Latest news with #MaxMara
Vogue
07-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Vogue
Max Mara Atelier Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Laura Lusuardi, Max Mara's Fashion Coordinator, has been at the company for just over 60 years, and during that time I'd wager she's forgotten more about the business of beautiful clothing than most of us will ever learn. Since 2009 she has overseen Atelier, a hyper-rarified Max Mara capsule that exists outside the central MaxMara remit, first established by founder Achille Maramotti, to create luxurious womenswear on an industrial scale with a hand-tailored quality. While very much about handicraft, Atelier is not about scale: instead it is a forum for Lusuardi and her team to R&D experimental forms of the garment that has defined Max Mara since day one, the coat. This season, the collection was presented adjacent to Max Mara mainline's Naples-based resort show by Ian Griffiths. This seemed a pragmatic way to put these made-to-order samples in the line of sight of some of the house's core clients. Lusuardi greeted us next to a moodboard inhabited by photographs of Diana Vreeland, Maria Callas, and Jackie Kennedy, who the designer all identified as 'radical women.' Kennedy was photographed wearing a swim-cap while vacationing in Capri, and the set-up of the coated mannequins reflected that: each one wore ornately modern-looking (yet vintage), gorgeous mid-century swim-caps. The range of garments beneath them suggested that 'radical' was in this instance meant as a synonym of 'individualistic': the collection broadly saw classical couture shapes from the 1950s and 1960s, as well as 1980s silhouettes, processed through a lushly minimalist filter, and then—quite surprisingly—seasoned with a soupcon of grunginess that was telegraphed by a Kurt Cobain cameo. Fabrics included double-faced cashmere, boiled and treated wool, zibeline-effect cashmere and delicately weathered leather. My absolute favorite was an oversized knee-length coat in a green-touched wool cashmere mix (I think) whose structural seaming and cinches were drawn from a type 3 denim jacket. An oversized hoodie-coat in washed cashmere had that zibeline-shagginess to the touch yet retained much more defined lines than its jersey prototype. A long black coat was patterned in a gold check jacquard to reflect the design of Cobain's shirt and inject a spirit of nonconformism into this rarified worn milieu. A paneled piped and dyed shearling jacket and a slouchy short leather jacket were both minor masterpieces. Said Lusuardi: 'These coats are not for wearing to church. They are for wearing every day, with your own style, customized and personal.'
Tatler Asia
06-07-2025
- Business
- Tatler Asia
Domestic Quiet Luxury brand: What is market language if not your own voice?
Ideal and reality Above Loro Piana Spring/Summer 2025 Collection promotional campaign (photo: Loro Piana) Quiet Luxury, despite its discreet facade, is a commanding yet unspoken expression of the elite. Eschewing loud logos or bold hues, it appeals through exceptional fabrics, clean silhouettes, pure minimalism and a near-bespoke feel. It is the kind of luxury discernible only to those beyond the need to declare status. These are the individuals who walk into a grand occasion in a look that bears no overt branding, yet every detail emanates quiet confidence and refinement. Read more: Icon of Icons: LOEWE Puzzle Bag Above CHANEL Spring/Summer 2025 Collection promotional campaign (photo: CHANEL) Yet within the context of the Vietnamese market, quiet luxury remains a distant concept. Here, luxury is not merely a coat or handbag, but a social signifier. A CHANEL bag, a Max Mara coat, a pair of Bottega Veneta shoes, they serve as declarations of class, influence and standing. For many Vietnamese fashion lovers, the logo continues to be the most legible language in the high-end fashion space. Above Max Mara Spring/Summer 2024 Collection promotional campaign (photo: Max Mara) According to a report by FiinGroup, Vietnam's fashion market is projected to reach $3.5 billion by 2025, with an annual growth rate of 9–10 per cent. This reflects a healthy momentum for local fashion. Over 200 international brands, ranging from mid-tier to luxury, currently operate in key cities. Domestic labels are not only contending with peers in their segment, but also with global