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Travel + Leisure
a day ago
- Travel + Leisure
This National Park Has Some of the Oldest Pueblos in North America—and They're Carved Directly Into a Cliff
In southwest Colorado, where the Rocky Mountains give way to canyons and mesas, is one of the most intimate places you can connect with ancient history in the United States. In Mesa Verde National Park, you'll find elaborate villages tucked beneath sandstone overhangs. These cliff dwellings were built by the Ancestral Pueblo people and date back more than 700 years. The historic structures provide a rare glimpse into a civilization that built complex homes, ceremonial kivas, and irrigation systems. 'Mesa Verde is unique because it is a national park telling the story of people on the landscape. Even though all national parks have human stories, the Ancestral Pueblo people, the ancestral sites they built, and the park's connection to modern Pueblos and Tribes are key here,' said Dalton Dorrell, a park ranger on Mesa Verde's Interpretation and Visitor Services team. These dwellings are some of the best preserved in the world and are the hallmark of Mesa Verde National Park, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With its rare blend of cultural heritage and natural beauty, Mesa Verde isn't just a stop or another national park on the list—it's a journey into the deep history of the American Southwest. Dalton Dorrell is a park ranger on the Interpretation and Visitor Services team at Mesa Verde National Park. He has worked for the National Park Service for over 10 years. Brian Bartlett is the tourism director and CEO at Mesa Verde Country, a local organization that provides information for travelers visiting Mesa Verde National Park and the surrounding area. Scenic view of Mesa Verde National Park from the Visitor and Research Center. JohnMesa Verde National Park is open daily, year-round. No reservations are needed to enter the park, and entrance passes are $20 per vehicle during the low season (Oct. 23–April 30) and $30 during the high season (May 1–Oct. 22). Passes are good for seven days. If you want to walk inside one of the park's renowned cliff dwellings, you must book a tour up to 14 days in advance. Cliff dwelling tours run from May to October, ending in the winter. The park is still open in the colder months, but many of the facilities close, including the lodge, campground, and most dining options. It is worth noting that all of the park's historic sites and cliff dwellings are at least 45 minutes by car (one way) from the park's entrance on Highway 160. Brian Bartlett, the tourism director and CEO of Mesa Verde Country, advises travelers to 'gas up before you come as there is almost no fuel to be purchased in the park.' The park is also completely cashless, so bring a card. And finally, Mesa Verde National Park is different from most because it contains so much human history. The ancestral sites are extremely important to the park's 26 affiliated tribes and are also very fragile. "Two easy ways you can visit with respect is to not touch or sit on ancestral site walls and to leave any artifact where you find it," Dorrell said. The Mesa Top Loop Road Ruins contains some of the most elaborate Pueblo dwellings found today. Christian Kober/robertharding/Getty Images The park is between the Colorado towns of Cortez and Mancos, near the Four Corners region, where Arizona, Utah, New Mexico, and Colorado meet. It shares some land with the Ute Mountain Ute Tribe reservation. The nearest airports to Mesa Verde National Park are Cortez Municipal Airport (CEZ), about 36 miles away, Durango-La Plata County Airport (DRO), about 70 miles away, and Four Corners Regional Airport (FMN) in Farmington, New Mexico, 89 miles away. If you're flying in, you'll need to rent a car, as there's no way to get to or around the park by public transportation. It's a 45-minute drive from the park entrance off of Highway 160 to the first view of a cliff dwelling. The best time to visit Mesa Verde National Park is in late spring and early fall, when the cliff dwellings are still open, but the peak travel season of summer hasn't quite begun yet. The popular, ranger-led cliff dwelling tours begin in May and end in mid to late October. 'I really enjoy September and October in the park," said Dorrell. "It's cooler, there are still tours occurring in parts of the park, and some days are slower. If you do visit during that time, be sure to check the weather. Some years we can start getting snow that early." However, there's a reason why summer is a popular time to visit: the weather is more reliable around this time of year, and the park is usually fully open. Plus, summer comes with wildflowers and chances to spot wildlife, including bears and bobcats. Winter isn't a bad time to visit, either, and you can see sites like Spruce Tree House covered in snow, or you could even cross-country ski or snowshoe the park's winter trails. However, keep in mind that many of the park's facilities close in the colder months. In addition to its national park website, you can follow Mesa Verde's Facebook page, where delayed openings and temporary park closures are posted. Cliff Palace in Mesa Verde National Park is the the largest