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Evening Standard

How to drink your way down the Thames

Finally, on our return leg to Chertsey, we moored an appetite building stroll from Adam Handling's Loch & The Tyne in Old Windsor, a meadow separating it from Sir Elton John's castle. Handling, whose brand of British precision has already shaped Frog by AH and Ugly Butterfly, brings the same aesthetic discipline here: immaculate plating, flavours which don't flinch, and a dining room which manages to feel both celebratory and grounded, like a wedding where the couple actually like each other. The wine list, overseen by the dynamic Kelvin McCabe, veers confidently from native curiosity to lush Sonoma Pinot Noir without ever losing its grip on relevance. Cocktails include the Macallan-centred Perfect Three Cherries, a handsome suede scented libation which lends its name to Handling's cocktail book. Also, Verdant Lightbulb, Extra Pale Ale from Cornwall, had a fluffy head and just enough attitude to justify the name.