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Irish Examiner
3 days ago
- General
- Irish Examiner
Michelle Darmody: How to make a peach traybake that feeds a dozen
This soft and fruity crumble-topped sponge is baked in a large flat tray so it can be cut up and divided easily. It works well with any stone fruit, which are all coming into their own this time of year, but peaches give a particularly deep and dense colour. The juiciness of peaches varies greatly. In Ireland, unfortunately, many peaches are packed off to our shops while ripening en route, missing out on that transformative sun-kissed effect that creates the distinctive flavour of those found in hotter climates. Unlike many other fruits that lose some of their vitality when cooked, peaches, even hard underripe ones, can intensify and become richer and smoother when used in baking. Raspberries and peaches are paired together in various desserts, as they both ripen as the summer begins to warm up, but they also provide great balance to each other. Raspberries add a tartness which enlivens the peaches' sweetness. Melba is a famous pairing of vanilla ice cream and soft peaches topped with raspberry coulis. It was invented in the Savoy Hotel in London by the famous French chef Auguste Escoffier. This traybake mirrors Melba's simple and elegant flavours. Peach Traybake recipe by:Michelle Darmody This soft and fruity crumble-topped sponge can be cut up and divided easily Servings 12 Preparation Time 20 mins Cooking Time 40 mins Total Time 60 mins Course Baking Ingredients For the topping 50g cold butter, cubed 100g demerara sugar 85g self-raising flour Zest of 2 oranges 20g porridge oats For the base 100g soft butter 150g golden caster sugar 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 tsp vanilla extract 280g self-raising flour, sieved 120ml milk 350g ripe raspberries, roughly mashed 350g peaches, stoned and sliced Method Line an 8 x 12 inch baking tray with parchment. Preheat your oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. To make the topping, rub the butter into the sugar, flour and zest until it resembles rough breadcrumbs. Stir in the porridge oats and set aside in a cool place. To make the traybake, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually add the egg and vanilla until combined. Stir in the flour. Add the milk to the batter to make it a smooth consistency. Stir in the mashed raspberries. Spread the batter into the prepared tin. Dot the peach slices on top, pressing them down a little. Sprinkle the topping over the peaches. Place into the centre of the preheated oven. Bake for 40 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean from the cake. Once cool enough to handle, remove the traybake onto a wire rack to cool then slice. Baker's tips To line your tin, cut a rectangle of parchment larger than the tin, then make four diagonal cuts the depth of your tin, one at each corner. Place the parchment over the tin and shape it into the base and sides with your hands, ensuring it is free of wrinkles. If you find it easier you can rub a small bit of butter onto the tin, so the parchment sticks to it. This also helps to keep the parchment in place when you are scooping the batter into the tin. When making the crumble topping, it is important to ensure that the butter is cold and becomes properly incorporated into the dry ingredients, otherwise you will not get that lovely crisp texture which contrasts with the soft sponge below. When you have set the topping aside and are making the sponge layer below you can store it in the fridge or a cool part of your kitchen. If your sponge is flat or too dense it is because there is a lack of air. Sieving the flour not only aerates it; it also removes lumps so it can incorporate with the rest of the ingredients more easily. When creaming the butter and sugar for the sponge layer, you will need room temperature rather than cold butter. Use a low to medium speed on your mixer until combined, then turn it up to a high speed. You want a soft, creamy texture with lots of air incorporated into it. The mixture will change colour to a pale creamy white when enough air has been added. You can scrape down the sides of the bowl as you are creaming the ingredients to ensure everything is well incorporated. If your batter begins to split or curdle as you add the eggs, add in a spoon of the flour and continue. The slices will last three days in the fridge, but the topping may lose some of its crispness. This can be frozen after it has been cut into slices. Three delicious variations: Apricot and almond This recipe works well with a strong almond flavour added to it. I like to add at least one teaspoon of almond essence in place of the orange zest and then slivered almonds in place of the oats. Instead of peaches, I use apricots, the combination of almond, raspberry and apricot works very nicely. Mixed berry Using berries to top the cake as well as the mashed raspberry in the sponge gives a tart and colourful result. I add a mixture of 350g chopped strawberries, raspberries and blackberries in place of the peaches. Apple and pecan Stew 350g of cooking apples (350g weight after the apple has been peeled and cored). Once soft, let the apple cool. Make the recipe using the stewed apple in place of the mashed raspberries. Read More Michelle Darmody: How to bake the ultimate summer pudding
Irish Examiner
