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Want to see the best of Ireland's River Shannon? Hop on a self-drive boat
Want to see the best of Ireland's River Shannon? Hop on a self-drive boat

National Geographic

time6 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • National Geographic

Want to see the best of Ireland's River Shannon? Hop on a self-drive boat

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). The Irish heartlands put the emerald in the Emerald Isle — and the River Shannon, which flows from County Cavan to County Kerry, is its lifeblood. It takes its name from the Celtic goddess Sinann: legend tells that she lifted the cover of a forbidden well in the Cavan Mountains, causing a flood to burst forth. Her drowned life force ebbed into the river she'd made, creating flower-filled meadows, tousled islands and fertile fields. Cruising has long been a wonderful way to explore the Shannon — the longest river in Ireland — but now there's more reason than ever to try it as the river's boat fleet has been converted to hydro-treated vegetable oil (HVO) fuel, cutting carbon emissions by 92%. And compared to the crowded coast, Ireland's heartlands receive a tiny fraction of the country's visitors. Here, it's less about ticking off a checklist of sights and more about slowing down and drifting along, occasionally pausing at a village pub or millennium-old monastery. And beyond the river itself, the region has national parks to explore. Rambling among their ancient hills will teach you the true meaning of green. Splash out on a room at the Glasson Lakehouse — rooms come with a record player, lots of funky art and some have a lake-view balcony. Photograph by Glasson Lakehouse/Press up Entertainment Day 1: Bridges & water birds Morning The town of Banagher in County Offaly is a popular starting point for self-drive river cruises. Before you set off, get acquainted with the Shannon by taking a dip in the Banagher Outdoor Swimming Pool, opposite the harbour. It was made by cordoning off a section of the river with safety walls and attracts plenty of cheerful swimmers, who make strokes with a view of Banagher Bridge. Once you've dried off, pick up your boat at Banagher Marina and putter north. Before you, the Shannon Callows (floodplains) unfurl in all their emerald majesty. Chestnut-brown cows and donkeys snuffle along the banks; swans ride the river's swell; herons stalk the rushes. More rarely, you might encounter corncrakes, skylarks and sedge warblers. Afternoon There's no mistaking the town of Shannonbridge — its 16-arched namesake straddles the banks, finishing in a fort that lords it over the river like a stone fist. In the early 1800s, the threat of Napoleonic invasion, assisted by pro-independence Irish, weighed heavy on the minds of British colonists. Their response was to build Martello towers around the coast and fortifications all the way up the Shannon, of which Shannonbridge Fort is one of the best examples. Though now three-quarters demolished, it still cuts an imposing silhouette — plus, it has a great cafe. Visit the exhibition on the fort's history, then storm the ramparts — open to visitors this year — and look down on the fort's remains. Evening From Shannonbridge, it'll take around three to four hours to motor up to Lough Ree, where you'll see the golden-hour light shimmering on its surface and dancing over the reeds. If you're lucky, you may spot otters at dusk. Park at the moorings for Glasson Lakehouse, on the lake's southeastern shore. Inside, it's all tufted leather, waxed timber beams and stone fireplaces. At Bonnie's restaurant, Glasson native Dee Adamson crafts seasonal menus that marry Irish ingredients with pan-European flair, including dishes like chargrilled pork belly with onion tuille. Sleep on the boat or splash out on a room here — they come with a record player, lots of funky art and some have a lake-view balcony. Athlone is perhaps most famous as the home of Sean's Bar, Ireland's oldest pub. Photograph by Alamy, Neil McAllister Day 2: Castles & churches Morning Glide back south to Athlone — one of the largest towns in the heartlands and on the Shannon. This is, in many ways, Ireland's crossroads, having witnessed rebellions, sieges and Viking raids. As you walk from the marina, your first sight is of Athlone Castle, built in 1210 and remodelled during the Napoleonic period into the hulking, multi-towered fortification that still stands. Inside, an interactive exhibition describes the town's history. Next door, the Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul