Latest news with #KolhapuriChappal
BBC News
18-07-2025
- Entertainment
- BBC News
Prada- Kolhapuri controversy: Why luxury brands keep getting India wrong
A recent controversy surrounding Italian luxury label Prada has put the spotlight on how global fashion giants engage with India - a country whose rich artistic traditions have often suffered because of its inability to cash in on got into trouble in June after its models walked the runway in Milan wearing a toe-braided sandal that looked like the Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted leather shoe made in India. The sandals are named after Kolhapur - a town in the western state of Maharashtra where they have been made for centuries - but the Prada collection did not mention this, prompting a backlash. As the controversy grew, Prada issued a statement saying it acknowledged the sandals' origins and that it was open to a "dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans". Over the past few days, a team from Prada met the artisans and shopkeepers in Kolhapur who make and sell the sandals to understand the process. Prada told the BBC that it held a "successful meeting" with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture, a prominent industry trade statement also indicates that Prada may potentially collaborate in future with some manufacturers of Kolhapuri it's not clear what form this collaboration may take, it's a rare example of a global fashion giant acknowledging that it failed to credit local artisans and the craft it was piggybacking big brands have been routinely accused of drawing inspiration from Indian, and wider South Asian, traditions in their quest to reinvent and stay relevant - but without crediting the this year, spring designs from Reformation and H&M ignited a fiery debate on cultural appropriation after many said that their outfits appeared heavily inspired by South Asian garments. Both brands issued clarifications - while H&M denied the allegations, Reformation said its design was inspired by an outfit owned by a model with whom it had collaborated for the just two weeks ago, Dior was criticised after its highly-anticipated Paris collection featured a gold and ivory houndstooth coat, which many pointed out was crafted with mukaish work, a centuries-old metal embroidery technique from northern India. The collection did not mention the roots of the craft or India at BBC has reached out to Dior for comment. Some experts say that not every brand that draws inspiration from a culture does so with wrong intentions - designers around the world invoke aesthetics from different traditions all the time, spotlighting them on a global the highly competitive landscape of fashion, some argue that brands also don't get enough time to think through the cultural ramifications of their critics point out that any borrowing needs to be underpinned by respect and acknowledgement, especially when these ideas are repurposed by powerful global brands to be sold at incredibly high prices."Giving due credit is a part of design responsibility, it's taught to you in design school and brands need to educate themselves about it," says Shefalee Vasudev, a Delhi-based fashion writer. Not doing so, she adds, is "cultural neglect towards a part of the world which brands claim to love".Estimates vary about the size of India's luxury market, but the region is widely seen as a big growth from Boston Consulting Group say the luxury retail market in India is expected to nearly double to $14bn by 2032. Powered by an expanding and affluent middle class, global luxury brands are increasingly eyeing India as a key market as they hope to make up for weaker demand not everyone shares the Singhal, chairman of consultancy firm Technopak, says a big reason for the seeming indifference is that most brands still don't consider India a significant market for high-end luxury recent years, many high-end malls with flagship luxury stores have opened up in big cities - but they rarely see significant footfall."Names like Prada still mean nothing to a majority of Indians. There is some demand among the super-rich, but hardly any first-time customers," Mr Singhal says. "And this is simply not enough to build a business, making it easy to neglect the region altogether." Anand Bhushan, a fashion designer from Delhi, agrees. He says that traditionally, India has always been a production hub rather than a potential market, with some of the most expensive brands in Paris and Milan employing Indian artisans to make or embroider their garments."But that still does not mean you can just blatantly lift a culture without understanding the history and context and brand it for millions of dollars," he frustration, he says, is not focused on any one label but has been building for most memorable misstep, according to him, took place during the Karl Lagerfeld "Paris-Bombay" Métiers d'Art collection, showcased in 2011. The collection featured sari-draped dresses, Nehru-collared jackets and ornate called it a fine example of cultural collaboration, but others argued it relied heavily on clichéd imagery and lacked authentic representation of however, say no brand can afford to write off India as insignificant."We might not be the fastest-growing luxury market like China, but a younger and more sophisticated