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Yes, there's an award for the world's best wool — and San Francisco just hosted it
Yes, there's an award for the world's best wool — and San Francisco just hosted it

San Francisco Chronicle​

time5 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • San Francisco Chronicle​

Yes, there's an award for the world's best wool — and San Francisco just hosted it

In the world of high fashion, there is so-called 'quiet luxury' typified by subtle colors, a lack of discernible logos and exquisite craftsmanship. Just picture the billionaire spawn on 'Succession' or Jennifer Aniston's penthouse-dwelling newscaster on 'The Morning Show' if you need a visual reference. Then there's Loro Piana: The century-old Italian maison specializing in fine wool is so quiet, it doesn't even whisper — it just silently pantomimes. So it was no surprise when I entered the rotunda at San Francisco City Hall for the Loro Piana Record Bale Award on Wednesday, May 28, that the atmosphere was a sea of discreet taupe, bone and eggshell — both in the decor and attire of the clients of the brand. It was one of the few times covering parties in San Francisco when wearing black or navy (both usually safe) seemed like an act of sartorial rebellion. The Loro Piana Record Bale Award has been given since 1997 to recognize two farms (one in Australia and one in New Zealand) that produce the finest bale of Merino wool. For sheep breeders, it's like winning an Oscar. Given San Francisco's famed fog — and density of billionaires (the brand's prices are in the thousands) — the city felt like an appropriate host. 'I think there is a level of consumer here that can understand what we're doing,' said Loro Piana deputy chairman Pier Luigi Loro Piana. 'If we can please, somehow, the beautiful customer we have in San Francisco and California, we are pretty happy.' Should you ever get invited to the Bale Award presentation, take note: One must not use the term "shepherd,' which is apparently declasse. Also, no one will find it funny if you ask if any livestock are in attendance, nor should you inquire about Mary and her little lamb. Ditto Little Bo Peep. While no sheep were present (bahhhh humbug), their wool was an essential part of the experience. Guests included Mayor Daniel Lurie and director of protocol for Governor Gavin Newsom Becca Prowda; philanthropist Sako Fisher and hedge fund manager William Fisher; former ambassador to Austria Trevor Traina and author Alexis Swanson Traina; Apple's vice president of design Alan Dye and fashion designer Elizabeth Dye; San Francisco's Consul General of Italy Sergio Strozzi; animal welfare philanthropist Vanessa Getty; Google cofounder Sergey Brin, and incoming Loro Piana CEO Frédéric Arnault (son of billionaire LVMH founder Bernard Arnault, which owns an 80% stake of Loro Piana). All were invited to feel award-winning bales on display to understand just how luxurious the raw material is, thanks to its ultra-low micron counts. (A micron is a unit of measurement of the fineness of a fiber that is equivalent to one thousandth of a millimetre. By comparison, a human hair measures 80 microns.) I was instructed in the proper way to touch the wool, which is to pat the top of the bale with the palm. It was like caressing a cloud: I felt like my hand had entered another dimension, possibly heaven, or maybe Narnia. The centerpiece of the evening was a panel moderated by social media content creator 'The Gstaad Guy,' whose posts cheekily poke fun at the tastes of the uber rich. Joining him were Piana, current Loro Piana CEO Damien Bertrand, Australian sheep breeder Bradley Sandlant of the Pyrenees Park farm, and New Zealand sheep breeder Warwick Payne of the Visulea farm. Piana made an appropriately Italian analogy for the role of fine wool in the construction of fashion. 'If you want to make a good fabric, you have to start from a good raw material,' Piana said. 'Exactly as at a restaurant, if you want to make a good pasta, you need to have the right ingredients.' Bertrand noted that 'Loro Piana is a chain of hands from the sheep to the shop.' At the conclusion of the panel, Sandlant was awarded the 2024 Bale Award for Australia for a 10.5-micron bale, while Payne was awarded for New Zealand for a 10.8-micron bale. Following the award presentation, guests adjourned to the North Light Court of City Hall for a dinner by celebrity chef Michael Tusk (Cotogna, Quince). Dahlias, peonies and electronic candles punctuated the table that stretched across the room. Sandlant noted that such evenings were not the norm for his family in their life as sheep breeders (not shepherds.) 'Most of our day-to-day stuff in the country is just a regular farmer doing the best we can do,' said Sandlant. 'But to be able to produce a product that gets us around the world to follow and meet wonderful people that buy the end result product, that passion really drives us.' As I made my exit, I stroked the wool a final time. There's soft, and then there's Loro Piana award-winning bale soft: Cashmere and vicuña will probably feel like sandpaper in comparison. I hope the sheep back in Australia and New Zealand were partying too.