is a powerful statement of post-independence Catholicism. For lunch, stop by The Left Bank Bistro: the crowd-pleasing menu includes chunky focaccia sandwiches using local produce. Afternoon The approach to Clonmacnoise from the river is one that catches the breath, as spectral shadows on the horizon resolve into a gutted monastery, twin towers and a scattering of Celtic crosses. This was once one of the most important religious settlements in Europe, founded by Saint Ciarán in around 545 CE. Temple Ciarán, just 10ft wide, is believed to be the saint's resting place, from which pilgrims still take a pinch of earth for luck. Also seek out the 13ft-high Cross of the Scriptures, carved with scenes of Christ's crucifixion and resurrection. It's now housed in the visitor centre, where you'll also find original grave slabs, a video presentation and an exhibition on life on the Callows. Evening Return to Athlone for the nightlife. Fill up first at Thyme, a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant on the banks of the Shannon serving elevated Irish cuisine in a swish, herb-coloured dining room. Afterwards, head next door to the Dead Centre microbrewery to sample its IPAs, stouts and ales. Athlone is perhaps most famous as the home of Sean's Bar — officially the oldest pub in Ireland, dating to 900 CE. A section of the original wattle-and-daub wall is still visible, next to the Guinness World Record certificate. Grab an Irish coffee — laced with the bar's own Sean's Whiskey — and if there's live music, nod along to the thrum of fiddle and bodhrán (drum). The River Shannon, which flows from County Cavan to County Kerry, gets its name from the Celtic goddess Sinann. Legend tells that she lifted the cover of a forbidden well in the Cavan Mountains, causing a flood to burst forth. Photograph by Getty Images, Andrea Pistolesi Go further the Upper Shannon Carrick-on-Shannon The Shannon's northern reaches show a different side to the river: narrower, curvier and dotted with islands. Boat trips here often start at Carrick-on-Shannon, the largest town in County Leitrim. Pick up urban walking trail guides at the tourist information centre and explore its architectural curiosities: the Italianate-Gothic fusion of Hatley Manor, the pastel facades and vibrant doors of St George's Terrace. Most curious of all is the 12ft-wide Costello Memorial Chapel — Ireland's smallest church. Businessman Edward Costello built it in 1879 in memory of his wife, Mary Josephine. Next door is the multi-award-winning Flynn's Bar, where bartenders pull pints of Guinness as smooth as the Shannon. Lough Key Meandering north west from Carrick-on-Shannon, you'll glide past bobbing cormorants and the indigo smudge of Sliabh an Iarainn (Iron Mountain). Once you've squeezed through Clarendon Lock, the trees part onto the silvery mirror of Lough Key, where you'll meet McDermott's Castle. Tie up at the jetty for the Lough Key Forest Park — formerly the Rockingham Estate, owned by the aristocratic King family. The Rockingham Remembered self-guided tour leads you through the bowels of the old house, which burned down in 1957. There's also a tree canopy walk, and the Moylurg Tower, resembling a Brutalist headstone, has a fantastic view of the lough and its islands — if you can scale its 160 steps, that is. Boyle South west of Lough Key, slip into a narrow, hedgerow-hemmed canal running parallel to the Boyle River, which ends in a marina. From there, it's a short walk to the market town of Boyle. If you can, time your visit with the Courtyard Farmers' Market, open on Saturdays — you'll find locally made Leitrim Hill Creamery cheeses, Pyne's preserves from County Sligo, handmade jewellery and watercolour paintings. Otherwise, drop into King House, a restored Georgian mansion. Inside is a collection of Irish paintings and sculptures, plus international pieces donated by former Irish president Mary McAleese. Afterwards, wander up to Boyle Abbey, a 12th-century Cistercian monastery with carvings of monks and animals in its upper reaches. Aer Lingus flies direct from several UK airports to Dublin, from where it's a 1h30m train ride to Athlone or a 2h30m bus ride to Banagher. Or catch the ferry to Dublin from Holyhead, Wales. Carrickcraft offers three nights' boat hire from £410 for a 'Tyrone class' boat sleeping up to three people. Stay at Glasson Lakehouse from £196, B&B. Or try the Landmark Hotel in Carrick-on-Shannon, from £92, B&B. This story was created with the support of Tourism Ireland. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).

