11-08-2025
4 must-see destinations in Australia's Northern Territory
I used to think I knew Australia. I grew up here, after all. Ten years ago, I swapped sunshine for grey skies, leaving Australia for London to chase something new – and, unknowingly, leaving a part of myself behind.
Since then, I've felt like a square trying to fit into a triangle, yet never quite slotting in. Then I caught a flight to Darwin, the capital of the Northern Territory and gateway to Australia, and something shifted.
Within 24 hours I was waking up to the chorus of cackling cockatoos and walking around barefoot and carefree – feeling, for the first time in a long time, completely like myself.
The Northern Territory is a side of Australia you don't usually see; a world away from social media-famous beaches and viral restaurants, it's untamed, deeply rooted in culture and profoundly moving.
I spent a week travelling through waterfall-filled national parks and immersing myself in Aboriginal culture on a journey from Darwin to Kakadu and what followed were some of the most meaningful travel experiences I've ever had in a country I realised I had yet to discover.
If you're looking to go beyond the usual Aussie itinerary and see a country that's drenched in heritage and adventure, let this be your guide.
I'll admit that I expected to land in a sleepy outpost when we got to Darwin; however, I was embarrassingly wrong. Bursting with art, culture and a wave of foodie spots, the Northern Territory's capital is not far behind its counterparts in southern Australia and worth giving two to three days at least.
First on the list was a self-guided art tour along some of the city's laneways – famed for housing impressive murals and visual works. Every year around May and June the Darwin Street Art Festival (DSAF) lands in the capital for a three-week celebration in which entire buildings are transformed into open-air canvases and narrow streets become patchworks of colour – the sheer scale and diversity of art blew me away.
Knowing our time there would be short-ish and sweet, we made sure to catch the Thursday night Mindil Beach Sunset Market. Infused with the city's laid-back, anything-goes energy, it's a Top End staple brimming with delicious food stations (don't sleep on Calamari King), arts and crafts stalls and live music. The atmosphere had such a buzz, it flipped all my misconceptions about Darwin and felt a bit like Camden in the summer but with tropical weather and better sunsets.
As the sun dipped toward the horizon, the crowd started to drift from market to beach, as if responding to a call that wasn't heard but felt. Locals and tourists alike stretched out on makeshift picnic rugs with cameras (and smartphones) poised at the ready and just as the last sliver of sun disappeared into the Arafura Sea, the whole beach erupted into applause. It struck me then how differently time moves – back in London the pace rarely slows, but in Darwin people take time to just sit, breathe and watch the sky change colour.
Just a stone's throw away from the markets is Mindil Beach Casino Resort, a beachfront hotel set among tropical gardens. I could have happily spent a week in my Superior Lagoon Pool room, sipping on punchy rum cocktails and sunbathing on my private deck, but alas, only so much exploring can be done from the swim-up bar.
For something a little more low-key (read: affordable but still v polished), the Adina Apartment Hotel is a chic alternative. My cute one-bedroom apartment came with a fully equipped kitchen, sea views, and – wait for it – a washing machine and dryer combo! Did this discovery make me squeal with excitement? Possibly, but when you travel as much as I do, being able to wash your garms is truly a godsend.
Before departing Darwin, you'll want to carve out time to visit Aboriginal Bush Traders, a not-for-profit social enterprise that supports local Indigenous communities. The eclectic café serves a modern take on traditional bush foods like lemon myrtle and pepperberry, while the on-site gallery and shop are home to curated collections of authentic and ethically sourced Aboriginal art, skincare and stylish hand-crafted homewares. Everything reflects the stories, traditions, and artistry of the Indigenous makers who pour their heart into every detail.
After a whirlwind tour of Darwin's creative scene, it was time to go deeper into the country and hit the highway east towards Kakadu National Park, one of the most culturally significant and naturally spectacular places in Australia.
Encompassing wetlands and rugged landscapes across its nearly 20,000 square kilometres, this dual-listed UNESCO World Heritage site holds a powerful connection to more than 65,000 years of Aboriginal history.
I grew up seeing photos of ancient Aboriginal rock art in history books and behind glass in museums, but standing right in front of the Bininj people's rock art at Ubirr, some of which is up to 20,000 years old, is something I'll never forget. Kakadu is the sort of place that demands silence. Not just because the air is peacefully quiet, but because it's sacred and you can feel it. The paintings aren't just relics, they're living knowledge systems that still guide, teach, and honour connection to Country.
Give yourself an hour or two to follow the rock art trail – if you're anything like me you'll need the occasional moment to stop and soak it in – then linger at the top of a rocky outcrop to watch the sun melt into the Nadab Floodplain and turn the entire landscape golden. Something about the stillness of the whole experience and the ancient beauty, made me feel more grounded and calm than I had in years.
