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CNN
24-07-2025
- Business
- CNN
India beckons Western fashion brands — but cultural missteps can be costly
When Prada sent several pairs of brown sandals with distinctive toe rings and intricate stitching down its menswear runway in Milan last month, observers were quick to point out their resemblance to a centuries-old piece of Indian heritage. The storied Italian fashion house may have presented the shoes as a new luxury creation, but many in India simply saw a pair of Kolhapuri chappals — traditional hand-crafted sandals with roots stretching back to the 12th or 13th century. Prada's initial failure to acknowledge the inspiration behind the shoes, which had earlier been described by the brand simply as 'leather flat sandals,' according to the Guardian, sparked fierce and ongoing debate over cultural appropriation. Critics accused the label of erasing the legacy of Indian artisans, with voices across social media calling out what they saw as blatant design theft. Within a week, Prada had acknowledged in a letter to an Indian trade group that the sandals in its men's Spring-Summer 2026 collection were indeed 'inspired by traditional Indian footwear.' In a statement to CNN, the brand said it has 'always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design.' Prada later added that it had met artisanal footwear manufacturers in India 'to discuss potential opportunities for future collaboration.' Prada's readiness to confront the controversy could be a reflection of the fashion industry's growing interest in India's luxury consumers — and a reluctance to anger them. But the episode also epitomizes how Western labels have often struggled to meaningfully engage with the country's crafts and culture. India's luxury market is on a dramatic ascent, estimated to expand from $7.73 billion in 2023 to $11.3 billion by 2028 — a rate that would likely outpace most of the world's major luxury markets, according to global consulting firm Kearney. This projected growth is fueled by a rising middle class, increased urbanization and a new generation of brand-conscious, internationally minded young consumers. But today's Indian luxury consumer is 'no longer a singular archetype,' according to the celebrated Indian fashion designer Gaurav Gupta. 'We're seeing a beautifully diverse audience, from second-gen industrialist families to first-gen digital entrepreneurs, artists and global citizens — who are all looking for something deeper than just a logo,' he said in an email. Major brands have been investing heavily in response. Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and Valentino are among the fashion houses that have opened flagship stores in Mumbai or Delhi in the last three years. Others have collaborated with Indian labels or creatives on designs intended to speak more authentically to local audiences. Some of these brands are 'adapting beautifully,' Gupta said, but the 'real disconnect happens when brands view India as a commercial opportunity rather than a cultural dialogue,' he added. 'The Indian buyer wants to feel seen. It's no longer enough to just open a flagship in Mumbai, you need to speak the emotional and visual language of the market.' Indian inspiration is as essential to Western fashion as pajamas and Madras plaid. But accusations of cultural appropriation have intensified in recent years due to the growth of internet access in the country, the rise of social media platforms and a surging sense of cultural pride. 'A lot of Indian people, including designers and artisans, are aware of their rights,' said Toolika Gupta (no relation), director at the Indian Institute of Crafts and Design (IICD) in Jaipur, in an email, adding: 'They want acknowledgement of their legacy.' In 2019, fashion house Gucci sparked controversy with its 'Indy Full Turban,' sold for $790 on Nordstrom's website. The blue headpiece closely resembled the traditional Sikh turban, prompting backlash from Sikh communities in India and elsewhere. It was eventually removed from the website, with Nordstrom quickly apologizing amid the backlash. Just this year, the clothing company Reformation was criticized for selling a blouse, skirt and scarf that reminded many South Asians of the lehenga, an Indian garment consisting of a long skirt, top and a dupatta (scarf), a staple of Indian fashion for centuries and typically draped across a woman's chest. Some took