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NZ Herald
05-08-2025
- NZ Herald
Seville, Spain travel guide: Must-see sites and dining in Andalusia's capital
Seville has plenty to keep visitors occupied. It boasts three Unesco heritage sites as well as myriad museums, parks and stately homes. The Catedral de Santa María de la Sede is the third-largest church in the world. Its iconic bell tower, known as the Giralda, can be seen from almost everywhere in the city. Buy your ticket online to avoid long queues. Alternatively, purchase a joint ticket from the Church of the Divine Saviour (Iglesia del Divino Salvador) that includes both locations, and stroll straight in. Seville's Royal Alcázar is a stunning palace still used by the Spanish royal family. Its lush gardens are patrolled by peacocks, and the palace itself is a breathtaking fusion of Islamic, Gothic, Mudejar and Renaissance architectural styles. Royal Alcázar. Photo / Unsplash Set in the Parque de María Luisa, the Plaza de España was built for the 1929 Expo. It features a series of colourful tiled alcoves with scenes from each Spanish province. With its fountains and Italian-style bridges, it's a spectacular site that has been used as a backdrop for movies like Star Wars Episode II. For something more contemporary, visit the giant Metropol Parasol, which looms over the Plaza de la Encarnación. It's referred to as 'Las Setas' by Sevillanos because its wooden structure looks like a cluster of mushrooms. Inside, you'll find several restaurants, a market and a museum. Get tickets to the wooden catwalk for one of the best views of the city. Across the Isabel II bridge, the colourful neighbourhood of Triana is choc-full of ceramic shops and tapas bars. Try the local specialty, Cazón en adobo; dogfish marinated in paprika, oregano, salt, garlic, and vinegar and then fried. Don't let the name put you off, it's delicious! With historic sights, vibrant food and flamenco flair, Seville is a city worth visiting again and again. Photo / Unsplash Where to shop Seville's main shopping streets are Calles Sierpes and Tetuan. They run parallel to each other in the heart of the old town. Here you'll find everything from European brands like Mango, to traditional stores selling mantones (Spanish shawls). El Corte Inglés occupies an entire block of Plaza del Duque de la Victoria. The leading Spanish department store is a veritable cornucopia of fashion and food, with everything from concessions like Carolina Herrerra and Purification Garcia, to a gourmet experience and rooftop bar. There's even a supermarket in the basement, where you can purchase local jamon and empanadas. Craving culture, sunshine and sangria? Seville delivers all three (and more) in one charming city. Photo / Louise Slyth Where to dine The Seville dining scene is vibrant, diverse and constantly evolving. From Michelin-starred restaurants to cheap tapas bars, and everything in between, you'll never be short of options. To dine like a local, book dinner between 9pm and 10.30pm (when it's generally cooler). Eating later also allows you to watch the sunset with a pre-dinner drink in one of the city's many rooftop bars. Not sure whether you want a bocadillo (sandwich) or a burger? Head to the Mercado Lonja del Barranco. With an array of food offerings from around the world, as well as indoor and outdoor seating, this food market is the ideal place to go when you want to hedge your bets. Tucked into Hotel Villapanés, an 18th-century palace, you'll find Los Rincones del Marqués. The restaurant delivers authentic Andalusian dishes cooked with flair and confidence. Choose between the restaurant or outdoor seating in the charming, enclosed courtyard. The tiramisu made to order at your table is not to be missed! Los Rincones del Marqués. Photo / Supplied La Cochera del Abuelo roughly translates to 'grandpa's garage'. It's an apt moniker for this restaurant set slightly off the beaten track in an old carriage house. The dining room is elegant yet cosy, and you'll be met with impeccable service and food that you'll be thinking about long after your visit. For a refreshing change of scene, head to Caza Ozama in the leafy Porvenir district. The modernist early 20th-century villa boasts several different eating and drinking spaces, for all tastes and moods. Secure a reservation under a canopy of fairy lights in the stylish pergola to enjoy contemporary fare or tapas like papas aliñas (a traditional Andalusian potato dish). No trip to Seville would be complete without some tapas. For cheap and cheerful options in the old town, try Marabunda, Lobo López or Abaceria del Postigo. Maravilla Social Club is a little further from the centre, but their