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Times
5 days ago
- Times
I've found Kent's quirkiest new stay — it's a restoration triumph
Stepping inside the flint-knapped walls of Maison Dieu, the grade I listed former town hall that has stood in central Dover since the Middle Ages, feels like entering a neo-gothic fever dream. A strange summer mist had rolled in as we approached the White Cliffs, only adding to the drama as we stumbled through a maze of ceremonial rooms, resplendent with jewel-like wall stencillings, coffered ceilings, gilded wyvern dragons and a huge, Arthurian round table fit for the next series of The Traitors. This is the Mayor's Parlour, a self-contained suite designed by William Burges as part of a Victorian extension to the original medieval building. It's the latest holiday let to be opened by the Landmark Trust in the charity's 60th anniversary year and I'm the first journalist to stay, with a group of friends. Founded by Hubert de Burgh, the Earl of Kent, in 1203, Maison Dieu (House of God) started life as a monastic hostel offering pilgrims bed and board on their way to Thomas Becket's shrine at Canterbury Cathedral, but there are many different chapters to its history. After the Reformation it became a victualling yard, supplying ship's biscuits and beer to the Royal Navy, before it was bought by Dover Corporation to be turned into Dover's town hall. In his 19th-century overhaul Burges — the flamboyant Victorian architect-designer best known for Cardiff Castle's fantastical interiors — converted the ancient fabric into a grand assembly hall, courtroom and prison cells, and added the mayor's quarters in the style of privy chambers to a medieval court. The building fell into disrepair after the council relocated in the 1980s but a painstaking £10.5 million restoration project has now permanently opened the dazzling civic spaces to the public free of charge, and the parlour for private hire by up to six people. The remains of Burges's original decorative scheme, discovered under layers of modern paint, were recreated by hand. Every single panel of stained glass — tens of thousands of individual pieces — has been cleaned and conserved. The mayor's meeting chamber is now the dining room, where that magnificent mahogany round table comes complete with a jagged piece of shrapnel from a cross-Channel shell that exploded in the street below during the Second World War, when the surrounding area was known as Hellfire Corner. What is now the sitting room was once the place where witnesses waited to appear before the Sessions Court, while the adjoining WC contains the original Victorian urinal (a more charming artefact than it sounds) and a working replica of the wooden 'Thunderbox' toilet reserved for the use of the mayor and special guests. Upstairs on the second floor, the spacious en suite double and two slightly more spartan twin bedrooms, each with access to their own bathroom, were formerly the Minute Rooms, where clerks kept the town's records. The wooden beds are deceptively comfy and the bathrooms top spec (I was particularly taken by our freestanding mustard-coloured tub). Landmark's in-house joinery team built the bespoke kitchen in what was originally the mayor's robing chamber. Kitted out with Le Creuset pans, the charity's beautiful own-brand Old Chelsea china and an eight-seat table, this is probably the parlour's cosiest communal space. We find ourselves eschewing the much grander dining room to eat, drink wine and play cards here into the early hours. As with all Landmark properties the parlour is self-catering — a pint of milk and teabags are supplied for a preliminary brew, but you'll need to bring all other provisions. There's an M&S Foodhall less than ten minutes' walk away, with plenty of parking. • Revealed: 100 Best Places to Stay in the UK for 2025 There's no TV, radio or wi-fi — another Landmark trademark — and we struggle to find a reliable phone signal, which means we're blissfully cut off from the high street on our doorstep but also, at points, each other. Trying to get two cups of tea down a corridor, through two sets of heavy fire doors (however carefully crafted to replicate surviving originals) up a stone staircase and back to bed without being able to call for a hand is a challenge. Despite the ongoing revitalisation of the Kent coast, Dover is still a town most people pass through, rather than a destination. 