issue with Reformation's lack of acknowledgement for the garment. One TikTok user joked: 'My girl is about to go strut the streets of India… Give credit where credit is due, this is literally a lehenga with a dupatta.' She also noted that the pastel-colored blouse, skirt and scarf were strikingly similar to lehengas worn by Bollywood celebrities in the early 2000s. In a statement to The Washington Post, Reformation said the design in question was inspired by a 1990s-era John Galliano gown and scarf set owned by the model Devon Lee Carlson, with whom it collaborated on the collection. just my thoughts on these pieces from the ref x devon collab #greenscreen #reformation #browngirl #browngirltiktok #lehenga #dupatta #devonlee #fashion #springfashion #indianoutfits #southasian #southasianfashion #jhumkas #ibizaoutfits #scarves H&M, meanwhile, recently came under fire for a sleeveless sheer 'long camisole' top and trouser set that many social media users likened to the salwar kameez, a traditional Indian tunic and pant. In a statement to CNN, H&M said the design took 'inspiration from current fashion trends like dresses layered over pants and the popularity of sheer pieces, as well as various plays on transparency and movement.' It's not just labels that have sparked controversy. Frustration spilled onto TikTok last year after the fashion rental company Bipty posted a now-deleted video featuring White women wearing sheer shawls draped across their chests, describing the look as 'very European effortlessly chic.' South Asian users on the platform immediately noted the similarities between the shawl and a dupatta. Many posted their own videos draping dupattas and mockingly dubbing them 'Scandinavian scarves,' using humor and irony to highlight the apparent erasure and misrepresentation of Indian heritage. Bipty did not respond to CNN's request for comment. 'With Instagram receipts and Gen Z rage, the tolerance for bad takes is zero,' the anonymous commentator behind the popular Instagram account Diet Sabya wrote in an email to CNN. (Diet Sabya, which draws inspiration from the established social account Diet Prada, often highlights fashion industry missteps, including cultural appropriation.) 'What once went unnoticed or unchallenged is now getting called out in real-time,' the email added. 'Someone in Delhi has the same access to discourse as someone in London. So, when a show uses a sacred motif incorrectly, the backlash is fast, loud and fully deserved.' High fashion's relationship with Indian artisans stretches back to at least the 17th century, when Europe's royal tailors sought out textiles like cotton and silk from the subcontinent. Over centuries, this cross-continental exchange has transformed Indian motifs from prized curiosities into ubiquitous elements of Western style. According to IICD's Gupta, textiles such as chintz and paisley are deeply rooted in India's rich artistic traditions and have long inspired global fashion, though their origins are now frequently overlooked. But India is not just a source of inspiration for luxury fashion — it's also an integral part of its supply chains. Today, a significant segment of the industry's manufacturing is outsourced to ateliers, embroiderers and textile producers in India. Yet, despite Indian artisans' foundational role, their creations are often shipped to Europe for final assembly and can thus be labeled as being 'made' in Europe. This kind of erasure, according to Imran Amed, founder, CEO and editor-in-chief of the industry publication The Business of Fashion, has 'reduced India to a manufacturing hub while Europe gets the cultural and economic credit.' 'In India, where craft is livelihood for millions, this distinction matters even more. It's not just about symbolism — it's about economic justice and dignity,' he said via email. The backlash Prada faced 'wasn't just about a sandal,' Amed added. 'It was a broader reaction to a long history of erasure and under-acknowledgment.' Homegrown designers are helping to change things. Indian fashion is having a striking impact on red carpets worldwide — and not only on the backs of Bollywood stars. Western celebrities are increasingly embracing Indian designers, too. Cardi B wore a custom-made, electric blue, hooded sculptural gown by Gaurav Gupta to the 2023 Grammys, while Zendaya walked the carpet in a shimmering, hand-embroidered blue sari gown by Rahul Mishra at a high-profile event in Mumbai months earlier. Kim Kardashian, meanwhile, has worn designs by the likes of Manish Malhotra and Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who last year became the first Indian fashion designer to attend the exclusive Met Gala in New York. 