patatas bravas are worth the walk. Where to drink Seville offers the perfect fusion of glamorous rooftop bars and old-fashioned Cervecerias, so you can always find the perfect venue for your mood. You'll hear Plaza Del Salvador before you see it. Here, fashionistas mingle with students outside bars like La Antigua Bodeguita to drink cheap beers in the shade of the coral-coloured Iglesia Del Divino Salvador. Iglesia Del Salvador. Photo / Louise Slyth For something a little different, try Bar Garlochí. You'll either love or loathe this unique bar decorated with religious memorabilia, red velvet and candles. Try the signature cocktail Sangue de Cristo (blood of Christ) if you dare… When the temperatures go up, so do the people in the know. Insiders head to Seville's rooftop bars for soothing cool breezes and chilled vibes. Ático Sevilla is a verdant urban oasis where you can sip signature cocktails as you enjoy fantastic views of the Guadalquivir River, the neighbourhood of Triana and the cathedral. In a prime spot in the Plaza de la Encarnación, the rooftop terrace at Casa de Indias boasts unobstructed views of the Metropol Parasol. On the opposite side of the plaza, the stylish terrace at abba The Roof Giralda has great cityscape views and a varied cocktail menu. Or try El Mirador de Querencia, where the cathedral views and the buzz are amazing, but the service can sometimes be slow. Flamenco Flamenco. Photo / Supplied Seville's heart beats to the rhythm of flamenco. More an art form than a dance, it's worth attending a flamenco show while you're there. There are several tablaos (flamenco venues) offering theatre-style performances, or lively bars where you can catch a show for the price of a drink. Tucked under Las Setas, Tablao Flamenco Las Setas can accommodate around 100 people in the theatre-style venue. It's big enough to feel buzzy, but intimate enough that you can see and feel the rhythm and passion of the performers up close. For something more informal, try a flamenco bar like La Carboneria in the old town or Lola de Los Reyes in the Triana neighbourhood. However you spend your sojourn in Seville, you're almost guaranteed to leave wanting more. Whether you fall in love with the culture, weather, gastronomy or friendly people, it's a city that's sure to get under your skin.
Daily Mirror
04-08-2025
- Daily Mirror
Europe's hottest city is 'not nice' - Brits should avoid the place this summer
With temperatures soaring, a tour guide based in the city has told Brits to stay away. Stunning architecture, rich history, incredible cuisine and fantastic weather all place Europe's hottest city on the travel bucket list for many Brits. But it's the weather during summer that British tourists should keep in mind. With rising temperatures, Seville in Spain may not be the best holiday hotspot – and that's the view of a tour guide who ditched London for beautiful southern Spain more than two decades ago. Fiona Watson, who moved to Seville in 2003, is a journalist and travel writer who currently guides holidaymakers around the city's tapas establishments. When asked about her recommendations for visitors spending an afternoon in Seville, she had clear advice. She told the Mirror: "Right now in the afternoons they need to be in an air-conditioned room. I wouldn't recommend going out at all at the moment. "I flew back from a trip to England 10 days ago and noticed there were no Spanish people on the plane. I thought 'have you any idea what you're letting yourself in for?' "We (locals) do ask 'why do they come and go to the beach?' It is not a place to come in the summer." Fiona added: "It is great that we have tourists, but it is not a nice place for them to be in the summer. Hopefully they have a siesta in the afternoon." Fiona branded summer in the city as "inconvenient" and "like being in an oven", with most residents opting to stay indoors from around 1pm before venturing out only after the sun sets in the evening. This is because the city endures blistering heatwaves that can soar to an astonishing 45C. Yet despite Seville becoming increasingly sweltering, visitor numbers continue to surge. In 2023, 12.2million international arrivals were welcomed to Andalucia - the region where Seville is located - smashing records and surpassing the 12.02million who visited in 2019. Fiona encouraged visitors to travel between March and May or after the summer months have ended. "October is lovely," she added. As for the city itself, Fiona said: "It is a very multicultural city. The Royal Alcazar is a must. "It is absolutely beautiful, it is a mix of Moorish architecture and Mudejar. Part of Game of Thrones was filmed there. It was one of the palaces in Dorne."
