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Tatler Asia
06-07-2025
- Business
- Tatler Asia
From royal silk dresses to digital fashion: the evolution of fashion through the ages
Dubbed 'The Father of French Haute Couture,' Charles Frederick Worth was a household name among 19th-century elites. Originally from England, he relocated to France in 1845, beginning modestly with a shop selling accessories. His ascent coincided with the rise of the Second French Empire in 1852, a period that brought renewed prosperity and intellectual vibrancy to Paris. By 1858, Worth had founded an exclusive women's tailoring , ouse. Thanks to Austrian Princess Pauline von Metternich, he gained the favour of Empress Eugénie, consort to Napoleon III. From that moment on, his name became synonymous with luxury at the highest echelons of society. Read more: What are luxury brands doing in the face of trade tariffs? Above Princess Metternich, wife of the Austrian ambassador, wore a dress by the couturier Worth Worth introduced the pleated silhouette and brought the billowing gown into fashion, a look that defined women's wear through the 1870s and 1880s. His custom creations were so masterfully made they would later become coveted by collectors and museums, a legacy that endures into the 21st century. Industrial Revolution By the close of the 19th century, fashion began to reach beyond the upper class. While haute couture remained the domain of the elite, more affordable options emerged for the growing middle class. Department stores such as Harrods, Galeries Lafayette, Lord & Taylor and Woodward & Lothrop redefined the shopping experience, transforming it into a physical and social activity. 'Department stores were traditionally women's shopping destinations,' notes Professor Elaine Abelson, author of When Ladies Go A-Thieving: Middle-Class Shoplifters in the Victorian Department Store (1989). 'Most of the items sold there were clothes, hats, and haberdashery. Men's clothing was also sold, but it was not the main item. The men's section usually had a separate entrance from the women's section.' Above Hand-tailored design by Charles Frederick Worth circa 1870 Above An elaborate floral embroidered dress by Charles Frederick Worth, circa 1883 At this turning point, fashion was no longer the preserve of the elite. Shoppers with a shared interest in style could now try on the latest trends in bustling department stores. The demand for ever-changing fashion quickly surpassed the capabilities of manual tailoring, which required time, labour, and significant cost. Designers were under pressure to keep pace. In response, the sewing machine emerged, revolutionising production by shortening stitching time and creating neater, more consistent garments. Wearing designer clothes doesn't always guarantee a beautiful look, but the right outfit, one that reflects your personality, speaks volumes about who you are - Tatler Vietnam - It is unclear who actually invented the first sewing machine. But the earliest design, dated 1790, is credited to Thomas Saint. His patented machine featured a hand crank but existed only in drawings. In 1830, Barthélemy Thimonnier introduced a functioning machine that enabled him to open the world's first dressmaking workshop, producing uniforms for the French army. In 1846, Elias Howe developed what would become the first sewing machine in the United States, significantly improving the design by using a lock stitch, which offered greater durability than the chain stitch seen in earlier models. Above In 1830, Barthélemy Thimonnier invented the sewing machine, which helped him open the world's first clothing factory Mirror of the times Designer Gabrielle Chanel once offered a thought that still lingers: 'The most beautiful colour in the world is the colour that suits you.' Her words can be interpreted in more than one way. It may refer to hues that flatter one's skin tone or suit a particular occasion. But it also speaks to something deeper: the colour of one's personality. Wearing designer fashion may not ensure beauty, but when clothing resonates with one's character, it tells the world who you are. Challenging convention in the pursuit of individuality became the prevailing spirit of fashion in the early 20th century. The growing influence of feminism left its mark on design. Dresses grew less voluminous, corsets were discarded, and sleeves were shortened or removed altogether. One landmark example is the little black dress, introduced by Chanel in 1926—a minimalist, knee-length silhouette that redefined the meaning of black, imbuing it with power and quiet confidence. Above Gabrielle Chanel broke the norm to create transformations in the fashion field in the early 20th century The post-war period ushered in yet another shift in how fashion was imagined. In the late 1940s, material shortages inspired a move towards romanticism, celebrating femininity through delicate, structured detailing. In 1947, Christian Dior, later dubbed the 'designer of dreams,' unveiled his New Look collection, a dramatic departure from the restrained silhouettes of wartime. The Bar jacket, with its sculpted waist and billowing pleated skirt, captured the longing for prosperity and emotional restoration after years of austerity. Above The waist-cinching silhouette is the main highlight of Christian Dior's 'New Look' collection Measured in human terms, fashion in the 1960s and '70s represented adolescence, bold, rebellious, and intent on rewriting the rules. The term 'Youthquake' perfectly captures the cultural energy of the