Latest news with #Krigler
Cosmopolitan
17-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Cosmopolitan
Orris Root Perfumes Are the Next Big Perfume Trend of 2025
What do jasmine, rose, and oud have in common? They're some of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world. Although pricey to produce and time-consuming to harvest, these notes aren't necessarily uncommon. You can find thousands of cheap perfumes made with these elegant olfactives, prices be damned. But have you ever sniffed—or heard of—orris? This rare material, which comes from the root of the iris flower, costs more per kilogram than all three of the ingredients mentioned above. Because of its price, orris isn't frequently used in mainstream perfumery. However, when a brand does decide to include the note, the result instantly captures the attention of die-hard fragrance fanatics. Take Commodity, for example: When the independent fragrance house brought back its cult-favorite Orris perfume for a limited run, people started to spiral—in a good way—and it sold out online in minutes. I consider myself a fragrance expert—I do write about perfume for a living, after all—but I hadn't paid much attention to orris until a recent trip to Paris. I sniffed my way through the city's niche perfume shops, and the only scents that completely blew my mind featured the same elusive note: Orris. Orris comes from the iris plant, particularly the root. "Iris is the plant—specifically iris pallida, iris germanica, or iris florentina—but the scent we associate with 'iris' in perfumery doesn't come from the flower," explains perfumer Gustavo Romero. "That striking bloom doesn't yield fragrant oil. The real magic comes from below the surface." The scented concentrate that ultimately gets blended into perfume is extracted from the iris plant's rhizomes, which are thick, root-like structures. "The rhizomes are dug up, peeled, dried, then aged and stored for three years—kind of like fine wine," explains Romero. "Only after this slow curing process do they develop irones—the aromatic molecules responsible for the creamy, powdery, suede-like orris scent that perfumers love," he explains. Iris plants can be found on every continent and are pretty easy to take care of. Heck, your mom or grandma maybe even grow irises in their gardens. Despite their prevalence, harvesting the roots for perfumery purposes is a lengthy, time-consuming process. "Orris demands a very labor-intensive extraction method that takes several years of drying and aging to develop its scent, which is why it's considered a luxury ingredient," explains Bella Varghese, fragrance development manager at dsm-firmenich. Not to mention, you need a ton (literally 2,000 pounds) of ground orris root to yield about 4.5 pounds of orris butter. Ben Krigler, a fifth-generation perfumer who runs Krigler, says that a tiny amount of orris butter can cost perfumers about $50,000. Orris' naturally powerful aroma also jacks up the price. "From an olfactive standpoint, the note depicts a luxurious effect because of the extreme richness of its profile," says Varghese. "Just a trace of it gives an amazingly intense impression." Sooooo, here's the interesting thing about orris. No one can pinpoint exactly what it smells like. Every perfumer will give you a different answer. Some say powdery and woody, while others will say sweet, yet slightly bitter. Orris is one of the most nuanced notes in perfumery—it completely transforms depending on what it's paired with, another aspect that makes it a highly-prized ingredient. "Orris is quiet, yet unforgettable," says Romero. "It's soft and textural, powdery without the fluff, and floral without being overly sweet. Imagine violet petals pressed into suede, dusty paper warmed by skin, or the inside of an old leather-bound book. It doesn't merely scent a perfume; it shapes its atmosphere." Sometimes orris is included in a fragrance not because of its unique aromatic profile, but rather because it acts as a booster to strengthen the overall fragrance. "Orris also works as a fixative—a material used to stabilize and prolong the scent of a perfume—which can help enhance all of the other notes," explains Varghese. "Interestingly, orris has a natural fixative property that slows down the evaporation of the top and middle notes, helping the fragrance last longer on skin and maintain its character over long periods of time." Truthfully, orris meshes well with virtually every note. "Orris is a natural harmonizer," says Romero. "It rounds out compositions and adds polish without overpowering the end result." When orris was first introduced