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The Independent
a day ago
- General
- The Independent
Saffron brings a golden hue to this fresh combination of zucchini and pasta
This pasta dish, a riff on an offering served at Trattoria Bertozzi in Bologna, Italy, is a golden, fresh combination of guanciale (cured pork cheek), fragrant saffron, summery zucchini and short, curly pasta. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street Backroads Italy,' we opted for easier-to-find but equally meaty pancetta, and lightened the dish's richness by swapping in half-and-half for the heavy cream. The restaurant uses gramigna pasta, a tubular, curled shape from the Emilia-Romagna region, but cavatappi or gemelli works just as well, combining with the zucchini and catching the lightly creamy sauce in its crevices. Saffron is best when steeped in hot liquid to extract its flavor and aroma. To infuse the dish with a golden hue and earthy-floral flavor, we soak a generous pinch of saffron threads in a portion of water before combining it with the pasta. Don't boil the pasta until al dente. Drain it when it has a little more bite than is desirable in the finished dish; the noodles will cook a bit more in the sauce. Also, don't forget to reserve 2 cups of the cooking water before draining the pasta. Serve with shaved Parmesan and freshly ground black pepper. Pasta with Zucchini, Pancetta and Saffron Start to finish: 40 minutes Servings: 4 Ingredients: 1 pound zucchini 12 ounces short, curly pasta, such as cavatappi or gemelli Kosher salt and ground black pepper ½ teaspoon saffron threads 3 ounces pancetta, finely chopped 1 medium garlic clove, smashed and peeled ½ cup half-and-half 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, shaved with a vegetable peeler Directions: Halve the zucchini lengthwise, then use a spoon to scrape out the seeds. Slice each half lengthwise about ¼ inch thick, then cut the strips crosswise into 1-inch sections. In a large pot, boil 4 quarts of water. Add the pasta and 1 tablespoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until just shy of al dente. Reserve 2 cups of the cooking water, then drain. In a small bowl, combine 1½ cups of the reserved water and the saffron; set aside the remaining ½ cup water. While the pasta cooks, in a 12-inch skillet over medium, cook the pancetta and garlic, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta has rendered some of its fat and begins to crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove and discard the garlic, then stir in the zucchini and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is fully crisped and the zucchini is lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the pasta and the saffron water to the skillet. Bring to a simmer over medium-high and cook, stirring often, until the pasta is al dente, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the half-and-half and cook, stirring, until the sauce is lightly thickened and clings to the pasta, about 1 minute. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. If needed, stir in additional reserved pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time to create a lightly creamy sauce. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with Parmesan.
Associated Press
a day ago
- General
- Associated Press
Saffron brings a golden hue to this fresh combination of zucchini and pasta
This pasta dish, a riff on an offering served at Trattoria Bertozzi in Bologna, Italy, is a golden, fresh combination of guanciale (cured pork cheek), fragrant saffron, summery zucchini and short, curly pasta. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street Backroads Italy,' we opted for easier-to-find but equally meaty pancetta, and lightened the dish's richness by swapping in half-and-half for the heavy cream. The restaurant uses gramigna pasta, a tubular, curled shape from the Emilia-Romagna region, but cavatappi or gemelli works just as well, combining with the zucchini and catching the lightly creamy sauce in its crevices. Saffron is best when steeped in hot liquid to extract its flavor and aroma. To infuse the dish with a golden hue and earthy-floral flavor, we soak a generous pinch of saffron threads in a portion of water before combining it with the pasta. Don't boil the pasta until al dente. Drain it when it has a little more bite than is desirable in the finished dish; the noodles will cook a bit more in the sauce. Also, don't forget to reserve 2 cups of the cooking water before draining the pasta. Serve with shaved Parmesan and freshly ground black pepper. Pasta with Zucchini, Pancetta and Saffron Start to finish: 40 minutes Servings: 4 Ingredients: 1 pound zucchini 12 ounces short, curly pasta, such as cavatappi or gemelli Kosher salt and ground black pepper ½ teaspoon saffron threads 3 ounces pancetta, finely chopped 1 medium garlic clove, smashed and peeled ½ cup half-and-half 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, shaved with a vegetable peeler Directions: Halve the zucchini lengthwise, then use a spoon to scrape out the seeds. Slice each half lengthwise about ¼ inch thick, then cut the strips crosswise into 1-inch sections. In a large pot, boil 4 quarts of water. Add the pasta and 1 tablespoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until just shy of al dente. Reserve 2 cups of the cooking water, then drain. In a small bowl, combine 1½ cups of the reserved water and the saffron; set aside the remaining ½ cup water. While the pasta cooks, in a 12-inch skillet over medium, cook the pancetta and garlic, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta has rendered some of its fat and begins to crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove and discard the garlic, then stir in the zucchini and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is fully crisped and the zucchini is lightly browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Add the pasta and the saffron water to the skillet. Bring to a simmer over medium-high and cook, stirring often, until the pasta is al dente, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the half-and-half and cook, stirring, until the sauce is lightly thickened and clings to the pasta, about 1 minute. Off heat, taste and season with salt and pepper. If needed, stir in additional reserved pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time to create a lightly creamy sauce. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with Parmesan. EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at