time, where music, art and fashion became tools of expression and liberation. Many designers rejected convention altogether. The movement known as anti-fashion, though a rebellion against aesthetic norms, was still deeply rooted in fashion. By tossing aside traditional proportions and structure, designers made room for radical self-expression. Trends may fade, but style remains timeless - Yves Saint Laurent - In this spirit of defiance, designers of the era embraced fashion as a language of freedom. Mary Quant emerged as a leading figure of the Mod aesthetic. While she never claimed to have invented the miniskirt, she certainly cemented its status as an emblem of youthful irreverence. At the height of the trend, she famously described the ideal hemline as 'about four inches from the buttocks.' In a 1995 interview, she reflected with delight: 'Look at me! They say I have a wonderful life.' Above Mary Quant brought to the fashion world an item that expressed youthful and rebellious personality throughout the 60s Above Mary Quant brought to the fashion world an item that expressed youthful and rebellious personality throughout the 60s The intersection of technology and creative intelligence The influence of technology has deeply transformed how designers engage with their craft. Today, ideas can be brought to life in virtual environments, with artificial intelligence and 3D printing techniques giving rise to trompe l'oeil effects of astonishing realism. A number of designers have distinguished themselves by merging technical innovation with traditional artistry. One such figure is Dutch designer Iris van Herpen, who has pioneered the use of 3D printing in haute couture, a realm that celebrates painstaking craftsmanship and time-honoured skills. In 2010, she unveiled the 'Crystallisation' dress, among the first couture garments to incorporate 3D elements. In collaboration with TU Delft University of Technology, she developed a technique known as Foliage, enabling intricate designs to be printed directly onto delicate, translucent fabrics. Above Iris van Herpen, the Dutch designer who pioneered the integration of 3D printing into haute couture There are now fashion houses operating entirely in the digital realm. One such example is The Fabricant, the world's first digital-only label, which made headlines in 2019 by auctioning a fully virtual dress for US$9,500 just a year after its founding. Created in collaboration with artist Johanna Jaskowska, the surreal garment marked a bold entry into an emerging couture era shaped by technology and imagination. The increasing application of tech in high fashion also highlights another pressing concern: the environment. According to the United Nations Environment Programme, the fashion industry ranks as the second-largest consumer of water and contributes roughly 10 per cent of global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. In response, designers and brands alike are seeking innovative solutions to lighten fashion's environmental footprint. Above Stella McCartney, the high-end fashion designer who uses cutting-edge technology in her fashion, has spent her career proving that ethical choices don't have to come at the expense of luxury When it comes to embracing advanced technology with a conscience, Stella McCartney's name is impossible to overlook. The British designer has long championed sustainability, not as a fleeting trend but as a lasting mission. Her approach blends ethical innovation with elevated design, setting an example for the wider fashion industry. As the creator of the first vegan It Bag—the Falabella, a slouchy faux-leather tote edged in signature silver chain—McCartney has worked to prove that conscious fashion needn't sacrifice style or luxury. But her efforts are far from symbolic. The Stella McCartney brand has outlined concrete goals, including achieving net-zero emissions by 2040. To reach this, it aims to cut greenhouse gas emissions by 75 per cent by 2030, a bold undertaking rooted in a long-term vision for both the planet and the generations to come. Above Technology plays an important role in fashion design practice Fashion design speaks in a language that transcends words. It holds within it the stories of its creators, while simultaneously capturing the aesthetic mood and cultural outlook of its time. To engage with fashion is not merely to admire silhouettes and textures; it is to understand the spirit of an era through the interplay of cut, shape and material. NOW READ Where fabric meets fantasy: The savoir-faire behind Chanel's 2024/25 Métiers d'art collection Indie-sleaze revival: When 'laziness' dominates the fashion playground Protein chic: When a toned body becomes the new aesthetic icon
Yahoo
13-05-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Puttshack Tees up Food and Fun for Chicago's North Shore With New Location Opening on June 18
