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Tokyo Weekender
6 days ago
- Entertainment
- Tokyo Weekender
Prostitution in Feudal Japan: A Literary Look
With over 1 million residents at its height, Edo (modern-day Tokyo) was the largest city in the world around the 18th century. And also the most literate. About half of its population were samurai, who were well versed in the classics. But Edo also had a thriving popular literature scene greatly enjoyed by the other half of the city. Together with adventure epics, dramas and comedies, the thing that commoners loved the most were stories involving the city's prostitutes. Though most of them were fictional, these stories help us understand the nature of sex work and the very culture of Japan's capital hundreds of years ago. List of Contents: Looking Down on Nighthawks To Be a Cool Guy in Edo, You Had To Visit Prostitutes Only Monsters Would Get Mad at Their Husbands Visiting Prostitutes Related Posts Image of Yoshiwara workers by Kitao Masanobu (c. 1800) | British Museum collections (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0) Looking Down on Nighthawks Yoshiwara, a government-sanctioned red-light district, was one of only three places in all of Japan which was set up to better control the flow of sex work in the country. It quickly became a common setting of popular books during the Edo period, many of which juxtaposed it and its working women with 'nighthawks.' Author Yamaoka Matsuake explained in his classic Sekifujinden that nighthawks, or yotaka, were unlicensed prostitutes who operated outside Yoshiwara, sometimes literally on the slopes of its moat, but also all around the city. The story focuses on a high-ranking Yoshiwara worker being condescending to a nighthawk while trying to get her to join the brothel district, for which she receives an eloquent dressing down about the hypocrisy of her gilded cage and its suffocating, rule-ridden hierarchy. Licensed prostitutes looked down on the nighthawks, but they themselves lived and worked in a place with a rigid etiquette system and a mean-girl-style pecking order. Yamaoka probably did not personally believe that the nighthawks had it better than the women in Yoshiwara (unlicensed prostitutes were virtually homeless and had no protection outside local gang bosses). But he simply refused to romanticize a place that put a lot of rules on sex. Terakado Seiken offered additional details on nighthawks in Edo Hanjoki , describing, among other things, their heavy makeup meant to hide skin conditions and other diseases. He also wrote about the wobbly shanties where they entertained clients. It was apparently common for people to peek in on those occasions and get a serious beating when they were caught. '8 O'clock at night of Yoshiwara' by Odake Kokkan. Meiji Period (1906) | British Museum collections (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0) To Be a Cool Guy in Edo, You Had To Visit Prostitutes Physical contact was restricted in feudal Japan. Things like hugs, caresses and kisses were reserved for prostitutes, so naturally it was quite common for young men to fall in love with working women. But showing it would make them un- tsu. 'Tsu' was the name for the cool aloofness and emotional distance that people from Edo decided was the definition of a true man of the capital. While the concept is a little more complex than simply 'not caring,' that was a big part of it and the best way to show it was with prostitutes. Umebori Kokuga's Keiseikai Futasujimichi describes a Yoshiwara prostitute and her client, who are both the epitomes of tsu. They're smooth-talkers seemingly only focused on what they want, and they spend most of their time playfully insulting each other. In reality, the two are miserable and the only joy in their lives is each other's company, but they'd rather gargle the Yoshiwara moat water (which was essentially a communal toilet) than admit their feelings. In the end, they break up in a torrent of sarcasm because tsu trumped personal happiness every time. Or, in some cases, common sense. Santo Kyoden's Edo Umare Uwaki no Kabayaki tells the story of Enjiro, the son of a wealthy Edo merchant who wants to be known for his mastery of tsu. By this, he's already failed, because trying to be tsu is automatically un-tsu — it should come naturally to you — yet he