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Otago Daily Times
18-05-2025
- Otago Daily Times
Bleak past shrouded by enveloping mist
It would be redundant to say the Scottish Highlands are beautiful. There is a sort of raw otherworldliness about the Highlands, with their towering mountains wreathed in mist, deep dark glens and silver lochs. The air is crisp with notes of pine and peat, and you can drive for miles without seeing a single living soul — save for the sheep. Glencoe is one of my favourite spots in the Highlands. A steep-sided valley on the west coast of Scotland, the glen cuts a dramatic path from the northeast near the village of Glencoe and Loch Leven, southwest towards Rannoch Moor, with the A82 road running through its length. Three towering, rugged mountains loom over the glen — Beinn Fhada, Gearr Aonach and Aonach Dubh, known collectively as the Three Sisters of Glencoe. Glencoe's dramatic landscape owes its origins to cataclysmic volcanic activity that took place some 400 million years ago. Later, Ice Age glaciers chiselled the glen into the striking forms we see today. According to local myth, the great Celtic warrior Fingal once called these highlands home. His son, Ossian, a bard and dreamer, is said to have drawn inspiration from the glen's wild beauty. I took my little sisters to Glencoe last September, along with my best friend Fidra. It was a moody, misty day, befitting a place so soaked in sorrow and memory. On February 13, 1692, a grisly massacre took place at Glencoe. Around 120 government soldiers led by Captain Robert Campbell of Glenlyon arrived in Glencoe and were hosted by the MacDonalds for nearly two weeks, breaking bread and sharing wine with them under the Highland code of hospitality. Then, early in the morning of the 13th, the soldiers turned on their hosts, and murdered 38 MacDonald men, women and children in their homes and in the bloody snow as they fled. The massacre began simultaneously at three settlements across the glen — Invercoe, Inverigan and Achnacon — but the MacDonalds were pursued over the glen and into the mountains, where many more of them perished from the elements. The slaughter had been ordered by John Dalrymple, Scottish Secretary of State, ostensibly as punishment for the MacDonalds' failure to swear allegiance to William of Orange by a government-imposed deadline. Following the Glorious Revolution of 1688, many Highland clans remained loyal to the deposed King James VII of Scotland (James II of England), and refused to recognise William III as their new sovereign. In response, the government issued a proclamation in August 1691 promising a royal pardon to any clan chiefs who swore allegiance to William before January 1, 1692. Anticipating defiance, the authorities prepared "letters of fire and sword" to authorise violent enforcement against those who failed to comply. Despite much initial hesitation, most clan leaders took the oath, after seeking relief from their earlier oaths to James Stuart, the deposed king in France. Chief MacIain of Glencoe delayed his submission until the final day of the deadline, December 31, 1691. But upon arriving at Fort William, MacDonald discovered there was no official present to record his oath, so he was forced to travel to Inveraray, where he finally swore loyalty on January 6. While this delay was accepted by local officials, Dalrymple was having none of it. The attack at Glencoe was part of a larger goal — to pacify the Highlands, suppress Jacobite sympathies and break the power of clans perceived as disloyal to the crown. The massacre at Glencoe shocked and horrified Scottish society, not only because of its brutality, but for the unmitigated betrayal of deeply held Highland values. Captain Campbell's personal involvement was particularly wounding — he was related by marriage to some of the MacDonalds. While the government brushed it aside after a brief inquiry and the resignation of John Dalrymple, the massacre helped galvanise support for the Jacobite cause in the decades that followed. Even today, Glencoe represents the wider suffering and betrayal of the Highlands — the historic Clachaig Inn in Glencoe bears a (tongue-in-cheek) reminder of this lasting bitterness with a sign on its door that reads: "No Campbells." (I doubt this rule is enforced, however). There have been some fascinating archaeological excavations at Glencoe. In 2018, a team from the National Trust for Scotland began surveying several areas of the glen related to the massacre, and in 2019, they focused on the settlement of Achadh Triachatain, at the far end of the glen. The archaeologists found evidence that the settlement had been rebuilt after 1692 and occupied until the Highland Clearances of the mid-18th century. In 2021 the National Trust completed a full-sized reconstruction of one of the buildings excavated at Achadh Triachatain using traditional techniques and materials. My sisters and I visited this building; it was sturdy, atmospheric and a welcome respite from the near-constant drizzle. Only last year, a team from the University of Glasgow discovered a bent plaid pin, musket balls, pottery and coins at what is believed to be the house of MacDonald of Achnacon, the head man of the village (who narrowly escaped with his life in 1692). Who knows what other treasures are hidden there beneath the grass of Glencoe? The ramifications of the Glencoe massacre have rippled through the centuries and will continue to do so. Glencoe is more than a beautiful place — it is a cautionary tale, a trope of fantasy literature, a warning, a legend, a nightmare for some. It is a place where beauty and history meet, and I can't wait to return. • Jean Balchin is an ODT columnist who has started a new life in Edinburgh.