'Go to Canterbury,' is one local's suggestion when we ask for recommendations, but happily we find a few gems. The Hoptimist has a great range of cask ale, local ciders and craft beers, while the White Horse, the town's oldest pub whose walls are scrawled with the times of swimmers who took the amphibious route to France, serves tasty mussels steamed with cider and bacon and skin-on fries (£18.50, On our walk back to the parlour we see the Art Club ( has a live band and a 2am licence, while the Vinoteq Jazz Bar opposite looked to have a wine list worth sampling ( The next morning we tour Maison Dieu's impressive state rooms, which now host an eclectic programme of community events from the local proms to British wrestling. • Read our full guide to Kent Dover Castle commands views of the town from every angle but at £30.90 a head ( we decide we don't have time to do it justice and head instead for the chalk cliffs via Dame Vera Lynn Way. A glorious, gently undulating two-hour hike around England's southeasternmost corner takes us past Fan Bay Deep Shelter, a wartime labyrinth of underground tunnels, and the South Foreland Lighthouse, before descending past some serious property porn to the shingle beach at St Margaret's Bay, once home to Ian Fleming (007 was the number of the Dover to London bus). After a restorative pint on the Coastguard's busy, sunny terrace it's another easy two hours — our phones repeatedly pinging 'welcomes' to France — to Deal pier, with a pitstop at the weatherboarded Zetland Arms on Kingsdown's beachfront en route. • This is the UK's most overlooked coast From Deal, it's a 20-minute train ride back to Dover Priory (the station is a seven-minute walk from the Mayor's Parlour and trains carry on to Folkestone in another ten minutes). But we get off a stop early at Martin Mill and head down country lanes to the Lantern Inn ( a quirky, cosy, wood-panelled free house with a sprawling, semi-covered garden out back. We feel we've earned the 30-day dry-aged ribeye steaks, eaten under the watchful eye of Boris the pub cat, perched on his stool at the bar, before calling a taxi back to the parlour (mains from £13.50). On our last morning, the hardiest member of our party braves an early morning sea swim as giant ferries chug by, followed by a steam at Rebels sauna. The rest of us head for coffee back at the Art Club, alongside a mix of Lycra-clad Gen Z-ers and walkers in performance-wear. Although it's evident the Mayor's Parlour was never intended for domestic use — we never quite shake off a sense of roaming around an empty institution, after hours — it would be perfect for atmospheric murder mystery weekends, or combining forays along the coast with exploring the majestic history of Maison Dieu. The restoration feat is astonishing and the finish immaculate, a five-star difference from the poor pilgrim's hostel this once was. Rachel Cocker was a guest of the Landmark Trust which has three nights' self-catering for six from £663 (
South Wales Argus
26-07-2025
- Entertainment
- South Wales Argus
Bluey, ABBA, and Romans: Things to do in Gwent this weekend
The weekend fun kicks off for families on Saturday, July 26, as M Cwmbran's store hosts a meet and greet event with the popular character, Bluey. (Image: Supplied) Running from 9am to 5.30pm, visitors can play chef with the Bluey mascot, and participate in various other family-friendly activities at the store. The fun continues at Caldicot Castle with the Mamma Mia! Outdoor Cinema ExtrABBAganza event. (Image: Supplied) Fans of the hit musical and the Swedish pop group ABBA can sing along to the films Mamma Mia! and Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again, which will be screened outdoors. Aside from the films, there will be an ABBA disco, street food, and a bar on site. Visitors are encouraged to dress up and bring along picnics, although alcohol must be purchased on site. The gates open at 5pm and the films start at 6.30pm. Over at Usk, Cardiff's board game enthusiasts, Rules of Play, will be bringing their pop-up shop and games night to the Lines Taproom. (Image: Supplied) A multitude of games will be available for purchase, and visitors can book tables to play games. The event is set to be a fun evening of learning and playing new games. The Landmark Trust is opening the historic Grade-I listed house, Llwyn Celyn, in the Black Mountains, for the July public open days from Friday, July 25, to Sunday, July 27. The site is free to visit, allowing visitors to explore the historic site and learn about its history and the work of the Landmark Trust. Canines are welcome at Llwyn Celyn and there are two events taking place on the Saturday: poetry and creative writing with Clare E Potter, and writing for wellbeing. To register your interest, email engagement@ The weekend also has a historical highlight, with the 'Meet the Romans' event at Caerwent Roman Town. (Image: Supplied) Running on both Saturday and Sunday, from 10.30am to 3.30pm, visitors can meet Roman centurion Tiberius Claudius Paulinus and his lady, who will be conducting guided tours of the Roman town at 11.30am and 2.30pm. There will be a Silurian wise woman on site, who will be talking about Celtic-Romano herbs at her plant stall. This free event also includes craft activities for children and refreshments.