still gives it a go. For instance, he visits the most expensive prostitutes in Yoshiwara and hires a live-in mistress to yell at him and be jealous of his many conquests. He even pays a guy to pretend to be a hired prostitute's steady client so that she can sneak away and be with her beloved Enjiro. Because getting a prostitute to fall in love with you — while you yourself remained emotionally unattached — was the ultimate cool-guy fantasy during the Edo period. Only Monsters Would Get Mad at Their Husbands Visiting Prostitutes Feudal Japan actually had a pretty liberal attitude towards sex… whenever there wasn't some anti-prostitution moral panic sweeping the capital. On the whole, though, if a husband visited prostitutes or had a mistress, his wife was expected to be fine with it. Nowhere is this attitude more obvious than in Baba Bunko's Todai Edo Hyaku Bakemono , a collection of short stories including the tale of a merchant who falls for a courtesan and starts spending all of his time with her, abandoning his family and business. His wife eventually disguises herself as the courtesan's aunt to gain entry to her brothel, mirroring the legend of Watanabe no Tsuna , whose demonic foe Ibaraki-doji also disguised itself as the hero's relative. Once inside, the wife tries to drag her husband back home, and through this and the Ibaraki-doji reference, she is branded by the author as a 'monster' who used trickery to disturb her husband's good time. Haifu Yanagidaru, an Edo-period collection of humorous poems, suggests that wives should have their children accompany their husbands during their outings to stop them from hiring prostitutes. This loose attitude towards fidelity continued well into the 20th century and once involved Prime Minister Katsura Taro, who actually had to publicly break up with his lover to save her, but not from his wife. The two women reportedly got along well together . Related Posts Osaka Street Painted Yellow To Prevent Prostitution Japan's Ancient Sex Worker Sirens: Asobi Samurai Cops: Inside Edo's Police Force During Feudal Japan
Metropolis Japan
20-05-2025
- Metropolis Japan
Kawagoe Day Trip
Saitama Prefecture is a brewery townscape in Kawagoe City. A famous tourist destination in the Kanto region. Just 30 minutes from central Tokyo, Kawagoe in Saitama Prefecture feels like stepping into another century. With preserved Edo-era architecture, merchant history, and retro storefronts, this city known as 'Little Edo,' is a rewarding day trip from Tokyo's high-rises. Whether you're chasing cultural landmarks, local snacks or quiet charm, a Kawagoe day trip offers more than enough for a full-day adventure—especially for photographers, families or anyone burnt out on the bustle. The heart of Kawagoe's historic district is Kurazukuri Street. Here, low-slung buildings made of clay and tile evoke the fire-resistant warehouse style of the Edo Period. Some were rebuilt after the devastating 1893 fire, while others have been lovingly preserved. Shops line the street selling everything from handmade ceramics to roasted green tea, and on weekends, you'll spot locals in kimono browsing side by side with tourists. Don't miss: The architecture along Taisho Roman Dori Souvenir shops tucked into old kura storehouses The occasional aroma of roasted sweet potato Rising above the rooftops is the Toki no Kane (Time Bell Tower), which still chimes four times a day. Originally built in the 1600s, this wooden landmark has been rebuilt several times but remains Kawagoe's most enduring symbol. It's not just a photo stop—it's a soundscape, too. Time your visit with the chime at noon for the full effect. Candy Alley, or Kashiya Yokocho, is pure joy. This narrow lane is lined with old-fashioned candy shops that feel untouched by time. It began in the Meiji Period and still thrives today. Inside the shops, you'll find: Bright red candied apples Soy sauce-flavored rice crackers Whimsical handmade candies in animal shapes Classic Japanese toys and tops The vibe is playful, chaotic and sweet. Kids will love it. So will grown-ups who remember when candy came in paper bags—not plastic. Kawagoe's nickname, 'Koedo' or 'Little Edo,' isn't just clever branding—it reflects the city's historic role as a commercial outpost that helped support the Tokugawa shogunate during the Edo Period. Because of its strategic