a colonial home, Schreuderhuis, built in 1709 – the oldest house in the country, Louise told us – where we found more lavender and a taxidermy cat. The Bites and Sites Tour is for the foodie, history enthusiast and those with sore feet! Two days later, Tony and I met at Dusk restaurant for an evening meal. After a long day of dining and sipping, we arrived at the dimly lit restaurant with a crescent logo at the entrance. The upscale restaurant made me wish I had bought the flamingo-like sweater I had tried on earlier. As I opened the delicate envelope of the mystery card, the writing revealed our dinner menu. Not just one course, or even three, but seven. Tony had warned me about this kind of Cape menu. Our first taste wasn't just to try, but an introductory game of Clue which foreshadowed my dimly lit dinner of guess the game, and by game I mean meat. What was that red meat on Tony's plate that I'd later see? And wait, did I just eat duck liver? But before that, if you have read Tony's story, you will remember that I told him to enjoy the red circular substance — he couldn't possibly devour something unfamiliar, and worse, it was his least-favourite colour, orange. From his story I learnt that a wall in his house is orange and he actually likes the colour. Was the dimly lit restaurant also affecting my memory? I am always impressed with Tony's ability to pick up on flavours and his eye for photographing his meals. He got the flavour right instantly (strawberry), while I struggled between my two hints: apricot or peach. Could the two really be that different? Peach, I whispered quietly. It was apricot. I love bread, so when the round dough topped with crystallised salt and flower-shaped butter appeared I was thrilled. The butter melted effortlessly on the bread. Next, we were served a dish called 'Snack Service'. I blame my duck liver mishap on the beautiful flower-shaped presentation. My mind quickly forgot about the duck I almost finished when the salmon gravlax landed in front of me. The herbs, carrot goodness and trout created a carrot craving my taste buds are eager to explore again. De Wetshof Lilya rosé 2024, DeMorgenzon Maestro 2021 – I listened to the sommelier, George Young, and his team pronounce wines I have never heard of or tasted, yet the often dry wines complemented the rich dishes at Dusk. The next course was called Modesty. Is that why there was a brown, crispy garnish covering the creamy content? For the wine, a Cabernet Franc 2021 is poured before us and the smoked cream lingers until the next meal. The next dish was the four Cs: cashew, coconut, and curry-covered, coal-fired sea bass. What a mouthful and I was indeed full after that. Visiting Bo-Kaap is on my to-do list and if this is a glimpse, I don't want to miss it. While Tony and I prepared for the next course, a sudsy sweetener was promised, or a rather rude sweetener, as Tony wrote. I do not exaggerate when I say I gasped as the waiter pulled off the lid to reveal the message. Tony and I headed to the kitchen end of the restaurant to watch the chefs in action, to give our digestive systems a rest. We were even able to get a tour of the wine cellar. I know the sorority and fraternity members at my school back in the US would have been jealous just staring at it. Next, a cauliflower steak, cream cheese, a pink-covered, meat-like ball and a toasted bread with garnish galore were on my plate. Tony's included venison loin. Next was dessert. After our long day of dining, I was excited for something 'light' that I could finish after my wine defeat. I gave up sipping after both I and the sommeliers lost track of which glass I had last sipped from. The yoghurt granola fixer with almond financier was paired with Graham Beck Bliss Nectar. After I cleaned my plate, I sighed in relief, but wait, there's more? Before us now was 'Nostalgia'. The strong flavour of peanut butter complemented the raisin flavour and even hints of banana. The sweetness of the Donkiesbaai Hooiwijn enhanced the flavours of the cardamom cake. By far my favourite wine and pairing for the evening. We then had two smaller treats – a miniature fried dough in orange powder with an even smaller topping that resembled an ice cream sandwich, before we were given a pink and blue rhombus candy. Finally, we were finished eating and I was quite stuffed. I almost wanted to book another Bites and Sites Tour for us to walk off our meals. Usually Tony and I sit and chat after dining, but it was getting late and I was secretly scared another delicious dessert would be placed in front of me. The two of us left the dim Dusk to enter the dark streets of Stellenbosch to rest at our respective temporary Stellenbosch homes before meeting again for another morning of dining. DM