The Independent
12-02-2025
- The Independent
12 of the best things to do in Seville
Continental Europe's warmest city, Seville, is an inland pocket of sunshine and high temperatures that offers exceptional year-round weather. This historic city is far away from any coastal cooling influences, meaning that hot weather is the norm even in the winter months, with the lowest average high reaching around 16C in December and January, up to a sweltering 36C in August. However, it's not just Seville's spectacular weather that makes it worthy of a visit, as cultural attractions, historical sites and a way of life that is exceedingly relaxed and enjoyable have made it popular with both domestic and international visitors. And unlike other cities in Spain, visitors only need to spend three days in Seville to experience its best. The pre-eminent landmarks include Unesco-listed monuments, one of the world's largest cathedrals and palaces that date back over a millennium. A vibrant park and the banks of the Guadalquivir give the city some beautiful natural sites, while a slew of lesser-seen neighbourhoods and an abundance of cultural flair are visible in its festivals and traditions such as flamenco dancing. To help you make the most of your stay, we've rounded up the best things to do in the Pearl of Andalusia. 1. Tour the Alcazar Despite its impressive cathedral, most will agree that Seville's premier tourist attraction is the Real Alcazar. This palace complex, a fusion of Islamic and Christian architecture, traces its roots back to the 10th century, with several additions giving it its different Moorish, Mudejar, Gothic, Renaissance and even Romanesque features. The complex contains several different palaces, each linked by large courtyards and extensive gardens filled with typically Andalusian plants and trees. Different palaces have different features – the Cuarto Real Alto still hosts members of the royal family when they visit Seville, while the Palacio Gotico has vaulted halls adorned with large tapestries – but the highlight is the Palacio de Don Pedro, replete with intricate tile work, beautiful arches, magnificent domes, plaster work brought from the Alhambra and even gold ceilings. 2. Visit the Maria Luisa Park and Plaza de Espana The 84-acre Maria Luisa park is more than just a verdant oasis that locals use to escape the summer heat (or go for runs and picnics in spring). Itself a mix of Iberian and Moorish architectural and design influences, it is another monument to the city's history, and the various gardens and buildings within it – that were built for the Ibero-American Exposition in 1929 – are still-standing remnants that tell their own stories of the city's history, culture and architecture. Chief among these structures is the Plaza de Espana, a vast, borderline over-the-top plaza bisected by a canal and Venetian-styled bridges, and featuring intricate brick-and-tile pavilions and arched colonnades. Local and tourists alike spend time walking through the shaded walkways, admiring the alcoves (that depict a historical event from each of Spain's provinces) and rowing on the canal. 3. View the cathedral and ascend Giralda Tower The largest Gothic cathedral in the world stands upon the ruins of a Moorish mosque, a metaphor for Spain's often tumultuous history and a reminder of the role of different religious groups in defining the Andalusian capital. It features giant, stained-glass windows, numerous examples of Gothic ornamentation, a giant gold altarpiece and even paintings from Goya and Murillo, but the highlight is probably the tomb of Christopher Columbus, held aloft by four statues of knights. Attached to the cathedral is the Giralda bell tower, which used to be a minaret in the aforementioned mosque, and now stands at over 100 metres tall. It offers sweeping views over the city's old Jewish quarter and the Alcazar; general entry for both is priced at €15.50 (£12.90). 4. Stroll along the river The Guadalquivir River has played a pivotal role in the development of both Seville and Spain itself, being the only major navigable river in the country. While it once enabled trade and dramatic growth for the city, it is now a blissfully calm, scenic area that invites long walks, quick strolls from the centre and a range of river cruises. When strolling along the banks, be sure to walk to the Torre de Oro, another of Seville's main landmarks. Dating back to the 13th century, this 10-sided structure was built by the area's Moorish rulers as part of the city walls, and today houses a small maritime museum and a viewing platform. 5. Catch a flamenco show Andalusia is the birthplace of flamenco, and there's no better place to see a performance than in the regional capital. It originated in the late 18th century, and has since been classed by Unesco as a masterpiece of intangible heritage. Modern-day shows combine musical acts with intense, extravagant dancing; performances are either in troupes or, in more intimate shows called tablaos, by a single performer who takes to the stage as you have dinner. The Triana district is the centre of flamenco in Seville, and venues such as Teatro Flamenco Triana, T de Triana and La Carboneria are all popular. More centrally, Los Gallos is one of the most reputed tablaos, while the Museo del Baile Flamenco allows guests to learn about the history of the tradition before watching a performance. 