importance and proximity to Edo (now Tokyo), Kawagoe prospered as a merchant town and was known for its fire-resistant kura storehouses and samurai residences. Learn more about the historical significance of fire safety in our article: Edo's Inked Heroes: Edo Firefighters. Much of this legacy survived—or was rebuilt—after major fires in the 1800s. Today, its layout and architecture still reflect that Edo influence, earning it the designation as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings. Kawagoe's museums are small, local and personal. Skip the giant exhibitions and enjoy these more intimate spots: Kurazukuri Museum: Housed in a former tobacco merchant's residence. Dive into Edo fire safety and merchant culture. (Note: the museum is currently going through Earthquake-related renovations and is temporarily closed.) Yamazaki Art Museum: Features a modest but meaningful collection from local artists inside a former warehouse. Osawa Residence: Built in 1792, this is the oldest remaining storehouse in town. It's free to admire from outside and worth seeking out. Each stop feels like a secret—perfect for travelers who prefer to wander slowly and soak things in. All that walking and sightseeing builds an appetite. Kawagoe has plenty of food options—from traditional sweets to stylish cafés and hearty teishoku [set meals]. Unagi Denbe – A popular spot for unagi [grilled eel], a long-standing specialty in Kawagoe. [grilled eel], a long-standing specialty in Kawagoe. Pizzeria Pino – Unexpectedly authentic Napoli-style pizza. Yamawa – A cozy café inside a local gift shop, known for its sweet potato mini-kaiseki and seasonal drinks like iced matcha in summer and red bean soup in winter. Rengetsu Café – Known for its vintage interiors and fluffy French toast. Tsubakiya Foot Spa Tearoom – Sip on tea and sweets while resting your feet in a warm outdoor footbath. Koedo Kurari – A renovated sake brewery turned food hall and souvenir shop. Try their sake tasting set and grab some handmade snacks. The Kawagoe Festival is one of the region's most beloved traditions. Held every third weekend in October, the celebration includes towering floats, music, and dancing that overtakes the whole city. Can't make it in the fall? Visit the Kawagoe Festival Museum to see the floats up close and learn about the tradition year-round. Kawagoe is surprisingly walkable, but if you want to rest your feet, the Koedo Loop Bus is convenient. It runs every 30 minutes and links all the main stations—Kawagoe, Hon-Kawagoe, and Kawagoe-shi—with stops near all major landmarks. On foot, you'll likely stumble into cozy cafés, retro kissaten, and quiet backstreets that offer their own charm. Stop for a coffee, browse a tiny antique shop, or just sit and take it all in. For more day trip ideas from Tokyo, check out our other guides: Tokyo Neighborhood Guide: A Day Trip to Okutama Enoshima Day Trip: Caves, Shrines, Sea Views and a Taste of Mythology
Metropolis Japan
12-05-2025
- Metropolis Japan
Enoshima Day Trip
Mount Fuji from afar with Enoshima Island in the foreground, Kamakura, Japan Tokyo may be a city of constant motion and tight corners, but it doesn't take much effort to slip away and find space to breathe. Just an hour south by train, the island of Enoshima offers a perfect day trip from Tokyo: Think caves, coastal views, shrines and seafood—all compacted into less than half a square kilometer. While technically part of Fujisawa, Enoshima has an identity all its own. Approaching the island via the Bentenbashi Bridge, it emerges from Sagami Bay like a storybook scene, famously captured in Hokusai's prints. A full Enoshima day trip can include shrine pilgrimages, cafe stops, natural wonders and local delicacies. Kanagawa, Enoshima – Dec 25, 2022: Tourists head towards the bronze torii gate of the Enoshima Shrine, leading to the Zuishinmon gate at the top end of the Benten Nakamise Shopping street Legend says that Benzaiten, goddess of music and eloquence, descended from the heavens to tame a five-headed dragon terrorizing the Shonan Coast. Enchanted by her strength, the dragon proposed, but she refused. Instead, she raised Enoshima from the sea to make it her home. Depending on the version, she may have changed her mind—but the island remains a symbol of divine power and beauty. You can visit three shrines dedicated to Benzaiten