The northeastern Spanish city with a surprising tapas scene
A tourist with a map doesn't go unnoticed in Zaragoza. This architectural powerhouse — Spain's fifth-largest city — remains gloriously uncrowded, a masterpiece hiding in plain sight between Madrid and Barcelona.
Once the Roman colony of Cesaraugusta, it's a modestly handsome stronghold today, dominated by the formidable Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, whose ochre domes cast a honeyed glow over the River Ebro. Steps away, the walls of La Seo Cathedral glint almost competitively, their complex Mudéjar brickwork echoing centuries of Christian, Islamic and Jewish influence.
The tapas scene here puts overhyped Barcelona to shame. At El Tubo's cramped maze of bars, locals jostle good-naturedly for bechamel-oozing croquetas and garlicky gambas, paying prices that would make Madrileños weep with envy.
A warning: avoid the Fiestas del Pilar (October 4-13) when the city swells. A million pilgrims, three-storey flower offerings, and round-the-clock processions are not for the faint-hearted. For the rest of the year, Zaragoza extends that increasingly rare European luxury: unvarnished spirit.
• Morning: Explore La Magdalena district• Lunch: La Ternasca• Afternoon: Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar• Drink at: Bodegas Almau • Evening: Explore El Tubo district• Dinner: La Republicana
Morning: Palacio de la AljeferiaLunch: Contigo Pan Y CebollaAfternoon: Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del CarmenDrink at: LinaceroEvening: Museo del TeatroDinner: Montal
• The central La Magdalena district blends medieval roots with a bohemian spirit. Meandering, cobbled streets are punctuated by art, independent bars and local legends like Quiteria Martín, a century-old toy shop heaving with party ephemera. Stop at Bar Entalt for controversial pineapple croquetas, a copa of vino tinto (the local Garnacha is violet nectar), and soak in the neighbourhood's laid-back, rebellious energy (entalto.es)
• The Basilica De Nuestra Señora Del Pilar with its Goya frescoes and sacred icon, is the real city show-stopper — a vast aerodrome of devotion and artistry. Take a lift up its northwest tower for the ultimate city vista, then cross the lion-flanked Stone Bridge at sunset for a baclit audience with this extraordinary monolith (basilica entrance free, lift £5; catedralbasilicadelpilar.es).
• Spend a cultured hour at the Palacio de la Aljaferia, a fortified Islamic castle blessed with intricate carved ceilings, and mini-me Alhambra courtyards. Once a symbol of Moorish rule, later reshaped by Christian kings, it's a compelling example of glimpse into Spain's layered past. Go for local hero Francisco Goya, whose paintings have been transferred here from the city museum. Not his ultimate work, granted, but close, nonetheless and it's free on the first Sunday and Monday of the month (£6; cortesaragon.es).
• El Tubo is Zaragoza's tapas playground, a district of tight alleys, tighter flavours and endless charm. At El Champi, they do one thing, but they do it well: oil-spitting garlic mushrooms, crowned with prawns, and the kind of 'secret' parsley sauce that wouldn't look out of place on pie and mash. Keep it to one piece, then explore these streets, topping up occasionally with regional Somontano wine, before more substantial fare (tapas from £2; @elchampizgz21).
• Remarkably overlooked, the 1960s modernist chapel at Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen is a masterclass in style and spirit. A soaring needle tower and brutalist lines make it an architectural icon, but it's the beguiling interior which is the main draw. Studding the vast western wall like celestial fruit gums, kaleidoscopic glass floods the space with beams of lime and purple. If God is a DJ, then this is his crib (free; parroquiadelcarmen.es).
• The history-grabbing Museo del Teatro takes visitors back to ancient Caesaraugusta, the former Roman name of Zaragoza, with its stylish reveal of the city's once grand amphitheatre. Stone seating, stage foundations, and tangible exhibits bring the past back to life. Tucked beneath the city, it's a quiet yet powerful reminder of Zaragoza's deep roots in drama and empire (£4; zaragoza.es/sede/portal/museos/teatro).
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This smart, meaty specialist reimagines Ternasco de Aragón (lamb) in unexpected ways: think rich, lamb-filled gyozas and taste-baiting churrasquitos, small pieces of meat barbecued to perfection. Highlights include the regional lacquered chops and wok-fried shoulder. Permanently packed, this is a bar that honours the Aragonese sheep from wool to bone. And not a drop of mint sauce in sight (tapas from £4 a piece; laternasca.com).