powerhouses. Above Bottega Veneta Spring/Summer 2025 Collection promotional campaign (photo: Bottega Veneta) Although Vietnam has many wealthy yet discreet high-end customers, the segment that truly understands and is willing to invest in quiet luxury remains too narrow to sustain a purely minimalist luxury brand. This presents a considerable challenge for any designer pursuing this path within the country. The power of storytelling In the fertile landscape of quiet luxury, Vietnam holds rich creative promise, with names that have made a mark both at home and abroad. Among them are Nguyen Cong Tri, revered as the 'big brother' of Vietnamese fashion, for his aesthetic and artisanal design language; Lam Gia Khang, whose minimalist sensibility blends East–West inspirations; and Cuong Dam, with a philosophy grounded in 'minimalism for maximalism'. These designers entered the scene with a bold, singular vision: no logos, no gimmicks, no visual flamboyance—just premium materials, refined tailoring and a neutral palette infused with European elegance. Above Singer Ho Ngoc Ha wears designs by DANGHAIYEN (photo: DANGHAIYEN) With prices starting from VND8 million per piece, quiet luxury brands do not seek mass appeal. They cater to an affluent, discerning clientele who favour understatement. Yet those very strengths become fragile when tested in the realities of the market. Above Singers Bich Phuong, Huong Giang and Co Em Trendy wear minimalist designs by DANGHAIYEN (photo: DANGHAIYEN) DANGHAIYEN offers a cautionary tale. Its decline stemmed not only from an unprepared market but also from a development strategy that lacked firm direction. In the high-end segment, a loyal customer base is essential. While the clientele exists, they still gravitate towards international labels with recognisable branding. The audience truly fluent in minimalist fashion remains too small to sustain commercial viability. Quiet Luxury in Vietnam still requires time and trust to cultivate a community. This is something the brand had little chance to fully develop. Founder Dang Hai Yen spoke candidly with Tatler about the decision to cease operations: 'The closure of DANGHAIYEN coincides with the 10-year milestone of my career. It wasn't a decision made lightly, especially since the brand carries my most personal imprint. Running a fashion business professionally and to standard is not as simple as following your passion. I learned that during a time when I felt lost. When it's dark and you're unsure of your direction, it's best to stop, light a fire to warm yourself, rest—so that the next day, whether stormy or sunny, you can begin again in the best possible condition. After many years in operation, I feel it's time to pause and reassess how the market has evolved.' Above Resort Collection 2025 (photo: DANGHAIYEN) DANGHAIYEN's departure from the domestic scene stands as a quiet reminder to those dreaming of carving out space in Vietnam's quiet luxury realm. In a market where worth is still often measured by outward form, silence, however beautiful, must be shaped into a clear and memorable story. Only then can a name evoke not just aesthetic, but an enduring design philosophy. This is the lasting power that international quiet luxury brands have built and preserved for decades, if not centuries. 'I've never been one to rely on gimmicks to promote the brand. The decision to close DANGHAIYEN followed six months of discussion among the leadership team. We always begin by looking inward. We are businesspeople, and our approach is from a management perspective. I don't want to point fingers at external factors. Of course, those elements matter, but more than anything, a brand must have a clear orientation and a robust communication strategy,' added Dang Hai Yen. Running a fashion business professionally and to industry standards is far more complex than simply following your passion. - Dang Hai Yen, Founder of DANGHAIYEN - Above Resort Collection 2025 (photo: DANGHAIYEN) More than a fashion aesthetic, quiet luxury is a philosophy of life, a declaration of inner refinement and value beyond appearance. Yet in a market still dominated by visual impact, quiet luxury cannot survive on beautiful ideals or innovative design alone. It demands a comprehensive ecosystem: from nuanced positioning and strategic communication to a genuine connection with local cultural identity.