The Independent
02-06-2025
- Health
- The Independent
This steak salad is a trattoria staple and the perfect summer lunch
Straccetti di manzo, which translates roughly from the Italian to 'little rags of beef,' is a trattoria staple. The cooking is minimal and quick, making this ideal for a weeknight dinner, but the beef must be thinly sliced. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street Backroads Italy,' we freeze the meat for about 20 minutes to firm it a bit, which allows a knife to glide through the grain. After a quick sear in a hot skillet, the steak slices go directly onto a bed of peppery arugula and sweet-tart tomatoes. We prefer tri-tip steak for this recipe, as it has great flavor and a tender texture. Don't dress the arugula and tomatoes too far in advance or they will wilt and turn soggy. Wait until after the beef is sliced before tossing the veggies with the oil, lemon juice and salt. Also, don't stir the beef during the first three minutes of cooking. Allowing it to cook undisturbed will give the meat a chance to develop flavorful browning. Balsamic vinegar, reduced as it deglazes the pan, acts as tangy-sweet dressing when combined with vegetables. Shaved Parmesan, along with black pepper and a final drizzle of olive oil, are perfect finishing touches. Straccetti di Manzo Start to finish: 45 minutes (25 minutes active) Servings: 4 to 6 Ingredients: 1½ pounds beef tri-tip steak Kosher salt and ground black pepper 5-ounce container baby arugula 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more to serve 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes ¼ cup balsamic vinegar Parmesan cheese, for shaving Directions: Place the steak on a plate and freeze, uncovered, until partially frozen, about 20 minutes. Using a sharp knife, slice the beef against the grain on the diagonal no thicker than ¼ inch. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper; toss to coat. On a deep, wide platter, toss the arugula and tomatoes with 1 tablespoon of the oil, the lemon juice and ¼ teaspoon salt. In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until barely smoking. Add the garlic and pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beef in an even layer; cook without stirring until only a little pinkness remains and some liquid has been released, about 3 minutes. Stir, redistribute in an even layer and cook until no longer pink, about 1 minute. Using tongs, place the steak on the vegetables, leaving the garlic in the pan. Add the balsamic to the pan and bring to a simmer over medium-high; cook, scraping up any browned bits, until slightly reduced, about 1 minute. Discard the garlic; pour the balsamic over the steak. Shave Parmesan over the top, then finish with additional oil and black pepper.
Associated Press
02-06-2025
- Health
- Associated Press
This steak salad is a trattoria staple and the perfect summer lunch
Straccetti di manzo, which translates roughly from the Italian to 'little rags of beef,' is a trattoria staple. The cooking is minimal and quick, making this ideal for a weeknight dinner, but the beef must be thinly sliced. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street Backroads Italy,' we freeze the meat for about 20 minutes to firm it a bit, which allows a knife to glide through the grain. After a quick sear in a hot skillet, the steak slices go directly onto a bed of peppery arugula and sweet-tart tomatoes. We prefer tri-tip steak for this recipe, as it has great flavor and a tender texture. Don't dress the arugula and tomatoes too far in advance or they will wilt and turn soggy. Wait until after the beef is sliced before tossing the veggies with the oil, lemon juice and salt. Also, don't stir the beef during the first three minutes of cooking. Allowing it to cook undisturbed will give the meat a chance to develop flavorful browning. Balsamic vinegar, reduced as it deglazes the pan, acts as tangy-sweet dressing when combined with vegetables. Shaved Parmesan, along with black pepper and a final drizzle of olive oil, are perfect finishing touches. Straccetti di Manzo Start to finish: 45 minutes (25 minutes active) Servings: 4 to 6 Ingredients: 1½ pounds beef tri-tip steak Kosher salt and ground black pepper 5-ounce container baby arugula 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more to serve 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes ¼ cup balsamic vinegar Parmesan cheese, for shaving Directions: Place the steak on a plate and freeze, uncovered, until partially frozen, about 20 minutes. Using a sharp knife, slice the beef against the grain on the diagonal no thicker than ¼ inch. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper; toss to coat. On a deep, wide platter, toss the arugula and tomatoes with 1 tablespoon of the oil, the lemon juice and ¼ teaspoon salt. In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until barely smoking. Add the garlic and pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beef in an even layer; cook without stirring until only a little pinkness remains and some liquid has been released, about 3 minutes. Stir, redistribute in an even layer and cook until no longer pink, about 1 minute. Using tongs, place the steak on the vegetables, leaving the garlic in the pan. Add the balsamic to the pan and bring to a simmer over medium-high; cook, scraping up any browned bits, until slightly reduced, about 1 minute. Discard the garlic; pour the balsamic over the steak. Shave Parmesan over the top, then finish with additional oil and black pepper. EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at
