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NZ Herald
19-05-2025
- NZ Herald
What to eat in the Chatham Islands: A seafood lover's guide
Irish pub The Craic had me at hello, blue cod. Pan-fried and fresh with chunky chips and a tasty tartare. In fact, it had me so bad that I went back and had exactly the same for lunch the next day, before heading to the wharf to board our beautiful home away from home for a week, Ponant's Le Laperouse. And we were off to the Chatham Islands, where the best blue cod comes from (so they say...) Owenga, on the main island, Rekohu, was our first landing. Bouncing over the waves it was hard not to think of the bounty that lay beneath. As well as cod, the Chathams are renowned for their big crayfish, kina and pāua. But they are also a favourite meeting place for great white sharks, so best to concentrate on not falling overboard. After a bit of a paddle when exiting the Zodiac, I was hiking through farmland with gritty, damp feet. Crayfish season was, sadly, all but finished, and the paddocks were full of pots. The treescape was a mix of megaherbs, like the famous Chatham Island forget-me-nots and coastal trees sculpted by the wind; larger trees on the islands include the karaka, which was brought to the Chathams by the Moriori, who called it kopi. They ate the flesh of the berries and used the (poisonous) kernels to make a kind of flour. A couple of, thankfully friendly, four-legged locals followed us up to a gorgeous windswept beach when I saw something that I, at least, had never seen before. Amid the clumps of seaweed were pāua shells, hundreds of them, polished on both sides. I've still not been able to ascertain whether this 'phenomenon' is caused by natural abrasion by the sea, or a lack of barnacles, or indeed if it is a phenomenon. But I was pretty impressed. Another local, two-legged this time, stopped to chat and just casually dropped in that at low tide off the rocks here there were pools the kids fished in that were 'absolutely loaded' with crays, cod and pāua. 'I guess we take it for granted...' Our second landing at the Chathams was on Pitt Island/Rangiauria. Our guide was an off-islander farmer who went there for work and fell in love with the place, and with a local. There was a lot of pride evident when she told us that her (primary school-age) children would never starve; they could cook, garden, fish, hunt and forage. As well as being able to mend their own vehicles. This useless mainlander trudged on with a dodgy hip past more megaherbs — one of the more interesting being the Chathams' giant puha. (While the Chathams have the 'ordinary' puha, there's also a much bigger version, though not actually of the same genus. But they called it puha, so you might expect it was similarly eaten.) Once in danger of being eradicated by the wild sheep and pigs that inhabit the islands, which obviously found it delicious, this coastal plant is now making a big comeback. Wild pork and giant puha. Yum. Wild sheep? The only experience I have had close to that was on the Marquesas, where, as part of a mainly delicious feast, where I fell in love with octopus, they also cooked us some feral goat, a great favourite there. No. Sorry. Eau des armpit. The wild sheep hunted on Pitt, however, are descended from Saxon merinos taken to the islands in the 1800s. And merino meat is now trending as a delicious thing to eat, so I must put aside my prejudice. The woolly Pitt Island sheep we got closest to, however, were in a paddock next to the island's only accommodation, Flowerpot Bay Lodge. Feeling a tad cheaty, as we had only (hip, remember) attempted the 'short' walk option, we were welcomed to this comfortable retreat with a scrumptious morning tea. Fritters made with the local paua were served on home-baked bread. A delicious slice accompanied by coffee on the deck, looking out to the private gardens and the sea. Many visitors to the Chathams choose to spend at least a few days on Pitt Island, and the lodge is a gorgeous place, cosy on the inside, yet and wild on the outside — perched as it is on the corner of New Zealand's easternmost outpost, the first place in the world to see the rising sun. It has a storied history, occupying the site of the original homestead, settled all the way back in 1843. The lounge is lined with photos from the past and a vast selection of books containing all you need to know about the islands. What a remarkable place to stay. Back on the ship, the pāua feast continued, with guest chef Norka Mella Munoz of Wharekauhau Estate demonstrating her own recipe for fritters. Norka, on board as part of Ponant's partnership with Relais & Chateaux, explained that she prefers to make hers without flour, for a lighter and tastier version. Norka's petite frame was later seen wielding an enormous mallet to yet more pāua into submission for a tataki that featured in a special epicurean feast with other New Zealand specialties such as gin-cured Ora King Salmon and venison. The small taste of the magnificent larder that is the Chathams left me wanting much more, and I was excited to discover I could order 'Chatham Blue', snap-frozen and shipped directly from the islands — it's every bit as nice as the fish I had in Dunedin. They do crayfish tails and pāua pies too... Hmmmm.... The writer was a guest of Ponant.