17-05-2025
- General
- Irish Examiner
Michelle Darmody: How to bake semifreddo — an affogato in cake form
This is an affogato in cake form, a delicious blend of strong, dark espresso paired with the cool, velvety softness of ice cream. In fact, it is technically not ice cream, but very similar, made with a blend of whipped cream, eggs, and sugar. You do not have to make a custard base or churn it as it freezes; you simply combine the beaten eggs, whipped cream, sugar and whatever flavouring you choose. The combination of ingredients keeps it smooth when frozen. The air added while making the dessert also gives it that semi frozen feel which is echoed in its name, which means 'half-cold'. Contrary to the name, the dessert is, in fact, fully frozen. The ability to slice and serve rather than scoop makes it an ideal summer dessert. The base is optional but adds a firm layer that makes it into more of a cake-like structure, but it works equally well without the base. Originally, versions were laced with sweet Italian liqueurs and served at New Year's Eve celebrations. It is still popular in Italy and is now served around the world with all manner of additions from chopped nuts to fruit and, of course, chocolate. Semifreddo recipe by:Michelle Darmody This is an affogato in cake form Servings 10 Preparation Time 15 mins Cooking Time 6 hours 0 mins Total Time 6 hours 15 mins Course Baking Ingredients For the base 100g butter melted 200g chocolate digestive biscuits, crushed For the semifreddo layer 4 eggs, separated 20ml strong espresso coffee 1 tbsp coffee liqueur, like Kahlua or Tia Maria 90g golden caster sugar 300ml cream To decorate 50g dark chocolate 100ml cream, whipped to stiff peaks Method To make the base, stir the finely crushed biscuits with the melted butter and set aside to cool completely. Line a 2lb loaf tin with cling film. Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form and set aside. Beat the egg yolks with the espresso, liqueur, and sugar in a separate bowl until thick. Whisk the cream until it forms stiff peaks. Fold the cream into the egg yolk mixture. Fold in the egg whites. Line the top with the 'base' and pack it down. Cover this with the edges of the cling film and place into the fridge. It will take about six hours or overnight to freeze. Remove the semifreddo from the tin and gently peel off the clingfilm. Place with the biscuit base side down on a serving dish and top with the whipped cream for some extra decadence. Gently shave the chocolate into curls with a potato peeler and sprinkle on top. Baker's tips Make sure to leave extra clingfilm when lining the tin so you can cross it over the top of the dessert. The clingfilm can leave a wrinkled texture on the surface of the semifreddo. Removing the clingfilm before allowing the dessert to soften will reduce the risk of leaving marks on the surface. Also topping it with some cream and chocolate shavings makes it look and taste more decadent, but it also helps to hide any imperfections. Use eggs that are at room temperature rather than straight from the fridge. Cold eggs will not whisk as well. Overmixing instead of folding in the egg whites and the cream can lead to deflation and can make your semifreddo hard and dense. Keeping as much air as possible will make sure the consistency feels creamy and soft and will give it its signature half-melted, smooth texture. To remove the semifreddo from the tin, tug on the plastic to loosen it then run a butter knife around the inside of the tin, peel back the top of the cling film and invert the dessert onto your serving plate. The semifreddo will keep for up to four weeks in your freezer. Because it is made in a different way to ice cream it does not have as long a storage time. You can slice it straight from the freezer with a knife dipped in boiling water or you can allow it to thaw slightly before serving. It is nice to put your serving plate into the freezer before turning the dessert out onto it. This recipe uses raw eggs, so may not be suitable for all diners. It is best made with very fresh eggs. There is uncooked alcohol in the dessert so it is not suitable for children. Three delicious variations Orange semifreddo In place of the coffee liqueur and espresso, use the zest of two oranges and either 20ml of orange juice or an orange liqueur like Grand Marnier. Cherry black forest gateau In place of the espresso and coffee, add 30ml of a cherry liqueur such as Kirsch. Top the whipped cream layer with some maraschino cherries before adding the chocolate shavings. Marsala and dried fruit In place of the espresso and coffee, use 40ml of marsala. It is also nice to add a mixture of dried fruit. I like to have a colourful combination of apricots, prunes, golden raisins and mixed peel, all chopped. Add 150g of the fruit combination and soak them in the marsala before adding the swollen fruit and the remaining marsala to the mixture. Read More Michelle Darmody: How to bake profiteroles and the mistakes to avoid
Irish Examiner
03-05-2025
- General
- Irish Examiner
Michelle Darmody: How to bake profiteroles and the mistakes to avoid
