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Forbes
11-08-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Panama's Geisha Coffee Sets A Record Price. Its Source Is Worth A Trip
Elida Estate in Boquete, Panama Courtesy of Lamastus Family Estates If there was any doubt that specialty coffee is a luxury good—one whose aficionados prize origin, process, story and excellence—that was extinguished last week. At the international Best of Panama auction, a lot of Geisha coffee from Hacienda La Esmeralda in Boquete was sold for $30,204 per kilogram. That was more than three times the previous record, which was set at last year's auction by the nearby Elida Estate, part of Lamastus Family Estates. The auction, which is organized by the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama, was a success by any measure. Thirty of the auction's 50 lots sold for more than $1,000 per kilogram, and Esmeralda alone took home more than $1.2 million for about 60 kilograms of coffee. 'This result is a testament to the commitment, excellence and global reputation that Panamanian coffee has built,' said Ricardo Koyner of Kotowa, the president of SCAP, in a statement after the auction. It's also the latest leap of a remarkable ascent for a product that barely existed 40 years ago. Aficionados visit Hacienda La Esmeralda during La Cosecha Francesco Assenza With its small growing areas and high labor costs, Panama was never going to be a major player in producing coffee as a commodity. In 1989, during a time of crisis for global coffee markets and the early days of specialty coffee, a small group of Panamanian coffee producers created SCAP, launched the Best of Panama competition and auction (inspired by similar initiatives in Hawaii and Jamaica) and positioned their product as a luxury good. Things took off in 2004, when the Peterson family of Esmeralda introduced the Geisha variety—known first for its delicate, floral flavor profile, and now for its connoisseurship prestige—sparking the rise of Panama on the global stage. In 2007, the auction platform crashed when prices exceeded two digits. Since then, tbey've been climbing ever higher. The families that run the top estates can sometimes seem astounded that they're so far into the five-digit numbers. But they're also leaning into their role as purveyors of an ultra-premium product—and one they're producing in an extraordinarily beautiful place. Members of the Peterson family and coffee pros lead a tasting at Hacienda La Esmeralda Francesco Assenza And just as luxury tourism has taken root among the châteaux and vineyards of Europe's top wine regions, Boquete is emerging as a destination for sipping, tasting and savoring a different beverage—with an excellent coffee-focused visitor center, tasting rooms, historic and contemporary small hotels, and some very good dining. Boquete is a small mountain town in the northwestern province of Chiriquí, less than 40 miles from the border with Costa Rica. Adventure travelers already know it for the Barú Volcano National Park and Los Quetzales Trail, which offers a chance to see the elusive quetzal bird. Old-school luxury hotels like Hacienda Los Molinas cater to them with an outstanding location at the edge of the Cochea River Canyon and a full roster of hikes, tubing and other tours. The region's connoisseurship side shines in other projects, like the historic Hotel Panamonte, which has been a bastion of the good life since 1914. (Queen Elizabeth II was among the notable international guests.) It's still imbued with the personality of one of its original owners, Swedish journalist Vera Elliot, who fell in love with Boquete while on a trip with her husband, 'determined and eager to know the world.' Now it's overseen by her grandson, Charlie Collins, who had already gained international experience as a chef and hotelier when he got involved in 2002. Hotel Panamonte Courtesy of the hotel Collins is one of the most respected chefs in Panama. He's been recognized by international publications, prepared banquettes during the last five presidential administrations and overseen the culinary side of major events like the transfer of the Panama Canal to Panamanian control in 1999. But he runs the place with a gracious simplicity, particularly the restaurant. He named it T'ACH, a word from the indigenous Emberá-Wounaan language and also the title of his last two cookbooks, and uses it to showcase Panamanian cuisine and the hotel's specific, classic style, including Swedish pancakes on the menu at breakfast. An outstanding version of those pancakes appears on the dinner menu as well, topped with local mushrooms and truffles and eaten like tacos. Further up the hill, the new Finca Panda offers a more contemporary take on coffee tourism. Its five freestanding casitas are built among the bushes of its coffee farm, and they have ample decks with jacuzzis and fire pits. Unsurprisingly, the brewing bar in each room is impressive, with different roasts of Geisha and other varieties, and all the highly specific kettles, grinders and other paraphernalia found in serious cupping rooms. (But if it gets overwhelming, you can simply ask them to prepare some for you when they deliver the in-room breakfast.) Reception at Finca Panda Courtesy of the hotel Of course, serious coffee lovers will do their drinking at the source. While Hacienda La Esmeralda is generally not open to the public—with the notable exception of the annual