across the island: Hetsunomiya, Nakatsunomiya and Okutsunomiya. Local lore suggests that those who visit all three in sequence may have a wish granted. Just prepare for the stairs—Enoshima is famously steep. Kamakura, Japan- 14 May, 2024: Enoshima Shrine Gatehouse in Enoshima island, Japan. This gate is named Zuishinmon. It can be taken to mean pure soul. Samuel Cocking Garden sits atop the island, named after a British merchant who bought land there during the Meiji Period. The original greenhouse has long since burned down, but today the garden features seasonal flowers like winter tulips and other rotating blooms. If visiting during the winter months, stick around after sunset for the seasonal illumination event at Samuel Cocking Garden. Thousands of lights transform the garden and Sea Candle tower into a colorful nighttime display, one of the area's most photogenic winter events. Nearby, the LON Cafe serves its well-known French toast on a renovated terrace overlooking the bay. It's a favorite rest stop for anyone craving something sweet with a view. Ryuren no Kane, the 'love bell,' sits on a scenic bluff. Couples ring it together for eternal love—though the sound is loud enough to startle even the most devoted. A good spot for a photo (and earplugs). The Sea Candle stands 60 meters above the island's summit. For ¥500 (¥250 for kids, or free with the Enopass), you can take an elevator to the dual observation decks. Clear skies offer excellent views of the Shonan Coast and, if you're lucky, Mt. Fuji. On the far end of the island lies the Iwaya Caves. These twisting tunnels reach into the island's bedrock, historically used for religious training. On calm days when the tide is low, head to the island's rocky perimeter near the caves to explore natural tide pools. You'll find small crabs, fish, and sea plants along the shore—just watch your step, as the rocks can be slippery. There are food stalls and restaurants throughout the island, especially along Nakamise Street and near the caves on Oiwayamichi. One standout is Enoshimatei, which serves shirasudon—tiny sardines over rice—alongside sashimi and tempura set meals. Another great spot is Tousha Coffee & Teishoku, a cozy and modern cafe serving seasonal teishoku (set meals), specialty coffee and homemade desserts. In the summer, they also offer handmade kakigori (shaved ice) with seasonal fruit syrups. It's tucked away on the quieter side of the island and makes a perfect stop for a relaxed lunch or afternoon break. There are plenty of street foods as well: Ika-yaki – Grilled whole squid on a stick, brushed with a sweet-savory soy-based glaze. Ebi-senbei – Pressed shrimp crackers made from whole shrimp, flattened and cooked between hot iron plates until crispy and slightly chewy. Tako-senbei – Similar to ebi-senbei, but using whole octopus flattened between iron plates. Chewy, crunchy and highly photogenic. Tako-tamago – Quail egg stuffed inside a tiny whole octopus, skewered and grilled or boiled. Sweet and savory with a fun texture contrast. Matcha Soft Cream – Smooth green tea-flavored soft serve, often sold at local shops near the shrine and garden area. Ika-yaki on Enoshima Island. Located just before the bridge to the island, Enoshima Aquarium is a popular stop for families and marine life lovers. It showcases native sea life from Sagami Bay, including a jellyfish fantasy hall and dolphin performances. The aquarium also features displays about the area's unique coastal environment and seasonal exhibits. The Enoshima 1-day pass for ¥1,100 offers access to the island's escalators, the Sea Candle observatory, Samuel Cocking Garden and Iwaya Caves. The Odakyu Limited-Express Romancecar train connects Tokyo with Enoshima, Kamakura and Hakone. From Shinjuku it's only 65 minutes to Enoshima. For more day trip ideas from Tokyo, check out our other guides: Tokyo Neighborhood Guide: A Day Trip to Okutama
Metropolis Japan
08-05-2025
- Metropolis Japan
Tokyo Train Guide: Asakusa Line
