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Times
26-05-2025
- Times
The northeastern Spanish city with a surprising tapas scene
A tourist with a map doesn't go unnoticed in Zaragoza. This architectural powerhouse — Spain's fifth-largest city — remains gloriously uncrowded, a masterpiece hiding in plain sight between Madrid and Barcelona. Once the Roman colony of Cesaraugusta, it's a modestly handsome stronghold today, dominated by the formidable Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, whose ochre domes cast a honeyed glow over the River Ebro. Steps away, the walls of La Seo Cathedral glint almost competitively, their complex Mudéjar brickwork echoing centuries of Christian, Islamic and Jewish influence. The tapas scene here puts overhyped Barcelona to shame. At El Tubo's cramped maze of bars, locals jostle good-naturedly for bechamel-oozing croquetas and garlicky gambas, paying prices that would make Madrileños weep with envy. A warning: avoid the Fiestas del Pilar (October 4-13) when the city swells. A million pilgrims, three-storey flower offerings, and round-the-clock processions are not for the faint-hearted. For the rest of the year, Zaragoza extends that increasingly rare European luxury: unvarnished spirit. • Morning: Explore La Magdalena district• Lunch: La Ternasca• Afternoon: Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar• Drink at: Bodegas Almau • Evening: Explore El Tubo district• Dinner: La Republicana Morning: Palacio de la AljeferiaLunch: Contigo Pan Y CebollaAfternoon: Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del CarmenDrink at: LinaceroEvening: Museo del TeatroDinner: Montal • The central La Magdalena district blends medieval roots with a bohemian spirit. Meandering, cobbled streets are punctuated by art, independent bars and local legends like Quiteria Martín, a century-old toy shop heaving with party ephemera. Stop at Bar Entalt for controversial pineapple croquetas, a copa of vino tinto (the local Garnacha is violet nectar), and soak in the neighbourhood's laid-back, rebellious energy ( • The Basilica De Nuestra Señora Del Pilar with its Goya frescoes and sacred icon, is the real city show-stopper — a vast aerodrome of devotion and artistry. Take a lift up its northwest tower for the ultimate city vista, then cross the lion-flanked Stone Bridge at sunset for a baclit audience with this extraordinary monolith (basilica entrance free, lift £5; • Spend a cultured hour at the Palacio de la Aljaferia, a fortified Islamic castle blessed with intricate carved ceilings, and mini-me Alhambra courtyards. Once a symbol of Moorish rule, later reshaped by Christian kings, it's a compelling example of glimpse into Spain's layered past. Go for local hero Francisco Goya, whose paintings have been transferred here from the city museum. Not his ultimate work, granted, but close, nonetheless and it's free on the first Sunday and Monday of the month (£6; • El Tubo is Zaragoza's tapas playground, a district of tight alleys, tighter flavours and endless charm. At El Champi, they do one thing, but they do it well: oil-spitting garlic mushrooms, crowned with prawns, and the kind of 'secret' parsley sauce that wouldn't look out of place on pie and mash. Keep it to one piece, then explore these streets, topping up occasionally with regional Somontano wine, before more substantial fare (tapas from £2; @elchampizgz21). • Remarkably overlooked, the 1960s modernist chapel at Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen is a masterclass in style and spirit. A soaring needle tower and brutalist lines make it an architectural icon, but it's the beguiling interior which is the main draw. Studding the vast western wall like celestial fruit gums, kaleidoscopic glass floods the space with beams of lime and purple. If God is a DJ, then this is his crib (free; • The history-grabbing Museo del Teatro takes visitors back to ancient Caesaraugusta, the former Roman name of Zaragoza, with its stylish reveal of the city's once grand amphitheatre. Stone seating, stage foundations, and tangible exhibits bring the past back to life. Tucked beneath the city, it's a quiet yet powerful reminder of Zaragoza's deep roots in drama and empire (£4; • 11 of the best places to visit in Spain This smart, meaty specialist reimagines Ternasco de Aragón (lamb) in unexpected ways: think