Loro Piana Strengthens Equestrian Ties At The 92nd Piazza Di Siena
Loro Piana Strengthens Equestrian Ties At The 92nd Piazza Di Siena

Forbes

time27-05-2025

  • Business
  • Forbes

Loro Piana Strengthens Equestrian Ties At The 92nd Piazza Di Siena

Edwina Tops Alexander Loro Piana Loro Piana, the Italian Maison known for its elegance, understated luxury, and exceptional textiles, has long been associated with fine sporting events, and this weekend we saw the luxury brand reinforce that connection by supporting the 92nd edition of the Concours de Saut International Officiel at Piazza di Siena. Edwina Tops Alexander Loro Piana Held in Rome's historic Villa Borghese, it's one of Europe's most prestigious equestrian competitions and as expected, offered a refined setting for Loro Piana to showcase its long-standing dedication to craftsmanship, tradition, and excellence. The House hosted two official competitions bearing its name: the Loro Piana Trophy and the Loro Piana Six-Bars, and representing the brand were Edwina Tops Alexander and Lorenzo De Luca, competing under Loro Piana's gold and blue colors as part of its jumping team. Lorenzo De Luca Loro Piana Loro Piana's connection to the equestrian world was inherent from the very beginning, with brothers Pier Luigi and Sergio Loro Piana, the former co-owners of the Maison, both passoniate riders. Sergio once described the sport as a school of life, one that instils perseverance and respect. Lorenzo De Luca Loro Piana Not only were the horses on show, it was also an opportunity to debut the latest version of the Loro Piana's equestrian uniforms, designed exclusively for the team, that channeled formal elegance and technical functionality. The pair wore a reworked Spagna jacket made from navy Bristol fabric, featuring an ochre cashmere pima collar and hand-finished crest buttons, which was paired with white jodhpurs in bonded stretch jersey, to offer comfort and easy movement. Loro Piana Spagna Jacket Loro Piana While off the oval, the riders wore pieces from Loro Piana's Icons collection which were originally developed for specific sporting activities, from sailing to motoring, and have evolved into essentials. Among these are the Horsey jacket in linen silk three-layer Belt Storm and bombers in Bristol and Windmate Stretch Storm, treated with Storm System making them water-repellent and wind-resistant for optimum performance. Loro Piana Horsey Jacket Loro Piana The stands and VIP spectator lounge reflected the event's pedigree, with a guest list to match, including the likes of Edie Campbell, Jessica Springsteen, Matilde Borromeo, Cloe Perrone, Maria Sole Torlonia, Maria Cristina Gasche, and Madina Visconti, each a familiar name in equestrian circles, and many wearing pieces from Loro Piana's S/S '25 collection. Edie Campbell Loro Piana Loro Piana's involvement in equestrian sport dates back to the '80s with the creation of its own jumping team, and in 1992 the brand applied its textile innovation to sportswear, designing the official uniforms for the Italian Show Jumping Team at the Barcelona Olympics, followed was the now-signature Horsey jacket. Since then, the Maison has continued to dress the Italian team at the Olympics and other major events, while also supporting the Loro Piana Puissance and the City of Rome Grand Prix. Jessica Springsteen Loro Piana Beyond equestrian sport, Loro Piana maintains a strong presence across other elite sporting events, including the I.C.E. St. Moritz classic car concours and the Regata dei Tre Golfi sailing competition, which also took part this month, reflecting the brand's focus on heritage and prestige. Loro Piana At Regata Dei Tre Golfi 2025 Loro Piana

Loro Piana: inside the brand that reinvented luxury style
Loro Piana: inside the brand that reinvented luxury style