cliff dwelling in North America. Daniel A. Leifheit/Getty Images Cliff Palace was once home to over 100 people and is the largest known cliff dwelling in North America. It is believed to have been built between 1190 and 1280 C.E. and has 23 kivas, or ceremonial rooms. You can see the Cliff Palace from the Cliff Palace Overlook on Cliff Palace Loop Road, but if you want to step inside this massive structure, you must book a ranger-guided tour. Tours are limited to 50 people and take 45 minutes. Tourists exploring the Balcony House ruin, an Ancient Puebloan (Anasazi) cliff dwelling that was inhabited until the 13th century. wanderluster/Getty Images If you're physically fit and enjoy a bit of a challenge, reserve a tour of Balcony House, where Dorrell said visitors must 'climb a 32-foot ladder, climb two smaller ladders, and crawl through a 12-foot tunnel.' But the effort is all worth it. The path leads to a mid-sized village of 38 rooms set inside a rock alcove. Like the Cliff Palace, the Balcony House can be viewed from the six-mile-long Cliff Palace Loop Road. Those who want to set foot in the village must book a guided tour. Bartlett recommends that first-time visitors drive the six-mile Mesa Top Loop Road, which gives a good overview of the park. The loop is open year-round and provides access to 12 archeological sites, including pueblos and pit houses. You'll also see stunning views of Square Tower House, Cliff Palace, and Sun Temple. The Mesa Top Loop Road is open daily from 8:00 a.m. to sunset. The interior and exterior of a pit house reconstruction inside the Step House ruins. Rebecca L. Latson/Getty Images The only cliff dwelling you can visit without a ranger or a reservation is the Step House on Wetherill Mesa. Visiting it lets you explore a part of Mesa Verde National Park that very few people get to see. "This year, the Weatherall Mesa Road will be open, allowing folks to access and discover the other 50 percent of the park," Bartlett said. The journey to Step House usually takes three to four hours, and the site itself requires a hike on a one-mile, steep trail. There's usually a ranger on-site to answer questions. The Mesa Verde Cliff Dwellings lit by lantern light sit under a star filled sky. BradWhile most people come to the park to see how early humans lived, the park becomes a stargazing destination at night. Due to its high elevation, arid climate, and distance from the nearest community, the skies above Mesa Verde tend to be clear and inky black—ideal conditions for stargazing. Mesa Verde National Park became the world's 100th International Dark Sky Park in 2021. Booking a campsite at Morefield Campground (open May through October) is a great way to see the night sky. And in late summer, the park runs evening stargazing programs. A guest room at the Far View Lodge within Colorado's Mesa Verde National Park. Morefield is the only campground in the park and is open from May to October. But if you time a visit just right, you can enjoy a night in one of the 267 campsites that dot the grassy canyon near the park's entrance. Each site has a picnic table, fire pit, and barbecue grill. RVs and trailers are permitted. There's also a camp store as well as showers and laundry. The only traditional accommodations within the park are at Far View Lodge, typically open from April to October. The lodge is in the center of the park, around 30 minutes from the park entrance. The rooms in Far View Lodge have private balconies, Wi-Fi, and free guest parking. Pets are allowed, and there are ADA accessible rooms. The property also has a lounge and bar, and a dining room. Mesa Verde Motel is in Mancos, one of the park's neighboring towns. The motel provides just the basics, but it's modern and clean with a hip Americana feel. The property has a community fire pit and an onsite coffee shop and cocktail lounge. Bartlett describes the motel 'is not to be missed.' This little gem in Cortez describes itself as "a little different than the norm"—and it's easy to see why. The Retro Inn has a host of eccentrically decorated rooms—including the hippy-dippy Woodstock Suite—and a range of interesting amenities, including lawn bowling, nostalgic board games, and old-school video games. As an added bonus, there's an outdoor theater with swings and a fire pit. For in-park fine dining, head to the Metate Room in Far View Lodge. The menu highlights regional heritage foods, including wild game, local produce, and fresh fish. Above the lodge, the aptly named Far View Lounge has views that stretch for hundreds of miles and it's a great place to get a pre or post-dinner drink. 'While in the park one must dine at the incredible Metate Room, enjoy a cocktail at the Far View Lounge, and enjoy our incredible dark skies firsthand," Bartlett said. Another favorite of Bartlett's is Cortez's Loungin' Lizard, located on Main Street. The restaurant and bar are set in a hip, contemporary space and serve unique fare like elk shepherd's pie, pork belly tacos, and spicy barbecue chicken pizza. In Mancos, The Boathouse on Grand is the place to be. It's run by locals Jenn and Dave Stewart and has a seasonal menu that changes throughout the week. They're also known for their menu of Spanish sherries and vermouth, served by the glass.