A tower of profiteroles, or croquembouche, makes a great centrepiece on any occasion. You can also make a smaller batch and have them at home as a very tasty dessert. Once you know how to make choux pastry you can use it in many ways. There are endless combinations of flavours that can be piped into profiteroles. You can also make elongated eclairs or a Paris-Brest, which has a wreathlike shape and is traditionally filled with a praline mousse. The strong flour is quite important in the recipe as it has a higher gluten content than regular flour. which helps to bind the dough and allows gives a good rise when baking. Making choux pastry does require a bit of elbow grease, as you have to first fold in the flour quite vigorously, then do the same when adding the egg. You can use a food processor, but I prefer to make the pastry by hand as I can keep a close eye on changes in texture and consistency. Once a shine becomes apparent as you are adding the egg you keep beating until the dough comes away completely into a smooth but firm ball. Some recipes recommend milk in place of water, but I find that water works better with the higher oven temperature needed to bake the choux. The higher temperature helps to form a strong shell and prevents the inside of the buns from softening which can cause collapse. Profiteroles recipe by:Michelle Darmody Once you know how to make choux pastry you can use it in many ways Servings 24 Preparation Time 25 mins Cooking Time 20 mins Total Time 45 mins Course Baking Ingredients 50g butter 9g golden caster sugar 150ml water 75g strong flour, sieved 1 large egg, lightly beaten For the filling: 250ml cream 2 tsp maple syrup For the icing: ½ tbsp cocoa powder 10g caster sugar 1½ tbsp water 85g icing sugar 25ml cream, whipped to stiff peaks Method Line a large flat baking tray with parchment. Preheat your oven to 220 °C/gasmark 7. Add the butter, sugar, and water into a saucepan and gently heat until all the ingredients are melted together. Bring the mixture to the boil. Take the saucepan off the heat and stir in the flour. Stir vigorously until combined and the dough starts to come away from the sides of the saucepan. Leave the mixture to cool for five minutes, then add in the egg and beat until you have a glossy mixture that forms a firm dough. Add your dough to a large piping bag with a round nozzle. Splash some water onto the parchment on your baking tray. Pipe 12 circles or oblongs of dough on each tray leaving room for them to rise. Bake in the centre of your oven for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and make a small slit in each roll as you are placing them onto a wire rack to cool. Whip your cream with the maple syrup until stiff peaks form. To make the chocolate sauce, gently melt cocoa powder, caster sugar and water together. Take them off the heat and stir in the icing sugar. Allow to cool for 20 minutes then fold in the whipped cream. Fill a piping bag with the cream and insert the nozzle into the slit in each profiterole. Pipe in the cream until each roll is full. Spoon the sauce over each profiterole and serve. Baker's tips You need enough egg to form a stiff and shiny dough. I find one large egg sufficient. If you do not have one large egg, one and a half medium eggs should do. You can use the remaining egg to make an egg wash to get a shine on the buns. Beat the egg and after piping the pastry on the tray brush each profiterole with the egg wash. This will give them a golden colour as well as a shine. Splashing the trays with water helps to create steam in your oven to allow a good rise. Alternatively, put an oven-proof bowl of water into the oven as the buns are baking. If you feel that the inside of the profiteroles are a little sticky when you are making the slit in them, you can place them back into a warm oven. Turn the heat off and allow them to dry out for ten or fifteen minutes as you would a meringue. If your profiteroles fall flat, it is usually because the egg has been added to the flour mixture too soon, before it has had a chance to cool sufficiently. Make sure to wait the five minutes before adding the eggs. But even if they collapse, they will puff up when the cream is piped into them When using a piping bag to place the pastry on the tray there is often a little spike on the top of each bun. To ensure a nice round bun. you can wet your finger with some warm water and gently press the spike down before placing them into the oven. You can freeze the unfilled profiteroles. When defrosting, place them on a wire rack to help prevent them from becoming soggy. You can crisp them up in a hot oven for just under ten minutes. If you decide to do this, allow them to cool completely before filling. Once you have filled the buns, it is best to eat them within a few hours as they begin to get soft and squishy. Two delicious variations Custard filled choux buns Cut each profiterole in half and fill with a thick custard. Place the top of the bun onto the custard. Sprinkle some toasted slivered almonds and icing sugar on top. Raspberry cream buns Mash 100g of ripe raspberries with one teaspoon of honey and fold this through stiffly whipped cream. Use this to fill the choux buns. If you want a bit of added glamour, you can make a white chocolate ganache and drizzle it over the buns. I like to sprinkle edible rose petals and some chopped pistachio nuts onto the ganache. To make the ganache melt 150g of white chocolate chips in 150ml of hot cream. Read More Michelle Darmody: How to bake the perfect crisp but squishy custard slice
Irish Examiner
26-04-2025
- General
- Irish Examiner
Michelle Darmody: How to bake the perfect crisp but squishy custard slice