Times

time24-05-2025

  • Lifestyle
  • Times

Loro Piana: inside the brand that reinvented luxury style

One thing money cannot protect you from is the sartorial mishap. A big budget is no immunisation against the brash and gaudy or the conservative and dull. But while it may be true that you cannot buy style, you can buy Loro Piana. The brand is a passport to impeccable, pared-back taste, and it is where I would recommend any master of the universe to start when building his or her (walk-in) wardrobe. Without flashy branding and blingy detailing, the 100-year-old Italian house has steadily established itself as the uniform of the better-dressed global elite. In a world of competitive ostentation and spot-a-mile-off gimmicks, Loro Piana is distinctive in its discretion, an emblem of taste and super-high quality. The look? Unassumingly — but unmistakably — moneyed, sure, and a shortcut to chic for those confident and established enough not to bother with chasing clout and status (or at least not obviously so). Simon Longland, the director of fashion buying at Harrods, salutes the brand's 'quiet confidence' and describes it as 'the very essence of true investment dressing'. Kay Barron, the fashion director of Net-a-Porter — where the brand's signature Traveller jacket performs consistently well — notes: 'Loro Piana has maintained its exclusivity, enabling it to engage with modern luxury consumers. Its understated, refined designs make it a go-to choice for those who prefer classic pieces with a contemporary twist.' When discussing Loro Piana, the ultimate stealth-wealth brand, you really have to contort yourself not to mention 'quiet luxury'. Damien Bertrand — Loro Piana's affable, exacting and cerebral French CEO, who can somehow quote Seneca and Voltaire and not sound pretentious — finds the term reductive ('We are discreet but we are not silent'). 'It's too much of a marketing trend,' he says, adding that the thing about trends is that they pass, and when the tide turns back to noise and logos 'we will stay who we are'. • Read more fashion advice and style inspiration from our experts When described Loro Piana's signature styles — the perfect knitted polos, the velvety cashmere bomber, the white-soled loafers, to name but a few — don't sound particularly noteworthy. But to see and to feel them is to get it; if you know, you know. (With a knowing nod and a wink to its USP, that was the name of the brand's first exhibition, held in the Museum of Art Pudong in Shanghai this spring — If You Know, You Know: Loro Piana's Quest for Excellence.) Bertrand enthuses about 'sensoriality' and the power of touch. It is a defiantly analogue brand in a digital world. In a tough climate for luxury, Loro Piana has been performing well. LVMH, which owns the brand, doesn't break down the sales of its individual houses, but earlier this year stressed the label's 'remarkable performance' in its annual earnings statement, with analysts estimating that sales at Loro Piana were between €2 billion (£1.6 billion) and €3 billion in 2024. (They were about €700 million in 2013, when LVMH acquired an 80 per cent stake for €2 billion.) What makes it special? 'The sense of detail, the sense of going to the extreme, the obsession with quality, the heritage, and also daring to look at the future, is what we want to do,' Bertrand tells me before the opening of the exhibition. 'It's a mix of having a very clear DNA and being proud of it and being knowledgeable about it, but at the same time using it to go forward.' Certainly the Loro Piana look — and as important, if not more so, the feel — resonates with the one-percenters. Masters of industry, tech titans, media moguls and ubergallerists are all fans. David Beckham is a repeat client; he wore a navy Loro Piana suit to the premiere of his Netflix documentary, and the tobacco Savile coat in visso wool (£4,840) in the stands of the Parc des Princes to watch the Paris Saint-Germain versus Liverpool Champions League fixture this March. It was among the brands Gwyneth Paltrow turned to for her much discussed and decoded Utah court wardrobe — the cream turtleneck sweater with its just-so slouch is surely one of the most pared-back pieces to ever go viral. She later hosted a dinner for the brand at her home, in collaboration with her wellness empire Goop, attended by Oprah Winfrey and Gayle King. The brand is clearly the unofficial uniform of Montecito's glossy posse — Paltrow's neighbour the Duchess of Sussex is another fan. Meghan namechecked Loro Piana in her Netflix series — wearing a Takao open-knit short-sleeved top with Zara trousers — and even linked to it on her ShopMy page of curated recommendations. • Pecora Nera: the dark wool that epitomises 'quiet luxury' It was a fictional role, however, that thrust the brand into the mainstream consciousness. As the media scion Kendall Roy in Succession, the details-obsessed actor Jeremy Strong was often bedecked in the brand. Today, life mirrors art and Strong is an ambassador for the house, wearing it not only IRL, but also on the red carpets of the Met Gala, Oscars and Golden Globes (remember that plush teal velvet suit and bucket hat). 'I'm drawn to the quest for excellence. I visited the factory in Valsesia and I love the obsession with process as much as with results,' he said at the exhibition private view of the Shanghai exhibition. 