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Telegraph
09-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
‘Rodent never tasted so good': My 14-course meal at the world's best restaurant
The very first dish leaves me so baffled I have to ask the waiter which bits I am supposed to eat. The only edible part, it turns out, is the tiny blob of brown foam, made from Amazonian chorizo, perched on top of a spiky bed of desiccated scales from the arapaima, one of the world's largest freshwater fish. Each the size of a credit card, the scales vaguely resemble prawn crackers; it's a shame, I think ruefully, that they are there purely for decoration. This is the first mouthful of a 14-course tasting menu at Maido, a restaurant in Lima's touristy Miraflores district (just a short walk from my home of the past 15 years) that specialises in Peruvian-Japanese cuisine, known as Nikkei. Even by the stellar standards of Peru's gastronomic boom, Maido is not just another high-end eatery. After years of bouncing around the top 10, in June 2025 it finally achieved the number-one spot at the World's 50 Best Restaurants awards. Never mind Michelin (which has yet to include South America in its star system) – the 50 Best, voted on by more than 1,000 industry insiders, is arguably the gold standard for international culinary excellence. Maido, hidden behind a cluster of Eucalyptus trunks on an otherwise nondescript street corner, can thus claim to offer the most superlative gourmet experience on planet earth. Its chef-owner, Mitsuharu 'Micha' Tsumura, is now the Leo Messi of gastronomy. And I am here to soak up his skills. The waiter recommends I pick up the hors d'oeuvre and down it in one. As I pop the foamy morsel into my mouth, it seems to simultaneously vaporise on my tongue and explode into improbably distinct flavours and textures. Seasoned with annatto (derived from the seeds of the achiote tree), Brazil nuts, the juice of a local mandarin-citron hybrid, sweet chilli peppers and yacón (a crisp tuber from the Andean foothills), the foam clearly delivers a porky flavour. But it also gives off subtle tones of smoke, citrus and fresh fruit, along with layers of umami and sweetness that feels familiar but which I cannot identify. Ethereally light, the jungle-inspired chorizo concoction somehow also manages to have a faint, satisfying crunch. What follows is a virtuoso voyage across Peru's dazzlingly diverse geography – without ever stepping out from beneath the forest of ropes that hangs over the dozen, highly-coveted tables in Maido's dining room. Although it is hard to make out, they portray the Hinomaru, the Japanese national flag. As new diners enter the dimly-lit space they are greeted by staff with a chorus of 'maido', meaning 'welcome' in the Osaka dialect of Tsumura's ancestors. Diners are then swept from the 1,500-mile Pacific coast over the soaring Andes and down into the endless rainforests of the Peruvian Amazon and their myriad exotic fruits. There are sea urchins and scallops served with basil oil, and a sauce made from another rare tuber – arracacia – blended with tumbo, an acidic fruit once used, before the Spanish brought citrus to the Americas, to make a precursor of ceviche. Then comes arapaima butifarra – slivers of a fishy cold cut in a diminutive bun, flavoured with an emulsion of sweet chilli peppers, karashi (a Japanese mustard) and honey. And Cuy San, or san guinea pig – Tsumura's haute-cuisine take on the fluffy (but, in this neck of the woods, very edible) Andean staple. A diminutive, delicately-battered leg is served with chilli peppers and greens; rodent never tasted so good. Towards the end of the marathon feast there is charqui, a kind of Andean beef jerky but made with wagyu and garnished with huacatay, a minty marigold used widely in Peruvian cooking. All of it is washed down with a New World wine pairing that runs from a semillon made from old vines in Argentine Patagonia, to two different sakes. The service is friendly and efficient but never fawning. Maido is actually the second Lima restaurant in three years to claim the top spot in the 50 Best, after Virgilio Martínez's Central in 2023 (now in the rankings's hall of fame and withdrawn from future consideration), also a 10-minute walk from my home, but in the other direction. The Nikkei emporium leads a cohort of four restaurants from the Peruvian capital in the 2025 list. London, by comparison, has just two in this year's 50 Best, the genre-defying Ikoyi at 15, and Kol, offering Mexican fusion, at 49. Like most top Peruvian restaurants, Maido achieves this at relatively competitive prices. My tasting menu with wine pairing came to 1880 Sols (roughly £390), including service. That's rather more than I am used to paying for lunch. But it's also hardly the arm and leg that many of