'It's a powerful shift, almost like we're reclaiming our own narrative,' Gaurav Gupta told CNN. 'Designers from India are now presenting on the global stage not as 'ethnic' alternatives, but as innovators with our own language, our own shapes, our own ideologies. We're not adapting to fit in anymore; we're expressing to stand out.' For many Indians, the Kolhapuri chappals that Prada said it was 'inspired' by represent the ingenuity and artistry of Kolhapur, a historic city nestled in the country's western Maharashtra state. Typically crafted from locally sourced buffalo hide and tanned using traditional vegetable dyes, the sandals could effectively withstand the relentless heat and rugged terrain of the Deccan Plateau. The distinctive toe loop, which is attached to the T-strap, helped keep them close to the wearers' feet. Cutting across generational and social divides, the Kolhapuri chappal embodies both the enduring spirit of rural India and a bridge to contemporary fashion. The shoe is protected by a coveted 'geographical indication' tag — like the one ensuring Champagne is only produced in France's Champagne region — that, in theory, safeguards this symbol of Indian heritage from copycats. 'It's something truly Indian,' said Shubhika Sharma, the prominent Indian fashion designer and founder of the label Papa Don't Preach, in a video interview. Prada's initial failure to acknowledge the Indian artisans behind the design amounted to a 'missed opportunity for Indian craftsmanship,' Sharma added. About 10,000 artisan families in Kolhapur are engaged in the chappal trade, according to local media reports, though many of them struggle in poor conditions and earn low wages. In India, Kolhapuri chappals can retail for as little as $5 or as much as $100, depending on the quality of leather and level of craftsmanship. While Prada's sandals had not hit the market at the time of last month's controversy, the luxury fashion house's shoes typically retail at prices ranging from $700 to well over $2,000. For Sharma, 'everything just boils down to respect,' she said. 'Was due respect given to the creator, to the person who originated it, to the culture that originated it?' Some Western labels have proven better at engaging with Indian audiences than others. In 2023, Dior made headlines by hosting a landmark runway show at Mumbai's historic Gateway of India, unveiling a Pre-Fall collection that celebrated the subcontinent's artistry. The collection featured Banarasi brocade, mirror work, tie-dye detailing, Nehru collars and kurta tailoring — motifs deeply rooted in Indian tradition and craftsmanship. Many of the embroideries and textiles on the runway were made by the Mumbai atelier Chanakya International, which was credited for its role. The show was widely hailed as a respectful homage, with Vogue India's fashion director Anaita Shroff Adajania describing it as 'a thank you to India.' Amed, from The Business of Fashion, meanwhile, called the collaboration between Chanakya International and Maria Grazia Chiuri, then Dior's creative director, as 'thoughtful… not performative,' adding: 'Chiuri hasn't just sourced embroidery from India; she's spotlighted the artisans, acknowledged the lineage of the craft, and in doing so, helped shift perceptions of where luxury value is created.' Similarly, last month, Nike launched its first collaboration with an Indian fashion label, the Delhi-based brand NorBlack NorWhite, unveiling a vibrant range of sportswear inspired by ancient tie-dye techniques. The move was broadly celebrated by social media users in India, a country in which Nike has long struggled to make commercial inroads. For Diet Sabya's founder, however, much more must be done to ensure genuine recognition for Indian talent and traditions. 'When India is being eyed as the next big luxury market, you can't keep treating it like an exotic pitstop,' they said. 'While a few brands are finally acknowledging us as the global textile powerhouse we are — it's still crumbs. Visibility is a start. But equity is the end goal.'
Khaleej Times
16-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Khaleej Times
Prada team heads to Kolhapur: Making amends or PR stunt?