Daily Mail
22-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Daily Mail
ALEXANDRA SHULMAN'S NOTEBOOK: Why I give short shrift to men in their shorts
When I edited the men's magazine GQ in the early 1990s, I commissioned a piece on the delightful sight of girls in their summer dresses. I don't know whether it'd be politically correct enough to run with today, but the idea was sparked by a man I knew who told me how much he looked forward to that moment when the dresses would suddenly appear on every street in all their wafting, colourful prettiness. These days, the hot weather instead brings out the shorts in many of us – and not with very flattering results. The Italian fashion brand Max Mara last week opened its show with a model wearing the briefest of shorts, inspired by Italian actress Silvana Mangano in a 1949 film. On Silvana, a slender beauty accessorised by immaculate hair and make-up, they looked glamorous. But that's not the way shorts are making their appearance at the local Sainsbury's. It's almost impossible to look chic in them. There are a few people – hands up, Alexa Chung – who appear gazelle-like, but shorts do few of us any favours. This summer there's a trend for women in culottes, which strike me as the worst of both worlds – like a pair of childish trousers pretending to be shorts. And as for men in shorts? I don't know when it became generally acceptable for men to wear them around the city, but it's a terrible look. Possibly, like so many things, the blame lies with that first Covid summer when we were confined to home with peerless blue skies. But we're not in lockdown now. And while shorts are fine on holiday, in the garden or on the sports field, there's something intrinsically slobby about bare-legged men. I think shorts on anyone of either sex over the age of 12 should be banned on public transport. Particularly on planes. As for vests… imprisonment. Even if you're Harry Styles. Usually I'd say it's OK to wear anything so long as you're comfortable. But there are exceptions to any rule. Incidentally, I happen to be wearing a pair of shorts right now. Food for thought in a futuristic world Communal tables have always struck me as a nightmare. So I've never understood the appeal in clubs, where who you dine with is pot luck. But there's a first time for everything. The other night I found myself at one of those long tables in an old-school London club. The man next to me was extremely companionable and spent much of his meal chatting to me. He was scornful about the lifespan of journalism in this AI world. Journalists, in his opinion, are already toast. When he asked what I'd be writing this week and discovered I hadn't yet decided, he suggested AI should write this Notebook. The following morning, I woke to find him demonstrating his point over WhatsApp, where he'd sent me an AI column under the title What Shall We Do With All This Time. In brief, the column suggested that since we are all going to live to 120, we should become university students studying Sanskrit in our 70s and ceramicists in our 90s. Serial monogamy – going from one committed relationship to another – would become the norm. Naturally, I didn't think the AI contribution captured my voice, but I had to admit it was reasonably interesting. Though not nearly as interesting as what my dinner companion did for a living (which I am not at liberty to divulge). All I'll say is that he was a thoroughly intriguing and teensy bit Machiavellian character, operating levers of power in worlds I would never usually come across. It's certainly changed my views on the possibilities offered by communal dining. And I doubt this piece will change his view on journalists. MI6's new C has stars in those eyes Pictures of Blaise Metreweli, the new and first female head of MI6, show her as a cool, gimlet-eyed beauty who's oven-ready to be played by Cate Blanchett on the big screen. Female spooks are endlessly fascinating, and I can't wait for the biopic. I'm such a busy bee in the morning sun In this wonderful weather, the early mornings are heavenly; the shimmering sunshine makes it so easy to get a good start on the day. I was feeling rather smug about this – watering the pots, dealing with some personal admin and making chicken stock before 7am – when my boyfriend wandered down. Bleary-eyed and critical of what he regarded as an unnecessary amount of early-morning activity, he was having none of my smugness. 'Did you not,' he asked (surely one of the most annoying phrases in the English language), 'read that article in the Daily Mail the other day saying that it was beneficial for your health to spend time doing nothing?' Will Enfield be the Bel-Air of our era? Southwark's not my favourite part of London. But the Romans felt differently about it. Look at the amazing mosaics and frescoes of a large villa unearthed by archaeologists. From their discoveries, experts have concluded that Southwark would have been an upmarket suburb in Roman times. They even compared it to Beverly Hills in Los Angeles. How might London's current suburbs be regarded in another 1,500 years, when the remnants of today's homes are dug up, I wonder. Will Hillingdon, or perhaps Enfield, be looked back on as the Bel-Air of the times? Wine does NOT belong in a can The list of unacceptable things in life grows longer every year – it's just a side effect of ageing. So my new pet hate is canned wine. OK, it has taken me a long time to accept that boxed wine is fine (a trip to stay with friends in France, who poured their wine from a box, changed my mind). But canned wine just tastes disgusting.