Associated Press
27-05-2025
- Health
- Associated Press
Tangy cherry preserves bring balance to this ancient ricotta tart
At Armando al Pantheon, a trattoria in Rome, meals often are punctuated with a slice of torta antica roma— a rustic tart inspired by the traditional Roman combination of ricotta and cherries. It's exceptionally light, with milky-sweet ricotta balanced by tangy, brightly hued fruit preserves. The base is a tender, buttery, almost cake-like crust, and the topping is a crumby mixture of the same composition. Sandwiched between is a layer of jam on a bed of ricotta dotted with poppy and sesame seeds. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street Backroads Italy,' we devised a dough that gets flavor and texture from almonds that are ground in the food processor, plus a small measure of semolina (or cornmeal). Lemon zest brings brightness, and baking powder adds a little lift and lightness. Sour cherry jam, with its balance of sweet and sour, is best in this tart; some brands might specify Morello cherries on the label. If sour cherry jam is not available, good-quality strawberry jam is a better option than sweet cherry jam. Don't use part-skim ricotta, as it lacks richness and has a grainy texture. Also, after making the crust mixture and transferring half to the pan, be sure to refrigerate the remainder, which will become the crumb it's kept at room temperature, it won't hold its shape during baking and will melt into the filling. Lastly, don't spread the ricotta and jam layers all the way to the edges or the filling will caramelize against and stick to the pan, making it tricky to remove the tart for serving. Covered tightly, leftovers will keep in the refrigerator for up to three days; bring to room temperature before serving. Ricotta and Cherry Jam Tart Start to finish: 2 hours (50 minutes active), plus cooling Servings: Makes one 9-inch tart Ingredients: For the crust and topping: 1 large egg 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 65 grams (½ cup) slivered almonds 71 grams (⅓ cup) white sugar 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest 163 grams (1¼ cups) all-purpose flour 57 grams (⅓ cup) semolina flour or 48 grams (⅓ cup) fine yellow cornmeal ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon table salt 85 grams (6 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes, room temperature ___ For the filling and finishing: 15- or 16-ounce container whole-milk ricotta 1 large egg yolk 1 tablespoon poppy seeds 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon almond extract (optional) 320 grams (1 cup) sour cherry jam (see headnote) 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest Powdered sugar, to serve Directions: Heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. Mist a 9-inch springform pan with cooking spray. To make the crust and topping, in a small bowl, whisk together the egg and vanilla. In a food processor, combine the almonds, white sugar and lemon zest. Process until the nuts are roughly chopped, about 15 seconds. Add both flours, the baking powder and salt; pulse to combine, about 5 pulses. Scatter the butter over the top, then pulse until the butter has been reduced to pea-sized bits, about 10 pulses. Drizzle the egg mixture over the top, then pulse until the mixture is evenly moistened and resembles damp sand; it will not form a cohesive dough. Transfer half of the mixture to the prepared springform pan, then distribute in an even layer and lightly press it; do not firmly compact the mixture. Transfer the remainder to a medium bowl and refrigerate uncovered until needed. Bake the crust until golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Meanwhile, make the filling. In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, egg yolk, poppy seeds, vanilla and almond extracts (if using); fold with a silicone spatula until well combined. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. In a small bowl, stir together the jam and lemon zest; set aside. When the crust is done, transfer to a wire rack and cool for about 15 minutes; leave the oven on. Scrape the ricotta mixture onto the still-warm crust and spread in an even layer, leaving a ¼-inch border at the edge. Dollop the jam onto the ricotta and gently spread in an even layer to cover the ricotta layer; try not to mix the jam into the cheese. Remove the topping mixture from the refrigerator. Scoop up a handful, firmly squeeze it until it forms a cohesive clump, then crumble and break the clump into bits, scattering them over the tart; aim for a mixture of fine crumbles and pebbly, pistachio-sized pieces. Continue adding the remaining topping in the same way, distributing it in an even layer; it will not fully cover the tart. Bake until the jam is bubbling at the edges and the crumb topping is light golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool for about 30 minutes. Remove the pan sides and cool completely. Just before serving, dust with powdered sugar. EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at