Called out for cultural appropriation, Italian fashion house Prada is trying hard to backtrack after its use of sandals that looked suspiciously like Kolhapuri chappals at a show but didn't acknowledge its Indian heritage went viral. It's latest move: A team trip to the land where the one-toed leather slippers were actually created and crafted for centuries. The group was spotted visiting Subhash Nagar factory and Papachi Tata's sandal line. Indian news agency ANI quoted one shopkeeper as saying: 'They had come to see authentic leather bags and liked our Kolhapur, especially the Kapashi Kolhapuri chappal.' And another vendor reportedly said that the group had flown down to India to inspect manufacturing units. "We offer authentic stitching and original quality Kolhapuri chappals," he said. Some netizens however found the trip a 'convenient' move and called it a PR stunt. 'So social media abuse made them realise', while another remarked, 'It's screaming PR.' 'I hope they don't learn the formula, apply on their brand and earn millions. Just outsource it to them and let them earn too,' said another user. Dubai-based PR professional Pavitra Rao said: "As someone in PR, this looks more like a smart move to fix their image than a truly honest apology. Prada showing up in Kolhapur feels more like a photo moment than real change. If they really care, we'll see it in what they do next — not just this one visit." Meanwhile, some Indians in Dubai couldn't help but dust off their old sandals and parade them, after all, they were suddenly in vogue again. Ad man Akheel Hassan said: "I bought my pair seven years ago, but haven't had much occasion to wear them. Now that they are trending though, it just made sense to dig them out and pair them up with an outfit." And celebrity fashionista Kareena Kapoor Khan took a slight dig at the brand, posting a photo of her feet in silver Kolhapuris on social media, captioning it: 'She wrote, "Sorry not Prada… (laughing and punching emoji) but my OG kolapuri (heart emoji).' Indian influencer Diipa Büller-Khosla , who is also the founder of ayurvedistry brand indē wild, weighed in on the debate, telling Khaleej Times: 'Ultimately, I'm glad Indian craftsmanship is finally being seen and valued on a global stage. But recognition without representation isn't enough. Brands have to go beyond inspiration; they need to give credit, collaborate, and create opportunities for the communities they're drawing from. Uplifting the craft means uplifting the craftsmen too.' So, what happened? The whole chappal saga began back in June at the spring/summer menswear show in Milan when the luxury brand featured open-toed sandals on the runway. Cool they might have been, but they sorely lacked any acknowledgment of Indian inspiration, resulting in a furore as A-listers (and those in the fashion business) made a quick connection between the two. The key difference seemed to be a) the brand and b) the price point. While one from a plush Indian brand will (even after all the Prada-row controversy) cost no more than Rs4,000 (Dh170, Dh46), Prada billed its fancy footwear at $1,200. Days later, Prada issued a statement on its social media platforms addressing the issue. 'At Prada Group, we have always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions. Prada acknowledges that sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear made in specific districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka, India, were featured in its Men's 2026 Spring Summer show in Milan. We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft. We are in contact with Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce on this topic.' The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce was quoted by Reuters as saying that Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada's owners and head of its corporate social responsibility, joined the talks on Friday. Since then, the news of the international trip has been making rounds. Is it simply an acknowledgement of a legacy and tradition or a bald-faced PR stunt? You decide.
DW
12-07-2025
- Business
- DW
Prada to partner with Indian artisans after sandal backlash – DW – 07/12/2025
The backlash over a sandal resembling the traditional Kolhapuri design saw calls for greater recognition of Indian craftsmanship. Prada announced plans Friday to partner with Indian artisanal footwear makers, just two weeks after the luxury fashion house sparked controversy by showcasing sandals critics said closely resembled traditional Indian designs. Prada held a meeting Friday with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, which represents 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans, to discuss potential opportunities for future collaboration, the company said in a statement to Reuters. "The next step will be for Prada's supply chain team to meet a range of artisanal footwear manufacturers," the company said. The Chamber shared photos from the virtual meeting in a post on X and said, "This initiative could serve as a model for respectful collaboration between global fashion and traditional communities." The Chamber also said that Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada's owners and head of its corporate social responsibility division, joined the talks. The controversy began when Prada showcased open-toe footwear resembling India's traditional Kolhapuri sandals at Milan Men's Fashion Week, describing them simply as "leather sandals." But Indian fashion critics, craftspeople, and politicians criticized the brand, noting the sandals closely resembled handcrafted leather shoes known as Kolhapuri chappals, worn by millions across India. The sandals are named after Kolhapur, a town in the western Indian state of Maharashtra, where they are made, and are considered part of India's rich cultural heritage. Following a social media outcry, the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce called on Prada to acknowledge the Indian roots of the design. The Chamber has decided to have the Kolhapuri chappals patented to avoid any global copyright infringement in the future.