Vogue Singapore
20-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Vogue Singapore
Max Mara's resort 2026 collection is an ode to womanhood and Italian heritage Vogue Singapore
Under the vaulted grandeur of La Reggia di Caserta, Max Mara set the stage for a visual feast celebrating women through the cinematic lens of Italian culture: ornate, historic, and deeply Italian. The mood? Cascading marble staircases and gilded ceilings—the perfect backdrop for the its resort 2026 collection—a considered tribute to Naples and to the evolving codes of womanhood the brand has dressed since its founding. And to add to the shimmer of the evening, a lineup of stars showed up, including the likes of Alexa Chung and South Korean actress Lee Sung Kyung. Lee Sung Kyung at the Max Mara resort 2026 show. IMAXtree Alexa Chung at the Max Mara resort 2026 show. German Larkin Joey King at the Max Mara resort 2026 show. German Larkin Griffith's vision encapsulated elements of the brand's past, seen especially through archival references trickled throughout the collection. Starting with a collaboration that reaches into the heart of Neapolitan craft—in partnership with tie maker E. Marinella, Max Mara reinterprets vintage cravatte prints across silk pyjamas and oversized cashmere sweaters. Rendered on soft, fluid silhouettes, the motifs offer a modish expression of familiar codes—connecting storied heritage to the sartorial culture of the moment. Max Mara's 2026 resort collection was unveiled at the grand La Reggia di Caserta. Courtesy of Max Mara There's also an earthy sense of charm that runs through the entire collection—sun-faded pinks, powdery blue, off-white, and muted tobacco. Silhouette play was also apparent in the ensembles: f ull circle skirts came with lozenge-shaped pockets that jutted out slightly, lending a sculptural dimension to the silhouette, while some were paired with portrait-collared tops and matching strapless bras. There's a certain playfulness, too, in the rolled-up shorts—referencing Silvana Mangano's turn in Riso Amaro—reimagined with a polished, intentional edge. The tailoring shifts throughout, but the coats are a steady anchor—Belted, shawl-collared, funnel-necked, or fringed, they speak to the luxury brand's core—practical yet always poised. The range also sees a quiet contrast between ornament and architecture: strapless gowns in dense panno scattered with crystals, their silhouettes underpinned by boned silk gauze bodices that peek just above the neckline. The cherished Whitney Bag returns to the runway, reinterpreted in four new editions for the season. Courtesy of Max Mara Accessories extend that duality of refinement and utility. The Whitney Bag, a cherished silhouette since 2015, returns in four new editions, sculpted with cleaner lines and softened curves. Another standout accessory seen on the runway were silk scarves, printed with Marinella's reinterpreted archival designs, offering a more intimate and meaningful detail to any look. Together, these elements sketch a portrait of a woman who is empowered by history—a visual representation of Italian culture, heritage and cinema. Below, see some of the key looks from Max Mara's 2026 resort collection. Courtesy of Max Mara 1 / 12 Look 1 Courtesy of Max Mara 2 / 12 Look 2 Courtesy of Max Mara 3 / 12 Look 6 Courtesy of Max Mara 4 / 12 Look 8 Courtesy of Max Mara 5 / 12 Look 9 Courtesy of Max Mara 6 / 12 Look 10 Courtesy of Max Mara 7 / 12 Look 19 Courtesy of Max Mara 8 / 12 Look 21 Courtesy of Max Mara 9 / 12 Look 23 Courtesy of Max Mara 10 / 12 Look 28 Courtesy of Max Mara 11 / 12 Look 29 Courtesy of Max Mara 12 / 12 Look 43
Harpers Bazaar Arabia
20-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Harpers Bazaar Arabia
Gwyneth Paltrow, Karen Wazen, Hadise And Daniella Rahme Channel Italian Elegance At The Max Mara Resort 2026 Show in Naples