When it comes to accommodation in Kakadu, there are two standout options – the decidedly quirky Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel (named for its charming crocodile-shaped structure) and the oasis-style rooms at the Cooinda Lodge which itself is hidden beneath a canopy of trees.
Opting for a more immersive, nature-focused stay, I checked into one of the Yellow Water Villas at Cooinda Lodge and stepped into a safari tent that came with all the fancy trimmings of a luxury hotel: air conditioning, a kitchenette, big, comfy beds, and a private deck hidden within the trees. Being more of a hotel-over-self-contained-room kind of traveller this was incredible.
While visits to the renowned waterfalls can be weather dependent (note to self: check Kakadu Access Report daily on next trip), jaunts along the many trails and winding paths are open come rain or shine. For anyone who thinks they've seen walking tours in the UK, you haven't seen anything until you've walked Kakadu.
Two of my favourites were the Nanguluwurr Art Site and the Nawurlandja Lookout. Something about trailing through savanna woodland before arriving at a quiet Aboriginal rock art site set up with hand stencils and hunting scenes felt incredibly personal and quietly profound – like walking into someone's story. On the other hand, the short (albeit steep) walk up Nawurlandja delivered sweeping views over Anbangbang Billabong that brought a shift of energy I felt in my bones.
Of course, a trip to Kakadu isn't complete without taking a Yellow Water Cruise, either at sunrise or sunset. Gliding through the wetlands as the sky explodes in colour is not something forgotten easily – keen eyes may even spot a crocodile or two silently lurking in the reeds, while choirs of rare birds bring the billabong to life with sound.
Ready for the next fill of outdoor exploration we made the drive to the tucked-away haven of Finniss River Lodge, a private wilderness lodge located in the middle of a 50,000-acre, family-run cattle station that's just a 90-minutes away from Darwin.
Settling in was made easy thanks to the fact our room is one of six and service is beyond attentive. I made quick use of the infinity pool before preparing for what would quickly become one of the memorable parts of the trip – a guided airboat tour. They're either super-relaxing or exhilarating (or both if you're lucky enough to have a driver like Pete). Nothing compared to zooming through the Finniss River floodplain past everything from water lilies and turtles to excited birds. Crocs were spotted. Screams were screamed. It was epic, and I loved every second of it.
Later that evening, after a quick refresh and dip in the pool to regain tranquility, it was time for the Cows and Canapés experience, a sunset buggy tour through the working cattle station that does pretty much what it says on the tin. The Brahman cows that call this place home are so gentle in nature – it's no wonder this experience is a favourite among guests. Over topped up glasses, we learned all about the station's over 30-year history and the generations that had shaped it.
Now, let's not beat around the bush: Finniss River Lodge isn't budget travel. But for those who can't stay overnight, their Long Lunch Package promises an equally magical experience. For $330 you get return transfers, a cocktail on arrival, canapés and a three-course lunch – plus four hours of free-flowing drinks. Add-ons, like a scenic helicopter ride or an airboat tour, are also available. You can laze by the infinity pool, watch the floodplains shimmer in the sun, and experience the next-level luxury Finniss is famous for without the whole stay.
While Kakadu might steal the headlines on a national park front (and understandably so), Litchfield National Park is the unsung hero of the Top End. Just under an hour and a half drive away from Darwin, it's easily accessible and renowned for its dramatic landscapes and swim-friendly spots. An ancient land shaped by water, its plunge pools, waterfalls and rocky escarpments sit on ground that has been cared for by Traditional Owners for thousands of years and their stories are still embedded in every rock and river.
Wangi Falls, with its two streams of water spilling dramatically into a massive pool, is one of the more popular spots – and for good reason. You can safely swim right up to the falls, and there's also a short walk that can take you right to the top of the falls during dry season. More in-the-know travellers opt for Florence Falls – a less crowded but equally stunning alternative to Wangi found at the end of a short forest hike.
Tolmer Falls, on the flipside, isn't swimmable but is still 100% worth a quick stop. Jaw-dropping views of a narrow gorge await at the lookout, where you might also spot the rare orange leaf-nosed bat.
Given the adventurous nature of the majority of the trip, it felt right to wrap things up with some time at Buley Rockhole – the Northern Territory's answer to a spa day in the form of cascading pools that vary in depth and temperature. When one starts to get busy, you can just float down to the next pool.
Flying out of Darwin, red earth still clinging to my boots, I felt something I hadn't in a long time: a kind of quiet clarity. This trip wasn't just about ticking off national parks or chasing sunsets (though there were plenty of those), it was about reconnecting with the land, with culture, and with myself. I came home dirtier, frecklier and, honestly, better for it. If you're craving something real, something that makes you feel deeply and think differently, then the Top End is waiting for you. Just don't be surprised if it changes you a little, too.
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See more from Kelsey's travels on Instagram and her blog.