News18
02-07-2025
- Business
- News18
Maharashtra Secures 40+ GI Tags To Protect Traditional Crafts Amid Kolhapuri Row With Prada
Last Updated: Kolhapuri Chappals are traditional handcrafted leather sandals that originated from the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, India. Kolhapuri Vs Prada: The row over the alleged imitation of the Kolhapuri chappal design without credit by global luxury fashion brand Prada has brought attention to a larger issue — the unauthorized use of India's traditional crafts, handicrafts, and heritage without any monetary reward or recognition. In response, and to protect and promote traditional crafts and manufacturing skills of the state, the Maharashtra government has announced that it has secured over 40 Geographical Indication (GI) tags for state-specific products, including Kolhapuri chappals, according to a report by The Indian Express. Maharashtra Development Commissioner Deependra Singh Kushwah said during an industry-oriented conclave in Mumbai, said Prada is now in trouble as the government has GI tags, including the Kolhapuri Chappal. He further said that good news would come for makers of Kolhapuri Chappal in the coming days and they were working to obtain 30 more GI tags in the coming few months. GI Tag stands for Geographical Indication Tag. It is a legal label used to identify products that come from a specific location and have unique qualities, reputation, or traditional know-how linked to that place. What Is The Kolhapuri Chappal and Prada Controversy? The storm began when a model appeared in the Spring-Summer 2026 menswear collection wearing the luxury footwear resembling to the Kolhapuri Chappal. Netizens condemn the luxury brand for stealing India's heritage without giving credit. A flurry of posts have surfaced on social media condemning the new showcased footwear of Prada without any credit to the original makers and cultural appropriation. Following the uproar, Prada openly acknowledged that the inspiration of its new footwear had Indian roots. A Prada spokesperson told BBC that has 'always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions", adding that it was 'in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture on this topic". A Brief History of Kolhapuri Chappal The origin of the Kolhapuri Chappal goes back almost 800 years. These are traditional handcrafted leather sandals that originated from the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, India. Kolhapuri Chappals are known for its durability and sturdiness with decorative designs, intricate patterns and regional styles. They have become India's craftmanship heritage. The royalty of Kolhapur promoted these chappals in the 13th century, helping them gain popularity across Maharashtra and nearby regions. In 2019, Kolhapuri chappals were granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, recognizing their unique identity and traditional method of production tied to Kolhapur and nearby districts. About the Author Business Desk Location : New Delhi, India, India First Published: July 02, 2025, 10:16 IST
India.com
30-06-2025
- Entertainment
- India.com
Prada Finally Acknowledges Leather-Sandals Priced Over Rs 1 Lakh Inspired By Indian Kolhapuri Chappals!
New Delhi: The Italian luxury couture label shocked the desi fans after they featured at least seven of the 56 runway looks featuring sandals that bear a striking resemblance to traditional Indian Kolhapuri Chappals - without any credit. After facing backlash over it, Prada has finally acknowleged that the footwear pieces featured in its Men's 2026 Spring/Summer show in Milan, were inspired by the traditional Indian handcrafted pieces made in specific districts of Maharashtra and Karnataka. Prada Acknowledges Indian Kolhapuri Chappals In an exclusive response to NDTV, the Prada Group Press Office mentioned, "At Prada Group, we have always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions. Prada acknowledges that sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear made in specific districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka, India, were featured in its Men's 2026 Spring Summer show in Milan." View this post on Instagram A post shared by Prada (@prada) The statement further read, "We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft. We are in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture on this topic." Priced at a whopping Rs 1.16 lakh, these Kolhapuri Chappals are trending and opened debate over cultural appropriation once again. What Are Kolhapuri Chappals? Kolhapuri chappals are Indian decorative hand-crafted and braided leather slippers that are locally tanned using vegetable dyes. The origin of Kolhapuri Chappals dates back to 12th century when the King Bijjala and his prime minister Basavanna encouraged Kolhapuri Chappal production to support local cordwainers. Kolhapuris were first worn as early as the 13th century. Previously known as Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukri, the name indicated the village where they were made.
