4 days ago
Why Seville is the greatest city in Europe
Like a smug, doting mother whose highly gifted child has just won a major prize – to her delight but not necessarily her surprise – I was thrilled to hear that Seville has been voted the Greatest City in Europe by Telegraph readers. Having lived here for 22 years, it feels fully justified.
As anyone who has visited the city will already know, Seville is a holiday destination that you should explore in fragrant spring, or wander during the warmth of autumn, but avoid throughout the stiflingly hot summer months. It is a magical microcosm of everything you could want in a weekend destination. Airport nearby? Check. Characterful hotels aplenty? Check. History at every turn? Check. Tasty, affordable food? Check. Easily walkable? Check. Blue skies whatever the month? Check. What's not to love?
There are tiny, medieval alleyways, narrow enough to touch both sides with outstretched arms; unexpected doorways leading to cool, arcaded patios filled with ferns; and jaw-dropping contemporary structures such as Las Setas, the world's largest wooden structure that winds 30 metres up. There are also endless bars for an unhurried caña de Cruzcampo bien fria (small glass of ice-cold beer), and when the last inch gets warm, do like the locals do and just order another.
Yes, as in many well-visited cities, there are concerns about the rise of holiday lets and their impact on residents. And yes, they are justified, but laws have been passed to address the issue. Yet you can expect that most Sevillanos will be delighted to meet you, help you, and charm you with their warmth. They're infinitely proud of their beautiful city, and they love that you appreciate it too. They're passionate about everything: football teams (Seville versus Betis); Semana Santa (Holy Week); the seven-day hedonistic glory of drinking, eating and dancing that is the Feria de Abril; and debating which bar serves the coldest beer.
One of the main reasons people choose Spain for their holiday is the food. Seville is known as the capital of tapas, and small dishes reign supreme. It doesn't do any harm that Andalucia grows superb fruit and veg: when British visitors taste a tomato salad – juicy, deep red slices of heaven dressed simply with EVOO, garlic and salt – they weep. Add a few slices of tangy Payoyo cheese, some slivers of nutty Iberian ham, tartare of tender (sustainably caught) bluefin tuna and cumin-scented spinach with chickpeas, a traditional dish originating from Sephardic Jews, and you're in heaven.
And I haven't even touched on the glories of the city's dizzying romp through architectural styles. Stone pillars in a church courtyard? Probably Roman or Visigothic. A tower that looks reminiscent of a Moroccan mosque? That's because it used to be a minaret; now it's a belltower with a Renaissance crown. Spanish and Arabic script on the same building? Built by Islamic stonemasons for a Christian king, known as Mudéjar. A glazed tile with geometric design? Made in Triana, with Arabic origins.
I feel privileged to live here, and I like nothing more than to convey the city's enduring allure to visitors. As the saying goes, 'Quien no ha visto Sevilla no ha visto maravilla' – 'If you haven't seen Seville, you haven't seen a wonder'.