in perfumery, Varghese says it was most often paired with "bold florals, like roses and a medley of musks." As fragrance houses have gotten more experimental, perfumers have pushed boundaries to meld orris with leather, vanilla, and raspberry—but that's just the tip of the iceberg. For example, The Maker Naked leverages orris' powdery facets by combining the note with violet, spicy pink pepper, and papyrus for a musky, bewitching skin scent. On the complete opposite side of the perfume spectrum, the addition of orris in Byredo Eyes Closed softens the spiciness of cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger so the scent lays like smooth velvet on skin. Due to the fact that orris is so damn expensive, the most prestige fragrance houses only have one or two perfumes that feature the note. Take Tom Ford—out of the 135 scents the brand has produced over the years, Fucking Fabulous is the only one to include orris. Valentino recently introduced orris to its perfume catalogue with the launch of its elevated Anatomy of Dreams line. Amouage, often touted as the most luxurious perfume house in the world, rarely includes orris in its scents. You can find it sprinkled into a few perfumes, including Lustre, from its newest collection. Krigler has one sole perfume in its permanent anthology that features orris—Palm Dream 219—but the prestige house can custom make an orris scent for you... it'll just cost tens of thousands of dollars. You don't have to go into debt to experience the magic of orris, though. (I promise!) Some perfume houses have begun incorporating the ambiguous note into their scents without reaching exorbitant prices. (I have no idea how, but I'm not complaining.) Phlur combines orris with lush fig and dewy jasmine in Father Figure, one of its bestselling creations. Snif continuously churns out budget-friendly perfumes that rival luxury houses, and they've thrown themselves into the orris ring with the mega-successful Me, a peachy, musky skin scent that achieves universal appeal thanks to—you guessed it—orris. The influencer-founded brand Ledda created one of the most stunning orris scents I've ever smelled. Orris 22 is nothing short of angelic, and it embodies a cozy rainy day spent wrapped in your lover's arms with orris, marshmallow, jasmine, and sandalwood. "If you want something that feels thoughtful, intimate, and subtly expensive—something that invites people to lean closer—orris is your note," says Romero. I'm a firm believer that no perfume collection is complete without a scent that contains orris. Since discovering—and falling in love with the ingredient—my fragrance library feels more elevated and distinguished. In the words of Krigler, "it's pure art." Mary Honkus is a beauty contributor for Cosmopolitan with over seven years of experience researching, writing, and editing beauty stories, including a deep dive on the strawberry perfume trend, finding the best wedding scents. She is an authority in all beauty categories, but has a sweet spot for fragrance with a collection of over 200 scents. After becoming completely captivated with orris perfumes, she began researching the rare note. For this story, she interviewed three fragrance experts to learn more about orris and what makes it so rare.
Forbes
21-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
10 Noteworthy Fragrances To Buy On National Fragrance Day 2025
Krigler boutique at the Ritz Carlton Hotel Whether you are a compulsive collector and an addict to additions to your fragrance wardrobe — switching up scents between seasons and life phases — or a signature single-scent devotee, you likely experience one (or many) that can transport you to a specific time and place. With notes and descriptions similar to the pretension of fine wine, luxury brands take fragrance very seriously. After all, they can define an entire phase, era, or lifetime for an individual. In honor of National Fragrance Day, here are 10 noteworthy notes to dive into and get the courage to blind-buy. Parfums de Marly Paris Delina Parfums de Marly Paris Delina For the floral fragrance lover, this iconic French brand brings together a beautiful bouquet of Damascena Rose, Rhubarb, Lychee, Bergamot, Vanilla, and Musk. Floral-forward enthusiasts will revel in the all-day lasting power of this award-winning fragrance. Fan of Delina? You will also love Valaya. Parfums de Marly Paris Delina $390 (75 ml) If there were a dictionary definition for famous luxury fragrance houses, Krigler would be right there next to the phrase. The history behind Krigler's signature and bespoke scents span decades of royalty, presidents, artists, and