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The Independent
24-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
Basel city guide: What to see and do in the Euro 2025 host city as the Lionesses reach the final
Following a last-minute comeback against Italy on Tuesday, the Lionesses have roared into the Euro 2025 final, sending the ball rolling in the charming Swiss city of Basel. Beyond the big-hitters – Zurich and Geneva – the host city of the highly anticipated football final, featuring current European champions England, is a Swiss city that refuses to be put in a box. St Jakob Park will welcome thousands of football fans to cheer on the Lionesses this Sunday (27 July), but what is there to do outside the stadium if you're in town for the final? Sure, the pretty, pastel-coloured townhouses lining the banks of the Rhine and fairytale lights of the Christmas market speak of tradition, but the vibe here is altogether more left-field when you scratch beneath the surface. Case in point, swimming in the city's many water fountains is not only permitted, it's actively encouraged. And its most celebrated artist creates noisy sculptures using scrap metal. Throw in a bevy of interesting architecture and a burgeoning street food scene, and you have the makings of a great city break. Here's where to go and what to know ahead of the festivities to plan your next Basel break. What to do Check out the art As the city where the annual Art Basel fair was founded – now a global phenomenon with events in Asia and North America – it's unsurprising that you'll find some pretty edgy artworks here. Museum Tinguely is the most interesting if you're travelling with kids: it houses the single largest collection of works by Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely, whose noisy kinetic sculptures made from scrap metal are chaotic and joyful all at once. The Kunstmuseum is best if your tastes are more traditional, and the building is an architectural marvel in itself. Get on a boat The best way to see the city is from the water, and the year-round brunch cruise is hugely popular with locals and tourists alike. For 77chf (£70), you can hop on board from 10am and enjoy a leisurely sail between Dreiländereck (the tri-nation meeting point) and Museum Tinguely until 1.30pm, all the while eating breads, cheeses and charcuterie to your heart's content. Or catch one of the four ferries – 'Wild Maa', 'Leu', 'Vogel Gryff' and 'Ueli' – for a mere 2chf (£1.80); these are propelled between the two banks by the force of the river. Delight your inner child Spielzeug Welten Museum Basel is a treasure trove of toys, with four floors dedicated to everything from dolls' houses to miniature figurines; a level focused solely on teddy bears features some terrifying-looking specimens. Stroll down Imbergässlein and you'll see Basel's other museum of wonder, Hoosesagg (pants pocket). Set in the door of a 600-year-old house, this two-foot by two-foot display is the city's smallest 'museum'. What began as a way to stop tourists from peering into the private home has since taken on a life of its own, with a regularly changing display to keep visitors coming back. Go for a swim Drifting down the Rhine with your belongings in a Wickelfisch – a fish-shaped dry bag invented in Basel – is an essential part of summer in the city. Enter from the pebble beach just downriver from Schwarzwaldbrücke, next to Museum Tinguely. For safety, stay within the boundaries of the red buoys and watch out for passing ferries. Not much actual swimming is needed – the river will gently take you all the way to Dreirosenbrücke. If you can see the Novartis Pavilion, you've gone too far; swim back with haste. Get festive Like many Swiss, German and Austrian cities, Basel has the right architecture, quaintness and wholesomeness for a December or January break. This year, the city's twinkly Christmas market, on Barfüsserplatz and Münsterplatz, runs until 23 December. Meanwhile, classical concerts are held throughout the month (see for listings) and there's ice skating at the Eglisee rink from November until March 2026. Where to stay Silo Relatively new on the scene is Silo, a boutique hostel in a converted grain store. The feel is industrial chic meets minimalism; it's a little out of the centre, but well connected by public transport. Krafft Basel Located right by the Rhine in one of the aforementioned townhouses, Krafft Basel has been around since 1872. You'll still see traces of period features, like the spiral staircase that sweeps up to the fourth floor or the colourful tiles, but the rooms are smart, modern and well equipped. Book a river-view room with a balcony if you can. Gaia Hotel Perfect for late-night arrivals or early-morning departures by train, Gaia Hotel is an option not far from St. Jakob-Park. The family-run property has a big focus on sustainable living, including organic breakfast, a zero-waste strategy and, of course, clever recycling bins. It's a bit of a treat too, as you can enjoy the sauna all to yourself for an hour as part of your stay. Where to eat Restaurants in Basel are frankly heaving at the weekend, and the most popular options are always booked up at least a week in advance – unless you're happy to sit down after 9pm, as the locals tend to eat early. French dominates the fine dining end of the spectrum here, with traditional Swiss fare firmly in the middle – but this is a university city, so there's a good spread of budget and walk-in friendly food halls, too. The biggest is the cavernous Markthalle, where you can sample everything from Afghan to Thai dishes, with prices around the 10- 20chf (£9-£18) mark. Avoid Sundays, when most stalls are closed. Klara is a smaller alternative that's open daily. The hip coworking space is surrounded by nine food stalls – dishes at the Indian and Greek outfits are among the choicest – with a central bar. Go there as part of a self-guided food tour of the city (39chf/£35). Where to drink Basel is at its best in the summer when everything heads outdoors. Le Rhin Bleu is the watering hole to head to after visiting the nearby Tinguely Museum. The pontoon-style building, semi-perched over the Rhine, is dreamy for sundowners. Or save yourself some