rich, lamb-filled gyozas and taste-baiting churrasquitos, small pieces of meat barbecued to perfection. Highlights include the regional lacquered chops and wok-fried shoulder. Permanently packed, this is a bar that honours the Aragonese sheep from wool to bone. And not a drop of mint sauce in sight (tapas from £4 a piece; Bodegas Almau, a boisterous Zaragoza favourite since 1870, is renowned for its vinegared tapas and salty anchovies, paired with more than 800 wines. There's a tight clan at the helm here, dispensing wisecracks and vermouth with equal vigour. On warmer nights the crowd spills on to an adjacent terrace, while sister bar Ceci's, opposite, offers a modern spin on the family's beloved legacy (£6 for vermouth and anchovies; The signature twist at this camp, bric-a-chic classic is Spanish tapas arranged on tiered English high-tea plates, transforming pintxos, tortilla and jamon into towers of Mary Poppins-style hospitality. A perennial local favourite, La Republicana can best be described as a car-boot brasserie, walls lined with vintage radios and crackly jazz filling the gaps (from £18 for 12 tapas; Contigo pan y cebolla ('with you, bread and onions') is the Spanish saying that expresses loyalty through hard times. True to form, the food here is unconditionally lovely, especially the remarkably silky risotto. Owners Francisco and Pilar run a tight ship, delivering wholesome plates with characteristic finesse. A cast of fleshy portraits stare down at you from lofty walls. It's eccentric, efficient and one of the city's best (mains from £10; Linacero Discos, a record store and bar-café, is the go-to weekend haunt for cold beer and rock of all persuasions. It's within yards of the starchy fashion stores of Plaza los Sitios, but it feels a world away. Try the local, melon-heavy cava, or Aragon's regional Ambar beer (from £2; Founded in 1919, gastro-hub Montal occupies a 15th-century palacio townhouse in the charming Plaza de San Felipe, compromising five distinct areas. Gorge between the fine-dining Restaurante Montal, a gourmet shop, La Despensa, for casual bites, La Bodega with an extensive wine selection, and a museum dedicated to the Torre Nueva, the Pisa-like tower that once stood in the square outside (set menu from £44; • Read our full guide to Spain No frills, low billsThere's a distinct overkill of varnished pine, but this honest, unflashy hotel offers decent, wallet-friendly accommodation bang in the heart of town. It's steps away from the magnificent Plaza del Pilar, and also an olive's throw from the impressively restored art nouveau Mercado Central. Skip breakfast and start your day here among locals sampling pastries, regional cheeses, and better than average coffee (room-only doubles from £75; Infinite comfort, in the heart of the cityThis sleek city refuge is a hotel with a hug, a place where service feels genuinely benevolent. From June, a rooftop infinity pool brings respite from the urban sprawl, while the venerated Melia breakfast is reassuringly up to scratch, with deftly fried eggs and proper croissants putting the morning world to rights. Dozens died when fire struck the building in 1979 (room 501 is rumoured to be haunted) but there's nothing remotely scary about this modern-day crash pad (B&B doubles from £110; Old-school Spanish sophisticatePart of the refined local Palafox group, the Alfonso is an impressive looking beast with an elegant, cool marble interior and obtuse modern art strewn around the building. 'New York' loft suites elicit a Mad Men mid-century edge, and there's a modest free minibar to plunder. The hotel's crown jewel is its rooftop pool, which serves goose-bump views to the shimmering Basilica del Pilar, an almost Disney-esque sight come nightfall (B&B suites from £250; • 12 of the most beautiful places in Spain Ryanair offers direct flights from London Stansted, taking 2 hours 15 minutes. One-stop flights are available from Manchester and London Luton via European hubs. Alternatively, fly to Barcelona and take a high-speed AVE train to Zaragoza in less than 90 minutes. Zaragoza Airport is 12km from the city, with buses and car rentals available. Travel passes are available for both tram and bus networks, but neither includes travel to and from the airport. Single fares are £5. Zaragoza hosted Expo 2008, where sustainable development was a key theme. Nearly two decades later, the city has caught up with its own vision of the future. An expanding fleet of electric buses and a modern tram system connect key parts of the city, while a low-emission zone in the historic centre promotes cleaner air and easier movement. Visitors can explore comfortably without a car, although the city is a good jumping off point for a drive to the foodie city of Huesca. An hour further takes you to Jaca, and the walking adventures of the Tierney was a guest of Zaragoza Tourism ( Have you visited Zaragoza? Share your memories in the comments

