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Grandfather's Liquor: A Regal Rajasthani Rose Wine So Bold It Was Banned For Decades
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A royal Rajasthani liquor crafted with Damask roses and more than 75 herbs, Maharani Mahansar Shahi Gulab revives a 250-year-old legacy of regal taste and tradition
Maharani Mahansar Heritage Liquor is the modern embodiment of a legacy spanning nine generations, deeply rooted in the eras of monarchy, colonialism, and post-independence Rajasthan. Known as Maharani Mahansar Shahi Gulab, this distinguished spirit is often hailed as Rajasthan's heritage liquor.
Fondly referred to as 'grandfather's liquor', it evokes the grandeur of Rajasthani royalty, crafted to suit the refined palates of kings and maharajas.
A Taste Of Regal Distinction
Unlike ordinary liquors, this spirit is celebrated for its unique, sophisticated flavour, making it a favourite among connoisseurs across India. Its origins trace back nearly 250 years, to the 18th century, when Rajasthani royals commissioned bespoke liquors tailored to their tastes.
Raja Karni Singh of the Mahansar royal family in Shekhawati was among those who collaborated with Vaidyas (Ayurvedic physicians) to create over 50 varieties of herb-infused spirits, enjoyed within the tall walls of Mahansar Fort. Originally known as Rajwadi Daru, the spirit was later renamed 'Maharani Mahansar Shahi Gulab'.
These heritage liquors embody the vibrant aromas of Indian spices and reflect the cultural strength of Rajasthan's past.
Not Merely Liquor, But Fermented Herbal Elixirs
The earliest versions of Rajasthani liquor were likely fermented herbal infusions designed as Ayurvedic remedies, referred to as asavas. By the 15th and 16th centuries, the Rajput caste permitted alcohol consumption among the ruling elite, unlike the Brahmins in other regions, who prohibited it.
In response, royal physicians began crafting potent herbal asavas using high-proof alcohol and unusual ingredients such as mutton, rabbit's blood, and the essence from a male sparrow's skull.
Feudal Craftsmanship
As the demand for royal liquor expanded, its production was delegated to feudal lords, Jagirdars and Thikanedars. Among the most esteemed were the former kings of Shekhawat, who became expert spirit-makers.
The preparation method was traditional, relying on clay vessels and natural ingredients like jaggery. The concoctions were fermented over several days and underwent multiple distillations to reach their refined form, fit for royal consumption.
A Fusion Of Over 75 Herbs And Spices
These heritage liquors contained up to 80% alcohol, rivalling modern absinthe. Anil K. Singh, former general manager of Rajasthan's state distillery and author on the subject, noted that each variant comprised at least 20, and sometimes over 75, herbs and spices. Classic Indian ingredients like cardamom and fennel were blended with rare botanicals such as white musli and sandalwood, giving the spirit its signature fragrance and distinct appearance.
Crafting Maharani Shahi Gulab
Maharani Mahansar Shahi Gulab is crafted from grain alcohol and infused with Damask roses from Pushkar, Ajmer, renowned for their quality.
The flowers are handpicked in the early morning and used by evening, followed by a fermentation phase lasting five to 15 days. During this period, dry fruits and a medley of spices are soaked.
The brew is then distilled thrice in specially designed copper vessels, resulting in the drink's signature pink hue and aromatic complexity.
Legal Revival Through The Heritage Liquor Bill
Following Independence, heritage liquor was banned by the government until 1997. In 1998, however, the Rajasthan government passed the Heritage Liquor Bill, aimed at conserving these traditional methods.
In 2003, Rajendra Singh Shekhawat established Shekhawati Heritage Herbal Private Limited. A key milestone came in 2016 when the Rajasthan Excise Department permitted the setting up of a copper-distillation unit in Churu district, around 60 km from Mahansar. Since then, heritage liquor has not only made a comeback in India but also reached international markets.
Flavours And Affordability
Maharani Mahansar is currently available in five flavours, including mint and somras, with Shahi Gulab being the most celebrated. Despite its royal lineage, the liquor is reasonably priced. A 750 ml bottle typically costs between Rs 1000 and Rs 1200 in Rajasthan, with minor variations in other states. The affordability is due to significant government subsidies and exemption from excise duties to encourage preservation of this cultural legacy.
With an alcohol content of 35.7%, this spirit is not consumed like conventional liquors. A mere 30 ml pour can fill a room with the rich scent of rose, and the flavour closely resembles a delicate herbal sharbat, a nod to both indulgence and tradition.
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