Los Angeles Times
10-05-2025
- Sport
- Los Angeles Times
Big Canyon extends Jones Cup lead with 12th victory
Atop an incline behind the ninth green, Robert Pang demonstrated deft touch to chip a ball to the lip of the green, then watched it roll to within six feet of the hole. At times on Thursday afternoon, the hosts from Big Canyon Country Club made it look easy, and it appeared they would win in a laugher. Then Pang missed a short putt, and a couple of green-side spectators gasped. They questioned among themselves whether Big Canyon still had the lead. Under the two-best-balls format, it hadn't mattered. Big Canyon entered the final hole with a three-shot lead over Mesa Verde, and with the rest of the group finished on their scorecards, the hosts clinched a two-stroke victory. In the brilliant light of a setting sun behind the trees, Pang tapped in for a bogey. It had been a laughing matter after all, and a night of celebration was about to begin at the Newport Beach-based club. 'That chip shot, just have to get it on the green,' said Pang, the club's director of golf. 'It was just great. What a fun day. We've been talking [about how] this is the last time we get to play the Jones Cup on this golf course before we redo it in August. It's a really fun day for us.' Robert Muir Graves designed the original golf course at Big Canyon, which opened in 1971. John Harbottle finished the most recent course in 1998.' Big Canyon entered the clubhouse at a combined score of 12 under par. Pang sank five birdies, including four on the first five holes. Senior champion Will Tipton and ladies' champion Olivia Slutzky, longtime veterans of the Jones Cup, each had three birdies. 'That's who we learn from,' said Walter Frome IV, who took much of the drama out of the final hole by making par. 'I've been around since I was little, but those are the people that we look up to. I play golf with Will Tipton every week, and that's how you get better. You play with these people, and you learn about the game. They show you the right way.' The Jones Cup is an annual competition between the country clubs of Big Canyon, Mesa Verde, Newport Beach, Santa Ana and Shady Canyon. Big Canyon has a tournament-best 12 victories, followed by Mesa Verde with eight wins in the event. It's a tournament that each club very much wants to win, although the atmosphere is often more friendly than rivalrous, and members of the respective clubs cheer on their friends on the course. 'You know that they're out there and you're playing against the field, but all you can really control is the shot that you're hitting and then the atmosphere within your group,' Big Canyon club professional Erika Ilagan said. 'I think that was something that we did really well today. Being able to defend [our home course], there's a little bit of pressure, and we were able to kind of keep that at bay and just encourage each other as we were making putts and hitting shots.' Mesa Verde, the runner-up at 10 under par, was led by club professional Mike Fergin, who had five birdies. Men's champion Ryan Knapp added three birdies, and senior champion Don Odom fired in the lone eagle on the round. 'I had about a 210-yard shot in, and I had some good coaching from my teammates,' Odom said of the feat, which came on the second hole. 'I was fortunate. The wind was blowing a little, so I hit a little cut up there. The wind knocked it down, and it helped.' Shady Canyon placed third at six under par, and Newport Beach and Santa Ana tied for fourth at two under par. Ladies' champion Kelly Ly carded four birdies to lead Shady Canyon. The Irvine-based club had some news to share after the competition. 'I played tournament golf 40 years ago, and I ran out of money, ran out of talent,' said Brian Gunson, who is retiring as director of golf at the club. 'This has been my Masters for the last 16 or 17 years. I've loved every second of the Jones Cup. I'm really going to miss it.' Newport Beach's Andrew Alderdice and Santa Ana's Marcus De La Rosa, both club professionals, had four birdies apiece.
