6 days ago
How conservative Malta became Europe's most gay-friendly country
A few years ago, the Archdiocese of Malta published a surprising post on social media.
'It was when Pope Francis came to visit,' recalls Robert Attard, a resident of the Mediterranean island nation. 'They uploaded a video of a trans man with a trans flag proudly saying how he's very happy that the Pope is here. To see that from Malta and the church was very refreshing.'
For a period, gay rights activist Attard left Malta to live in London, blaming his home country's lack of acceptance. He's since returned and works as Community and Outreach Officer for a non-governmental organisation, the Malta Gay Rights Movement, offering support to the country's growing LGBT community.
But a lot has changed in the last decade. Following a flurry of legislation, staunchly traditional Malta has rebranded itself as a liberal, gay-friendly destination.
Last month, it topped the Rainbow Index, which ranks European countries according to their friendliness towards LGBT travellers, for the tenth year running (the UK fell to 22nd place). The organisers of London-born inclusive pop extravaganza Mighty Hoopla have chosen the island for their first overseas event, taking place in September.
Dotted with more churches per square mile than supermarkets, Malta seems an unlikely candidate to rival gay-magnet Mykonos. So how has this remarkable change happened?
'A combination of forward-thinking legislation, including equal marriage, gender recognition rights, anti-discrimination protections, and high-profile events like EuroPride 2023 have positioned Malta as a welcoming, safe, and celebratory destination for LGBTQ+ travellers,' says Tolene Van Der Merwe, Director UK & Ireland for Malta Tourism Authority.
LGBT rights have certainly accelerated at an unexpected speed. Since 2013, Malta has introduced same-sex civil partnerships, adoption rights for same-sex couples, a ban on conversion therapy practices, and self-determination for legal gender recognition.
Attard believes the switch was largely linked to political change. After 25 years of Nationalist rule, the Maltese opted for a Labour government in 2013. 'Civil rights had been on the agenda,' he recalls. Around that time, he says, people also realised the strength of the Catholic Church – a power once entwined with government – was waning.
'Laws brought visibility, and people felt more comfortable with being themselves,' he adds.
Another clue to the dramatic turnaround could be down to the size of the population – just under 553,000, around six times smaller than Wales. 'I think being a small island really helps the mentality improve,' insists Attard.
Yet conservative attitudes haven't changed entirely. In March this year, a Brazilian man complained that police stopped him from kissing another man during carnival celebrations.
Cases of discrimination, particularly toward the trans community, still occur – although Attard stresses there are only a handful of incidents compared to the past.
The abortion question
Despite being gay-friendly, Malta continues to uphold the EU's most restrictive abortion law, classing it as a criminal act. It presents an uncomfortable dissonance.
'Being Catholic, we're very family-oriented,' explains Attard, reflecting upon the stark contrast in attitudes. 'Accepting your son or daughter as someone who wants to raise a family, whether they're two dads, two mums, somehow that's OK, because it's about raising a family… But abortion is seen as killing a baby.
'However, discussion of the subject is being given space in the media now. And there's also discussion on euthanasia now at the moment.'
It seems opinions are becoming increasingly progressive, at a time when other European countries appear to be veering right. The net result, believes Van Der Merwe, will be a boom in tourism.
'Tour operators and local businesses have noticed increased demand for packages, experiences, and stays tailored to the LGBTQ+ market,' she says, 'suggesting that Malta's inclusive stance is driving real tourism growth.'
Alba Bustamante, Director of Global Brand Marketing at Meliá Hotels International, which operates four properties in coastal town and nightlife hub St Julian's, believes it's been a two-way process.
'Global tourism has played a vital role in reshaping attitudes, fostering a more open-minded, inclusive environment across the country,' she says. 'Our employees have been trained to provide service based on empathy and respect, regardless of sexual orientation, gender identity or gender expression.'
For any gay travellers visiting the island, Attard recommends heading to Kaktus bar in resort town Sliema on the north coast, nightclub Michaelangelo in St Julian's or any events held by party organisers Lollipop. But he admits there's a dearth of dedicated queer bars.
Whether Malta is set to be Europe's gay travel capital remains to be seen. Oliver James, a keen traveller and member of London's gay community, is yet to be convinced.
'It has potential, but they are still missing some key factors,' he says. 'They need more bougie hotels. I mean, there's not even a Soho House…'