Sky News AU
23-04-2025
- General
- Sky News AU
Hudson River helicopter crash victims laid to rest in Barcelona to the tune of Frank Sinatra's ‘New York, New York'
A funeral for the Spanish family of five that died in the Hudson River helicopter crash earlier this month was held in Barcelona Tuesday — with the somber service concluding with a haunting rendition of 'New York, New York' by Frank Sinatra. Hundreds of mourners gathered at Sant Vicenç de Sarrià to remember Agustín Escobar and Mercè Camprubí Montal, who died along with their three young children Agustín, 10, Mercè, 9, and Víctor, 4, when the hired chopper broke apart midair and plunged into the New York City waterway on April 10. The family had been in the Big Apple celebrating the ninth birthday of their middle child when the sudden tragedy struck. A heartbreaking photo taken shortly before their deaths shows the elder Agustín giving a thumbs-up as his wife and children flash excited smiles. 'We have been in pain for the last 11 days, but they will always remain in our memories and remind us from up high to never lose our ability to smile,' Montal's father, Joan Camprubí, said during the nearly two-hour service. The church was packed to capacity, with dozens of people watching on screens from outside beneath warm, sunny skies. Among those in attendance were Catalonia's regional leader, Salvador Illa, and Barcelona Mayor Jaume Collboni. Also spotted greeting mourners was Joan Laporta, president of FC Barcelona, the same role Montal's grandfather once held at the professional Spanish soccer team. Montal worked for Siemens Energy, while Escobar was global CEO of rail infrastructure at Siemens Mobility. Camprubí thanked those in attendance as he and family members shared memories of their departed loved ones and the joy they gave them. He also mentioned Monday's death of Pope Francis at the age of 88, saying the late pontiff was a believer in the importance of a 'smile and a sense of humor.' The funeral service ended with a slideshow of the family members at holiday celebrations and other vacations as the iconic Sinatra tune played. The cause of the helicopter crash — which also killed the pilot, Navy veteran Sean Johnson, 36, — remains under investigation. A National Travel Safety Board spokesman told The Post Tuesday that a preliminary report is expected to be released 'about 30 days' from the date of the disaster. With Post wires Originally published as Hudson River helicopter crash victims laid to rest in Barcelona to the tune of Frank Sinatra's 'New York, New York'


New York Post
22-04-2025
- General
- New York Post
Spanish family killed in Hudson River helicopter crash laid to rest to the tune of Sinatra's ‘New York, New York'
A funeral for the Spanish family of five that died in the Hudson River helicopter crash earlier this month was held in Barcelona Tuesday — with the somber service concluding with a haunting rendition of 'New York, New York' by Frank Sinatra. Hundreds of mourners gathered at Sant Vicenç de Sarrià to remember Agustín Escobar and Mercè Camprubí Montal, who died along with their three young children Agustín, 10, Mercè, 9, and Víctor, 4, when the hired chopper broke apart midair and plunged into the New York City waterway on April 10. 3 Funeral home workers somberly carried the caskets of the five family members into the church for the service, which was attended by hundreds of mourners. AP The family had been in the Big Apple celebrating the ninth birthday of their middle child when the sudden tragedy struck. A heartbreaking photo taken shortly before their deaths shows the elder Agustín giving a thumbs-up as his wife and children flash excited smiles. 