6. Be part of the Feria de Abril Seville is home to two different nationally famous celebrations, both with drastically different vibes. Around Easter, Semana Santa (Holy Week) makes the city a more serene, pensive and somewhat serious place, but two weeks later, the Feria de Abril (April Fair) turns almost all of Seville into a fairground. Striped tents called casetas line the streets, hosting raucous, often all-night celebrations, with regular bullfights in the vast Plaza de Toros and plenty of revellers decked out in traditional costumes. Don't be surprised to see some residents riding around on horseback or in carriages either. The heart of the Feria is known as the 'Real de Feria', and extends for 24 blocks in the area between Los Remedios and Tablado. This is where the 'Hell Street' amusement park is located, as well as the majority of tents; most of these are private and run by local families and businesses, but there are plenty of free-to-enter tents for visitors, including two municipal ones and one for each district of the city. 7. Discover more of the city Though the historic centre of the city, a neighbourhood known as Santa Cruz, is where most of the main sights are – along with many bars, restaurants, cafes and the main shopping areas – a quick wander in any direction will take you to cobbled streets lined with locals having an extended family lunch or meeting a couple of friends for some tapas. Alfalfa and Arenal are two such barrios, bordering Santa Cruz but offering a little more peace and many of the city's best hotels, bars and tapas joints. For nightlife, there is one clear winner. Alameda is one of the more trendy neighbourhoods, where bars and clubs open until the early hours of the morning on the Avenida de Alameda. For more of a local's experience, head across the Guadalquivir to Triana. This area attracts visitors wanting to see the best of the city's flamenco shows, as well as those wanting to pick up a ceramic souvenir in workshops around Antillano Campos street, such as Ceramica Triana. 8. See the Casa de Pilatos One of Seville's most unique landmarks is a 16th-century structure that has blended Mudejar, Baroque and Renaissance elements to create a magnificent civil palace akin to a smaller Alcazar. At the centre lies an impressive marble courtyard, and there is access to exterior gardens, but the highlights are the intricate geometric patterns used throughout, as well as the ornate wooden features and over 100 different azulejo tile designs. Upstairs, visitors can tour some artworks belonging to the Medinaceli family. Tickets to the whole house, including the artworks, cost €18 (£14.99). 9. Discover a great range of art and history Seville has a range of art to rival most Spanish cities, and the undeniable highlight is the Museo de Bellas Artes, where visitors can view works from the Middle Ages right up to the 20th century, including pieces from famed Spaniards like Velazquez and Goya. At the other end of the scale, the city's contemporary art gallery is the Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporaneo, where an extensive collection of modern Hispanic works sits alongside spaces for concerts, events and temporary exhibitions. For history buffs, two museums stand out. The Archivo de Indios contains thousands of documents relating to the Spanish Age of Discovery and the empire – including maps and letters from Columbus – while the Museum of Art and Popular Customs is dedicated to Andalusian heritage. Admission to all of the above ranges from free to €1.80. 10. Las Setas Officially known as the Metropol Parasol complex, Las Setas – 'The Mushrooms' – is the largest wooden structure in the world. Loved by some locals and loathed by others, it has become a modern symbol of Seville, and is a contemporary architectural highlight. Somewhat out of place among older buildings and squares, this 28-metre tall structure now offers panoramic views over Seville from its rooftop walkways, with a market and cafe on the ground below and a museum displaying Roman and medieval artefacts in the basement. 11. Catch a game For football fans, the presence of two of Spain's major teams in the city offers great opportunities to see a match (especially as one is guaranteed to be playing in the city during most weekends in the season). Sevilla are the city's main team, slightly more well-known and successful than their rivals, but Real Betis is a cult club, with their home games taking place at the magnificent Benito Villamarin stadium. 12. Step back in time to an ancient Spanish city Just outside Seville's borders lies the remains of another city that existed thousands of years ago – the ancient Roman settlement of Itálica. The city was founded in 206 BC, over 2,000 years ago, but all that stands now is the archaeological remains of an amphitheatre, the layout of where streets one existed, art and some everyday objects used by the residents. The city also was the birthplace of two famous Roman emperors, Hadrian and his adoptive father, Trajan, with the latter having a temple dedicated to him (the foundations have been well preserved). Private and guided visits to the city can be booked online.