Daily Record
25-04-2025
- Daily Record
The Scottish Highlands hike that ends at 'Scotland's cosiest pub'
The scenic walk ends up at an inn that serves incredible food. As many Scots know, Glen Coe is one of the most picturesque beauty spots in Scotland. The glen, which cuts though volcanic rocks in the Highlands, has long been a popular destination amongst hillwalkers. However, given its huge area of around 56.3 kilometre squared, it can be difficult to know where to begin. That is why the Daily Record's latest Walk of the Week is a short and sweet hike in Glen Coe that can be completed in less than two hours. An Torr and Signal Rock is one of only a few shorter walks in Glen Coe. It is an idyllic hike through coniferous plantation to Signal Rock, which is said to be a gathering place for the MacDonalds of Glencoe. Leading you through peaceful woodland within the central part of the glen, the route is just under two miles in length. All in all, it should take between 90 minutes and two hours to complete. The hike begins at a car park on the north side of A82, from where you follow a tarmac path through willow and alder scrub. From here, you will cross a wooden bridge over the River Coe and enter the An Torr woodland. Keep following the path, and eventually you will climb to Signal Rock. You will find an interpretation board here, as well as glimpses of incredible views across the glen through the trees. Once you are done, it is simply a matter of retracing your steps. Before you go home, though, there is one detour that is definitely worth the extra steps. The Clachaig Inn is an award-winning hotel and pub that serves up both refreshing drinks and hearty food. It has even previously been described as one of the "cosiest pubs in Scotland" by Absolute Escapes. Read on for a few photographs that show why Signal Rock is a great hiking destination. More information about the hike can be found on the Wild About Lochaber website. Meanwhile, some of the Daily Record's past Walks of the Week can be found below: Don't miss the latest news from around Scotland and beyond - sign up to the Scotland Now newsletter here. More On Walking and climbing Glencoe Food Pubs, bars and nightclubs Discover Scotland
Yahoo
25-03-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Skye clan estate and historic castle put up for sale
One of the largest estates on the Isle of Skye, which includes a famous castle and the historic lands of the Clan MacDonald, is being put up for sale. The charity which owns the land said it had taken the "difficult" decision to sell Armadale Castle and the 20,000-acre estate because of financial challenges. The Clan Donald Lands Trust said it wanted to focus on giving grants to "Clan and indigenous Highland heritage projects". The sale came as a surprise to people living in the south of Skye, who have criticised the lack of community involvement in the decision. The estate covers much of the island's southern Sleat peninsula. The land is mostly used by tenant crofters and farmers, and has a history as a game shooting estate. It also includes Armadale Castle, the historic home of the MacDonalds of Sleat. This popular tourist destination includes a clan museum, café and walled garden. The land and castle have been owned since 1971 by the Clan Donald Lands Trust. This charity was formed by clan members from around the world following the death of Clan Chief Alexander Godfrey, the 7th Lord Macdonald. The trust blamed a large increase in the costs of running and maintaining Armadale Castle for the decision to sell the land. In a statement, the board of trustees said: "Due to the high-cost, low-income nature of Armadale, we have always been reliant on external grant funding to cover our operating costs. "The availability of this funding has been reduced by the impact of ongoing investment market volatility. "At the same time our core costs - including electricity, insurance and essential building repairs - have massively increased." The trustees said the sale of assets would allow the charity to "stand on its own two feet" for the first time. Visitors were assured that the sale should not negatively affect tourists during the 2025 season. It is unclear what the announcement means for those who work in the visitor centre or on the estate. BBC Scotland News has contacted Clan Donald Land Trust's CEO, Alex Stoddart, for further comment. News of the sale caught the surrounding locals off guard. Dr Andy Williamson, chair of the Sleat Community Council, said no-one in the community had known the decision was being made. But he was not "overly surprised" by the lack of consultation. "The trustees aren't in the community. They're in London and the US," he said. Dr Williamson said the lack of a relationship between the landowners and the community could be "detrimental to a good outcome" in the sale. "Our fears are it could be packaged off or further broken up. Our fears are that people might want to buy it simply to put wind turbines on it," he said. "How does that