This steak salad is a trattoria staple and the perfect summer lunch
Straccetti di manzo, which translates roughly from the Italian to 'little rags of beef,' is a trattoria staple. The cooking is minimal and quick, making this ideal for a weeknight dinner, but the beef must be thinly sliced.
In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street Backroads Italy,' we freeze the meat for about 20 minutes to firm it a bit, which allows a knife to glide through the grain. After a quick sear in a hot skillet, the steak slices go directly onto a bed of peppery arugula and sweet-tart tomatoes. We prefer tri-tip steak for this recipe, as it has great flavor and a tender texture.
Don't dress the arugula and tomatoes too far in advance or they will wilt and turn soggy. Wait until after the beef is sliced before tossing the veggies with the oil, lemon juice and salt. Also, don't stir the beef during the first three minutes of cooking. Allowing it to cook undisturbed will give the meat a chance to develop flavorful browning.
Balsamic vinegar, reduced as it deglazes the pan, acts as tangy-sweet dressing when combined with vegetables. Shaved Parmesan, along with black pepper and a final drizzle of olive oil, are perfect finishing touches.
Straccetti di Manzo
Start to finish: 45 minutes (25 minutes active)
Servings: 4 to 6
Ingredients:
1½ pounds beef tri-tip steak
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
5-ounce container baby arugula
1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more to serve
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
Parmesan cheese, for shaving
Directions:
Place the steak on a plate and freeze, uncovered, until partially frozen, about 20 minutes. Using a sharp knife, slice the beef against the grain on the diagonal no thicker than ¼ inch. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper; toss to coat. On a deep, wide platter, toss the arugula and tomatoes with 1 tablespoon of the oil, the lemon juice and ¼ teaspoon salt.
In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until barely smoking. Add the garlic and pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beef in an even layer; cook without stirring until only a little pinkness remains and some liquid has been released, about 3 minutes. Stir, redistribute in an even layer and cook until no longer pink, about 1 minute. Using tongs, place the steak on the vegetables, leaving the garlic in the pan.
Add the balsamic to the pan and bring to a simmer over medium-high; cook, scraping up any browned bits, until slightly reduced, about 1 minute. Discard the garlic; pour the balsamic over the steak. Shave Parmesan over the top, then finish with additional oil and black pepper.
EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap
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This steak salad is a trattoria staple and the perfect summer lunch
Straccetti di manzo, which translates roughly from the Italian to 'little rags of beef,' is a trattoria staple. The cooking is minimal and quick, making this ideal for a weeknight dinner, but the beef must be thinly sliced. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street Backroads Italy,' we freeze the meat for about 20 minutes to firm it a bit, which allows a knife to glide through the grain. After a quick sear in a hot skillet, the steak slices go directly onto a bed of peppery arugula and sweet-tart tomatoes. We prefer tri-tip steak for this recipe, as it has great flavor and a tender texture. Don't dress the arugula and tomatoes too far in advance or they will wilt and turn soggy. Wait until after the beef is sliced before tossing the veggies with the oil, lemon juice and salt. Also, don't stir the beef during the first three minutes of cooking. Allowing it to cook undisturbed will give the meat a chance to develop flavorful browning. Balsamic vinegar, reduced as it deglazes the pan, acts as tangy-sweet dressing when combined with vegetables. Shaved Parmesan, along with black pepper and a final drizzle of olive oil, are perfect finishing touches. Straccetti di Manzo Start to finish: 45 minutes (25 minutes active) Servings: 4 to 6 Ingredients: 1½ pounds beef tri-tip steak Kosher salt and ground black pepper 5-ounce container baby arugula 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more to serve 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 medium garlic cloves, smashed and peeled ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes ¼ cup balsamic vinegar Parmesan cheese, for shaving Directions: Place the steak on a plate and freeze, uncovered, until partially frozen, about 20 minutes. Using a sharp knife, slice the beef against the grain on the diagonal no thicker than ¼ inch. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper; toss to coat. On a deep, wide platter, toss the arugula and tomatoes with 1 tablespoon of the oil, the lemon juice and ¼ teaspoon salt. In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until barely smoking. Add the garlic and pepper flakes; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beef in an even layer; cook without stirring until only a little pinkness remains and some liquid has been released, about 3 minutes. Stir, redistribute in an even layer and cook until no longer pink, about 1 minute. Using tongs, place the steak on the vegetables, leaving the garlic in the pan. Add the balsamic to the pan and bring to a simmer over medium-high; cook, scraping up any browned bits, until slightly reduced, about 1 minute. Discard the garlic; pour the balsamic over the steak. Shave Parmesan over the top, then finish with additional oil and black pepper. EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at
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'Home restaurant' dining at Da Zia Pinuccia, Sant'Antioco, Sardinia, Italy Tom Mullen In June, Altantic bluefin tuna (called 'red tuna' because of the color of their flesh) are caught off the coast of Sant'Antioco. Prized for flavor, they pair well with red Carignan wine—itself sublime. To learn more about this wine I drove together with fifth generation Sant'Antioco winemaker Erica Verona and her father Stefano for twenty minutes to the island's second main town of Calasetta in the northwest. The vehicle passed lemon trees, towering cacti, howling dogs, olive groves and Indian figs as well as gardens planted with eggplants and fava beans. We parked in town and paced up Via Umberto, which in the past was a main street. Residents sometimes still lay out a long communal dinner table along this road, and require all neighborhood attendees to dress in white. As we walked, Erica spoke of her family. 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These wines can stand alone as beauties, with dark complex flavors that resemble a Sangiovese, chocolate notes similar to those from a Syrah and the slight herbaceousness of a Cabernet Franc. After the European Community decided to reduce low quality, high yield wine production in the 1980's, the number of grapevines diminished from 8.5 square miles in area (2,200 hectares) to today's 500 acres (200 hectares) on Sant'Antioco. Producers are now focused on lower yields and higher quality. Pariglia equestrian competition of Sant Antioco, Sardinia, Italy getty The island's vines are hardy, and many of the vines are old. Intriguingly, the sandy soils of Sant'Antioco prevented the spread of the phylloxera disease in the mid 19th centuryl which decimated grapevines worldwide. Today, most wines produced from Carignan on the island remain 'ungrafted' and do not need to be attached to any separate disease resistance rootstock, like most other grapevines on earth. Erica shared how she wants more visitors to sample the wines of Sant'Antioco. 'People don't know this island. They know Costa Smeralda in north, Here we have undiscovered beaches. There are buildings painted white and blue, like Greece but without the party vibe. Visitors like to walk around and take a towel to the beach. Living near the sea is almost like being on vacation all the time. It's a state of mind. People here know how to live, and not just during vacation. We should also try to make Sant'Antioco an enjoyable destination for wine.' [A companion article titled Sardinian Wines—Sculpted By Wind, Salt, Soil And Scrub, is here.] The following are tasting notes for various Sant'Antioco wines made from the Carignan grape. Tenuta Agus Binuforti. Rosato. 2022. 90+ points. Owned by Daniela Agus and her husband Daniele Garau. From the hot 2022 vintage. Dark cherry colored rosé. Aromas of wet limestone, golden syrup and light red fruit. Flavors include red cherries. A syrupy, easy to drink barbecue wine to pair with teriyaki shish kebab skewers. Lacking an acidic edge but gastronomic. Tenuta La Scogliera. Rüzò. Rosé. 2024. 90-91 points Light salmon/cherry color in this 12% alcohol rosé from a producer's name which means 'the cliff' because of the view from their vines. Aromas of mandarins, red cherries and candy cane. Minerality, slight salinity and light flavors with a voluptuous bright cherry and slight caramel finish. Pair with salmon or cod. Tenuta La Sabbiosa. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2019. 92+ points. First organically certified wine from Sant'Antioco. Fresh, fruit forward aromas of charcoal and slight caramel as well as maple syrup and maquis scrub. Somewhat complex with pronounced flavors of rich red fruit such as raspberries, as well as bacon and sage. Firm tannic backbone. Pair with charcuterie and grape leaf wrapped dolma. Winemaker Massimo Pusceddu of Tenuta la Sabbiosa, Sant'Antioco, Sardinia, Italy Tom Mullen Azienda Agricola Piede Franco. Bellesa Riserva. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2020. 91-92 points. Aged in French oak for one year with battonage stirring of lees every 25 days. Balanced, pleasant, generous aromas of fruit, maquis scrub and red plums. Semi complex wine includes an excellent mid palate with the heft of a Sangiovese and flavors that include red cherries, mocha and salty black Dutch dorp licorice. Tenuta La Sabbiosa. Superiore. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2019. 91-92 points. Hefty aromas of red plums, maraschino cherries and eucalyptus. Linear in the mouth with soft tannins, bright acidity, and a crunchy mid palate. Easy drinking and well balanced with a long finish. Pair with lentils and beef. Tenuta La Scogliera. Raije. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2021. 93-94 points. Perfumed, rich and layered aromas include florals, brownies, Amarone, lava cake and black cherries. Flavors akin to a right bank Bordeaux wine that is complex and layered with slight flavors of molasses and bacon and a hint of mint on the finish. Delicious dark layers in this gastronomic wine that was aged in steel with frequent battonage stirring. Azienda Agricola Eleonora Piga. Mudo. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2021. 92+ points. Aromas of orange peels, eucalyptus and maquis scrub as well as a light perfume of violets and lavender. Rich and angular yet also rounded, with a classic Carignan tannic sheen. Winemaker Eleonora Piga of Mudo wines, Sant'Antioco, Sardinia, Italy Tom Mullen Carpante. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2021. 92+ points. Rich aromas of chocolate, gorse and sage. A meaty and delicious set of flavors that include dark brownies, as well as Amarone and sultanas on the finish. Balanced with suave tannins. A gastronomic wine. Azienda Agricola Piede Franco. Bellesa Riserva. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2021. 93-94 points. Rich aromas of Amarone, maquis scrub, black licorice and eucalyptus as well as wild fennel. A dark star that is balanced and elegant, rich and layered with chocolate flavors like that of a Baboso Negro wine from the Canary Islands, as well as rich bacon/minestrone hues; reminiscent of a Syrah from northern Rhone. Bentesali. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2021. 92 points. Linear aromas of dark chocolate and flavors that include wild fennel and stroganoff. Complex and enticing. Xabarra. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2022. 93-94 points. Hefty aromas of brownies, red plums, Amarone and sultanas. Suave tannins in a layered mid palate that includes flavors of figs and red plums. Crisp acidity. Tenuta Agus – Binuforti. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2022. 93+ points. Dark and hefty aromas of Amarone, figs and lava cake. Rich, layered and balanced. Winemaker Daniela Agus of Tenuta Agus - Binuforti, Sant'Antioco, Sardinia, Italy Tom Mullen Bentesali. Santomoro. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2022. 93-94 points. The name of this winery means 'salty wind.' Vines growing on black silt and sand are lined parallel to the direction of the mistral wind from the north. Aged for up to eight months in new large oak barrels. Aromas of petrol, tar, red cherries and oranges. Extracted and classic. Ripe rich dark fruit flavors—think Sangiovese with the heft of a Syrah. Tenute La Scogliera. Raije. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2023. 92-93 points. This includes the same complexity of the 2021, but is fresher for easier drinking. Rich red and ripe fruit aromas, as well as those of elicriso and red cherries. Structured and statured tannins but still light and fresh. XA Barra. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2023. 92-93 points. Co-owner Catteo Bettina is a fourth generation female winemaker who uses massal selection to grow vines on sandy soils. Wild aromas of green grass and sage and tobacco, as we as fig newtons and Provence herbs. Gentle tannins in this well balanced wine with flavors of brownies, red fruit and blackberries. Slight ginger and sage on the finish. Brisk underlying, supporting acidity. Binu Forti. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2023. 92-93 points. Aromas of maquis scrub in this wine that shines with red fruit aromas and includes mouth watering acidity. Flavors include raspberries and black licorice and slight menthol. Azienda Agricola Piede Franco. Bellesa Riserva. DOC Carignano del Sulcis. 2022. 94 points. Stunning label image made from a photograph of winemaker Roberto Matzeu's wife when vacationing in Tunisia. Aromas of red cherries and cedar. Rich, brilliant, crunchy and comlplex mid palate with flavors of lava cake and a slight mint finish. Well structured tannins balanced with supporting bright acidity. Pair with shish kebab or with pasta and truffles.