bon vivants. One could write a book about every bottle. President John F. Kennedy famously wore the brand's America One 31, as did Ernest Hemingway. For a lover of Italy and citrus, Villa Bordighera was created in 1920 by Albert Krigler as a commission for famous Italian playwright Giuseppe Adami. The goal? To transport Mr. Adami to his favorite vacation place: Bordighera. A fresh, bergamot-forward scent with notes of grapefruit, lemon, jasmine, and cashmere wood — this is a must-have for every fragrance wardrobe. The family-run perfumers are even said to create your own custom commission for just around $60,000. What better way to leave a lasting legacy? Krigler Villa Bordighera 20 $595 (50 ml) Krigler Villa Bordighera 20 The coveted Tokyo city-exclusive fragrance, fans of Gaiac 10 can only purchase this pristine, airy, scent in Japan or globally during Le Labo's city-exclusive month (typically August - September.) If you already own the bottle, you can refill it any time of the year at any Le Labo counter. But purchase it? You'll have to wait until September or book a trip to Tokyo. Based on gaiac wood, this scent is intoxicatingly musky but light. Strangers will trail you from restaurants and grocery stores to ask the coveted question, 'What are you wearing?' Le Labo Gaiac 10 Le Labo Gaiac Famed, perfectionist perfumer Dominque Ropion created this perfect perfume with 400 Turkish roses per 100ml bottle. Mr. Ropion, also known as 'the master of flowers', displays his mastery in Portrait of a Lady. The cult classic celebrated its 15th anniversary this year. Loved and worn by icons like Madonna and David Beckham, Portrait of a Lady is a must-have for the rose and amber lover in your life — especially if that lover is you. Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady, $295 (50ml) Portrait of a Lady As its name suggests, cult classic Molecule 01 features just one molecule ingredient: Iso E Super. Subtle and undetectable on your own skin, famous perfumer Geza Schoen discovered this ingredient alone creates somewhat of an animal attraction to the wearer. Known to expand the individual's natural pheromones, Molecule 01 can be layered or worn alone. This is a very confident blind-buy. Beware: You will be more attractive to everyone around you. Escentric Molecules, Molecule 01 $150 (100ml) Molecule 01 From Paris-based perfumer L'Officine Universelle Buly, their water-based unisex fragrances are light but intoxicating. Don't let the water fool you, these scents linger. Their Paris outpost is like a walk back in time to a high-level alchemist from the turn of the 19th century. Fragrance experts who know, know. Eau Triple Komi Forest is a divine, woody, rainy, light pine musk. Inspired by Russian novelist and poet Boris Pasternak's Lyubka, or 'lover', anyone will fall in love with this ornate packaging and product. Eau Triple Komi Forest In 2016, perfumer Christine Nagel created this beautifully fresh fragrance. A long-lingering perfume, this rhubarb-forward blend mixed with light citrus and musk makes this crisp creation the perfect spring or summer companion. Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate, Hermes ($205) Eau de rhubarbe ecarlate Designed for lovers of rare tastes, this oud-forward, musk heavy fragrance is must-buy for any oud lover. Master perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud added hints of raspberry to take a bit of the edge off the strong, intoxicating wet leather scent. Ombre Nomade, Louis Vuitton $410 (100 ml) Louis Vuitton Ombre Nomade No one can discuss luxury, high-level, fragrances without mentioning Bond No. 9. The iconic unisex perfumer is famous for 'Making Scents of New York'. One of their newest debuts, Gold Street is a gorgeous blend of French leather, suede, pink pepper, and Madagascar vanilla. Truly intoxicating and with lasting power that could outlive most — it really is worth its weight in gold. Those looking for a lighter more feminine scent, try Greenwich Village — a fragrance fan's summer staple. Gold Street, Bond No. 9 $490 (100 ml) Gold Street Bond No. 9 Byredo never disappoints, but when they unveiled a line of perfume extracts, the true fragrance fanatics came running. The star of the brand's 'Night Veils' collection of purely distilled perfume essences, Reine de Nuit rings true to its meaning, 'Queen of the Night' — and that's exactly how you feel when you spray this ultra-luxurious blackcurrant, saffron, incense, and rose-rooted fragrance. If you're going to blind-buy one luxury fragrance this year, let it be this one. Reine de Nuit, Byredo $400 (50 ml) Reine de Nuit, Byredo