'I feel cocooned. There's something ineffable about it. You feel the craftsmanship, quality and exactitude, the care that goes into it.' When Succession aired, Kendall's £560 baseball cap got a lot of column inches. But Bertrand balks at the idea that Loro Piana is just a brand for billionaires. Sure, they have a lot of those, but there are more clients who come to invest in something they'll wear for ever. 'It's not just a question of status. People wear it because they feel good, because they are connoisseurs who understand the quality,' he says. 'To me our north star is the quality, the quality, the quality.' Still, there's no getting around it, Loro Piana is expensive. Properly so. But, as Puck's Lauren Sherman, the author of the fashion insider's newsletter Line Sheet, notes: 'The mill makes some of the best cashmere in the world, and for people with unlimited means, the value is there. It has also been smart about merchandising and pricing in a market where everything feels too expensive.' It's a fair point. In a world where the £3,000-plus, often distinctly average, handbag is commonplace, Loro Piana's superlative quality justifies its price tags. A polo shirt in the Gift of Kings wool, a 'noble and rare' merino that is extraordinarily light and soft, breathable and crease-proof, will set you back north of £2,000. But, says Bertrand: 'It's for people who are a little bit obsessed — I am a bit obsessed myself — who understand that the 12 micron [diameter] wool is coming from six farms in the world. That's it. We cannot source more than that.' On the opening night of the exhibition Bertrand presented the 10th edition of the Cashmere of the Year award, celebrating a record fineness of 12.8 microns (in comparison, standard copier paper is 100 microns thick; a typical human hair, 70). So limited is it in quantity, only a small number of custom pieces will be made for top-tier clients. Another Loro Piana signature is the ultra-precious, ultra-rare vicuña fibres, sourced from the camel-like animal that lives in the wild in the Peruvian Andes at an altitude upwards of 3,000 metres. That caused the wrong type of headache last year when a report in Bloomberg alleged that the process of gathering it relies on unpaid indigenous labour. Loro Piana strongly rejected the allegations, and Bertrand points out that during the brand's 30-plus years in Peru, it has not only invested in communities — health, infrastructure, education and so on — but also helped to save the vicuña from extinction. 'If anything, we will keep investing and keep developing because we felt — and that's why it was hard for the team — we felt from the beginning, it's our duty to do it,' he says. 'It motivates me even more to do more.' The quest for the best of the best has been central to the house since the beginning ('It defines profoundly the company, I think'). The brand was founded by the wool trader Pietro Loro Piana in Piedmont, Italy, in 1924. Under his nephew, Franco, the company started producing and exporting fabrics; in the 1970s the brothers Sergio and Pier Luigi Loro Piana began producing ready-to-wear; and in 2013, the luxury conglomerate LVMH came calling. In an executive shuffle, Bertrand departs the company for Louis Vuitton next month; Frédéric Arnault, the son of the LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, will take the reins at Loro Piana. At 29, Arnault is young, but that could prove savvy. Over the past few years a younger, more fashiony and — whisper it —cooler audience has fallen for Loro Piana's charms, spurred on by buzzy collaborations (New Balance, the Japanese artist Hiroshi Fujiwara), the most ridiculously comfortable loungewear, and a growing appreciation for slow fashion. Merging the menswear and womenswear design studios has also proved a smart move. The spring-summer 2025 collection, with its languid tailoring and louche layers — all tunics over puddling trousers, tonal shirts and blazers, easy pants tucked into thick socks, strange little architectural hats (there is always a dash of whimsy; don't mistake discretion for a lack of levity) — speaks to an exacting, style-fluent client. Innovation is also one of the cornerstones, and the brand is constantly pursuing new fabrics, such as CashDenim — an exclusive fabric created by Italian and Japanese artisans — found on the ultimate jet-set jeans. Like the brand's lotus flower yarn, it has a limited production capacity. Fine by him, Bertrand says: 'We have the luxury of time. And time is luxury.' The brand has also extended its product range, drawing in increasing numbers of customers in the process. As Longland notes: 'Over the past two to three years we've seen the collection expand meaningfully, while staying rooted in impeccable craftsmanship.' There are the excellent shoes, for instance. Sherman identifies the 'near-ubiquitous' pointy flats — the almond-toe Rebecca pumps, which cost under £1,000 — as 'drawing in fashion enthusiasts in a way the brand never has before' (I love them in the glossy conker leather and nubby silk tapestry). Meanwhile the brilliant bags (a 'flourishing business') such as the perfectly proportioned, almost-anonymous Extra Bag L27 — a boxy, fuss-free design — have resonated with the kind of tastemaker who probably bristles at the words 'It bag'. See also sunglasses, homewares and the Library of Prints silk scarf collection, released to mark the centenary. 'This tension between heritage and novelty, heritage and futuristic vision I think makes Loro Piana unique today in the world of fashion,' Bertrand says. When he joined the brand, his mission was simple: 'Let's cultivate Loro Piana's singularity.' Mission accomplished.

