a day ago
Hotel review: Umana, Bali
Arriving at Umana Bali, you step out of the car to be greeted by the booming sound of a gong. From that moment, it's clear that this stay will be transcendent. Once the echoes of the gong dies down, each guest has a frangipani flower tucked behind their ear and is given a bracelet of three interwoven threads that represent the Balinese Hindu beliefs (white for the afterlife, red for creativity and black for reservation, in case you were wondering).
The impressive lobby combines chic and glossy contemporary interiors with design touches that nod to Bali's heritage – carved stone dragons, a handblown glass chandelier inspired by the movements of the traditional Legong fan dance and a wooden lattice above echoing looms used by indigenous Balinese Aga people to weave.
The private infinity pool and hot tub that comes with each Villa at Umana Bali
This oasis is situated on the Bukit Peninsula, and is worlds away from the stereotypical hubbub of places like Ubud or the Gili Islands that might come to mind when Bali is mentioned. It feels calm, private and exclusive, but with the spirituality of the local community and traditions at its heart. You couldn't ask for a more flawless blend of high-end luxury, blissed out tropical break and local culture than is offered at here.
Rooms and facilities
Umana's name comes from the Balinese word uma, or rice paddies, and the layout of the property's 72 villas perched on cliffs overlooking Melasti Beach echoes this. The location of the resort means the views from villas are spectacular, with unreal sunsets making for fantastic Instagram fodder. While they are all relatively close together, they each offer total privacy, like you're alone in your own little jungle garden.
Step out of bed and slip straight into your pool
In terms of sizes they range from one bedroom to three bedroom – with the one bedrooms starting at a whopping 3,100 sq ft. There is a dining space, a living area, an absolutely massive master bathroom filled with gorgeous Javanese marble and a bathtub so deep you float in it, a guest bathroom and a walk-in wardrobe/dressing area. But the real jewel in the crown is the bedroom; sliding doors open to your own private 10 metre infinity pool overlooking the sea or jungle, accessorised with your own private hot tub at the side.
The giant bathtub found in each villa
Stepping out of bed in the morning, opening the curtains before sliding straight into the pool is a rarity that feels like nothing else. The vibe is indoor-outdoor, with a patio, gazebo, huge daybed, lounge chairs and outdoor dining area. A word of warning – don't leave your doors open. The monkeys in the area know there's food in your villa, and they will take it if you don't keep the doors shut when you're out!
Food and drink
The food here is just another way in which Umana really shines the light on their heritage. While there are of course gorgeous options for Western tastes, I really encourage you to dip your toes in the exquisite South-East Asian food. When it's local dishes cooked in the area of their origin it's always going to be more delicious (and less boring) than toast and eggs.
Rijsttafel featuring a variety of dishes including chicken sate and an addictive green bean salad
There are a few options for dining. Pad Pool Bar is relaxed and ideal for a more chilled lunch (with a lovely view), Mer Lounge offers coffee, lemongrass brews, Balinese wine-tasting (which are all delicious) and snacks, and Commune is the all-day dining option.
For breakfast there is both a buffet and a la carte options, with everything you could possibly want at top notch standards. For lunch and dinner highlights include local favourites like nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice), an incredible iteration of gado gado (a salad with crunchy veg, crispy fried tempeh and boiled eggs in a peanut sauce) and sate lilit (minced chicken infused with kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, chilli, ginger, galangal and turmeric and cooked over hot coals). A must-try is the rijsttafel – originating from the Dutch during a colonial period in Indonesia, it's a feast of lots of small flavoursome dishes served with rice, and truly not to be missed.
Sunset at Oliverra
Oliverra, sat atop the corner of the resort and offering a cinematic view of Melasti beach is a showstopper. Mediterranean-inspired with utterly delectable dishes, this feels more like an 'occasion' restaurant.
I highly recommend taking advantage of the in-room dining back at your villa though. A real highlight was the floating breakfast; a giant tray containing your order, along with accoutrements like fruit, conserves and pastries arrives on the surface of your pool like magic. It looks incredible, and it's lovely to eat while sat in the water – though be warned it is not the most practical breakfast option!
The floating breakfast is particularly Instagram-friendly
Eighty per-cent of the produce is sourced from local farms, and they even have a hydroponic herb and vegetable garden for the freshest food.
Hotel Highlights
The service is outstanding. Each villa is assigned a personal concierge who is merely a Whatsapp message away, from things as simple as requests for extra water to 'help a monkey stole my phone charger' (which actually happened to another guest while I was there).
You will also be thoroughly spoiled. Villas have sandals woven from pandan fibres and chic knitted bags for use during your stay, which came in incredibly handy. Incense is provided – I highly recommend lighting yours while having a bath or taking outside to the hot tub, paired with a glass of wine. A thermos of tea, snacks and gifts are left out for you at turndown, so when returning after dinner ready to flop you have one last treat.
Treatment rooms at the Lohma Spa
The Lohma Spa is a peaceful sanctum for a proper recharge, as you'd expect, with an outdoor pool and hot and cold plunge pools. There's a yoga pavilion (personally I'd rather sunbathe), sauna, steam room as well as the obvious treatment rooms. There's also a gym, if you're one of those people.
Importantly, there's also a kid's club from 9am to 5pm where four to 12 year-olds can have their own fun – while you get to have your own. There's also a babysitting service available if you'd like to have a peaceful dinner at a more grown-up time.
Sunset over the rice paddy-inspired resort
What to do nearby
Cooking classes take place daily, with recipes to take home and finishing with a superb lunch (if I do say so myself). Balinese coffee tastings alongside tastings of the Balinese spirit Arak are available too, and the wine tasting in the cellar is a highly enjoyable hour.
If you manage to drag yourself away from your beautiful villa there are some brilliant ways to dive into local traditions too. You can visit local holy temples for blessings, have a soul cleansing ritual at a temple in a bat cave (which was stunning) or watch a traditional Kecak dance at the outdoor amphitheatre next to Melasti beach.
There are chances to do boat trips for snorkelling (we saw dolphins), or village walks where a local takes you round the market, shows you the beautiful architecture and feeds you traditional treats. None of these activities feel in any way touristy. Which despite being one, you don't always want to feel.
The verdict
There's no question this is unrivalled luxury – but most importantly Umana feels authentic, genuine and true to its location at heart.
Prices start from £429 per night.