Scoop
03-05-2025
- Politics
- Scoop
State Highway 2 Open
State Highway 2 south of Dannevirke is now open following the earlier crash. © Scoop Media NEW ZEALAND POLITICS Gordon Campbell: On The Aussie Election Finale The only spectre haunting Anthony Albanese's government going into Election Day tomorrow will be the way the polls got wrong the likely 2019 election outcome. Back then, the Scott Morrison government got re-elected in an upset result. Opposition leader Peter Dutton is clinging to that precedent, in hope of a miracle. This time, all of the prevailing signs – including the consistent theme of the polls for the past month – indicate that Albanese's Labor government will trounce Dutton's conservative coalition. What's different from 2019? Albanese, like Morrison before him, is a known quantity. UnionAID: Fiji Union Leader Visiting NZ Highlighting Struggle Of Garment Workers At the event in Wellington, Jotika will join Living Wage Aotearoa New Zealand Executive Director, Gina Lockyer, to explore the struggles and resilience of Fiji's garment workers and their collective fight for better pay and conditions. Hokotehi Moriori Trust: Historic Translocation Of Hakoakoa Marks New Chapter In Moriori Conservation Leadership In a significant milestone for indigenous-led conservation, Hokotehi Moriori Trust has successfully carried out the first imi (Moriori tribal group) translocation of hakoakoa (muttonbird), relocating 50 juvenile birds from Mangere Island to a newly prepared site in Kaingaroa. Department Of Internal Affairs: Government Chief Digital Officer Issues Standard To Protect Government-Held Personal Information The new standard requires public service agencies to conduct a risk assessment whenever personal information is to be shared and includes robust safeguards to protect individual privacy and directs agencies to apply best practices when granting access to personal information. Te Pāti Māori: Keep The Window Open- UCOL Must Stay 'Matapihi ki te Ao is more than a name, it's a promise. A window to the world for our rangatahi and whānau,' says Te Pāti Māori co-leader Debbie Ngarewa-Packer. 'We won't sit back while this Government shuts the door on Māori futures. Our commitment is clear—we would invest more in regional tertiary education, not less.' Unions Otago: May Day Workers' Hui Unless your workplace is already utopia – and we haven't come across one yet – there is a good reason for all union members to come to this hui. Whatever your union and whatever matters most to you and your workmates, please join us at the union meeting this May Day so that we can keep building our relationships and strength as a movement for workers' rights. People Against Prisons Aotearoa: Voting Ban 'Undermines Democratic Principles' Says Justice Group The right to vote is the basis of democratic government. Legitimate governments cannot arbitrarily remove people from the pool that elects them. If the Government strips New Zealanders of the right to vote, it is attacking the democratic principles it claims to be founded on.
Scoop
02-05-2025
- General
- Scoop
Historic Translocation Of Hakoakoa Marks New Chapter In Moriori Conservation Leadership
Press Release – Hokotehi Moriori Trust In a significant milestone for indigenous-led conservation, Hokotehi Moriori Trust has successfully carried out the first imi (Moriori tribal group) translocation of hakoakoa (muttonbird), relocating 50 juvenile birds from Mangere Island to a newly prepared site in Kaingaroa. This translocation follows a negotiated amendment to Hokotehi Moriori Trust's cultural harvest permit with the Department of Conservation (DOC), enabling the permit to support conservation through translocation rather than harvest. The outcome marks a pivotal shift toward active species restoration led by Moriori values and aspirations. The birds were collected by Hokotehi Moriori Trust staff and hūnau, in collaboration with DOC and expert guidance from Mike and Dave Bell, experienced translocation practitioners. Extensive trapping and habitat preparation were undertaken in Kaingaroa to ensure the site was predator-free and safe for the incoming birds. The hakoakoa are now being closely monitored and fed as they acclimate ahead of their natural migration to the Northern Hemisphere. 'This is a proud moment for our imi,' said Levi Lanauze, T'Chieki Farms and Forest at Hokotehi Moriori Trust. 'Our people have worked tirelessly to make this vision a reality, and this initiative demonstrates the power of Moriori-led tchiekitanga (guardianship) in restoring miheke species to our henu (land).' The Trust extended its gratitude to its dedicated biodiversity team—past and present—and acknowledged the support of Predator Free 2050, the Chatham Islands Landscape Restoration Trust, DOC, and the Island–Ocean Connection Challenge. This project has been particularly meaningful for Moriori youth (tchimirik), who were actively involved in the work, deepening their connection to the land, the species, and the legacy of Moriori environmental stewardship. Hokotehi Moriori Trust views this as just the beginning of a wider effort to restore endemic species and ecosystems across Rēkohu and surrounding islands.
