Latest news with #MerlinLabron-Johnson
Yahoo
01-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Somerset Michelin-star restaurant wins prestigious Trencherman's Award
SOMERSET's only Michelin-star restaurant won the Trencherman's Award for Innovation and Creativity at the 2025 ceremony. Winners of the South West's most prestigious hospitality awards were unveiled at a ceremony near Bath on March 24, 2025. Merlin Labron-Johnson's hyper-local farm-to-table restaurant OSIP in Bruton won the Trencherman's Award for Innovation and Creativity. Trencherman's Guide editor Abi Manning hosted the awards evening, which is known for being the region's 'hottest' event in the culinary calendar. The event was attended by the movers and shakers of the South West food scene including leading chefs, restaurateurs, hoteliers, and food and drinks businesses. As part of the ceremony multi-course dinner was cooked by previous award winners, three of whom are Great British Menu and/or MasterChef: The Professionals alumni, with the nine prizes presented between courses. Trencherman's Guide editor Abi Manning said: 'It's always a privilege and a pleasure to bring together the Trencherman's community at our annual awards, which celebrate the crème de la crème of the region's dining establishments. 'The atmosphere was one of celebration and solidarity; we have such an abundance of talent, creativity and innovation in the South West and I think everyone present felt proud to be a part of that, and celebrated each other and the hospitality industry regardless of whether they came away with a winner's plate or not.'
Telegraph
06-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
Osip, Bruton: ‘A successful tasting menu experience is like watching a brilliant piece of theatre'
If bookends were made out of pastry, I'd have an excellent matching pair. Exactly 10 years ago, when I was reviewing restaurants for another newspaper, I visited a just-opened London spot that had major buzz about its 24-year-old chef and a dish that was quickly shaping up to be the talk of the town. Portland, its young chef Merlin Labron-Johnson and the dish, a game pithivier, quickly gained a Michelin star. I loved everything about it and went often. A few years later the chef upped sticks to Bruton in Somerset and opened Osip – a restaurant with an elegant, restrained tasting menu (of the kind not everyone has the patience to enjoy). It, too, won acclaim – one Michelin star and a green star – and a loyal following. Now, a decade on from Portland, Labron-Johnson has moved again, this time to a radically rural location in the fields outside Bruton, for Osip 2.0. And there's a pithivier (domed puff-pastry pie) on the menu. The new Osip is tricky to find on a dour Friday in February, but aim for the staggeringly beautiful National Trust properties of Stourhead and Alfred's Tower and it's the western point of a skinny triangle it forms. Its fresh white-painted exterior and austere signage let you know you're not in a standard country 'gastropub'. Inside, past the leather curtain at the door created by local interiors star Bill Amberg, a bar/sitting room awaits, with wood-burning stove and a menu of English ciders, aperitifs and sparkling wines. On hand is Felicity, a sparky and charming host whose knowledge of the menu is matched by her intel on the starry locals (Bruton has quite a few these days). After a dazzlingly fresh trout and apple roll and earthy mushroom and hazelnut cookie snack (they are far more chic than that billing), we're walked through to the dining room – although it is less a room than one side of a space, on the other side of which is a pristine, hi-tech kitchen and vast glass wall looking out across the fields. Labron-Johnson has found his perfect digs, where all of the produce for his seasonal tasting menu is within a few miles and where expensive craftsmanship shows in everything from the art to the hobs to the tablecloths, and even a timeless but somehow very modish playlist. And oh the food. Much of it is served on white clay plinths, which might look like affectation if the dishes weren't so accomplished. Celeriac soup with shiitake marmalade and winter truffle was a blissful thing more substantial and rich than its description; a beetroot taco with fallow deer, smoked quince and grilled radicchio was a ruby-hued delight; and lobster over charcoal (there's a grill in the garden, of course) with salted egg yolk and sorrel was a flavour explosion of the best kind. The new iteration of the pithivier is borne on a silver salver, garlanded in spruce and pine cones. It contains Devon Gold chicken and Périgord truffles with a sauce made with Banyuls Grand Cru. Oof. A dream to look at, and to eat. When I catch up with Labron-Johnson after service (over an insanely moreish pistachio and nori macaron), we discuss the evolution of the pie, and of his ambition. The pride with which he describes the farm on which the produce is grown, and his love of a hard-carved counter for diners who want to be even closer to the chefs, is palpable, but I sense it's been a tough journey. He deserves the reward of more acclaim, more awards, more customers. To visit Osip requires an investment but it is very much worth it – and when its four bedrooms open in April, a proper treat weekend. With snacks and petits fours, we had 11 courses. For me, a really successful tasting menu experience is like watching a brilliant piece of theatre – something to be savoured and admired, something you've put time (and money) aside for. So if you think occasionally whiling away three hours being looked after delightfully in a chic restaurant, having a procession of creative and beautiful dishes brought to you, takes too long and is not filling enough, may I direct you to the nearest McDonald's?
The Guardian
11-02-2025
- General
- The Guardian
What's the best way to make dull green cabbage taste interesting?