Upscale tech-driven mini golf experience to open at newly transformed Westfield Old Orchard shopping center in Skokie CHICAGO, May 13, 2025--(BUSINESS WIRE)--Puttshack, the world's first and only upscale, tech-infused mini golf experience, will be elevating gameplay to new heights by opening its 21st venue and second in Illinois, complete with globally inspired food & beverage, in Skokie, Ill. on June 18. The new 30,000 square foot social entertainment venue marks the final addition to the former Lord & Taylor space as part of Westfield Old Orchard's ongoing redevelopment, transforming the North Shore's premier shopping center into a multifaceted lifestyle destination. The newest Puttshack will feature four highly competitive, tech-driven nine-hole mini golf courses powered by the brand's leading proprietary Trackaball™ technology, which elevates the game play by keeping track of your score. The space has two full-service bars and a private event space. The Skokie venue will also be the second location to feature one of Puttshack's innovations on indoor mini golf, Challenge Hole suites, a personal and private playing experience designed with groups in mind. The Challenge Hole is a dedicated mini golf suite, where guests can enjoy 90-minute sessions of competition with a variety of unique mini golf games in a semi-private interactive space while enjoying full-service dining. Skokie will have five of these suites available for booking. "We're incredibly excited to continue our growth in the Chicagoland area with the opening of Puttshack Skokie," said Susan Walmesley, COO/CMO of Puttshack. "Chicago isn't just where our headquarters are based—it's a city we're deeply connected to. We love the energy, the people, and the innovation that defines this region. Expanding in our home market is always special, and we can't wait to bring our signature tech-infused experience to Skokie." "Puttshack is an exciting and welcome addition to the Westfield Old Orchard family," said Maegen Akers, General Manager of Westfield Old Orchard. "We're thrilled to introduce a dynamic, interactive attraction that elevates the overall guest experience. As the center continues to evolve into a vibrant hub for living, working and playing, Puttshack adds a whole new level of energy and engagement for the community and visitors to enjoy." Combined with the one-of-a-kind gameplay is a thoughtfully curated culinary experience that is a result of meticulous hands-on research by Puttshack's experienced food and beverage team. The globally inspired menu also pays tribute to a beloved Chicago flavor with its Chicago Tailpipes, fried spring rolls filled with Italian beef and, giardiniera served with horseradish and au jus for dipping. Featured local beverages include beers from Sketchbook Brewing, Goose Island Beer Co., and Alarmist Brewing. Puttshack takes great pride in supporting the local communities it calls home and will be proudly supporting the Niles Township Food Pantry by donating $1 from every Tailpipe sold at the Skokie location. Puttshack will be opening to the public at 4 pm on Wednesday, June 18th and will be open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 12 a.m., and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sign up for Puttshack Perks to be the first to know when reservations are live, and to receive a free game of mini golf at Guests can begin to book game and dining reservations starting June 4 for opening day on June 18. Inquiries for private events such as corporate outings and parties are currently being accepted for dates after June 23, 2025 at About PuttshackPuttshack is a leading concept in the emerging and growing market of competitive socializing. Combining a tech-infused mini golf game with an exceptional food and beverage offering, Puttshack has multi-generation appeal. Our proprietary Trackaball™ technology allows guests to play a point-scoring game surrounded by an upscale and exciting environment. Puttshack is the perfect place for dates, family bonding, birthdays, nights out with friends, or corporate outings. Since opening its first location in 2018, Puttshack now has several locations across London and the U.S. The company has its global headquarters in Chicago, Illinois, with a UK headquarters in London. For more information, please visit About Westfield Old OrchardWestfield Old Orchard is Chicagoland's premier shopping center and lifestyle destination. With an incredible and growing offering of more than 150 retailers, dining options and event spaces including Louis Vuitton, Bloomie's, Bar Siena and Pottery Barn, the center is transforming the in-person shopping experience for Chicago's North Shore and beyond. In tandem with its ever-evolving roster of partners and ongoing community engagement, Westfield Old Orchard is undergoing a transformative redevelopment with plans to create a vibrant, multifaceted destination soon to be home to modern residences, gourmet markets, green spaces and outdoor lounges. Learn more about Westfield Old Orchard, its retailers, upcoming events and initiatives at or visit the center at 4905 Old Orchard Center at the intersection of Skokie Blvd and Old Orchard Road in Skokie, Ill. View source version on Contacts Marisa BreeseICR Inc. for PuttshackPuttshackPR@


New York Post
04-05-2025
- Business
- New York Post
Amazon closes purchase of 522 Fifth Ave.
A few weeks ago, we described Amazon as an 'ever-expanding behemoth' on the Manhattan scene, following its 330,000 square-foot lease signing at 10 Bryant Park. The deal followed its $1 billion purchase of the former Lord & Taylor building and large leases at three other buildings. But Jeff Bezos wasn't done. On Friday, Amazon closed on the purchase of 522 Fifth Ave. from Aby Rosen's RFR Realty, as reported by the Real Deal. Amazon's purchase of 522 Fifth Ave, above, closed on Friday. Google Maps The price wasn't disclosed, but the acquisition added 600,000 more square feet to Amazon's presence here. This, from a company many said would abandon New York after its bid for a regional headquarters campus in Queens was scuttled by elected officials in 2016. As CBRE dealmaker Stephen B. Siegel told us a few weeks ago, 'Never give up on New York City or the availability of capital here.'