There is little doubt that Tokyo is one of the world's great urban experiments. The city's aesthetic appeal seems to forever move back and forth through classical building designs and suburban sprawls to revitalization projects and ultra-modern experiments that dazzle as architectural expressions of change. Not bad for a nation famous for tradition. Now, if Tokyo is a great urban project, its rail system is one of the many tools that opened it up for its citizens. Take the Toei Asakusa Line, for example. The first to offer through-services connecting Narita and Haneda airports without requiring a train change, the pink line whisks well over a million passengers daily between Nishi-Magome and Oshiage stations. And sitting along its twenty stations are numerous design wonders that reveal the extraordinary commitment to change that traditional Japan embodies. Photo Credit: Toshihiro Gamo Tokyo's famed modernity extends to recreating its past. Located a short walk from the current Shimbashi Station, the original Old Shimbashi Station was built in 1872, locomoting Japan into the modern world. Designed by the U.S. architect Richard Bridgens, the exact details of his Meiji Period design have since been lost. After having been thumped out of existence by the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923, a reconstruction had to wait until 2004. It used a 3D technological analysis of photographs and artworks featuring the former Meiji-period station. The result is a memorial merging of Japan's historical and modern tracks. Higashi-Ginza Station is home to the kabuki theater, Kabuki-za. Recognized by UNESCO, Japan's classic theatrical art has its roots in the seventeenth century. The irony is that, though seen as a bastion of tradition, Kabuki-za has undergone constant change in the pursuit of keeping its tradition alive. Reborn several times due to natural and human disasters, the current building design by renowned architect Kengo Kuma is its fifth iteration. Kuma was tasked to work with the then baroque Japanese revivalist style, leading to a building design that combines classic architecture with modern accessibility, a uniquely clear cultural standout amidst its modern neighbors. Never merely a collection of buildings, the historical space of Tokyo (formerly known as Edo) also featured elegantly landscaped gardens, many of which have endured the transformations of the city to this day. Kyu-Shiba Rikyu, easily accessible from Daimon Station, is an extraordinarily beautiful expression of this open design. Created on reclaimed land from Tokyo Bay, the gardens were originally part of the residences of Edo period feudal lords. Opened to the public in 1924, the garden's 4.3 hectares now act as an ornamental retreat for the public. In search of solace, local salarymen and visitors from across the city are drawn to reflect on the seasonal meanings embedded in the garden's hills, ponds and rock design elements. The final stop of the line is Oshiage Station and it is here that Tokyo's ultimate architectural experiment finds its home. The tallest structure in Japan and the third tallest in the world, Tokyo Skytree is an eye-raising 634 meters high of monster engineering. Built as a broadcast tower with restaurants, shopping complexes, a planetarium and an observation deck, Tokyo Skytree's neofuturistic template combines the power of technology with unconventional design. The inspiration behind the tower's shape is said to derive from the curve of a samurai's katana blade as well as Japan's traditional pagoda designs. The result is an awesome display of tradition and future that is exacerbated by its truly massive presence and position within Tokyo's traditional downtown Sumida district. It doesn't take all that much to find change within Japan's long-standing traditions. Its architectural and urban designs have a history of adapting to the times, all while bringing forth that unique sensibility so associated with the country. Through the Toei Asakusa Line, one of the capital's many subway routes, a discovery of Meiji period recreations, Edo era landscape experiences and future-driven design are all part of the appeal. Explore the Toei Asakusa Line using a One-Day Pass (¥700), or with a combined Toei & Metro Two-Day Pass (¥1,200) or Three-Day Pass (¥1,500). Did you like our Tokyo Train Guide to the Asakusa Line? Read our other guides here: Tokyo Train Guide: Shinjuku Line Tokyo Train Guide: Fukutoshin Line
Metropolis Japan
08-05-2025
- Metropolis Japan
A Tradition of Change metropolisjapan.com
