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LA Cocina de Gloria Molina sparks a cultural and culinary revolution
LA Cocina de Gloria Molina sparks a cultural and culinary revolution

Los Angeles Times

time13-02-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Los Angeles Times

LA Cocina de Gloria Molina sparks a cultural and culinary revolution

Sara P. Mijares grew up watching her mother make dishes like Cochinita Pibil, a slow-cooked pork dish with red achiote that originated in Yucatán. Unsure on how to make it, she stayed away from from the recipe until taking classes at LA Cocina de Gloria Molina. It was at that teaching kitchen in downtown L.A. where she met gourmet street food chefs Alex and Elvia Garcia of Evil Cooks — instructors and specialists in making recado negro, a mixture of chiles, onion, garlic, spices, tortillas and cacao that the class charred until it was black, then ground into a paste. 'I was always a little hesitant to try the black one,' said Mijares, referring to recado negro. 'I didn't quite understand it and that's one of the reasons I came today, to understand what went into it and unlock a little bit of the mystery.' So how was the recado negro mixed with pulled pork and served on a warm corn tortilla made fresh on LA Cocina's comal? 'It's quite special and delicious,' she said. 'I'm really glad I pushed out of my Yucatecan comfort zone to try it.' That's what LA Cocina is about. The 2,500-square-foot space, cultural center and recipe room is part of La Plaza de Cultura y Artes and named after the late political powerhouse instrumental in creating La Plaza, Gloria Molina. The community hub hosts local chefs, authors and community members for cooking classes, tastings and talks that celebrate the history and culture of Mexican and Mexican American cuisine. Local celebrity chefs like Danielle Duran Zecca of Amiga Amore and 'The Chori-man' Humberto Raygoza have taught classes. Events vary from a historical exploration of Afro-Latin cuisine presented by the Afro-Latino Education and Arts Collective and include cooking classes on making 'flower' tortillas with different varieties of corn and pressed flowers. 'One of the key components, alongside learning how to cook, and what makes a difference, is that we provide cultural notes in everything we do,' said Ximena Martin, La Plaza director of Programs and Culinary Arts. 'We make sure all our classes are presented by the community for the community.' Educating the public about Mexican and Mexican American authors, chefs and culinary history is only part of LA Cocina's mission in addition to preparing the next generation of chefs. The Culinary Youth Training Program is free to high school students and young adults ages 16 to 24. During a recent class, chef Wendy Centeno cut a red onion in half, then thinly sliced it for a cauliflower ceviche she was teaching a group to make. 'Have you been to a taquero and you get a really big piece of onion?' she asked. 'Who wants to eat that?' Students, who apply to be part of the bilingual program, learn everything from basic knife skills to poaching an egg to deboning a chicken. They come from Los Angeles and most of them know they want to cook but they don't know where to start, Centeno said. Jonathan Tirado, 19, likes to make sourdough bread and create dishes from whatever he has on hand at his Boyle Heights home. He thinks he might want to be a chef, which makes his mother happy that he's enrolled in the program that could lead to a career. 'My mom is probably going to disapprove of this, the cauliflower, but I'm going to have her try it anyway,' Tirado said. Centeno introduces culturally relevant dishes that may or may not be how students and their families are used to seeing them made. At the end of the course, students work with the Institute of Culinary Education. They write a resume and get invited to a networking event with local chefs, business owners and cooking schools to get career advice about the food industry and landing a job. The first time she saw one of her former students working at Porto's Bakery, Centeno said, she wanted to cry. 'Seeing them out there in the wild, we know we're doing something right,' the chef said. 'It's awesome.' LA Cocina, across the street from La Plaza in La Plaza Village, had its second anniversary in April by replacing the gift shop with Raíces Culinarias: A Recipe Reading Room. The space is filled with Mexican cookbooks donated by the family of the late journalist and author Barbara Hansen, the celebrated L.A. Times food writer who left her job at The Times in 2006 but continued writing articles for the paper through 2017. The cookbook collection inspired an exhibit curated by local food historian, podcaster and ArtBites founder Maite Gomez-Rejón about Mexican cookbook author Josefina Velázquez de León (1899-1968). De León was the first woman in Mexico to open a cooking school and offer correspondence courses to help women become part of the Mexican economy. 'Josefina was an amazing entrepreneur of her time,' Martin said. 'She started collecting recipes from local women and regional women and started her own publishing house.' The programs at LA Cocina offer the community much more than simply learning how to cook. For Centeno, it's the self-assuredness of the students that makes her especially proud. 'The most important thing we teach here is for them to have confidence,' she said. 'I want them to be able to walk into a kitchen and feel like, 'Yes, I know how to do whatever the chef wants me to do.''