Bodegas Almau, a boisterous Zaragoza favourite since 1870, is renowned for its vinegared tapas and salty anchovies, paired with more than 800 wines. There's a tight clan at the helm here, dispensing wisecracks and vermouth with equal vigour. On warmer nights the crowd spills on to an adjacent terrace, while sister bar Ceci's, opposite, offers a modern spin on the family's beloved legacy (£6 for vermouth and anchovies; bodegasalmau.es).
The signature twist at this camp, bric-a-chic classic is Spanish tapas arranged on tiered English high-tea plates, transforming pintxos, tortilla and jamon into towers of Mary Poppins-style hospitality. A perennial local favourite, La Republicana can best be described as a car-boot brasserie, walls lined with vintage radios and crackly jazz filling the gaps (from £18 for 12 tapas; larepublicana.es).
Contigo pan y cebolla ('with you, bread and onions') is the Spanish saying that expresses loyalty through hard times. True to form, the food here is unconditionally lovely, especially the remarkably silky risotto. Owners Francisco and Pilar run a tight ship, delivering wholesome plates with characteristic finesse. A cast of fleshy portraits stare down at you from lofty walls. It's eccentric, efficient and one of the city's best (mains from £10; contigopanycebolla.es).
Linacero Discos, a record store and bar-café, is the go-to weekend haunt for cold beer and rock of all persuasions. It's within yards of the starchy fashion stores of Plaza los Sitios, but it feels a world away. Try the local, melon-heavy cava, or Aragon's regional Ambar beer (from £2; linacero.com).
Founded in 1919, gastro-hub Montal occupies a 15th-century palacio townhouse in the charming Plaza de San Felipe, compromising five distinct areas. Gorge between the fine-dining Restaurante Montal, a gourmet shop, La Despensa, for casual bites, La Bodega with an extensive wine selection, and a museum dedicated to the Torre Nueva, the Pisa-like tower that once stood in the square outside (set menu from £44; montal.es).
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No frills, low billsThere's a distinct overkill of varnished pine, but this honest, unflashy hotel offers decent, wallet-friendly accommodation bang in the heart of town. It's steps away from the magnificent Plaza del Pilar, and also an olive's throw from the impressively restored art nouveau Mercado Central. Skip breakfast and start your day here among locals sampling pastries, regional cheeses, and better than average coffee (room-only doubles from £75; hotelhispania.com).
Infinite comfort, in the heart of the cityThis sleek city refuge is a hotel with a hug, a place where service feels genuinely benevolent. From June, a rooftop infinity pool brings respite from the urban sprawl, while the venerated Melia breakfast is reassuringly up to scratch, with deftly fried eggs and proper croissants putting the morning world to rights. Dozens died when fire struck the building in 1979 (room 501 is rumoured to be haunted) but there's nothing remotely scary about this modern-day crash pad (B&B doubles from £110; melia.com).
Old-school Spanish sophisticatePart of the refined local Palafox group, the Alfonso is an impressive looking beast with an elegant, cool marble interior and obtuse modern art strewn around the building. 'New York' loft suites elicit a Mad Men mid-century edge, and there's a modest free minibar to plunder. The hotel's crown jewel is its rooftop pool, which serves goose-bump views to the shimmering Basilica del Pilar, an almost Disney-esque sight come nightfall (B&B suites from £250; palafoxhoteles.com).
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Ryanair offers direct flights from London Stansted, taking 2 hours 15 minutes. One-stop flights are available from Manchester and London Luton via European hubs. Alternatively, fly to Barcelona and take a high-speed AVE train to Zaragoza in less than 90 minutes. Zaragoza Airport is 12km from the city, with buses and car rentals available.
Travel passes are available for both tram and bus networks, but neither includes travel to and from the airport. Single fares are £5.
Zaragoza hosted Expo 2008, where sustainable development was a key theme. Nearly two decades later, the city has caught up with its own vision of the future. An expanding fleet of electric buses and a modern tram system connect key parts of the city, while a low-emission zone in the historic centre promotes cleaner air and easier movement.
Visitors can explore comfortably without a car, although the city is a good jumping off point for a drive to the foodie city of Huesca. An hour further takes you to Jaca, and the walking adventures of the Pyrenees.Paul Tierney was a guest of Zaragoza Tourism (zaragozaturismo.es)
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