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What do the pope and this Miami chef have in common? Love for Peru.
What do the pope and this Miami chef have in common? Love for Peru.

Axios

time16-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Axios

What do the pope and this Miami chef have in common? Love for Peru.

If you didn't already believe that eating at Maty's was a religious experience, get this: Chef Valerie Chang Cumpa hails from the same Peruvian town where Pope Leo XIV served as bishop. Catch up quick: The Chinese-Peruvian chef — a member of the award-winning Chang family that ran Itamae together — grew up in Chiclayo, Peru, before moving to Miami at age 10. Pope Leo, a naturalized Peruvian citizen, served as bishop of Chiclayo until 2023. His ascendance to the papacy has brought newfound attention to the Peruvian community there. One restaurant, Las Americas, has a sign outside its door that reads: "The pope ate here." "In Chiclayo, we're very proud of our food," Chang Cumpa tells Axios. What they're saying: Chang Cumpa says she had her first communion in Chiclayo's main cathedral, where Pope Leo has held Mass. Some of her family members have met him before. Chang Cumpa was on her way to work last week as she listened to the newly elected pope's first public address. When the pope switched from Italian to Spanish to send a message to his Peruvian diocese, she was beside herself. "I honestly thought he was going to speak in English. When he said that about Chiclayo, I couldn't believe it. How beautiful. My home town." The big picture: Chang Cumpa, a James Beard Award-winning chef, celebrates her family's roots at Maty's, her Peruvian restaurant in Midtown named after her late grandmother. One of the many family photos that hang on the wall — of her great-grandparents' wedding — is from 1928. "It's beyond the food. It's a love letter to thank my grandma for everything she did," Chang Cumpa said in a recent episode of Toast web series " Signature Dish." State of play: Chang Cumpa tells Axios that Miami's diversity has propelled the 305 into the culinary capital it is today. In her own family, Chang Cumpa says she doesn't take the awards or recognition for granted. Her brother is Michelin-star chef Nando Chang of Itamae Ao, and their father, Fernando "Papa" Chang, heads up B-Side at 1-800-Lucky. "We're still immigrants. We still have that immigrant fight and that desire to do right by our parents, who did a lot of fighting." Zoom in: On the Toast show, Chang Cumpa says the most popular dish at Maty's is the scallop cebiche — a savory seafood dome covered with sliced grapes and topped with cilantro leche de tigre. "Basically every table that comes in to eat orders one of these," Chang Cumpa tells host Sophia Roe. Chef's recs: Here are chef Valerie's favorite Peruvian restaurants in Miami (that are not owned by her family).

This tiny Miami restaurant led by a beloved local chef just won a Michelin star
This tiny Miami restaurant led by a beloved local chef just won a Michelin star