Daily Mirror
21-07-2025
- Daily Mirror
'Mysterious' UK island with 'tiny' population, no cars and a dark past
This island has a population of around 28 people, making it one of the UK's least densely populated islands. Tucked away off the UK coast lies a little-known island that feels like a step back in time. With no cars, a handful of residents, and an atmosphere of untouched charm, this hidden gem has earned a spot on Wanderlust Magazine's must-visit list for summer. Ranking amongst the top 30 of Britain's secret places to visit, Laundy Island in Devon stands out for its captivating appeal. The travel experts wrote: "This island feels like a lump of the Hebrides mysteriously dumped in the south-west. "It is a wild, beautiful and almost treeless place, with a tiny resident population, no cars, a lot of sheep, cattle and ponies, and kilometres of footpaths. The chief attraction is the cliffside breeding puffins (best seen from April to July), but the chance to get away from it all ensures that few visitors only come here once." Why visit? If you're looking for peace and serenity, this is the place to visit. Lundy is the largest island in the Bristol Channel, located 12 miles off the coast of Devon, England. The secluded island boasts an average residential population of 28 people, including a warden, an island manager, a farmer, a shopkeeper, maintenance and housekeeping staff, and a kitchen team in the Marisco Tavern, reported Bideford Council. The Landmark Trust said: "Just off the coast of Devon, surrounded by the clear waters of the Atlantic, Lundy Island is a world apart. "A haven for divers, climbers and birdwatchers, Lundy is an island of contrasts with spectacular coastal scenery and sheltered valleys, rich in wildflowers and wildlife. And at the end of the day, swap tales of your adventures in the friendly Marisco Tavern." Lundy Island's dark history This seemingly quiet island is rich in history and has a turbulent past, once serving as a haven for rebels and pirates. In 1235, nobleman William de Marisco was linked to the murder of a royal messenger, and three years later, a failed assassination attempt on King Henry III was traced to his family. William sought refuge on Lundy Island, where he constructed a stronghold at the site now known as Bulls' Paradise. In 1242, he was seized along with 16 of his followers, transported to London, and executed for treason. By 1250, King Henry III reinforced the island's importance by building a castle there. Fast forward a few centuries to 1627, and Barbary pirates, also known as the Salé Rovers, took control of Lundy, utilising it as a base to plunder ships and coastal towns, kidnapping locals for ransom or enslavement. Five years later, under the reign of King Charles I, the Royal Navy regained control of the island. During the English Civil War, Lundy was the last Royalist stronghold, surrendering in 1647. How to visit There are only two modes of transport that can get you to Lundy Island. From April to October, visitors can reach the island via the Landmark Trust's own ship, the MS Oldenburg. The ship departs from both Bideford and Ilfracombe around three times a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, with an extra day added on Wednesday during July and August, reported Bideford council. According to Lundy Trust, return tickets for the 2025 period cost: £97 for adults £51 for children under 16 £23 for infants under four Day return tickets are cheaper: £54 for adults £28 for children under 16 Infants under four travel free of charge. A family ticket for two adults and two children is £125. However, the MS Oldenburg is out of service during the winter months. Between October and March, a scheduled helicopter service from Hartland Point provides access to the island. Tickets cost £174 for adults, £96 for children under 16, and £26 for infants under two. Flights operate on Mondays and Fridays between 12 noon and 2pm, departing from a field near the Beacon at the top of Hartland Point. Visitors have the option to stay overnight in one of the 23 different accommodations available. Prices start at £168 for a four-night stay in a small cottage or you can opt to stay in the Lundy Vestry, which was constructed by Reverend Hudson Heaven in 1896. A four-night stay in the St Helens church will set you back just over £300.
South Wales Argus
18-07-2025
- South Wales Argus
Llwyn Celyn farmhouse to open to public for rare weekend
Llwyn Celyn, a Grade I listed building in the Black Mountains, will welcome visitors from July 25 to 27 for a rare opportunity to explore its historic grounds. The Landmark Trust, a leading building restoration charity, has organised the event, which will feature creative writing and wellbeing activities. Celebrated poet Clare E Potter will lead a free creative house tour on Saturday, July 26, from 11am to 12pm, followed by a Writing for Wellbeing workshop from 1pm to 2pm. Tickets for the workshop are £6.13, including the booking fee, and can be pre-booked via Eventbrite at The farmhouse, typically reserved for holiday guests, is one of Monmouthshire's most atmospheric historic buildings. Set in the picturesque Llanthony Valley, it is only open to the public two weekends a year. Visitors can look forward to a free general entry, learning about the building's journey from ruin to restoration, and engaging in creative writing activities. Restored by The Landmark Trust, Llwyn Celyn was recently featured on Channel 4's Historic House Rescue series. The event is open to all, family-friendly, and refreshments will be available. Dogs are also welcome on site. Llwyn Celyn is approximately a 15-minute drive from Abergavenny, with accessible parking on site and general parking in a neighbouring field. Pre-booking is preferred via the Landmark Trust website. This rare event offers a chance to discover a slice of history in a stunning natural setting.