Maido's international peers charge. The story of how Peru, a poster child for political corruption and underdevelopment, came to overshadow gastronomic powerhouses such as Paris, Tokyo and New York is rooted in a national food culture that is highly original and diverse, and genuinely includes Peruvians of all races and classes. That culture is itself the product of breathtaking geography as well as immigration from across the globe, and even, believe it or not, the brutal legacy of the Maoist terrorists of the Shining Path. Peru's natural pantry is unrivalled, thanks to its tropical location and the Andes's vast altitudinal variation. The country is home to just about every ecosystem, and therefore every crop, plant and game species on earth. Successive waves of immigrants, not all of them willing, from Spain, Italy, Africa, France, China and Japan, among others, have each left their stamp. So too distinct pre-Columbian traditions from the desert coast, mountains and jungle. No Peruvian kitchen, for example, would be complete without a wok or various uniquely local ajíes or chillies. Then a generation of young chefs, including Tsumura, trained in the 1990s at top culinary schools from San Francisco to Rome and Tokyo. Many did so to flee a national collapse partly triggered by the Shining Path's bloodletting. On their return, they began applying their new, cutting-edge techniques and ideas on Peru's extensive pantheon of home recipes. Adding some extra spice is the national propensity for breaking the rules. It's a trait that makes Peruvians both Latin America's worst drivers and best cooks. Mexico – whose wonderful food I do not underestimate, having lived there for four happy years – is a clear but distant second. Eventually, after three hours of what becomes a quickfire blur of dazzling delicacies, I emerge back into the grey light of Lima's overcast, southern winter. I'm satisfied full, there's no question, but it will take me days to fully process the experience, perhaps the way one might after visiting an exhibition by a truly great artist. The highlight dish? Tsumara's nuanced take on Peru's national dish, ceviche, titled Sea and Pistachios. Miniscule chunks of fortuno, a small local fish species, were served with diced squid and snails, floating with nuts and avocado pieces in a light, tangy chilled broth. And does Maido live up to its new reputation as the 'world's best restaurant'? I can't say. But the meal is one I will remember for the rest of my life – which is not a bad thing to say of your local.
Bloomberg
02-07-2025
- Health
- Bloomberg
Peru Fines Lima Clinic $190,000 for Leak of Shakira's Medical Records
A Peruvian regulator hit private health-care provider Auna SA with a stiff fine for the unauthorized disclosure of medical records belonging to popular singer Shakira. Susalud, which oversees Peru's health-care industry, said Wednesday it imposed a fine of 668,750 soles ($188,355) on the Auna-controlled Delgado Clinic. Located in Lima, the private hospital is popular with the country's elites and its main location is in the wealthy neighborhood of Miraflores, where it boasts a helicopter landing pad.
Forbes
02-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
8 Things To Do In Lima
If you have time, explore Lima's beautiful Miraflores district. This is the last installment in a four-part journey exploring Peru's dramatic landscapes — from captivating cities to pristine coastlines to towering Andean peaks. (Read parts one, two and three.) Peru's largest airport, Jorge Chávez International in Lima, unveiled a new terminal on June 1 that's three times the size of its predecessor. The $2.4 billion expansion dramatically increases capacity, welcoming an additional 40 million passengers per year, who likely are bound for ancient marvels like Cuzco and Machu Picchu. But don't just pass through — Lima itself offers rich experiences well worth a dedicated stopover. Lima is a fascinating destination. It's the second-largest desert capital in the world after Cairo, yet it hugs the Pacific Ocean and has three rivers running through it. With a population of 11.2 million, Lima ranks as Peru's largest city by far — about a third of the country lives in the metropolitan area. And it has everything from ancient ruins to hot new restaurants. If you're on a layover and want to get a taste of what the vibrant city has to offer, visit some of these top spots: Visit the pristine Pacific coastline. One of Lima's best features is its Pacific coastline. If you don't have time to surf or swim, take in the water views from El Malecón, a six-mile coastal path that cuts through various neighborhoods and connects green spaces, cafés and more. Get all warm and fuzzy at this green space. Along El Malecón in Miraflores, a clifftop neighborhood that overlooks the ocean, stop