A love letter to Italian style unfolded at the grand La Reggia di Caserta It's not often that everyone gets a front row seat at a fashion show. But then, no other brand has ever unveiled their latest collection at the Baroque Reggia di Caserta palace. The majestic space – with a grand hallway so long that every A-lister, from Gwyneth Paltrow to Paris and Nicky Hilton, Alexa Chung and Lee Sung-Kyung plus regional names like actress Daniella Rahme, Turkish singer Hadise and Karen Wazen, got a prime perch alongside the world's press – saw models glide down marble staircases and stride confidently in a collection that was inspired by bella figura, channeling the elegance of vintage Italian film. The opulent setting, a former home of Queen Mara Carolina – Maria Antoinette's sister – is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and proved to be the perfect backdrop for an iconic catwalk show. 'The first thought I had was that this was the collection that would mark the opening of our 75 th year. I wanted to look at the history of the brand, and the history of Italian fashion which I think is quite unique and distinct from the fashion of any other country in the world. It is really telling that you talk about Italian fashion today as a thing. Italian fashion, Italian style – we don't do that with any other country,' Max Mara Creative Director Ian Griffiths explained exclusively to Bazaar Arabia. Cinematic, relaxed elegance was the order of the day. Crystal-studded gowns, high-waisted short-suits with relaxed blazers, sensual slips, bustiers and bralettes, teamed with chic but eminently wearable loafers and editorial over-the-knee boots elicited non-stop applause from the appreciative audience. 'I know that sometimes you think my inspiration is from the past but I live in the present day and I want everything we do to be completely contemporary,' Ian continued. 'The reason why I use images form the past so much is because I think that when something has happened, we can really understand it. Contemporary culture is harder to get your head around because it is still happening. When I look at the films from the '50s, I get a very strong and clear message that I can interpret and I can translate into something contemporary for today.' The designer cited celluloid classics like Riso Amaro – a movie about female workers in a rice field – and Napoli Milionaria as a driving force behind this collection that encapsulated the spirit of effortless Italian style. The label's quintessential Whitney tote – named when the New York Witney Museum of Art opened its doors – is celebrating its tenth anniversary and was seen in a variety of sizes and fabrics, with four new iterations taking to the catwalk. If 2025 was heralded the year of raffia, that sets to continue into the next Resort season too, as a key piece turned out to be a made of the weave, paired with a leather trim. Coats are the hallmark of every Max Mara collection and there were gasps as a high-neck, white belted number came into view. A short, pale pink textured option – one of very few colours seen in the usual neutral, muted Max Mara palette – was another modern silhouette that epitomised easy-to-wear, modern luxury. 'We are always quite muted but there were shots of pink and blue from the Marinella inspiration from the menswear ties – just a tiny little bit of colour,' mused Ian. 'I don't think Max Mara is ever going to break out into riotous colour, but watch this space. Never say never!' He was referring to the fact that the proudly Italian brand partnered with famous Neapolitan tie-maker E. Marinella to provide printed fabrics that were fashioned into silk pyjama sets, shirts and skirts, ensuring that the collection had a strong sense of place. This collection was joyful, playful, fun. 'I think that the way you feel about designing a collection shows in the final product itself; I always feel like it should never be a labour,' Ian told us. 'Clothes should be easy to wear. And if they are easy to wear, they should be easy to design. I am not saying that anyone can do it but there has to be a naturalness, a spontaneity about it. This image of the designer sitting over his desk and racking his or her brain for the newest idea simply never worried me. I always felt the important thing was to provide what is going to make women feel good.' And in that respect, the Max Mara Resort 2026 show undeniably delivered.
