What's the best way to make dull green cabbage taste interesting?

The Guardian

11-02-2025

I often find green cabbage boring. How can I make it more interesting?The cabbage family is vast and, just like most families, its members differ hugely in shape and size, from long and pointed to rotund with solid hearts. What the green members all have in common, however, is their receptiveness to multiple situations, from braising to layering into lasagne, which is good news for those who think they're a bit dull.
Merlin Labron-Johnson, chef/owner of Osip and The Old Pharmacy, both in Bruton, Somerset, is no such person, though: 'Cabbages are much more versatile than people give them credit for,' he says, 'but you do need to apply a bit of imagination.' That might mean blanching the leaves, stuffing them with sausagemeat – 'sometimes, I add pistachios, too' – then rolling and braising in the oven. 'That's an interesting way to use up a savoy cabbage.' He suggests serving these cabbage parcels with some pumpkin puree. Alternatively, put hispi in a pot roast: halve the cabbage and lay it cut side down in a hot pan with lots of oil, to get some nice caramelisation. 'Finish it in the oven, then carve and dress with chopped herbs, toasted nuts [almonds or hazelnuts, say] or pine nuts, perhaps a few raisins, and a bit of vinegar and olive oil.'
Chef Daniel Watkins, meanwhile, would be inclined to fire up the barbecue – even in winter. 'It's my favourite way to bring out the best in all sorts of ingredients,' says the man behind the menu at Holy Carrot in London, which is why you'll find him outside by the barbecue year-round. 'I like to grill hispi cabbage over an open flame and, once it's beautifully charred, brush with a blend of butter [plant-based, for preference] and miso, or a rich XO sauce, which adds a deep, umami kick.' And if you're up for a project, he suggests sauerkraut, for which shredded cabbage and salt are roughed up and packed into a sterilised jar. Once fermented, Watkins recommends frying the kraut until crisp, then folding it through some velvety potato puree. Or take a leaf out of Nigel Slater's book and combine sauerkraut, softened onions, chopped parsley and walnuts, wholegrain mustard, grated fontina and some seasoning, then pile on to pastry to make a savoury galette.
Labron-Johnson grows a ton of cabbage on his farm, and at this time of year especially his attention turns to soup, and more often than not that perennial winter favourite, ribollita. 'Start with a base of chopped vegetables [onion, carrot, celery, garlic] and maybe some pancetta, lardo or bacon, add cooked white beans and a bit of broth, then finish with the cabbage and lots of olive oil,' he says. You could, of course, also add some bread: 'That's a full meal, and it's not boring at all!'
The Guardian's own Italian food expert Rachel Roddy also has a cabbage soup up her sleeve to 'win over sceptics'. Warm olive oil and butter in a pan, then add sliced savoy and onion, minced garlic and a couple of bay leaves. Once the cabbage has collapsed 'completely', break it up with a fork, pour in water, add salt and a parmesan rind, then simmer for 15 minutes. Next, tip in some carnaroli rice and simmer again for 20 minutes. Finish with grated parmesan and black pepper, and Bob's your uncle.
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