Mangia! Hamilton is a hotbed for Italian eateries
Mangia! Hamilton is a hotbed for Italian eateries

Hamilton Spectator

time30-04-2025

  • General
  • Hamilton Spectator

Mangia! Hamilton is a hotbed for Italian eateries

In a recent discussion with Scott Radley (writer and podcast host for the new Hamilton Spectator podcast, Placeline Hamilton) and Diane Galambos (fellow food writer @kitchenblissca), we were speaking about what food is synonymous with Hamilton and this discussion led to a chat about Hamilton-area Italian joints. Any Hamiltonian can agree that we are spoiled for choice when it comes to delicious Italian food in the city — from classy high-end spots to casual pizza eateries and everything in between. Of course, there's no way I could feature all of my favourites within the city — I have a lot! — but I tried to gather a roundup of spots from a wide spectrum. Martello's Sugo Sundays Pepperoni Pizza Martello Restaurant is one of the newer, trendier Italian spots on James Street North, and actually is one of the restaurants I tend to mention when people ask me, 'What are your favourite spots in Hamilton?' Though you can't go wrong with their regular menu, and brunch menu — hello brunch pizza! — I especially love their Sugo Sundays. Their Sugo Sundays feature special dishes that are an ode to the classic Italian tomato sauce, with a variety of dishes like spaghetti and meatballs, cup and char pepperoni pizza and chicken parm. They also have a great backyard patio for the warmer days. Martello's Sugo Sundays interior. Their Sugo Sundays feature special dishes that are an ode to the classic Italian tomato sauce. When I first tried Famiglia Ristorante back in 2023, I wanted to love it, but I was not totally won over by their food. I'm happy to say — especially considering that I live so close by — that I recently tried them again and it really did blow me away. The service in this neighbourhood spot in Ancaster is warm and lovely, and the food is divine from the pasta, to the wood-fired pizzas. I highly recommend their namesake Famiglia pizza topped with figs, prosciutto, Asiago, mascarpone, honey truffle oil and crushed pistachio. I'll be back again soon to try their breaded veal panini to go! Ciao Bella is one of the newest spots in Hamilton, one that would be great for a business lunch or perhaps to impress a date. The atmosphere and decor of this place is absolutely spectacular, from their cloud-esque colour-changing ceiling to the faux greenery and trees throughout the seating area. While there, be sure to try their Bella meatballs with San Marzano tomato sauce and perhaps an interesting cocktail — or two! Some items from Martello's brunch menu. They also have a great backyard patio for the warmer days. Roma Bakery was, of course, one of the spots mentioned in the discussion on the Placeline Hamilton podcast. I suggested that Roma Pizza was one of the most famous foods of Hamilton; a party isn't a party without a Roma pizza after all, am I right? Since 1952, Roma has been serving the Hamilton community with their famous bread slab pizza, topped with a seasoned tomato sauce, and no cheese and often no toppings. For those who visit the bakery/deli, they actually have a wide range that extends beyond their famous pizza with baked goods, sausages, pastas and more. The real question I pose to readers is: Do you eat their pizza hot or cold? Valentino's Restaurant has been serving the Westdale community since its inception in 1978, and in recent years expanded to a popular East Mountain location. Whether you find yourself down in the Westdale Village, or up on the Stoney Creek mountain, you can expect that the delicious eats of Valentino's are right around the corner. Valentino's has been serving the Westdale community since its inception in 1978, and in recent years expanded to a popular East Mountain location. First known for their panzerottis, Valentino's serves up a variety of Italian classics like soups, salads, pastas and pizzas with made-in-house sauces. I have never had a bad dish here, so you can not go wrong with anything on their menu. If craft beer is your thing, be sure to try theirs! They are also a craft brewery and have been brewing their own since 2012. CIMA Enoteca's interior. The high-end modern and bright space pairs well with the trendy Locke Street neighbourhood. CIMA Enoteca is another great date spot, celebration spot, or perhaps business lunch spot. The high-end modern and bright space pairs well with the trendy Locke Street neighbourhood. For food, they have everything from wood-fired pizza (you will see their fancy pizza oven in their open concept kitchen), pastas, charcuterie, salads, sandwiches and more. The team at CIMA also tends to get creative with Italian dishes — I believe this was the first place I tried a squid ink pasta years ago! Stay tuned to their specials to find out what creative offerings they are whipping up next. I have yet to check out their second location, but they have also expanded to Burlington. Cheese Ravioli with Meatballs at Bronzie's Place. Truly a neighbourhood spot, if you are not already in the know about Bronzie's Place, it's possible to overlook it. This spot on James Street South is partially in a basement unit, and might not look like much from the outside, but inside you will find warm service and hearty portions of traditional Italian dishes like pizzas, pastas and chicken/veal parmesans. The prices are already inexpensive, but visit their website for all the details on daily specials and deals! They do tend to be busy and are a small spot, so be sure to call ahead to confirm your space before you visit them for a meal. I wish I could include more in this roundup, but just adding a short shout-out to San Remo Ristorante , Red Door Cucina , Cavallo Nero , and Alfredo's Pizza . I am sure there are many more I missed in Hamilton, we truly are the spot to go for delicious Italian eats.

Portland man wanted in Washington state arrested after Clackamas County standoff
Portland man wanted in Washington state arrested after Clackamas County standoff

Yahoo

time12-04-2025

  • Yahoo

Portland man wanted in Washington state arrested after Clackamas County standoff

PORTLAND, Ore. (KOIN) — A Portland man wanted on an active warrant in Washington state was arrested after a nearly five hours long standoff in unincorporated Clackamas County, according to authorities. Taylor David Martello was taken to Clackamas County Jail on charges of violation of restraining order, possession of a stolen vehicle, and first-degree criminal trespass in Clackamas County, in addition to the warrant charges he faces in Washington state. Deputies with the Clackamas County Sheriff's Office responded to a trespass report at a home on Southeast Aldercrest Road in unincorporated Clackamas County just after 12 p.m. on Friday after a caller said the house was vacant and no one was supposed to be there, according to officials. 3 cases of rare brain disease reported in Hood River County; 2 reported dead Officials said the caller also believed the person inside the home was also a relative who the caller said may have had a warrant out for his arrest. When deputies arrived at the home, they spotted a stolen 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe in front of the residence and were able to identify the man inside as 38-year-old Martello, according to CCSO. Martello allegedly refused to leave the house, and deputies called in the Clackamas County Interagency SWAT and Crisis Negotiations Team to help contain the situation just after 2 p.m., authorities said. Close Thanks for signing up! Watch for us in your inbox. Subscribe Now Eventually, a member of the crisis negotiation team got Mortello to surrender, and Mortello was taken into custody around 4:45 p.m. Friday. No injuries were reported during the standoff. Officials say the charges Mortello faces in Washington include escape from community custody, second-degree assault and strangulation. Anyone else with information about the incident is asked to contact the Clackamas County Sheriff's Office. Copyright 2025 Nexstar Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.

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