by this park with curved, colorful mosaic walls and 'LOVE' spelled out on the grass with flowers and plants. While everyone from families to solo travelers frequent the park, it's meant for couples. Appropriately inaugurated on February 14, 1993, Love Park features El Beso, a larger-than-life sculpture from famed Peruvian artist Víctor Delfín of lovers passionately kissing. Go back in time with a stop at Huaca Pucllana. You don't have to climb the mountaintops of Machu Picchu to see Peru's famous ancient ruins. In the middle of upscale Miraflores across from the modern Carnal steakhouse is an unexpected find: an archeological site called Huaca Pucllana. The pyramid served as a pre-Inca temple and played a part in various ceremonies. The structure is surprisingly still intact — it was made using the bookshelf technique, which stacked the adobe bricks vertically to protect the pyramid from Lima's earthquakes. Marvel at the well-preserved pyramid and visit the onsite museum to learn more. Dédalo Arte y Artesania is an essential stop. The pedestrian-friendly Barranco serves as the artistic heart of Lima. Writers, poets and artists live and work in this bohemian district filled with vivid European-influenced architecture amid palm trees. Come here to peruse spots like Dédalo Arte y Artesania, a mansion-turned-gallery that showcases everything from jewelry to furniture made by Peruvian artists. Walk to the back of the gallery to discover a charming brick courtyard with an ancient ficus tree's leafy branches and origami bird installations dangling over café tables. It's a great place to refuel after a day of exploring Barranco. Make another stop at Jade Rivera World, a gallery dedicated to the eponymous Peruvian painter, ceramicist, sculptor and muralist. The multi-talented Rivera's work revolves around themes of Latin identity and the environment — his El Hogar de un Suspiro ('the home of a sigh')mural on the building's side, for example, shows a man removing a heart-shaped face mask to reveal a colorful bird. That's not the only street art you'll encounter in Barranco. Walk around for a revolving exhibit of colorful graffiti adorning buildings, bridges and more. Look for Lima-born artist Bronik's women-centric murals, like Recia('strong'), where a girl struggles to hold a basket on her shoulders filled with books, vegetables, people and other responsibilities. Make a wish on this bridge. This Barranco attraction was built in the 1870s to connect two sides of a ravine. It's a favorite spot for photos and some magic. According to local lore, if visitors cross the 144-foot wooden pedestrian bridge while holding their breath, their wish will come true. While tourists flock to Love Park, you'll find locals strolling through Olive Park in the financial district, San Isidro. The less-crowded green space offers an oasis with walkways that take you past more than 1,600 olive trees, which the Spanish brought over more than 400 years ago, and a pond with fish and turtles. Keep an eye out for the park's more than 60 bird varieties, like the noisy scrub blackbird or the bright-gold saffron finch. Sip the country's most famous drink at The Westin Lima Hotel & Convention Center. When in Lima, you must try the country's most famous drink, the pisco sour. It combines pisco — a Peruvian grape distillate that's considered a Cultural Heritage of the nation — with lime juice, egg white, simple syrup and a few dashes of Angostura bitters as a garnish on the foamy top. The cocktail was invented in the 1920s by American expat Victor Morris in Lima's Morris Bar. The Westin Lima Hotel & Convention Center's Lobby Lounge Bar serves all kinds of classic cocktails and mocktails, but glowing tall walls of artfully displayed bottles of pisco point you toward the local spirit. The pisco offerings, ranging from a pisco mule to an algarrobina (similar to eggnog but with pisco and Peruvian carob), are the most popular orders. We sat at the white marble-topped bar and enjoyed the sweet and tart pisco sour underneath sprawling murals with stylized characters, like a mermaid, drinking — perhaps pisco. As the culinary capital of South America, Lima is a draw just for its food. Fine-dining institutions like Astrid and Gastón, Central, Mayta and Maido showcase the best of Peruvian cuisine and its different facets. But you don't need to dine at an upscale restaurant with a tasting menu to sample the country's gastronomy. Seek out local street food like anticuchos, grilled beef heart skewers; butifarra, a sandwich stuffed with country ham and salsa criolla; and aji de gallina, shredded chicken in a creamy, spicy sauce. And save room for desserts like picarones, pumpkin and sweet potato doughnuts drenched in chancaca honey, and mazamorra morada, a rice-pudding-like dish made with purple corn and fruit.