There is little doubt that Tokyo is one of the world's great urban experiments. The city's aesthetic appeal seems to forever move back and forth through classical building designs and suburban sprawls to revitalization projects and ultra-modern experiments that dazzle as architectural expressions of change. Not bad for a nation famous for tradition. Now, if Tokyo is a great urban project, its rail system is one of the many tools that opened it up for its citizens. Take the Toei Asakusa subway line, for example. The first to offer through-services connecting Narita and Haneda airports without requiring a train change, the pink line whisks well over a million passengers daily between Nishi-magome and Oshiage stations. And sitting along its twenty stations are numerous design wonders that reveal the extraordinary commitment to change that traditional Japan embodies. Photo Credit: Toshihiro Gamo The Old Shimbashi Station—a classic Meiji period design Tokyo's famed modernity extends to recreating its past. Located a short walk from the current Shimbashi Station, the original Old Shimbashi Station was built in 1872, locomoting Japan into the modern world. Designed by the U.S. architect Richard Bridgens, the exact details of his Meiji Period design have since been lost. After having been thumped out of existence by the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923, a reconstruction had to wait until 2004. It used a 3D technological analysis of photographs and artworks featuring the former Meiji-period station. The result is a memorial merging of Japan's historical and modern tracks. Kabuki-za Theater—an ever-revitalizing tradition Higashi-Ginza Station is home to the kabuki theater, Kabuki-za. Recognized by UNESCO, Japan's classic theatrical art has its roots in the seventeenth century. The irony is that, though seen as a bastion of tradition, Kabuki-za has undergone constant change in the pursuit of keeping its tradition alive. Reborn several times due to natural and human disasters, the current building design by renowned architect Kengo Kuma is its fifth iteration. Kuma was tasked to work with the then baroque Japanese revivalist style, leading to a building design that combines classic architecture with modern accessibility, a uniquely clear cultural standout amidst its modern neighbors. Kyu-Shiba Rikyu Gardens—reclaimed classical Edo beauty Never merely a collection of buildings, the historical space of Tokyo (formerly known as Edo) also featured elegantly landscaped gardens, many of which have endured the transformations of the city to this day. Kyu-Shiba Rikyu, easily accessible from Daimon Station, is an extraordinarily beautiful expression of this open design. Created on reclaimed land from Tokyo Bay, the gardens were originally part of the residences of Edo period feudal lords. Opened to the public in 1924, the garden's 4.3 hectares now act as an ornamental retreat for the public. In search of solace, local salarymen and visitors from across the city are drawn to reflect on the seasonal meanings embedded in the garden's hills, ponds and rock design elements. Tokyo Skytree—a modern giant reaching for the skies The final stop of the line is Oshiage Station and it is here that Tokyo's ultimate architectural experiment finds its home. The tallest structure in Japan and the third tallest in the world, Tokyo Skytree is an eye-raising 634 meters high of monster engineering. Built as a broadcast tower with restaurants, shopping complexes, a planetarium and an observation deck, Tokyo Skytree's neofuturistic template combines the power of technology with unconventional design. The inspiration behind the tower's shape is said to derive from the curve of a samurai's katana blade as well as Japan's traditional pagoda designs. The result is an awesome display of tradition and future that is exacerbated by its truly massive presence and position within Tokyo's traditional downtown Sumida district. It doesn't take all that much to find change within Japan's long-standing traditions. Its architectural and urban designs have a history of adapting to the times, all while bringing forth that unique sensibility so associated with the country. Through the Toei Asakusa Line, one of the capital's many subway routes, a discovery of Meiji period recreations, Edo era landscape experiences and future-driven design are all part of the appeal. Explore the Toei Asakusa Line using a One-Day Pass (¥700), or with a combined Toei & Metro Two-Day Pass (¥1,200) or Three-Day Pass (¥1,500).