Press and Journal
15-05-2025
- General
- Press and Journal
Fairburn Tower: Artist's Highland castle transformation on TV tonight
He was one of the talented individuals whose labours helped bring a ruined Scottish castle in the Highlands back to life. And now, the story of how Paul Mowbray was involved in the restoration of the 16th century Fairburn Tower is the subject of a new TV documentary. The programme recounts how the large-scale project was overseen by the Landmark Trust, while a disparate group of artists, craftsmen and tradespeople sprinked their magic at the site, near Muir of Ord in Ross-shire. Paul was commissioned to recreate the structure's medieval ceiling and produced something beautiful at the heart of what had been a 500-year-old shell. He was often oblivious to anything happening in the wider world, such was his absorption in resurrecting a rare survivor from the Scottish Renaissance. But this beetle-browed lover of art, architecture, history, his homeland and a challenge rose to the task magnificently and his work will feature in the More4 documentary series Historic House Rescue at Paul told me: 'I was asked if I would be interested in creating a traditional Scottish board and beam painting in a late 16th century style. 'I went to visit the tower and was very impressed with the standard of the restoration considering the state it was in before. The draft for the painted ceiling was impressive and very well researched by two of the Landmark Trust's historians. 'This was the backbone of the task and was based on the look and manner of some content from Delgatie Castle, a ceiling I always admired in the Aberdeenshire style. 'I worked with the historian and produced a 3D visual of how it would look and, together, we established relevant historical content and where it should be placed within the area of the ceiling.' Such significant renovations weren't implemented easily. Forget about a minor tinkering of the amenities; this was basically starting from scratch on a giant canvas. But thankfully, Paul's passion for his subject and the knowledge gleaned from travelling across Scotland from Fife to Glasgow and Aberdeenshire to Inverness allowed him to transcend any difficulties he encountered. He said: 'Physically, the work was demanding and it entailed painting above your head daily for two months which was pretty hard going. 'I worked long hours and stayed in local guest houses to maximise progress. 'I also used a local sports therapy masseuse to keep me in shape, and had a yoga mat on site to minimise fatigue. 'From a technical perspective, the work had to be sympathetically carried out and the style of the painting was faithfully observed. 'It was beneficial that I have studied, researched and photographed many of Scotland's finest painted ceilings and built up knowledge and insight over several decades. 'This helped build a bond with a project such as Fairburn Tower and ensured that it went beyond being a commission and became a responsibility; it's not only something you do for the present, but also for generations to come in the future.' Paul is one of those people who don't look for problems but solutions; an individual who admits he thrived as part of the collaborative effort at Fairburn. And much of his drive and determination sprung from the encouragement he was given by his family in his formative years. He said: 'My parents were very encouraging in broadening my interests. Travel, along with historic buildings and museums and studying nature, were central to most days out as a child, and many of these interests and memories inspire my art to this day. 'My parents had limited means, but they bought a steady stream of arts and crafts materials, books and encyclopedias for me and I am so grateful for that.' Paul's participation was just one piece of a larger jigsaw puzzle when it came to an initiative on the scale of Fairburn Tower. He paid tribute to skilled labourer Tristan Maryon, who provided him with whatever support he required and, as Paul said: 'He is one of these folk you don't meet very often – positive, full of energy in his job. It must be something in the water up there.' Yet, in his words and his unfettered enthusiasm for his labours, there's the zeal and zest of the genuine aesthete, allied to a pride in what he and his colleagues achieved. So what were the abiding memories of immersing himself in the Tower? Once again, his words testified to the fact this project was about a lot more than his fee. He said: 'It's hard to express the sense of leaving your artwork in a noble historic property and painting in a style of a long forgotten age, but using snippets of content that tell a little about Fairburn's story today. 'Then, there were the barn owls that moved in during site work and the jackdaws that broke in and built impressive nests while the workers were on their weekend break. 'Ultimately, the story has been told using the design and emblem books of the 16th century, so the authenticity permeates throughout. 'We can appreciate all this now, but it will be interesting to know how future generations will observe the art work.' There's no such thing as a 'normal' schedule. One week, he will be completing Gothic carvings for a Georgian manor. The next, he will be involved in producing his own contemporary artwork which has been displayed in the Royal Scottish Academy. He savours the north of Scotland and isn't done with this part of the world. In fact, there could be another alluring assignment this year at Boleskine House; the Loch Ness home of occultist Aleister Crowley, and Led Zeppelin guitarist Jimmy Page. But we'll leave that particular stairway to heaven for another day. If you enjoyed this story, you may also like: Big interview: Exclusive: Meet the man bringing the past to life at Fairburn Tower in the Highlands