'We have been in pain for the last 11 days, but they will always remain in our memories and remind us from up high to never lose our ability to smile,' Montal's father, Joan Camprubí, said during the nearly two-hour service. 3 Hundreds of mourners packed Sant Vicenç de Sarrià church in Barcelona Tuesday to remember the family killed in a NYC helicopter crash April 10. Europa Press / MEGA The church was packed to capacity, with dozens of people watching on screens from outside beneath warm, sunny skies. Among those in attendance were Catalonia's regional leader, Salvador Illa, and Barcelona Mayor Jaume Collboni. Also spotted greeting mourners was Joan Laporta, president of FC Barcelona, the same role Montal's grandfather once held at the professional Spanish soccer team. Montal worked for Siemens Energy, while Escobar was global CEO of rail infrastructure at Siemens Mobility. Camprubí thanked those in attendance as he and family members shared memories of their departed loved ones and the joy they gave them. 3 Agustín Escobar and Mercè Camprubí Montal died in the crash along with their three young children Agustín, 10, Mercè, 9, and Víctor, 4. New York Helicopter Tours LLC He also mentioned Monday's death of Pope Francis at the age of 88, saying the late pontiff was a believer in the importance of a 'smile and a sense of humor.' The funeral service ended with a slideshow of the family members at holiday celebrations and other vacations as the iconic Sinatra tune played. The cause of the helicopter crash — which also killed the pilot, Navy veteran Sean Johnson, 36, — remains under investigation. A National Travel Safety Board spokesman told The Post Tuesday that a preliminary report is expected to be released 'about 30 days' from the date of the disaster. With Post wires
Yahoo
13-04-2025
- General
- Yahoo
NTSB investigation continues into Hudson River crash
Editor's note: The video aired in a previous newscast. NEW YORK (PIX 11) — The six victims of the deadly Hudson River crash were honored at an emotional wreath-laying ceremony in Lower Manhattan Saturday. Joan Camprubí Montal, the brother of the young wife and mother who died alongside her husband and three children, also spoke out for the first time since the tragedy. More Local News 'I want to understand that they left together,' he said. 'They left without suffering. They left with a smile on their faces.' Montal addressed the loss of his five family members alongside Mayor Eric Adams. Investigators tell PIX11 News a tour helicopter broke apart midair Thursday and crashed into the water. The victims included passengers Agustin Escobar, 49, his wife, Mercè Camprubí Montal, 39, and their three children, Victor, 4, Mercedes, 8, and Agustin, 10. Mercedes would have turned 9 on Friday, officials said. The crash also claimed the life of the 36-year-old pilot, Sean Johnson. Mayor Eric Adams expressed the city's solidarity with the victims' families during this time of unimaginable loss. 'Their sorrow is our sorrow,' Adams said. 'New York City is a family and we consider this as a loss of our family members with unspeakable pain and suffering.' Saturday night, National Transportation Safety Board officials said divers were still searching for helicopter parts, including the main rotor, main gearbox, and tail rotor. According to the NTSB, the helicopter had its last major inspection on March 1st. NTSB representatives met with the helicopter's operator, New York Helicopter Charter, and reviewed policies and safety procedures as the investigation into the crash remains ongoing. Earlier in the day, NYPD's Harbor Unit members recovered what appeared to be one of the helicopter's doors. Remi Adeleke served in the Navy with the pilot and said he left a lasting impression on everyone he met. 'He was a great person,' Adeleke said. 'He was always smiling.' He added, 'He was just a giving, caring person. He genuinely cared about people.' As New Yorkers continue to mourn this tragic loss, Mayor Adams and the Consul General of Spain joined Montal at the site of the crash, where they laid flowers and a wreath in tribute to the lives lost. Montal said he's working to bring his family's bodies back to Spain, while Adeleke said Johnson's loved ones are making arrangements to return his body to Chicago, where his mother lives, as they work through the details of his funeral arrangements. Copyright 2025 Nexstar Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.