2 days ago
French mountaineers pioneer new Golden Peak route
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In early June, French alpinist Mathieu Maynadier and Pakistan's Muizzuddinn pioneered a new route up the East Ridge of Spantik (7,027 m), locally known as Golden Peak, in the Karakoram range.
The ascent, which took place from June 2 to 7, was the first major mountain opening in Pakistan led by a local climber. The new 1,800 m route, dubbed 'Zindabad (long live)", is graded M5 A1 at an 80° incline. It is expected to be one of this summer's most notable climbs in the country.
The duo spent 20 days acclimatising at the base camp, waiting out 10 days of poor weather before establishing higher camps at 5,200m and 5,800m. Despite the risk, they took advantage of a weather opening, enduring fresh snow and unstable slabs over five days. Just metres shy of the summit, they aborted due to a dangerous wind slab, but celebrated the route's completion as a symbol of national pride.
Their descent took 36 hours via the normal route, with a final bivouac at 5,800 m. For Muizz, this achievement is the first phase of a wider goal: to become Pakistan's first UIAGM-certified mountain guide.
Muizz plans to begin his training in France this summer. If successful, he will become certified by 2029, and is aiming to help revive domestic guide programmes and training schools in Pakistan.
Spantik has a respected history of technical climbs, notably the 2000 French–Slovenian ascent of its north face 'Golden Pillar'. Maynadier, already an advocate for Pakistani alpinism, has achieved several first ascents and ski descents in the region.