11 places connecting Angelenos to their Latinidad
11 places connecting Angelenos to their Latinidad

Los Angeles Times

time10-02-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Los Angeles Times

11 places connecting Angelenos to their Latinidad

Feb. 10, 2025 8:48 AM PT Sometimes you just want to talk to people who understand you — at places that are inclusive and where you feel comfortable and accepted. Maybe you want to learn more about your culture and language, or want to see your community represented onstage in nuanced and uplifting ways. There are plenty of places in Los Angeles to experience Latinidad. For LGBTQ+ into Latin music, theater lovers seeking stories about Latinos or gay vaqueros looking for a place to let loose, those spaces may not be easy to find. From a community garden in East Los Angeles to a Mexican American museum and event space in downtown L.A. to a Brazilian capoeira and cultural center on the Westside, here are 11 ways to experience Latinidad in L.A. neighborhoods that have a little something for everyone. No matching places! Try changing or resetting your filters Showing Places Downtown L.A. Cooking school Check the calendar at L A Plaza de Cultura y Artes before visiting because there's always something going on at the museum, event space and cooking school. LA Plaza opened in 2011 thanks to the late L.A. County Supervisor Gloria Molina. Since then, it's hosted an ongoing exhibit about the history of Mexicans and Mexican Americans, an annual summer dance series, outdoor concerts, movie screenings and — with the opening of LA Cocina de Gloria Molina in 2022 — Latinx cooking classes in addition to food and wine Cocina also provides a free culinary program for young people looking to learn cooking skills in its chef's kitchen, earn a certificate and network with chefs and restaurant owners to hear about food industry careers and jobs. Route 501 N. Main St., Los Angeles, California 90012 Route Details East Los Angeles Gardens When Miguel Ramos, 37, bought his East Los Angeles home in 2017, they had a vision for a community space that would create connection to the land and their ancestors. They transformed the outdoor space into a community garden by planting corn, tomatoes and squash along with California native plants and herbs. Ramos invited artists, storytellers, activists and urban farmers to use the space to teach free Ramos operates Casita with partner Ellie Guzman and their toddler. They have a community garden where they grow their own fruits and vegetables to share with neighbors. They host seasonal events that include learning how to make your own community garden and how to start composting. To schedule a visit to Casita del Barrio or find out about upcoming events, visit Instagram . Website Details Avocado Heights Activist Group There's no better way to get in touch with your Latinidad than to fight for your way of life. Since its creation in 2020, Avocado Heights Vaquer@s has worked on grassroots campaigns in Avocado Heights, South El Monte and Pellissier Village. Through AHV and Union de Ranchos (co-founded with Nayellie Díaz), Samuel Brown-Vazquez and team have organized volunteers to protest the expansion of a battery recycling plant, stop the L.A. City Council from banning rodeos, and be a watchdog of development projects that displace families. 'Our community is primarily immigrant, working class,' Brown-Vazquez said. They're 'just as interested in rodeo as they are in having clean water, clean air.' The group meets the second Saturday of every month in Whittier. To get involved or for more information, email unionderanchos@ . Details Nonprofit Growing up in South L.A., Cynthia Gonzalez, 44, was one of a few Salvadoran kids, and her classmates weren't always kind. Over time, she grew proud of her heritage and realized that she needed to be the representation she had always wanted. She started Salvies Who Lunch in 2018 as a hashtag after getting together with a group of friends who bonded over food and culture. She's now produced more than 40 events, including three annual ones — Pupusafest (which is now Púchica Fest to include all Central American countries) celebrates food; Joteria is an LGBTQ+ festival at LA Plaza de Cultura y Artes; and Chévere is a visual arts festival. You can also find SWL at Angel City FC' s home games, and kindergarten through fifth-grade students at participating schools can join the Bichitos & Bichitas Club , an after-school program that teaches and celebrities Central American culture. Website Details Party Massiel Muñoz gets choked up when she talks about the people who come to the Puerto Rican and Dominican food and dance parties she throws with her cousin and business partner, chef Victor Ramos. Many of their guests came to L.A. by themselves to work in entertainment or other professions. The root of Capicúa , named after a term used in the Dominican Republic when a player wins a game of dominoes, is togetherness and food, she said.'We're fortunate enough to have our family here. For someone who doesn't, just knowing that they can come to these spaces and feel safe. A lot of people show up alone,' Muñoz said of their monthly event. 