Time Out
30-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
A first look at the new food hall opening inside the former Lord & Taylor building
When Lord & Taylor closed up shop at its historic midtown Manhattan building at 424 Fifth Avenue in 2018, the masses mourned. Although the fashion giant is not, unfortunately, making a comeback, the landmark building will soon become the site of a massive new food fall and entertainment destination celebrating all things New York and honoring the legacy of Lord & Taylor itself. Shaver Hall, as the new 35,000-square-destination is called, is scheduled to debut by the end of the year, according to Sean Dillon, part of the strategic development team at Shaver Hall. "This project has been in the works for over three years," said Randy DeWitt, co-founder of The Food Hall Co., in an official statement. "We see Shaver Hall as a chance to reimagine the food hall experience in midtown—creating a space built for connection, community and culinary discovery, with the freedom to spotlight emerging chefs and the latest food trends." To achieve that goal, the team will be operating 11 curated food stalls, a central bar, two anchor restaurants (a steakhouse and a wine and cheese bar), a 12-seat omakase eatery and a modern bodega. "It will be a New York style bodega selling traditional items like grab-and-go snacks," Dillon tells Time Out New York. "There will also be a nice coffee program." Among the confirmed stalls are Brooklyn's F&F Pizzeria, Korean inspired chicken purveyor Chick Chick, Taqueria Al Pastor, Frankies 457 Spuntino, ZaZu, Token Ramen and Pasta Sole, known for its viral parm wheel pasta dish. Clearly, the culinary lineup is meant to honor the city it calls home. Dillon tells Time Out New York that the omakase experience will come courtesy of chef B.K. Park from Chicago, who has been awarded a Michelin star for his work at Chicago's Mako restaurant. Also on deck? A "pour-my-beer wall:" basically, a self-service tap system for all sorts of ales varieties. What will likely differentiate Shaver Hall from the many other food halls currently operating around the city, though, is the concert stage that will be built in the middle of the space. Although no official acts have yet been signed, Dillon is quick to note that the future lineup will be "dialed into the New York-centric music scene as much as possible." The team hopes to partner with locals to help out with the programming, which will potentially include non-music-related activations as well—think fashion shows, comedy nights and more. "We're going to offer a music and entertainment program seven days a week," says Dillon. The building, which also houses Amazon offices, is clearly a historical address—and so is the project's name. "Shaver Hall is named after Dorothy Shaver," explains Dillon. "She was actually the first President of Lord & Taylor and one of the first female CEO executives in the world." According to Dillon, Shaver was responsible for the very concept of department stores, shaping the destinations into what they are today.


New York Post
27-04-2025
- Business
- New York Post
First look at the stylish food hall inside former Lord & Taylor in NYC
The windows of the former Lord & Taylor department store will soon be lit up for the first time since it closed in 2019 — but shoppers and strollers will see not fashion, but food. A hospitality company little-known in New York is launching a giant, 35,000 square-foot edibles emporium at Amazon-owned 425 Fifth Ave. this year, bucking the tide of recent food hall closures that most recently claimed UrbanSpace at Union Square. Shaver Hall, named for legendary Lord & Taylor president Dorothy Shaver, will hold forth on one of Manhattan's most visible, but long-dark, ground-floor blockfronts, on the avenue's west side between West 38th and 39th streets. Advertisement 3 Amazon bought 425 Five Ave., above, for $1 billion in 2020. Google The culinary complex, renderings of which are shown here for the first time, will bring public life to the landmarked building for the first time in six years. It will have two full-scale restaurants, one of them a 'destination' spot named Tallow Steakhouse. The whole place will be run by The Food Hall Co., a Dallas-based outfit behind large entertainment-and-food halls in Nashville and Plano, Texas. Amazon, which purchase the building for $1 billion in 2020, will be Shaver Hall's landlord. Advertisement Food Hall Co. says it's dedicated to 'creating disruptive entertainment and dining concepts at the heartbeat of their local communities.' It's a brand of FB Society, a privately held owner of hospitality concepts that it incubates and nurtures. Much about the Fifth Avenue project is yet to be revealed, but its reps shared with Realty Check that its 11 'curated' food stalls will include an omakase restaurant by Michelin-starred chef BK Park and 'a unique concept featuring a variety of cheeses and pairings on a revolving belt.' Previously announced as vendors are Mediterranean concept Zazu, Brooklyn's F&F Pizzeria and Taqueria Al Pastor. Advertisement 3 A rep for Food Hall Co. said Shaver Hall will be 'a curated culinary journey.' ICRAVE 3 A rendering of Shaver Hall, which the Food Hall Co. says will have 11 'curated' food stalls. ICRAVE Why does the Food Hall Co. think it can succeed while so many others are closing or shrinking? Advertisement A rep said, 'Shaver Hall is intentionally different. It's not a collection of leases, but a curated culinary journey paired with immersive programming' to include live entertainment, 'layered experiences' and 'architectural storytelling from top-tier partners like ZGF Architecture,' which is designing the space. Dorothy Shaver was a fashion entrepreneur who ran Lord & Taylor from 1945 until her death in 1959. Life magazine honored her as 'the No. 1 American career woman.'