Miami Herald

time18-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Miami Herald

This tiny Miami restaurant led by a beloved local chef just won a Michelin star

Another Miami restaurant has earned a Michelin star, this time for a local culinary hero. Itamae Ao, a 10-seat counter in Midtown, was awarded a star by the Michelin Guide, which reviews and rates restaurants from around the world, Thursday night at the Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney World Resort. The honor brings to 15 the number of Michelin-starred restaurants in and around Miami, which first joined the internationally famous Michelin Guide in 2022. Since then, the following Miami restaurants have earned stars: Ariete; Boia De; Cote; Elcielo; EntreNos; Hiden; Le Jardinier; Los Felix; Ogawa; Shingo; Stubborn Seed; Tambourine Room by Tristan Brandt; The Surf Club Restaurant; and L'Atelier du Joël Robuchon, which was the first Florida restaurant to receive a two-star rating. Led by chef Nando Chang, who has also been nominated for a James Beard Award this year, Itamae Ao serves the Peruvian-Japanese fusion Chang and his family have long been known for in Miami. The restaurant, which opened in May 2024, started its life in 2018 as Itamae at local food hall MIA Market (then St. Roch Market) in Miami's Design District, with Nando Chang working with his sister Val and father Fernando. The restaurant eventually moved on to its own space across the Palm Court, with most tables outdoors in the courtyard and a smaller counter indoors, then to its current location as part of Maty's, Val Chang's Peruvian restaurant (which on the Michelin Guide as Recommended). Nando Chang is in the middle of a month-long residency reviving the original Itamae at Maty's and, should he win the James Beard Award for Best Chef: South, will be following in his sister's footsteps: Val Chang won the same award last year. Other newly starred Florida restaurants Four other restaurants in Florida earned Michelin stars, including Sorekara in Orlando, which serves Japanese cuisine. Sorekara, under the helm of chef/owner William Shen, earned two stars, making it the second two-starred restaurant in the state. Chef Ryan Ratino, who is known for his two-star restaurant Jônt and one-star restaurant Bresca in Washington, D.C., now has two spots on Florida's guide. His Chef's Counter at MAASS in the Four Seasons Hotel and Residences, which serves contemporary cuisine via a tasting menu, earned the first Michelin star for Fort Lauderdale. Ratino is also the force behind Ômo by Jônt in Winter Park, which earned a star on Thursday. The first Michelin starred spot in Palm Beach is Konro in West Palm Beach, which also serves a tasting menu of contemporary cuisine. No starred restaurants in Florida lost their stars this time around. Other Miami Michelin honors Two Miami starred restaurants were also awarded green stars this year, which are given to restaurants that demonstrate outstanding commitment to sustainable gastronomy and have a strong environmental focus. Chef Jeremy Ford's Stubbon Seed in Miami Beach won a green star for using ingredients sourced from the chef's 5.5 acre farm in Homestead, a composting program and a partnership with the community program Compost for Life and initiatives to reduce the carbon footprint of the restaurant. EntreNos from chefs Evan Burgess and Osmel Gonzalez, who operate out of the Tinta y Cafe in Miami Shores, earned a green star for locally sourced produce and land-based protein; sustainably sourced seafood; dinnerware made by a Miami-based artisan, its organic and biodynamic wine program and the fact they repurpose food waste into vinegars and sauces. Jacqueline Pirolo of Macchialina on Miami Beach earned the Michelin Sommelier Award, while Juan Camilo Liscano of Palma in Miami won the Michelin Young Chef Award. Affordable honors Two local restaurants originally designated as Bib Gourmands — a title that indicates quality food at a great value — lost their designation Thursday: the Aegean restaurant Doya and Zak the Baker in Wynwood. Zak the Baker remains on the Michelin Recommended list, which was released for Miami earlier this year. No new Bib Gourmands were added in Miami, but Fort Lauderdale earned its first Bib Gourmand via Heritage, the pizza-and-pasta spot from chef/owner Rino Cerbone. There were a couple of Palm Beach restaurants added to the Bib Gourmand list, too: aioli and Palm Beach Meats, both from West Palm Beach. Four Orlando restaurants were added, too: Coro, Banh Mi Boy, Smokemade Meats + Eats and UniGirl. Florida has 36 Bib Gourmand-designated restaurants. The Miami Bib Gourmand restaurants are Bachour; Chug's Diner; El Turco; Ghee Indian Kitchen; Hometown Barbecue; La Natural; Lucali; Mandorin Aegean Bistro; Michael's Genuine; Phuc Yeah; Sanguich de Miami; Tam Tam; Tinta y Cafe; and Zitz Sum.

Which South Florida restaurants will earn Michelin stars this week? Here are our picks
Which South Florida restaurants will earn Michelin stars this week? Here are our picks

Miami Herald

time14-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Miami Herald

Which South Florida restaurants will earn Michelin stars this week? Here are our picks

Michelin stars are coming to South Florida this week — and this time, it's not just Miami restaurants that might benefit. The internationally famous Michelin Guide will be announcing its 2025 annual star additions in Florida on April 17, but this year it's not only highlighting the best restaurants in Miami, Orlando and Tampa as it has for the past three years. Restaurants in those cities will be considered, but this year, restaurants in Fort Lauderdale, the Palm Beaches and Clearwater/St. Petersburg will also be in the mix. Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, said the booming South Florida restaurant scene deserved a closer look. 'Florida continues to raise the bar with its emerging culinary talent, international influences and the palpable passion of its local restaurant communities,' he said in a statement last year. 'Over the past three years, we've seen the Florida selection grow and strengthen as our Inspectors shined a spotlight on their discoveries. We look forward to exploring these new destinations and highlighting the excellence of their local restaurant scene.' At this point, Florida has no three-star restaurants and only one two-star restaurant, the glamorous French spot L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Miami's Design District. Miami's single-star restaurants are: Ariete, Boia De, Cote, Elcielo, EntreNos, Hiden, Le Jardinier, Los Felix, Ogawa, Shingo, The Surf Club Restaurant, Stubborn Seed and The Tambourine Room by Tristan Brandt. Considering the sheer number of restaurants that have opened in the past year, the Miami area could easily see another spot get a star. Whether Fort Lauderdale and Palm Beach restaurants will be recognized is hard to say: In its first year of Michelin consideration, no Tampa restaurant earned a star, though now five restaurants in the city have them (Orlando has seven). There are a few things that make handicapping the winners slightly easier. Michelin added 10 Miami restaurants to its recommended list earlier in the year, and some of those could be rewarded with a star. And though nothing is guaranteed, the guide also seems to have an affinity for omakase-style experiences and tasting menus and look kindly upon chefs whose sister restaurants already have stars. Also on April 17, Michelin will also choose the 2025 Bib Gourmands, restaurants that offer good food at a reasonable price. At the moment, Miami has 18 Bib Gourmands: Bachour, Chug's Diner, Doya, El Turco, Ghee Indian Kitchen, Hometown Barbecue, Jaguar Sun, La Natural, Lucali, Mandolin, Michael's Genuine, Phuc Yea, Rosie's, Sanguich de Miami, Tam Tam, Tinta y Cafe, Zak the Baker and Zitz Sum. Miami Itamae Ao: Is this Chef Nando Chang's year? He's already up for a James Beard Award for Best Chef: South, a year after his sister Val Chang won with her Peruvian restaurant Maty's. This omakase spot is tucked away in the back Maty's in Midtown. Naoe: We are just going to assume Michelin has never been to this hidden sushi counter on Brickell Key (although it makes the Forbes Five-Star list every year). Because why has it been ignored so far? Recoveco: This South Miami restaurant with a small but creative menu from husband-and-wife team Nicolas Martinez and Maria Teresa Gallina made the list of Michelin-recommended restaurants earlier this year. Palma: Chef Juan Camilo Liscano's small restaurant near Little Havana offers an ever-changing tasting menu and, like Recoveco, made the Michelin recommended list earlier this year. Sereira: This elegant Portuguese restaurant from internationally famous chef Henrique Sá Pessoa, who has a two-starred restaurant in Lisbon, was too new for consideration in 2024. Michelin has had time to examine it closely now. Sunny's Steakhouse: In the end, it won't matter if everybody's favorite Miami steakhouse doesn't earn a star, because it's so good it's going to be impossible to get a reservation there anyway. But the hype is real, and Sunny's needs to be in the conversation. Fort Lauderdale Daniel's, a Florida steakhouse: From the team behind Coral Gables' Fiola, this downtown steakhouse works hard to source as much as possible from Florida and brings a sophisticated Miami vibe to the heart of Broward County. The Katherine: Chef Timon Balloo's eclectic restaurant is one of the best restaurants in Broward, and we'd love to see his hard work and creativity rewarded. MAASS: This restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel & Residences comes from chef Ryan Ratino, the force behind the one-starred Bresca and two-starred Jont, both in Washington, D.C., so it's got a pedigree that makes it a possible. Palm Beaches We confess we haven't spent a lot of time eating in Palm Beach County for obvious reasons — we can barely keep up with everything opening in Miami — but here are a few spots to keep an eye on. Buccan: Chef Clay Conley draws raves for his upscale American cuisine in Palm Beach, both here and his restaurant Grato (which could be another contender). Cafe Boulud: Chef Daniel Boulud's restaurant Daniel in New York already boasts a Michelin star, which makes a star at this French spot in Palm Beach a possibility. Moody Tongue: This omakase-style restaurant at the Hilton West Palm Beach has a sister with a star in Chicago, so it could be a contender.