Jeremy Strong brings male power-dressing to Cannes
Jeremy Strong brings male power-dressing to Cannes

Japan Times

time24-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Japan Times

Jeremy Strong brings male power-dressing to Cannes

Not content to let extravagant sculptural dresses steal all the limelight on the Cannes red carpet, "Succession" star Jeremy Strong has brought some eye-catching male designer wear to the film festival. The 46-year-old, who is serving on the Cannes Festival jury, has showcased a range of bold sartorial choices from a baggy peach-colored corduroy shirt on opening day to a pastel green tuxedo and bow tie. The father-of-three, Oscar-nominated for his role in Donald Trump biopic "The Apprentice," has given full expression to his love of bright monochrome outfits in a place where most men play safe in black and white. For Saturday's closing night, he appeared in a pastel blue suit, with sunglasses and a silk neck scarf as he strode down the red carpet with his fellow jury members. Fashion website WWD said the Boston-born actor had been wearing suits by Italy's Loro Piana, continuing an association that dates back to his time in "Succession," which sparked the so-called "quiet luxury" trend. Jeremy Strong has been reportedly working with Italy's Loro Piana for many of his pastel-colored suits. | AFP-JIJI Strong is one of the nine-member Cannes jury to hand out the festival's top Palme d'Or prizes on Saturday. In a press conference with his fellow judges at the start of the festival, he stuck a serious note, saying cinema had a responsibility beyond fashion statements. He said that we are living at a "time where truth is under assault, where truth is becoming increasingly in danger. "Here specifically in this temple of film, the role of film is increasingly critical, because it can combat those forces in the entropy of truth, and it can communicate truths, individual truths, human truths, societal truths, and affirm and celebrate our shared humanity." Strong is known for his intense demeanor and commitment to acting, though "Succession" co-star Brian Cox once called his methods "annoying." Cannes juries can sometimes be riven with tension as they weigh up over 20 films and try to reach a consensus. French screen legend Juliette Binoche is the chairwoman this year, with Hollywood actor Halle Berry, Franco-Moroccan writer Leila Slimani, Indian filmmaker Payal Kapadia and Italian actress Alba Rohrwacher making it a women-majority panel.

The ultimate Eid Al Adha gift guide for the man in your life
The ultimate Eid Al Adha gift guide for the man in your life

Emirates Woman

time22-05-2025

  • Lifestyle
  • Emirates Woman

The ultimate Eid Al Adha gift guide for the man in your life

Emirates Man by Sarah Joseph 4 hours ago As we approach Eid Al Adha, finding the right gift for your loved ones can prove to be a challenging task sometimes. From one-of-a-kind watches to scentsational scents, these must-have perfect presents have an air of laidback luxe about them. Expect a selection of favourites from Loro Piana, Tom Ford, Loewe, Amouage, and more – these pieces not only make for perfect gifts but are a timeless, classic investment pieces to add to your wardrobe. When is Eid al Adha? Another significant Islamic holiday, Eid Al Adha, is scheduled for three days in the month of Dhu Al Hijjah. The specific dates for this celebration will also be confirmed based on lunar observations. Additionally, one day each is allocated for Arafat Day and the Islamic New Year, Muharram 1. Arafat Day is anticipated on Friday, May 30, leading to Eid Al Adha celebrations likely to be around Saturday May 31 to Wednesday June 2. By understanding the anticipated holiday schedule, individuals and businesses can effectively plan their leave and activities throughout the year. It's also advisable to stay updated on any official announcements closer to the holidays, as there might be minor adjustments or additional information provided. Swipe through the gallery below for sophisticated Eid gifting ideas for the special man in your life. Whether you're shopping for your husband, father, brother or son, don't worry as this guide has you covered. Whether you're shopping for your husband, father, brother or son, don't worry as this guide has you covered. – For more on luxury lifestyle, news, fashion and beauty follow Emirates Woman on Facebook and Instagram Images: Supplied & Feature Image: Instagram @mrporter

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