I often find green cabbage boring. How can I make it more interesting?The cabbage family is vast and, just like most families, its members differ hugely in shape and size, from long and pointed to rotund with solid hearts. What the green members all have in common, however, is their receptiveness to multiple situations, from braising to layering into lasagne, which is good news for those who think they're a bit dull. Merlin Labron-Johnson, chef/owner of Osip and The Old Pharmacy, both in Bruton, Somerset, is no such person, though: 'Cabbages are much more versatile than people give them credit for,' he says, 'but you do need to apply a bit of imagination.' That might mean blanching the leaves, stuffing them with sausagemeat – 'sometimes, I add pistachios, too' – then rolling and braising in the oven. 'That's an interesting way to use up a savoy cabbage.' He suggests serving these cabbage parcels with some pumpkin puree. Alternatively, put hispi in a pot roast: halve the cabbage and lay it cut side down in a hot pan with lots of oil, to get some nice caramelisation. 'Finish it in the oven, then carve and dress with chopped herbs, toasted nuts [almonds or hazelnuts, say] or pine nuts, perhaps a few raisins, and a bit of vinegar and olive oil.' Chef Daniel Watkins, meanwhile, would be inclined to fire up the barbecue – even in winter. 'It's my favourite way to bring out the best in all sorts of ingredients,' says the man behind the menu at Holy Carrot in London, which is why you'll find him outside by the barbecue year-round. 'I like to grill hispi cabbage over an open flame and, once it's beautifully charred, brush with a blend of butter [plant-based, for preference] and miso, or a rich XO sauce, which adds a deep, umami kick.' And if you're up for a project, he suggests sauerkraut, for which shredded cabbage and salt are roughed up and packed into a sterilised jar. Once fermented, Watkins recommends frying the kraut until crisp, then folding it through some velvety potato puree. Or take a leaf out of Nigel Slater's book and combine sauerkraut, softened onions, chopped parsley and walnuts, wholegrain mustard, grated fontina and some seasoning, then pile on to pastry to make a savoury galette. Labron-Johnson grows a ton of cabbage on his farm, and at this time of year especially his attention turns to soup, and more often than not that perennial winter favourite, ribollita. 'Start with a base of chopped vegetables [onion, carrot, celery, garlic] and maybe some pancetta, lardo or bacon, add cooked white beans and a bit of broth, then finish with the cabbage and lots of olive oil,' he says. You could, of course, also add some bread: 'That's a full meal, and it's not boring at all!' The Guardian's own Italian food expert Rachel Roddy also has a cabbage soup up her sleeve to 'win over sceptics'. Warm olive oil and butter in a pan, then add sliced savoy and onion, minced garlic and a couple of bay leaves. Once the cabbage has collapsed 'completely', break it up with a fork, pour in water, add salt and a parmesan rind, then simmer for 15 minutes. Next, tip in some carnaroli rice and simmer again for 20 minutes. Finish with grated parmesan and black pepper, and Bob's your uncle. Got a culinary dilemma? Email feast@
Yahoo
11-02-2025
- General
- Yahoo
What's the best way to make dull green cabbage taste interesting?
I often find green cabbage boring. How can I make it more interesting?The cabbage family is vast and, just like most families, its members differ hugely in shape and size, from long and pointed to rotund with solid hearts. What the green members all have in common, however, is their receptiveness to multiple situations, from braising to layering into lasagne, which is good news for those who think they're a bit dull. Merlin Labron-Johnson, chef/owner of Osip and The Old Pharmacy, both in Bruton, Somerset, is no such person, though: 'Cabbages are much more versatile than people give them credit for,' he says, 'but you do need to apply a bit of imagination.' That might mean blanching the leaves, stuffing them with sausagemeat – 'sometimes, I add pistachios, too' – then rolling and braising in the oven. 'That's an interesting way to use up a savoy cabbage.' He suggests serving these cabbage parcels with some pumpkin puree. Alternatively, put hispi in a pot roast: halve the cabbage and lay it cut side down in a hot pan with lots of oil, to get some nice caramelisation. 'Finish it in the oven, then carve and dress with chopped herbs, toasted nuts [almonds or hazelnuts, say] or pine nuts, perhaps a few raisins, and a bit of vinegar and olive oil.' Chef Daniel Watkins, meanwhile, would be inclined to fire up the barbecue – even in winter. 'It's my favourite way to bring out the best in all sorts of ingredients,' says the man behind the menu at Holy Carrot in London, which is why you'll find him outside by the barbecue year-round. 'I like to grill hispi cabbage over an open flame and, once it's beautifully charred, brush with a blend of butter [plant-based, for preference] and miso, or a rich XO sauce, which adds a deep, umami kick.' And if you're up for a project, he suggests sauerkraut, for which shredded cabbage and salt are roughed up and packed into a sterilised jar. Once fermented, Watkins recommends frying the kraut until crisp, then folding it through some velvety potato puree. Or take a leaf out of Nigel Slater's book and combine sauerkraut, softened onions, chopped parsley and walnuts, wholegrain mustard, grated fontina and some seasoning, then pile on to pastry to make a savoury galette. Labron-Johnson grows a ton of cabbage on his farm, and at this time of year especially his attention turns to soup, and more often than not that perennial winter favourite, ribollita. 'Start with a base of chopped vegetables [onion, carrot, celery, garlic] and maybe some pancetta, lardo or bacon, add cooked white beans and a bit of broth, then finish with the cabbage and lots of olive oil,' he says. You could, of course, also add some bread: 'That's a full meal, and it's not boring at all!' The Guardian's own Italian food expert Rachel Roddy also has a cabbage soup up her sleeve to 'win over sceptics'. Warm olive oil and butter in a pan, then add sliced savoy and onion, minced garlic and a couple of bay leaves. Once the cabbage has collapsed 'completely', break it up with a fork, pour in water, add salt and a parmesan rind, then simmer for 15 minutes. Next, tip in some carnaroli rice and simmer again for 20 minutes. Finish with grated parmesan and black pepper, and Bob's your uncle. Got a culinary dilemma? Email feast@