'We have this saying, people come alone, but you're going to leave with what we say 'primos,' cousins in Spanish.' Website Details Los Feliz Party 'Let's go, lesbians!' That's the rallying cry of D.J. Leslie Ortiz — D.J. Les — the founder of Toxica Fridays, a weekly Latin dance party for lesbians. 'Toxica' is a play on the stereotype of lesbians having toxic relationships, but it's all good vibes and everyone is welcome at Mi Corazón restaurant in Silver Lake.'It's definitely open to anyone' who wants to have a good time, Jeremy Swan, who owns Mi Corazón with his wife Vanessa Swan, Friday, the party at Mi Corazón restaurant begins with dinner at 8 p.m. At 9, Ortiz and her crew begin their Latin music set and at 10, tables are pushed out of the way and the dancing gets going. Ortiz hosts Toxica events, lesbian brunches, and private parties all over Southern California. To find out about her next event, check out her Instagram . Route Details Culver City Dance Studio What started as a single-student capoeira class in the late 1980s has grown into a multicultural community of adults, teenagers, parents and children. Joselito 'Amen' Santo is a mestre de capoeira — the highest level in the Brazilian dance-like martial art — a master drummer, and the director of Ballet Folclórico do Brasil, one of the Music Center's performing artist groups. He opened the Brasil Brasil Cultural Center to share his Afro-Brazilian culture, but it's evolved over the years. In addition to capoeira, adults and kids can take classes in parkour and jiu jitsu, or they can learn Portuguese, take part in vibrational healing or come to a social event. 'This space attracts people from all over the world,' he said. 'It's not just Brazilian or American. It's a melting pot.' Route Details Downtown L.A. Live Theater Group 2025 marks the 40th year that the Latino Theater Company has worked to tell stories from underrepresented communities. Since its founding by award-winning director José Luis Valenzuela, LTC has opened a five-theater complex in downtown L.A.'s Historic Core, started a Summer Youth Conservatory, continued to host a free vocational training program for L.A. teens and young adults, and created the National Latinx Theater Initiative that received a $9-million grant in 2023 to support Latino theaters across the country. And it's a great place to see compelling original works by Latinxs for Latinxs plus works by non-Latinos. 'The plays are political because our lives are political,' LTC marketing director Xavi Moreno said. Thanks to the LTC's Impact Inititiative, Los Angeles and area community college students can enroll to get six tickets plus $10 guest passes. Regular tickets run from $10 for previews up to $45. Route Details Vermont Square Museum Nestled in a house in South L.A., the Garifuna Museum of Los Angeles (GAMOLA) offers a place for people to revisit their language and culture or discover it for the first time. Descended from African people enslaved by the Spanish, Garifuna people can be found in Central American countries and right here in Southern leads tours by appointment and hosts poetry readings and educational programs while working to promote Garifuna Lewis is Garifuna and has been with the museum since its opening in 2011. She wants people to know that at GAMOLA, 'we're reaching out to the diaspora to let them know they have a place.' Route Details Hollywood Bar They have it all at Club Tempo : drag shows, male dancers, mariachis, live music, DJs playing everything from reggaeton to pop. But what's really special about the club is that it welcomes queer more than 30 years, the two-story bar in Hollywood has been a haven for gay Latinxs who identify with Latinx cowboy culture. Whether sporting Tejanas — cowboy hats — and boots and dancing to norteño music on one floor or chilling with friends at the bar, Club Tempo has something going on most nights. Check out Instagram to find out who's performing, when they have happy hour and what time to go to avoid cover charges. Route Details Chinatown Cafe No place in Los Angeles captures the city's resilient spirit better than Homeboy Industries. For more than 35 years, former gang members have found hope and a second chance thanks to Father Greg Boyle. Boyle, a 2024 Presidential Medal of Freedom honoree, started the gang intervention, rehab, and job-training program out of Dolores Mission Church where he was pastor. Thousands of men and women have gone through the Homeboy program, and many work for the organization's food and retail businesses. You'll find Homeboy chips, salsa and guacamole in grocery stores nationwide and freshly baked breads and pastries at Homeboy Farmers Markets . You can grab a coffee, pastry or sandwich at Homeboy Diner on the second story of City Hall or visit Homegirl Café in Chinatown for breakfast and lunch. Route Details

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