14 hours ago
Dublin like a local
A young, creative, international city has emerged from the financial crisis that stopped Dublin in its tracks for the best part of a decade. The warehouses of the Irish capital have been repurposed by international tech companies for their European headquarters, the docks and quays are lined with buildings of glass and steel, and there are new hotels, coffee shops and bars.
It is still unmistakably Dublin — with its beautiful Georgian terraces, manicured garden squares, stunning coastal walks and villages that make up some of the prettiest suburbs of any capital city. But now its cobbled streets hum with fresh purpose.
I grew up on Ireland's west coast and, after a spell in London, moved to Dublin a decade ago to cover Irish business news and then political and general news for Reuters. The economic catastrophe that befell Dublin after the 2008 financial crisis is a cautionary tale of the dangers of unfettered lending and poor regulation. But reinvented as a modern, cosmopolitan capital that values its people and history, today's Dublin is simply marvellous. Here's how to enjoy this beautifully unruly city like a local:
Pubs: Dublin's pubs are essential to the city's cultural and social fabric. They are where friends catch up, colleagues bond after work, and couples meet for dates. Some are loud and busy, others perfect for sitting alone with your thoughts or a book. My favourite is Martin B. Slattery's in the vibrant, eclectic suburb of Rathmines. A wood-paneled pub — that like most classic Dublin watering holes still refuses to serve food — 'Slatts' has a snug at the front, the patrons love to chat, and the Guinness is exceptional. In town, there's the Long Hall, a stone's throw from Dublin Castle, with red-and-white striped canopies. Inside, it's largely unchanged since it opened in 1881.
Another Victorian classic is the Palace on Fleet Street. Flowers cascade from hanging baskets outside and an antique lamppost marks the entrance. It is one of the oldest pubs in the city, and a favourite of students from nearby Trinity College and tourists stopping for a pint as they amble towards Temple Bar. It has a strong literary heritage, with poet Patrick Kavanagh and novelist Flann O'Brien among its former patrons.
If you're looking for something quirkier, make your way over to the Hacienda on Mary Street, popular with celebrity musicians winding down after a show. Behind its Spanish colonial exterior, it always looks closed — which it is to most people, unless proprietor Shay likes the look of you. He never opens before 8 p.m., but if you think you're the type of punter that Shay will welcome, then press a buzzer at the door marked 'Bar' and wait to see if he'll let you in.
The traditional 'session': The Cobblestone in Smithfield is the stand-out choice for quality traditional Irish music. Tucked into a quiet corner of a square that was once known for its bustling livestock market, it is described by its owner as a "drinking pub with a music problem." There is a "seisiún" of traditional Irish music every night — an informal performance by seasoned musicians who gather to play for fun. You will want to get in early to grab a stool by the bar, so you can see the performers in the corner.
O'Donoghue's on Merrion Row is a music pub steeped in history and was a favourite of The Dubliners, a traditional folk music group that sold more than thirty million records. The walls are adorned by photos and drawings of the Irish music legends who have played here over the years, and there are music sessions every night.
Whelan's on Wexford Street is a must for live music. Major artists that have passed through its doors include the Arctic Monkeys, Damien Rice, Mumford & Sons, and Ed Sheeran, who calls Whelan's one of his favourite venues in the world.
To eat: In the years since the financial crisis, Irish food has undergone a significant evolution, moving beyond traditional stereotypes into a modern and innovative culinary culture. Chapter One, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, and Liath each have two Michelin stars, and there are five more restaurants with one star.
International influences have flourished, creating exciting culinary fusions derived from Asian, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines. Traditional dishes such as Irish stew, soda bread and Dublin Coddle can still be found at places like the Quays Restaurant in Temple Bar, but my go-tos are the caipirinhas and petiscos at Rei Momo in the centre of town, or the authentic tacos, quesadillas and tamalitos at Suertudo in Ranelagh.
The definitive read: In a city seeped in literature, one book dominates: James Joyce's 'Ulysses.' The modernist classic is an intricate portrait of the city on a single day, June 16, 1904 — and the characters' steps are retraced by thousands every year on Bloomsday.
A good place to start is the Joyce Tower Museum, on the coast at Sandycove and housed in a Martello tower, a round stone fort built in the early 19th century to defend against a Napoleonic invasion. The tower is the setting for the opening chapter of "Ulysses," where Stephen Dedalus wakes up and begins his day. Joyce himself stayed here briefly in 1904.
For the real enthusiast, consider a reading at Sweny's Chemist and Druggist, where you'll be transported into a living page of "Ulysses". A charming, time-capsule of a shop, it is located at 1 Lincoln Place, a short walk from Trinity College.
More literary trails: Dublin revels in its literary heritage. Three of the four newest bridges have been named after writers, and you can't turn a corner in Dublin without bumping into a plaque or statue devoted to a writer or poet. The city has been an inspiration for numerous authors, so no visit is complete without a literary tour. Start at Merrion Square, where Oscar Wilde's sculpture cuts a colourful figure lounging on a rock overlooking his family home across the street. "Dracula' writer Bram Stoker lived at the nearby 30 Kildare Street for a time with his wife, Florence.
But perhaps the most impressive place on any literary tour of Dublin is Trinity College, home to the Long Room, a 65-metre (213-ft)-long chamber in its library that contains 200,000 of the university's oldest books (currently under restoration). The Book of Kells, a precious ninth century manuscript containing the four gospels of the New Testament, is on permanent display. Swift, Wilde, Beckett, Stoker, and Synge studied here. More recently, it served as a backdrop and symbol of class and identity in Sally Rooney's 'Normal People.' If you're looking for literary Dublin, this is where you'll find it.
Getting away: The sea matters to Dubliners. Joyce's characters in "Ulysses" are forever walking, haunted, by the shore. The first Dubliners were Viking raiders who came from across the sea and commandeered a sheltered pool on the Liffey for a winter camp to repair their longboats ahead of the spring pillaging. When Dubliners want to shake off the cobwebs, they head to the coast.
Dublin's coastal towns and villages are some of the prettiest suburbs of any capital city and stretch from Howth in the north to Dalkey and Killiney Hill in the south, where U2's Bono and the Edge are neighbours. There are lovely coastal walks and breath-taking views in both directions, all easily reached on the local train, with fares starting at 2.60 euros ($3) for a single adult ticket.
To really do Dublin like a Dubliner, the day should start with a bracing swim at Sandycove's "Forty Foot." Imagine a rocky outcrop into the Irish Sea, with waves crashing on concrete steps and brave souls in swimming togs gasping as they dive into the chilly waters. Few urban experiences are as invigorating, and when you emerge, you'll be more than ready to think about the lunch you're going to have in Howth.
Located on the north side of Dublin Bay, perched on a rugged peninsula, Howth is a postcard-pretty fishing village you can amble around while picking up fish and chips and maybe an ice cream. I could happily eat every day at any one of the many fantastic restaurants in Howth, but if you like a view with your oysters or mussels, pick Aqua, a beautiful restaurant housed in a former sailing club at the end of the west pier.
CITY MEMO DATA POINTS
Population: 1.4 million
Price of a cup of coffee: 5.10 euros ($5.85) for a cappuccino from Bewley's Café on Grafton Street.
Price of a pint of beer: 6.80 euros ($7.80) for a pint of Guinness from Martin B. Slattery's.
Great place to see a sunset: The Pavilion, a student bar overlooking the cricket pitch at Trinity College.
Best bookstore: Hodges Figgis, a 257-year-old bookseller on Dawson Street.