The perfect custard slice is sweet, squishy, and squelchy on the inside, and crisp and brittle on the outside. The trick is to not allow too much of the custard and raspberry filling to leak out as you take a mouthful. It can be a balancing act. I remember my mother making a larger version of this when I was growing up. The puff pastry rectangle was about the length of an A4 sheet, and the first layer was filled with stiffly whipped cream and raspberries, the second filled with custard. There was a thin layer of lemon icing drizzled over the top. I loved carrying it, gently, to the table after dinner. The combination of a set custard and crisp pastry appears in many different cultures. In the Netherlands it is called tompouces, in Poland it is known as karpatka, while the Germans have cremeschnitten. What I am referring to as custard is in fact more correctly called crème pâtissière, which is a custard with the addition of a starch to firm it up. In this case, corn starch is used. The starch allows the custard to thicken more than it would usually and to hold its shape when used as a filling for a pastry slice or another dessert. Custard Slices recipe by:Michelle Darmody The combination of a set custard and crisp pastry appears in many different cultures. Servings 6 Preparation Time 25 mins Cooking Time 30 mins Total Time 55 mins Course Baking Ingredients 300g puff pastry sheets 500 ml milk 1 tsp vanilla 100g golden caster sugar 4 egg yolks 40g cornflour 40g butter 150g raspberries 1 tbsp Grand Marnier Method Line a large flat baking tray with parchment. Preheat your oven to 200°C/gas mark 6. Roll the sheets of puff pastry until they are 2.5 mm in thickness. Cut out 16 rectangles and place them on the baking tray. Place the tray into the oven to bake for 15 minutes. Remove it gently and lay a second sheet of parchment over the pastry rectangles. Place a second baking tray on top and weigh it down. I use two heavy cast-iron dishes. Bake for another 15 minutes until the rectangles are golden in colour. Remove from the oven and take off the weights. Once they are cool enough to handle, move the slices onto a wire rack to cool completely. While your pastry is baking add the milk and vanilla to a heavy-based saucepan, bring to the boil then remove from the heat. In a bowl, whisk together the sugar, egg yolks and cornflour. Pour a little of the hot milk into the egg and sugar mixture, whisking continuously. Whisk in the rest of the hot milk until combined, then return to the saucepan. Cook the mixture over a gentle heat, stirring continuously, until the mixture becomes thick and just about comes to a boil. Remove from the heat and pass the mixture through a sieve into a clean bowl. Add the butter and stir until melted and thoroughly combined. Leave to cool completely in the fridge. Mash the raspberries with the Grand Marnier liquor and set aside. To assemble the slices, place six of the rectangles onto a large plate. Pipe or scoop the set custard onto the pastry and add a spoonful of the raspberry mixture. Top each one with the other pastry rectangle. Serve with the remaining raspberry mixture and dust with icing sugar if you wish. Baker's tips Ready-rolled sheets of puff pastry will still need a little more rolling as they tend to be too thick for this recipe. You can use 500g of pastry and add a middle layer to your slice if you prefer this ratio. This will also add more structure. You compress the pastry between the baking sheets while baking to limit its expansion and rise. Compressing halfway through baking allows the pastry to bake on its own for a while. I find this gives a better result than compressing from the beginning I tend to bake the pastry a little darker for this recipe than I would usually bake puff pastry. It adds crispness. One downside, however, is that crispy well-baked pastry is trickier to handle. Care is needed. As crème pâtissière heats, the starch granules absorb liquid and swell, thickening the mixture. This process is called starch gelatinisation. The amount of starch in a recipe will define the thickness of the final custard. If you have a vanilla pod, it will add greater richness than vanilla essence or extract. If using, cut the pod down the centre lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the milk. You can also add the pod to the milk as you boil it. Remove the pod before adding the milk to the egg and sugar mixture. Keep an eye on the heat when cooking the custard. If the heat is too low it will not thicken enough but if it is too high, you may end up with scrambled eggs. It is best to heat it steadily over a low heat in a heavy-based saucepan. If you notice lumps beginning to form in a custard, you can pour it out of the pan into a bowl and pulse it with a handheld blender in five-second intervals until it is smooth. The custard will keep, covered, in the fridge for up to 48 hours and then you can assemble the slice when needed. The pastry can become a soggy, so the slices are best eaten when they are made, when still crisp. You can make one large slice and very methodically cut this into squares if you like a really clean lined finish. This is how most French pâtissiers would make their custard slices. If doing it this way, be sure to use a very sharp knife and dip the knife in hot water and wipe it between cuts. Saw through the pastry so the custard doesn't squash out the sides.