generation of Indians with different tastes and aspirations is reshaping the landscape of luxury," says Nonita Kalra, editor-in-chief of online luxury store Tata CliQ the case of Prada, she says the brand seemed to have made a "genuine oversight", evident from the lengths to which it has gone to rectify its mistake. For Ms Kalra, the problem is a broader one - where brands based in the west and run by a homogenous group of people end up viewing consumers in other parts of the world through a foreign lens."The lack of diversity is the biggest blind spot of the fashion industry, and brands need to hire people from different parts of the world to change that," she says."But their love and respect for Indian heritage is genuine." The question of cultural appropriation is complex, and the debates it sparks online can seem both overblown and while there are no simple answers, many feel the outrage around Prada has been a great starting point to demand better accountability from brands and designers who, until now, have largely remained is an opportunity for India, too, to reflect on the ways it can support its own heritage and uplift it. Weavers toil for weeks or months to finish one masterpiece, but they often work in precarious conditions without adequate remuneration and with no protection for their work under international intellectual property laws."We don't take enough pride and credit our own artisans, allowing others to walk all over it," Ms Vasudev says."The trouble also is that in India we have simply too much. There are hundreds of different craft techniques and traditions - each with its constantly evolving motif directory going back centuries," says Laila Tyabji, chairperson of Dastkar, which promotes crafts and craftspeople."We bargain and bicker over a pair of fully embroidered juthis (shoes) but have no issues over buying a pair of Nike trainers at 10 times the price - even though the latter has come off an assembly line while each juthi has been painstakingly and uniquely crafted by hand," she while that continues, she says, foreign designers and merchandisers will do the change can only happen, she says, "when we ourselves respect and appreciate them - and have the tools to combat their exploitation".
Time of India
17-07-2025
- Business
- Time of India
HC rejects plea against Prada
The Bombay High Court on Wednesday dismissed the Public Interest Litigation (PIL) filed against Prada in the case of alleged copying of Kolhapuri Chappal design. The court said that as per the Geographical Indications law , the affected parties (the producers associations) should have come forward to defend their case. Kolhapuri chappal is a GI products under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act. Five lawyers had filed a public interest litigation (PIL) in the Bombay High Court demanding that the Italian fashion house Prada should pay monetary compensation to the artisans making Kolhapuri chappals. Prada had presented a toe ring sandal collection at Milan that was allegedly inspired by India's Kolhapuri Chappal. The court told the five lawyers that the registered owners of the GI product should come to the court seek redressal. However, the GI for Kolhauri Chappal was awarded to the jointly two government agencies of Maharashtra and Karnataka and not to the manufacturers' associations like in case of many other GI products. These agencies have not approached the courts to defend their GI rights. Instead of taking the legal course, industry body Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce Industry and Agriculture is looking to work with Prada to help local artisans.
Time of India
16-07-2025
- Business
- Time of India
Bombay HC junks PIL against Prada on Kolhapuri sandals
Pune: The Bombay High Court on Wednesday dismissed a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) filed against Prada. The PIL concerned the alleged copying of the Kolhapuri Chappal design. The court stated that, under Geographical Indications (GI) law, the affected parties - specifically the producers' associations - should have come forward to defend their case. The Kolhapuri chappal is a GI product registered under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act. Explore courses from Top Institutes in Select a Course Category PGDM Management Artificial Intelligence MCA Leadership Operations Management Data Science Data Science MBA Technology Design Thinking Digital Marketing healthcare Degree Others Cybersecurity Public Policy Data Analytics Finance CXO Healthcare Project Management others Product Management Skills you'll gain: Financial Analysis & Decision Making Quantitative & Analytical Skills Organizational Management & Leadership Innovation & Entrepreneurship Duration: 24 Months IMI Delhi Post Graduate Diploma in Management (Online) Starts on Sep 1, 2024 Get Details Five lawyers had filed the PIL, demanding that Italian fashion house Prada compensate the artisans who make Kolhapuri chappals. by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like Kulkas yang belum Terjual dengan Harga Termurah (Lihat harga) Cari Sekarang Undo The court informed the lawyers that the registered owners of the GI product should be the ones seeking redressal. However, the GI for Kolhapuri Chappal was awarded jointly to two government agencies in Maharashtra and Karnataka, not to manufacturers' associations, unlike many other GI products. These agencies have not approached the courts to defend their GI rights. Instead of pursuing legal action, the industry body Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), which had initially written to Prada, is now looking to work jointly with the brand to help local artisans. Live Events