La Cosecha, a multi-day event organized by Panamanian gastro-entrepreneur Jorge Chanis to bring together tourists, producers and aficionados for tastings of the Best of Panama competition winners, education and pop-up restaurant experiences with international guest chefs—a number of the area's other coffee families open their doors. Apart from La Cosecha, the Lamastus family gives tours of its Elida Estate, the previous record holder and a farm where they've been growing coffee for four generations, and the Peréz family uses its Aventura Coffee Estate as a base for guided tastings and tours, breathtaking hikes and a specialty coffee bar. Chanis also recommends the Altieri Specialty Coffee shop in town, Janson Family Farms in Volcán and the farm visits from Café Suárez. Finally, don't expect that $30,000 record to stand for very long. Lamastus and Esmeralda are both having private auctions in the next few weeks, meaning the prices for Geisha coffee could rocket even higher. But the region around them is unlikely to lose its low-key, nature-rooted charm. MORE FROM FORBES Forbes Lisbon's New Fine Dining: 6 Restaurants That Are Better Than Ever By Ann Abel Forbes This Wildly Creative Restaurant Turns Campfire Cooking Into Fine Dining By Ann Abel Forbes This Maverick British Chef Is Rewriting The Rules Of Fine Dining By Ann Abel


Chicago Tribune
24-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Chicago Tribune
Pallet to Palate's fun dining experience raises money for Food for Greater Elgin
Food for Greater Elgin's fundraiser, Pallet to Palate, is a foodie's dream, featuring such local cuisine as tamales from La Cosecha, mini medallion sliders from Elgin Public House and pizza from Danny's on Douglas. More importantly, however, it's also a vital fundraiser for the Elgin-based food pantry as it braces for potential cuts to federal programs. The event will be held from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Monday at the Schock Centre of Elgin's Heritage Ballroom, with vendors are providing examples of some of their signature items. 'Last year, I don't think everyone who came expected to leave completely full. There's a lot of food,' said Emily Tyler, director of development for Food for Greater Elgin. 'We tried to get more of a variety of food this year,' Tyler said. 'It might make it harder for attendees to stop (eating) because there are so many different types of food. … I think it will be a big hit.' Among the area restaurants and businesses participating this year are Duke's BBQ, Stewarts' Cheesecakes, Mama Lee's Popcorn, El Patio, Café Roma and Las Gorditas De Don Angel. Portillo's will be on hand to serve their signature chocolate cake. 'We haven't had them on board before so it's a fun addition,' Tyler said. La Cosecha also is a new vendor this year. 'Our staff loves their tamales. We are excited they're going to be there,' Tyler said. Valeria Cervantes and her family own La Cosecha. She wasn't very familiar with the food pantry before signing on, other than 'they help people who are in need,' she said. Community support has made La Cosecha successful over the last five years and 'we are happy to return the support,' she said. They'll be serving mini pork, chicken and poblano cheese tamales. The event is a huge one for Food for Greater Elgin, Tyler said. Their other big fundraiser is Chip in for Hunger golf outing, which this year will be held Monday, Sept. 8. 'This probably generates the most income for us,' Tyler said. So far they have sold 300 tickets to Pallet to Palate, exceeding their $70,000 goal by about $5,000, Tyler said. Individual tickets are $75 and sponsorships range from $500 to $10,000. 'We are so grateful. We have just generous sponsors and supporters,' Tyler said. 'At any time, it's important to meet fundraising goals, but especially in this time when so much is uncertain. I think all nonprofits are in the same boat right now, kind of waiting to see what's coming down the pipeline.' President Donald Trump has directed his administration to make cuts throughout the federal government, including money going to the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP). Funding has already been reduced for some programs that assist the Northern Illinois Food Bank, which supplies food to local pantries and allows them to buy groceries at discounted prices, Tyler said. 'The foods available to us through the Northern Illinois Food Bank have been reduced,' she said. 'Each month we get a list of foods that are not available. We've seen some really big cuts to essential items like milk and, of course, eggs.' As a result, food pantry officials must find other places to source those items, she said. 'A great thing that has happened for us is places like Meijer and Woodman's do fundraisers for us and give us gift cards for their stores,' Tyler said. 'We try really hard to budget very carefully and use our money efficiently and be good stewards of that.' The last time the federal government made cuts to SNAP, 'we saw a 150% increase in guests coming to shop with us,' she said. 'If we were to see a 150% increase in (requests for help) right now, we couldn't sustain it,' she said. 'We wouldn't be able to meet the need. Right now, we are feeding 150,000 people a year. A 150% increase on that is very significant.' For now, the agency is OK, Tyler said. 'We're doing our best. We're trying to make sure every person who comes to shop with us gets food,' Tyler said.