Scoop
02-05-2025
- General
- Scoop
Historic Translocation Of Hakoakoa Marks New Chapter In Moriori Conservation Leadership
Press Release – Hokotehi Moriori Trust The birds were collected by Hokotehi Moriori Trust staff and hnau, in collaboration with DOC and expert guidance from Mike and Dave Bell, experienced translocation practitioners. In a significant milestone for indigenous-led conservation, Hokotehi Moriori Trust has successfully carried out the first imi (Moriori tribal group) translocation of hakoakoa (muttonbird), relocating 50 juvenile birds from Mangere Island to a newly prepared site in Kaingaroa. This translocation follows a negotiated amendment to Hokotehi Moriori Trust's cultural harvest permit with the Department of Conservation (DOC), enabling the permit to support conservation through translocation rather than harvest. The outcome marks a pivotal shift toward active species restoration led by Moriori values and aspirations. The birds were collected by Hokotehi Moriori Trust staff and hūnau, in collaboration with DOC and expert guidance from Mike and Dave Bell, experienced translocation practitioners. Extensive trapping and habitat preparation were undertaken in Kaingaroa to ensure the site was predator-free and safe for the incoming birds. The hakoakoa are now being closely monitored and fed as they acclimate ahead of their natural migration to the Northern Hemisphere. 'This is a proud moment for our imi,' said Levi Lanauze, T'Chieki Farms and Forest at Hokotehi Moriori Trust. 'Our people have worked tirelessly to make this vision a reality, and this initiative demonstrates the power of Moriori-led tchiekitanga (guardianship) in restoring miheke species to our henu (land).' The Trust extended its gratitude to its dedicated biodiversity team—past and present—and acknowledged the support of Predator Free 2050, the Chatham Islands Landscape Restoration Trust, DOC, and the Island–Ocean Connection Challenge. This project has been particularly meaningful for Moriori youth (tchimirik), who were actively involved in the work, deepening their connection to the land, the species, and the legacy of Moriori environmental stewardship. Hokotehi Moriori Trust views this as just the beginning of a wider effort to restore endemic species and ecosystems across Rēkohu and surrounding islands.
Scoop
02-05-2025
- General
- Scoop
Historic Translocation Of Hakoakoa Marks New Chapter In Moriori Conservation Leadership
In a significant milestone for indigenous-led conservation, Hokotehi Moriori Trust has successfully carried out the first imi (Moriori tribal group) translocation of hakoakoa (muttonbird), relocating 50 juvenile birds from Mangere Island to a newly prepared site in Kaingaroa. This translocation follows a negotiated amendment to Hokotehi Moriori Trust's cultural harvest permit with the Department of Conservation (DOC), enabling the permit to support conservation through translocation rather than harvest. The outcome marks a pivotal shift toward active species restoration led by Moriori values and aspirations. The birds were collected by Hokotehi Moriori Trust staff and hūnau, in collaboration with DOC and expert guidance from Mike and Dave Bell, experienced translocation practitioners. Extensive trapping and habitat preparation were undertaken in Kaingaroa to ensure the site was predator-free and safe for the incoming birds. The hakoakoa are now being closely monitored and fed as they acclimate ahead of their natural migration to the Northern Hemisphere. 'This is a proud moment for our imi,' said Levi Lanauze, T'Chieki Farms and Forest at Hokotehi Moriori Trust. 'Our people have worked tirelessly to make this vision a reality, and this initiative demonstrates the power of Moriori-led tchiekitanga (guardianship) in restoring miheke species to our henu (land).' The Trust extended its gratitude to its dedicated biodiversity team—past and present—and acknowledged the support of Predator Free 2050, the Chatham Islands Landscape Restoration Trust, DOC, and the Island–Ocean Connection Challenge. This project has been particularly meaningful for Moriori youth (tchimirik), who were actively involved in the work, deepening their connection to the land, the species, and the legacy of Moriori environmental stewardship. Hokotehi Moriori Trust views this as just the beginning of a wider effort to restore endemic species and ecosystems across Rēkohu and surrounding islands.