Hans India
13-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Hans India
Prada guilty of ‘art theft'
The beauty of Indian cultural heritage can be seen in everything. From clothes to handbag to artifacts to footwear to fashion sense, Indian style had its own unique matchless mark. Among many other Indian heritage & state of the art handicraft artworks, one such example is the Kolhapuri Chappal. The hand crafted leather sandals which originated back in 13th century in the village areas of Athani, Ichalkaranji, Sangli and Kolhapur of Maharashtra is among the symbol of rich Indian craftsmanship. These adorable vegetable tanned buffalo footwear's were naturally dyed, hand stitched and known for their durability. From excellent artisan craftsmanship to a true fashion statement, this footwear has been serving as an Indian pride legacy since last many centuries. This is the only reason why Government of India has bestowed Geographical Indicator (GI tag) mark to these unique indigenously Indian curations for the purpose of their unique resemblance in the world. But ever since these indigenous footwear legacy struck in the controversy with International Italian Brand Prada, it is unfortunate that global brands like Prada who recently copied the Kolhapuri Chappal style in their Men's summer fashion collectibles, failed to credit this Indian origin traditional footwear an inspiration. When the world loves embracing Indian arts & its cultural collectibles, why they fail to credit India as its inspiration. Kolhapuri chappal is not only a Maharashtrian pride; instead an Indian pride too, and is definitely not a Prada's art. Prada must apologize Indian Kolhapuri chappal makers, for stealing and over-pricing their state of the art Chappal design, without crediting them. If brands can credit Michelangelo, Italian, Greek, and Vermeer or graffiti makers as an inspiration for classic design in their lifestyle or fashion collectibles ranges, then why can't they equally credit & appreciate Indians too for our unique & indigenous rich cultural items & artifacts. The Italian fashion house Prada Milano until credit India, must be stated as an Indian art thief. Prada's must apologize for stating Indian Kolhapuri chappal as their unique leather footwear. It is appreciable that today many Indians have awareness about how international brands are copying so local collection, and falsely claim them as their own. To the welcoming point, many Indians come in support of these local Kolhapuri makers too. We must boycott Prada and support the local cause for the effective survival of this heritage craftsmanship. Kirti Wadhawan, Kanpur
NDTV
08-07-2025
- Entertainment
- NDTV
"It's An Indian Jhoola, Not Gothic Swing!" Internet Slams Foreign Artist's Post
Days after Prada was forced to acknowledge India's Kolhapuri Chappal as the inspiration behind its latest footwear line, another Indian invention appears to have been westernised. A recent post by a foreign artist has drawn the ire of Indian social media users after she shared an image of a traditional wooden swing and described it as a "hand-carved antique solid wood Gothic living room swing". "Please do join me on the hand carved antique solid wood gothic living room swing," the woman captioned the post. The swing showcased in the viral post is commonly known in India as a 'jhoola' in north India or 'oonjal' in south India. As soon as the post went viral, it was slapped with a community note, providing additional context about the swing, which has Indian roots. "Needs a little context! This is an "Oonjal" or "Jhula" which originated in India. Not a "gothic living room swing" Calling it Gothic takes away its rich cultural context/background," read the community note. please do join me on the hand carved antique solid wood gothic living room swing — Anne Chovy (@AnneChovy2) July 6, 2025 Social media reacts Meanwhile, a section of social media users slammed the OP for cultural appropriation, while others recalled how common it was to see such jhoolas in Indian households back in the day. "Scandinavian scarf, turmeric latte, golden milk, Christian yoga, beaded Y2K maxi skirts, and now they're out here calling JHOOLA a "hand carved antique solid wood gothic living room swing"? white people pmo so bad," wrote one user while another added: "Babe wake up they're calling jhoola 'gothic living room swing'" 'scandanavian scarf', 'turmeric latte','golden milk', 'christian yoga', 'beaded Y2K maxi skirts', and now they're out here calling JHOOLA a 'hand carved antique solid wood gothic living room swing'? white people pmo so bad — ✧ anj ✧ (@anjulaaaa) July 7, 2025 A third commented: "This is an Indian Jhoola not a gothic swing. We had a little jhula just like this, years ago. Back in the day, almost every Indian home had one, simple joys that stayed with you forever." A fourth said: "Temu sellers fitting as many keywords as possible in their product name."
