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The Guardian
23-06-2025
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
Prada's pared-back military chic turns heads in Milan
Miuccia Prada may argue that her collections are not a response to the global political landscape. But in keeping with the theme for her spring/summer 2026 menswear collection shown in Milan on Sunday, there may be a change of tone. The show notes shared with journalists described the collection as representing 'a shift of attitude – dismantling of meaning and dismantling power'. As the designer spoke about 'the nastiness [in the world]', her co-creative director, Raf Simons, said the pair 'wanted to bring … something that makes you feel … positive and balanced'. The collection, displayed at the Deposito show space at Fondazione Prada, emphasised that point. Precision-pressed shirting with hand-drawn wave illustrations, khaki knitwear with fringed hems, utilitarian-grey tailoring paired with tiny matching shorts and striped tracksuits styled with thonged sandals mused individuality over conformity. Accessories including grey wash bags, backpacks with multiple pockets and compartments as well as white canvas plimsolls – items with sartorial origins in military survival gear – were countered with raffia cloche hats and a pastel palette that suggested escapism rather than restraint. The buzzwords for this stripped-back collection included 'limitless elemental compositions', 'nonconformist harmonies, new movements' and 'impulse'. In reference to its simplicity, after the show Prada decried 'useless, complicated ideas' and 'a lot for the sake of doing a lot', adding: 'We did less –but doing less isn't necessarily easier.' The catwalk setting emphasised the fine line between escapism and political statement. Models walked to an abstract soundscape, which started with birdsong and concluded with Elvis Presley's 1969 hit In the Ghetto, in a space that featured bare walls with retro, floral shagpile carpets, though it was usually adorned with chandeliers. 'This is the first time the Fondazione is … completely bare, with all the daylight coming in,' said Simons. 'I think we conceived it as a whole experience, not like a collection, a show space … more as a total feeling that we want to do.' As one of the world's most influential and in-demand brands, the spotlight is always on Prada to set the next season's trends, which it has done successfully for decades. That its recent menswear shows have taken place during pivotal political moments this year has again put Prada in the hotseat to respond. Sign up to Fashion Statement Style, with substance: what's really trending this week, a roundup of the best fashion journalism and your wardrobe dilemmas solved after newsletter promotion In January, the collection was unveiled the day before Donald Trump's inauguration. Five months later, the Milan show came hours after the president announced US strikes on Iranian nuclear sites. Asked on Sunday whether the collection had changed in response to the military action, Simons and Prada said it had not, instead emphasising the theme of escapism. 'There were a lot of different elements coming in … different cultures and … eras,' said Simons. 'We talked a lot about nature … the elements. Freedom to bring things together and express yourself the way you want.' Sunday's catwalk show was Prada's first since it bought Versace for €1.25bnfrom the fashion conglomerate Capri Holdings in April, a historic deal that united two powerful Italian brands. Later that week the consultancy Bain & Company released a report that revealed the enormous pressure facing the global luxury sector. It said: 'Worldwide luxury spending, historically sensitive to uncertainty, is coming under intensified pressure as luxury consumers' confidence is eroded by current economic upheavals, geopolitical and trade tensions, currency fluctuations and financial market volatility … The €1.5tn revenue industry faces its first slowdown since the global financial crisis of 2008 to 2009 (excluding the temporary shock of the Covid-19 pandemic).' In spite of the slowdown, the Prada Group has reported revenues of €5.4bn in 2024, 17% higher than the previous year.
Yahoo
22-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Pronounce Spring 2026: Light as a Kite
With light fabrications, charming color combinations and an overall effortless vibe, Chinese duo Yushan Li and Jun Zhou delivered their most convincing collection since joining the Milan fashion scene and its official schedule last year. Presented at Fondazione Sozzani, against the backdrop of large-scale installations and artworks by Kris Ruhs, their spring 2026 lineup was inspired by traditional Chinese kites and the exploration of the differences between kite-making across Eastern and Western cultures. More from WWD Rowen Rose Goes Coed for Its First Show Joey King Elevates Textured Neutrals With Clamp-bar Tod's Loafers at Montblanc's 'Let's Write' Event in Milan Fondazione Sozzani Champions Fashion as Culture in Its Own Indie Way The most literal nod to the theme could be detected in the shape of parkas and billowing sheer tops or in the subtle folding putting a nice spin into roomy pants. The balanced tension between lightness and structure that define kites also permeatedf the handsome deconstructed tailoring that backstage the duo described as 'chill formal.' Fluid silk, washed linen and recycled nylon were joined by eco-leather that grounded the flowy volumes of the lineup with its shiny surface, as seen in a Mountbatten pink coat, low-waist beige shorts and biscuit-hued overalls. In conjunction with the emphasis on lightweight textures and readable silhouettes, chromatic juxtapositions were what set this Pronounce effort apart. Mint, powder pink, light blue, lavender, champagne, shades of brown and anthracite were tastefully combined to evoke summer skies and stormy weather, and ultimately made the collection fly high. Launch Gallery: Pronounce Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway
Vogue
05-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Vogue
No. 21 Resort 2026 Collection
The N.21 lookbook was shot at night on the empty streets of a deserted Milan. 'I love the city's old buildings with their imposing entryways and front doors, and its eerie nocturnal atmosphere,' designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua said. But the new collection wasn't intended for late-night parties or after-hours adventures. Quite the opposite. Dell'Acqua is a quiet contrarian, and resort is centered on the quotidian-with-a-twist look he does so well. At a showroom appointment, the racks overflowed with neoprene-bonded Fair Isle cotton sweatshirts paired with ankle-grazing light wool skirts, sequined pencil skirts styled with sporty striped polos, and pale brocatelle skirt suits whose bourgeois vibe was upset by worn-in denim shirts. Dell'Acqua explained that he wanted to 'go back to basics,' but sharpened with a sort of 'essential imperfection' to make them not so safe—a built-in mix of masculine and feminine, with a dash of 1940s vintage glamour to give it some louche edge. Everyday staples—like black leather perfectos and checkered dusters—were tossed over sequined evening dresses and hand-pressed silk slips dotted with sparse florals. Dell'Acqua's styling leans just eccentric enough to surprise, but always stays grounded in wearability. Clichés get a gentle shake-up, never a full rejection. 'I encourage a bit of adventurous spirit—intuition, creativity, and a dash of nonchalance,' 'he noted. 'Fashion isn't just for big moments, it doesn't have to be intimidating, either. I want to give women the tools to zhuzh up the everyday.' At a fair price, it's definitely a smart, feel-good move.