Axios
07-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Axios
Your D.C. Weekend: Women's History Month celebrations
It's the first weekend of Women's History Month, and many arts and entertainment venues, restaurants, and museums are celebrating — especially for International Women's Day on Saturday. The big picture: The Trump administration may have called for a federal end to such " special observances," but local Washington is still celebrating the contribution of women, past and present. State of play: Art shows, tastings and more events this weekend. 🎨 She:DC, the largest art show by women and nonbinary people in the DMV, is back in the Union Market District through March 31. Head to a Sip + Shop Fundraiser tonight at Shop Made in DC in Georgetown ($30 suggested registration). An opening party Friday ($15 tickets) at La Cosecha includes two galleries and a welcome drink. More She:DC events through the month include a Soka Tribes Dance Class (March 13) and multiple Wine + Watercolors sessions. 🖼️ The National Portrait Gallery hosts a lineup of events Saturday for all ages, inspired by the women on their walls, from Gertrude Stein-inspired meditation to zine-making and kids' story time (free, register). 🛍️ Atlas Brew Works in Ivy City hosts a maker's market Saturday focusing on women artisans and businesses (2-7pm, free), plus you can try their limited solar power beer. 🍽️ Les Dames d'Escoffier DC hosts their " Bringing it to the Table" symposium Saturday with discussions and workshops led by some of the biggest names in the DMV hospitality industry (tickets $130+). 🍷 Lulu's Winegarden hosts Crush: Women in Wine on Sunday over two afternoon sessions. The walk-around wine and taco party features unlimited tastings of 25+ women-produced wines, bottomless food and bottle discounts (tickets $66). What's next: A few women's organizations show a packed March calendar. ♀️ The National Museum of Women in the Arts organizes events all month (and year!) long, including tours, workshops, after-hours parties and free community days. 🥄 Regarding:Her, a national hospitality nonprofit, hosts food-focused celebrations and tastings around the DMV. More fun things to do this weekend: 🏒 The Capitals are hosting two free events as part of the 50th Anniversary Trophy Showcase, in conjunction with their "Rock the Red" 50th Anniversary Night on Friday vs. the Detroit Red Wings at Capital One Arena. 😋 Vienna Restaurant Week starts Friday, with nearly 40 eateries offering discounts, special menus and more. 🥃 The 11th Annual Whiskey Walk is back Saturday (1-9pm), starting at U Street bar Exiles and touring through downtown bars ($65 tickets). 🌮 Pop-up powerhouses Hijos Del Maiz and Snow Crane are slinging tacos and Japanese ice cream, respectively, at Dupont's Boogy and Peel on Sunday, 11am-4pm (free). Bonus pick for next weekend: 🍝 Join me for the DC Meatball Battle Saturday the 15th at Navy Yard's Osteria Morini. Tickets ($85) include meatballs from some of the city's best chefs, bottomless pasta, yummy drinks and more — and they're going fast.