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National Geographic
11 hours ago
- National Geographic
See France's Basque coast through the eyes of a photographer
The pearl of France's Basque coast, Biarritz has long been a playground for European high society. Today, the town and its neighbours retain a nostalgic charm, with visitors drawn to the region for fine dining, belle epoque architecture and surf breaks. The harbour at St-Jean-de-Luz offers a view to Ciboure, south of Biarritz, where the town and its neighbours retain a nostalgic charm. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor Story and photographs by Mark Parren Taylor This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). The French city of Biarritz lies on the Bay of Biscay in the Basque region, just 22 miles from the border with Spain. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor A one-time whaling village, in the mid-18th century it gained popularity as a spa, when 'sea-baths' were believed to ease all manner of ailments. A hundred years later, Emperor Napoleon III built a palatial villa (now the Hôtel du Palais) for his Spanish-born consort Eugenie. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor The couple's summertime sojourns made the belle époque-era seaside town popular with European royalty. But crowns and tiaras could not outshine the land's unique Basque heritage, evident in its language, artistic expression and food culture. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor Basque cuisine remains popular to this day, from the traditional bakeries that serve cheesecake-like etxeko bixkotxa or Gâteau Basque to contemporary restaurants like Marloe. Here, chef Eric Martins (above) serves fine pays Basque produce such as Ossau-Iraty cheese, best enjoyed with quince or local Espelette peppers. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor Some of Biarritz's beaches — such as the Plage du Port des Pêcheurs — sit in rocky coves, sheltered from the Atlantic breakers that pummel other parts of the coast, including the town's central Grande Plage. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor - - It makes them popular with novice surfers, who practise here during June and July, when the waves are at their smallest. The more experienced prefer the beaches near the village of Guéthary, known for their big breaks. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor The coast has become a place of pilgrimage for French surfers, but Biarritz and other towns on the Côte Basque witnessed another type of pilgrim centuries before: the Way of St James passes through en route to Spain's Santiago de Compostela. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor Near Biarritz's Halles (market hall), the cafe at Hotel Saint-James has welcomed guests since the 19th century, with devout Christians and seasoned surfers no doubt among them. The town of Bayonne marks the northern extent of the cross-border 'Basque Eurocity'. This urban region embraces France's Côte Basque and Spain's Euskadi coastline around San Sebastián, 30 miles end to end. Bayonne is just five miles inland from Biarritz and is famed for its medieval old town, which sits on a honeycomb of 130 medieval cellars, used by the town's merchants to store their goods. The railway reached Bayonne in 1855, a few years before the line extended to Biarritz. Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie rode the 'iron horse' all the way from Paris to the elegant station here before a real horse and carriage transported them the final leg to their new villa in the dunes. Nowadays, guests might enjoy a simple breakfast of coffee and croissants at the Hôtel du Palais, perhaps not dissimilar to one enjoyed by the imperial couple all those years ago. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
12-05-2025
- National Geographic
8 ways to find calm in Thailand's larger-than-life capital city
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Bangkok may have a reputation as one of the world's biggest concrete jungles, but in between the neon-lit streets, rooftop bars and crowded markets there are some glorious pockets of calm. The city's network of canals help create breathing space among the tuk-tuk packed neighbourhoods, and there's a surprising amount of green space in the city's environs — accessible by boat, bike or on foot. Here are eight of our favourite hideaways. 1. Above Riva One of several plush hotels lining the Chao Phraya River, the Riva Arun is noteworthy for its peaceful, top-floor terrace restaurant, Above Riva. You can ease into the day with breakfast or settle in for sunset cocktails, watching boats crisscross the river. The dinner menu goes big on both Thai and European dishes with a twist — such as duck confit green curry or fettuccine with a tom yum goong (hot and sour Thai soup) sauce. 2. Bang Kachao You'll need to dedicate a little more time — either a half or full day — to visit this artificial island known as Bangkok's 'green lung'. Book a bike tour from the city, which starts with a boat ride before you pedal through 6.2sq miles of mangroves. Tours typically pass through Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and Botanical Garden and past the small villages and markets that dot the canals. At the rooftop bar of the Above Riva hotel, you can ease into the day with breakfast or settle in for sunset cocktails, watching boats crisscross the river. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor 3. Jim Thompson House Museum With its tranquil gardens and canalside setting, the elegant former home of American Jim Thompson, who helped to transform the Thai silk industry, is about as peaceful as it gets. Take a walk through the Thai teakwood buildings to learn about the artefacts, fabrics and art inside, before wandering through the gardens. Leave time for an iced coffee at the cafe afterwards. 4. Bang Prathun coconut community Local farmers still practise traditional coconut harvesting at Bang Prathun in southwest Bangkok, one of the city's last remaining coconut orchards. You can visit independently, but booking a trip with a local guide or as part of a community tour will give you a better understanding of the local way of life and the traditional methods used in the orchards. You'll also have the chance to try fresh coconut products and family recipes. 5. Baan Silapin Also known as Ban Silapin, this centuries-old, traditional Thai-style wooden house and gallery is located in the Thonburi area, right on the canal. It's a fascinating escape from the more contemporary side of the city, where traditional shows are performed using intricate puppets, with plotlines from Thai folklore. Paintings, masks and puppets line the walls and there's a small cafe selling iced coffee and tea to help you cool off. 6. MOCA Bangkok Galleries often offer respite in frantic cities, and MOCA (the Museum of Contemporary Art) Bangkok is a perfect example. It's calm, quiet and cool — quite literally, as the aircon will provide some relief from the sticky city. You're not just here for the atmosphere, of course, but for the five floors of permanent and rotating exhibitions of Thai modern art. While weekday mornings are the quietest, you could combine your trip here with frenetic Chatuchak market, a 10-minute drive away, which is at its liveliest on Saturdays and Sundays. At Suan Somdet Ya (Princess Mother Memorial Park), visitors can learn about Princess Srinagarindra, the mother of Thailand's ninth and longest-serving king, Bhumibol Adulyadej (1946-2016). Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor 7. Suan Somdet Ya Hop on an express boat on the Chao Phraya River and get off at Memorial Bridge Pier. From there it's a short walk to Suan Somdet Ya (Princess Mother Memorial Park), where you can learn about where Princess Srinagarindra grew up. She was the mother of Thailand's ninth and longest-serving king, Bhumibol Adulyadej (1946-2016). Take a wander through the large garden, pause at her statue and then head for lunch at My Grandparent's House, a cafe on the water. 8. Talad Phlu market You'll have your fill of markets and street food in Bangkok, but if you find the noise and chaos a little overstimulating, Talad Phlu in Thonburi is one of the most popular with locals and least hectic (although don't expect silence). There's a big Chinese community and it feels untouched by tourism, with stalls selling cheap dishes made roadside. Seek out crispy pork with rice and khanom buang (Thai crispy pancakes). It's easy to reach on the BTS Skytrain, and great for lunch or dinner. Getting there & around British Airways flies direct from Heathrow to Bangkok several times a week. Thai Airways flies direct from Heathrow to Bangkok twice daily. Other carriers, including Qatar, Emirates and Finnair, offer one-stop flights via their hubs. Average flight time: 11.5h. It's possible to explore certain neighbourhoods in Bangkok on foot, but to get around you'll want to hop in a Grab (similar to Uber), tuk-tuk, the MRT train or the BTS Skytrain. Both train systems are efficient and simple to navigate. You can buy tickets at the station or put money on a prepaid card. There are also commuter boats across the Chao Phraya. When to go Bangkok is a hot and humid city year-round, with temperatures in the high 20Cs up to the high 30Cs. Much of the rain is during September and October and the most humid months are April, May, September and October, but you'll feel the heat no matter when you go. You're best off planning your trip to Bangkok around the rest of your Thailand itinerary. The beach regions of Phuket, Krabi and Koh Lanta, for example, are best from November to March when rain is minimal; for Koh Samui and Koh Phangan, travel March to October. Where to stay 137 Pillars & Suites. Thonglor neighbourhood. From 5,515 THB (£127). More info: Rough Guide to Thailand. £16.99 How to do it: Inside Asia has a five-night Bangkok cultural adventure from £437 per person, including three-star accommodation with breakfast, airport transfers, some private guiding and a full-day solar boat tour of the city's khlongs. Excludes flights. Bangkok can also be included on longer itineraries incorporating Thailand's islands. This story was created with the support of InsideAsia. Published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
23-04-2025
- National Geographic
Inside the Arizona city that's America's final frontier
The city of Tucson, Arizona, sits on America's southern border, surrounded by the cactus-strewn landscapes of the Sonoran Desert. Its present-day creativity draws on its Native American and Mexican roots, Spanish colonial heritage and Wild West frontier days. The Mission San Xavier del Bac dates back to the 1700s and depicts Tucson's Spanish-filled roots. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor Story and photographs by Mark Parren Taylor This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). The Sonoran Desert region has been home to Apache and other Native American peoples for centuries, with Spanish colonialists, Mexico and the US fighting for land here in successive waves. In 1854, Mexico sold 30,000 sq miles of the desert to the US, and the border moved from north of Tucson to 60 miles south of it. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor The desert is the greenest on the planet and sustains two of Arizona's three wine regions. One, Sonoita, is home to the Los Milics Vineyards winery. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor The city, meanwhile, is a canvas for countless street artists, including London-based Fin DAC, whose mural Vergiss adorns the side of Charro Steak & Del Rey restaurant. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor Tucson is home to some of the borderlands' best Mexican cooking. Seis Kitchen does fine breakfast burritos, while Boca serves nopales al pastor tacos — made with grilled prickly pear pads Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor The view through the saguaro cactus thickets along the 2.5 mile-long Bowen Trail — one of several paths through the mountains west of the city — reaches past Tumamoc Hill to downtown Tucson. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor Hidden behind the hill, Sentinel Peak is a basalt mountain, after which the Tohono O'odham people named their original settlement, Cuk Son. At its base, Mission Garden is a living museum that explores the city's history through native flora, as well as plants, shrubs and trees introduced over the centuries from Mexico, Europe and Africa. The garden gets lively at weekends, with workshops, tours and traditional cooking events all taking place. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor In the heart of downtown Tucson, the Hotel Congress has put up visitors since 1919 — including gangster John Dillinger, who was famously captured there by the FBI in 1934. These days the brave can stay in one of four allegedly haunted rooms, if they dare. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor The city's architecture reveals Tucson's varied history, including the Spanish colonial Mission San Xavier del Bac, which dates to the 1700s; the Barrio Viejo's mid-19th century adobes; the 1930s warehouse district, home to much of Tucson's street art; and the contemporary University of Arizona in the north. Beyond the urban skyline, the Santa Catalina Mountains include the highest point in the region, Mount Lemmon (9,170ft), where locals ski in winter and hike in summer amid cool breezes. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor On warm afternoons, some might head back to Mission Garden for a concert. In the frontier days of the 19th century, when Tucson was a stagecoach stop, people looking for entertainment would improvise with 'cigar-box banjos', recalled today by primitive handmade guitars. Photograph by Mark Parren Taylor Published in the April 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only). No Purchase Necessary. Ends 4/30/25 at 11:59pm ET. Click below for Official Rules.
