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Boston Globe

Three Mardi Gras recipes worthy of a celebration

Makes 4 servings Gumbo commonly is made with meat or seafood — or both — with okra or filé powder (ground dried sassafras leaves) added for flavor as well as for thickening; this is sometimes in addition to a dark roux made with fat and flour. This recipe delivers a flavorful, meat-free stew that's hearty but not heavy, with tangy-sweet tomatoes and a touch of spice and sugar complementing the mild vegetal notes of the okra. Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up Be sure to choose fresh okra that's firm, unblemished, and bright green. Don't slice the okra too far in advance or it may become slimy. For convenience, you can freeze the cut okra (for up to several months), then thaw it just before use. For best results, set the slices, not touching, on a sheet pan and freeze until firm, then transfer to a freezer-safe storage bag until ready to use. Advertisement Serve the gumbo Louisiana style — that is, in individual bowls, spooned around a mound of steamed white rice, with freshly sliced scallions for sprinkling on top and a bottle of hot sauce alongside. Miss the meat? Feel free to pair this gumbo with plump shrimp or smoky andouille sausage (or both). 1 tablespoon grape-seed or other neutral oil 1 medium yellow onion, chopped 1 poblano chili or 1 small green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped 2 teaspoons cumin seeds or coriander seeds, lightly crushed Kosher salt and ground black pepper Advertisement 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand 1 teaspoon white sugar or packed light brown sugar 1 pound okra, stemmed and sliced into ½-inch rounds Steamed white rice, to serve 3 scallions, thinly sliced Hot sauce, to serve In a large Dutch oven set over medium-high heat, warm the oil until shimmering. Add the onion, chili, cumin, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes with juices, the sugar, and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, then add the okra. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the okra is tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. To serve, mound the rice in bowls, add the gumbo alongside, and sprinkle with the scallions. Offer hot sauce on the side. Maque Choux With Andouille Sausage Connie Miller Maque Choux With Andouille Sausage Makes 4 servings Maque choux, pronounced 'mock shoe,' is eaten year-round, yet the origins of the spicy medley of corn, peppers, and onions are somewhat murky. Native Americans introduced the Cajuns to corn, as well as many other ingredients that show up in Cajun cuisine. In fact, the commonly cited etymology of 'maque choux' suggests that it was derived from a French interpretation of its Native American name. Andouille sausage is not traditional, but we like its smoky, meaty flavor paired with the sweetness of fresh corn. And, in addition to the standard green bell pepper, we add in a poblano chili, which has an earthy flavor and mild heat. Frozen corn won't work in this recipe, as it lacks the delicate crispness of fresh and won't produce the corn 'milk' needed to give this dish the proper consistency. Corn kernels freshly cut from the cobs are best here, as the starchy milk can be scraped from the cobs and used to enrich the maque choux without the use of heavy cream, which can mute the other flavors in the dish. Advertisement Remember to salt the vegetables immediately after adding them to the skillet. This helps draw out moisture so they soften faster. 3 ears of corn, husks and silks removed 1 tablespoon grape-seed or other neutral oil 6 ounces andouille sausage, halved lengthwise and cut into ½-inch pieces 2 tablespoons salted butter 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped 1 small red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped 1 poblano chili, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped Kosher salt and ground black pepper 2 medium garlic cloves, minced ½ teaspoon dried thyme 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 4 scallions, thinly sliced Using a chef's knife, cut the kernels from the ears of corn, then set the kernels aside. One at a time, stand each stripped cob in a wide bowl, then use the back of the knife to scrape from top to bottom all around it, allowing the liquid to fall into the bowl. Add the kernels to the bowl and set aside. In a 12-inch skillet set over medium-high heat, warm the oil until shimmering. Add the sausage and cook, stirring, until well browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and discard any fat in the skillet. Set the skillet over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the onion, bell pepper, poblano chili, and ½ teaspoon salt. Cook, scraping up any browned bits and stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the garlic and thyme, then cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Advertisement Increase the heat to medium-high and add the corn kernels and liquid, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring, until the corn is crisp-tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Return the sausage to the skillet, then stir and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Stir in the vinegar, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the scallions, then serve. Miso-Spiced Rum Bananas Foster Connie Miller Miso-Spiced Rum Bananas Foster Makes 4 servings Bananas foster is a uniquely American dessert that originated at Brennan's restaurant in New Orleans. To give the classic a big flavor update, we swap out the usual brown sugar for honey, which sweetens while adding floral nuances. A little white miso — the lightest, sweetest, most delicate miso — brings balance with a delicious savoriness. And to add even more flavor (without extending the ingredients list), we use spiced rum as a one-ingredient way to infuse the buttery sauce with flavor and aroma. Rather than flambé the whole dish, which is traditional, we take a safer, flame-free approach, gently cooking off the alcohol to temper its harshness. (You'll know it's done when it no longer smells 'raw.') While usually served with good-quality vanilla ice cream, it also makes a fantastic crepe filling or pancake topping. An optional dusting of Chinese five-spice powder lends intriguing spiciness that complements the rum. 3 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 3 pieces 3 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon white miso 2 bananas, peeled and halved lengthwise then crosswise ½ cup spiced rum Advertisement Vanilla ice cream, to serve In a Dutch oven set over medium heat, melt the butter. Stir in the honey and miso. Add the bananas and cook, stirring carefully so as not to bruise the fruit, until the sauce is slightly darker in color, about 2 minutes. Off heat, pour in the rum. Return the pan to medium heat and cook, stirring carefully, until the alcohol no longer smells raw, about 2 minutes. Divide the bananas and sauce among 4 serving bowls, then top with ice cream. Garnish with the Chinese five-spice powder, if using. Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, home to a magazine, school, and radio and television shows. 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