benefit the community? How does that benefit the people of Sleat and the Isle of Skye?" However, the estate agents hired to promote the sale said they were mindful of local sensitivities. Robert McCulloch, from Strutt and Parker, said: "We recognise the deep connections that many feel to this land and the importance of a respectful approach to its future. "We are committed to managing the forthcoming sale process with sensitivity and integrity." The sale comes as the Scottish Parliament is to debate the Land Reform Bill, which would regulate how large land estates in Scotland are sold. Among the measures under consideration are rules that would force landowners to tell the local community in advance of plans to sell large plots of land. Dr Williamson said that the community might have been interested in a community buy-out, but that the sudden sale had made that all but impossible. "It's going on the market on Thursday and today is Tuesday. So, how do we raise however much money it is? We don't know what the asking price will be. "How would we do it? How would a community like Sleat generate that kind of money in the time involved?" Visits to Skye's Storr could hit post-pandemic high The dark history behind Skye's famous Fairy Pools The changing face of Scotland's landowners
BBC News
25-03-2025
- Business
- BBC News
Isle of Skye clan estate and historic castle put up for sale
One of the largest estates on the Isle of Skye, which includes a famous castle and the historic lands of the Clan MacDonald, is being put up for charity which owns the land said it had taken the "difficult" decision to sell Armadale Castle and the 20,000-acre estate because of financial Clan Donald Lands Trust said it wanted to focus on giving grants to "Clan and indigenous Highland heritage projects".The sale came as a surprise to people living in the south of Skye, who have criticised the lack of community involvement in the decision. The estate covers much of the island's southern Sleat land is mostly used by tenant crofters and farmers, and has a history as a game shooting also includes Armadale Castle, the historic home of the MacDonalds of Sleat. This popular tourist destination includes a clan museum, café and walled garden. The land and castle have been owned since 1971 by the Clan Donald Lands Trust. This charity was formed by clan members from around the world following the death of Clan Chief Alexander Godfrey, the 7th Lord trust blamed a large increase in the costs of running and maintaining Armadale Castle for the decision to sell the a statement, the board of trustees said: "Due to the high-cost, low-income nature of Armadale, we have always been reliant on external grant funding to cover our operating costs."The availability of this funding has been reduced by the impact of ongoing investment market volatility."At the same time our core costs - including electricity, insurance and essential building repairs - have massively increased."The trustees said the sale of assets would allow the charity to "stand on its own two feet" for the first time. Visitors were assured that the sale should not negatively affect tourists during the 2025 is unclear what the announcement means for those who work in the visitor centre or on the Scotland News has contacted Clan Donald Land Trust's CEO, Alex Stoddart, for further of the sale caught the surrounding locals off Andy Williamson, chair of the Sleat Community Council, said no-one in the community had known the decision was being he was not "overly surprised" by the lack of consultation."The trustees aren't in the community. They're in London and the US," he Williamson said the lack of a relationship between the landowners and the community could be "detrimental to a good outcome" in the sale."Our fears are it could be packaged off or further broken up. Our fears are that people might want to buy it simply to put wind turbines on it," he said."How does that benefit the community? How does that benefit the people of Sleat and the Isle of Skye?" However, the estate agents hired to promote the sale said they were mindful of local McCulloch, from Strutt and Parker, said: "We recognise the deep connections that many feel to this land and the importance of a respectful approach to its future. "We are committed to managing the forthcoming sale process with sensitivity and integrity."The sale comes as the Scottish Parliament is to debate the Land Reform Bill, which would regulate how large land estates in Scotland are the measures under consideration are rules that would force landowners to tell the local community in advance of plans to sell large plots of Williamson said that the community might have been interested in a community buy-out, but that the sudden sale had made that all but impossible."It's going on the market on Thursday and today is Tuesday. So, how do we raise however much money it is? We don't know what the asking price will be."How would we do it? How would a community like Sleat generate that kind of money in the time involved?"