This celebrated Miami chef could win the award his sister won last year
This celebrated Miami chef could win the award his sister won last year

Miami Herald

time02-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Miami Herald

This celebrated Miami chef could win the award his sister won last year

A downtown aperitivo bar and a Peruvian-born chef in Miami have been named James Beard Award nominees. The James Beard Foundation has announced its 2025 Restaurant and Chef Award nominees, and Chef Nando Chang of Itamae Ao has been nominated in the Best Chef: South category. It's the same category his sister Val Chang won in 2024 for her Peruvian restaurant Maty's in Midtown Miami; Itamae Ao is an intimate omakase counter in the back of the restaurant. Also nominated in the Best New Bar category is the aperitivo spot ViceVersa, which opened last summer and is known for its aperitivos and pizzas. In January, the Beard Foundation's semifinalists included Ghee Indian Kitchen in the Outstanding Restaurant category and Café La Trova for Outstanding Bar. Neither made the nominee list. The only Florida restaurant nominated is Ômo by Jônt in Winter Park, which was nominated in the Best New Restaurant category. Winners will be announced June 16 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago. An Itamae takeover of Maty's Chang, who started the first Itamae restaurant with his sister Val and father Fernando, told the Miami Herald in January that he was thrilled to be nominated, though he wasn't sure a member of his family could win two years in a row. 'I feel like my peers respect the work, and that makes me happy,' he said. 'I'm starting to feel part of the change Miami is going through, and that's all my dad ever wanted, that we live out our dreams.' Starting April 10, Chang will be temporarily taking over the Maty's space, bringing the original Itamae concept back for about a month. The residency, as they're calling it, will offer some original Itamae favorites, including smoked and grilled fish collars and various makis and nigiris. Itamae Ao will remain open, offering its usual tasting menu Thursday through Saturday, while Itamae will serve dinner from 5-10 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and noon to 6 p.m. on Sunday. Itamae Ao was also added to the 2025 Michelin Guide, along with five other area restaurants, in January.

Here are the 2025 James Beard Award finalists for Miami
Here are the 2025 James Beard Award finalists for Miami

Axios

time02-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Axios

Here are the 2025 James Beard Award finalists for Miami

A Miami chef and bar were named James Beard Award finalists Wednesday for the foundation's 2025 Restaurant and Chef Awards. Why it matters: The Beards are like the Oscars of the bar and restaurant world, and even if you don't win, making the final cut is a big achievement. This year, Miami earned six semifinalist nominations. What's new: Three new categories center around cocktails and other beverages: Best New Bar, Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service, and Outstanding Professional in Cocktail Service. Our finalists: ViceVersa, a downtown Italian Aperitivo bar from the team behind the now-closed Jaguar Sun, is a finalist for Best New Bar. Flashback: Last year, Chang's sister, Valerie Chang of Maty's, another Midtown favorite, won in the same category.

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