The Sun
29-05-2025
- General
- The Sun
Another Brit vanishes in Peru as Jamie Cooke isn't seen in 3 days & family fly out for search – amid Hannah Almond case
A DESPERATE hunt has been launched to find a missing Brit who suddenly disappeared in Peru just days after Hannah Almond was found in the country. Jamie Cooke, 39, was last seen in the city of Miraflores on Monday. 6 6 6 His family has now launched a desperate appeal to find the missing Brit in the South American country. It comes as Brit backpacker Hannah Almond, who also disappeared in Peru, was found sleeping rough on the streets. Sister Jade McKay said she flew out to Peru with her partner in a bid to find her missing brother. In a public posting urging people to help find Jamie, she wrote: "My brother, Jamie Cooke, 39 years old, is missing in Peru. "I have travelled from the UK to search for him and am currently in Miraflores with my partner. "We are very worried and would appreciate any information from UK citizens travelling in the area. "Please share and contact us if you have any news." Ms McKay shared two pictures of Jamie as part of her appeal to find him. And anyone with information about the Brit's disappearance has been urged to come forward as soon as possible. An FCDO spokesperson told The Sun: 'We are supporting the family of a British man reported as missing in Peru and are in contact with his local authorities.' The Sun has reached out to Jamie's family for further details. Mum of missing Scots teen Cole Cooper, 19, reveals living 'nightmare' in heartbreaking interview over his disappearance It comes as Brit woman Hannah Almond continues to live on the streets after she became too terrified to trust anyone. Ms Almond, 32, disappeared after a violent robbery left her without a passport, phone, or money – and sparked a terrifying mental health spiral. The yoga-loving fashion graduate from Grimsby had travelled to Cusco in March for a spiritual retreat to 'find herself', but ended up living under a bridge with an elderly homeless man. Locals torched her few remaining belongings in a sickening attack. After three days without contact, friends feared the worst. But a man she met briefly in Lima caught a flight to Cusco and 'just started wandering the streets asking after her' until he found her slumped on the pavement. Despite being located, Ms Almond is still sleeping rough and refusing support – including food, shelter, and help from the British embassy – due to trauma from the robbery that's left her terrified of strangers. One of her pals has now flown from the UK in a desperate bid to persuade her to return home before she disappears again. Piero Villanueva, the man who found the Brit, revealed their emotional reunion and said she immediately recognised him and began crying. He told local media: 'I have just found her. She is safe and well. 'Hannah recognised me and approached me crying and I asked her to leave with me. Thanks God she's safe.' 6 6 Piero, who met Hannah briefly in Lima earlier in her trip, travelled to Cusco after seeing news of her disappearance on social media. 'I decided to travel to Cusco at the request of her friends and family,' he said. 'I wanted to come and help find her and assist her because she didn't have money or her passport and other documents because she had been robbed.' He confirmed he is in touch with Hannah's family, the British Consul, and a friend flying in from the UK. 'A friend of Hannah is arriving in Cusco today and I'm talking with him to be able to assist her,' he said. 'We have to see now what's going to happen, talk with Hannah's mum and see what she wants to do,' he added. 'Hannah and her mum haven't spoken yet. I'm talking with her mum but she's an elderly lady and we don't want to worry her anymore.' 6
Boston Globe
14-05-2025
- Politics
- Boston Globe
2-year-old girl reunites with her mother in Venezuela after US deportation
The U.S. government had In this photo released by the Miraflores press office, Venezuelan President Nicolas Maduro and his wife first lady Cilia Flores, left, sit with 2-year-old Maikelys Espinoza and mother Yorely Escarleth Bernal Inciarte. Zurimar Campos/Associated Press Advertisement The girl's mother was deported to Venezuela on April 25. Meanwhile, U.S. authorities sent her father to a maximum-security prison in El Salvador in March under Trump's invocation of an 18th-century wartime law to deport hundreds of immigrants. For years, the government of Maduro had mostly refused the entry of immigrants deported from the U.S. But since Trump took office this year, hundreds of Venezuelan migrants, including some 180 who spent up to 16 days at the U.S. naval base in Guantanamo Bay, Cuba, have been deported to their home country. The Trump administration has said the Venezuelans sent to Guantanamo and El Salvador are members of the Tren de Aragua, but has offered little evidence to back up the allegation. Advertisement Pro-government supporters hold up signs with the image of Maikelys Espinoza at a rally in Caracas, on May 1. Ariana Cubillos/Associated Press Maduro on Wednesday thanked Trump and his envoy for special missions, Richard Grenell, for allowing Maikelys to reunite with her mother in a 'profoundly humane' act. Grenell met with Maduro in Caracas shortly after Trump took office. 'There have been and will be differences, but it is possible, with God's blessing, to move forward and resolve many issues,' Maduro said, alluding to the deep divisions between his and Trump's governments. 'I hope and aspire that very soon we can also rescue Maikelys' father and the 253 Venezuelans who are in El Salvador.'