money and do as the locals do: buy a bottle of something chilled and go and sit by the water. Most bars have a winter version, too. Take the Sandoase – in summer it's a 'beach' bar with sand underfoot, but, come winter, the chalets and fairy lights come out and it's suddenly a Christmas market. Meanwhile, Campari Bar, where chestnut trees provide ample shade to the sun-dappled courtyard, is the place to meet before dinner, after the theatre or on a summer's eve. In winter, simply cosy up inside to enjoy the warm glow of the impressive bar. The menu is mostly classic cocktails reimagined, plus a smattering of wines. But given it has a signature cocktail, the Kunsthalle Spritz, you might as well start there. Where to shop Freie Strasse is the main shopping street with all of your usual international brands, and high-end flagships like Kurz, where you can buy Swiss watches and jewellery. But if you're looking for small boutiques with unique design, Spalenberg is your best bet. It's worth it just for the novelty of Johann Wanner Christmas House, where you can pick up your Christmas decorations year-round. Before you head home, go to Jakob's Basler Leckerly to pick up a bag or box of Läckerli. These spiced biscuits – a Basel speciality – are made with flour, honey, almonds, candied peel and spices, and they're just the right sweetness for a cup of espresso. Architectural highlight If you like the modern stuff, it's hard to beat the Novartis Campus in St Johann. Designed as a city within a city, the micro hub has everything from office buildings and apartments to shops and restaurants. Every building has been designed by a different architect – Frank Gehry's Cloud building is a highlight – so there's plenty for enthusiasts in one spot. Nuts and bolts What currency do I need? Swiss Francs. What language do they speak? German. Should I tip? Tips are generally included in the price. What's the time difference? They're an hour ahead. How should I get around? Basel is very walkable. All buses and trams in the city are included with your BaselCard, which is free when you book an overnight hotel stay. What's the best view of the city? From the Mittlere Brücke (Middle Bridge). Insider tip? Unless otherwise signposted, all of the fountains in the city pump out drinking water, so refill liberally. Getting there The most direct route is to take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord, then hop on the metro to Gare de Lyon (about 10 minutes), where you change for the TGV Lyria to Basel. The closest airport is EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg, which is actually in France. British Airways and easyJet both fly there from the UK, and it takes just over 20 minutes to get to the centre of Basel by public transport.
Observer
13-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Observer
Basel: a city at the heart of European culture
Basel will be in the international spotlight for a week of festivities surrounding the Eurovision Song Contest but the Swiss city has been at the heart of European culture for centuries. With a population of 180,000, Switzerland's third-biggest city after Zurich and Geneva straddles the River Rhine and sits right on the northern border with both France and Germany. Basel's location played a major role in its growth and continental importance through the ages. From May 11 to 17, it will be centre-stage in Europe again as it hosts Eurovision 2025, the pop music extravaganza that has become one of the world's biggest annual live television events and a giant international party. The influence of the Rhine can be felt in Basel's historic centre, dominated by the twin towers of Basel Minster, where the Dutch thinker Erasmus is buried. But Basel's modern emblems are the two Roche Towers, Switzerland's tallest buildings. Completed in the last decade, standing 205 metres and 178 metres (673 and 584 feet) high, they are the headquarters of the eponymous giant pharmaceutical firm. The chemical and pharmaceutical industries now drive the city's economy. Swiss singer Zoe Me representing Switzerland with the song "Voyage" arrives on the turquoise carpet next to the Basel Town Hall during the opening ceremony of the Eurovision Song Contest 2025 in Basel on May 11, 2025. - Carnival and the arts - Basel is one of Europe's great centres of culture. The first edition of Sebastian Brant's "Ship of Fools", one of the bestsellers of the European Renaissance, was printed in the city. The Rhine spirit is vividly expressed every spring at the three-day Basel Carnival, which transforms the city streets into a river of painted lanterns, colourful masks and creative costumes, flowing to the sound of pipes and drums. The world's biggest Protestant carnival features on UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage list and attracts thousands of tourists. The city has world-renowned museums -- none more so than the Kunstmuseum, the oldest public art collection in the world dating back to 1661. In a referendum in 1967, citizens decided to buy two paintings by Pablo Picasso, who, moved by the vote, would later donate several more works to the city. Across the Rhine, the Museum Tinguely draws in thousands of visitors with its kinetic art sculptures, while just outside the city, the Beyeler Foundation hosts an outstanding collection of modern and contemporary artworks. And every year, art lovers and gallery owners from around the world flock to Art Basel, one of the world's top contemporary art fairs. In sports, Basel is home to tennis all-time great Roger Federer, while FC Basel are on the verge of winning their 21st Swiss football championship. Belgian singer Red Sebastian representing Belgium with the song "Strobe Lights' arrives on the turquoise carpet next to the Basel Town Hall during the opening ceremony of the Eurovision Song Contest 2025 in Basel on May 11, 2025. - Chemicals and quakes - Besides its culture, Basel is now synonymous with the chemical and pharmaceutical industries, home to globally important groups such as Roche, Novartis, Sandoz and Syngenta. The psychedelic drug LSD was created at the Sandoz laboratories there in 1938. Pharma and chemicals make Basel a major player in the Swiss economy, attracting researchers and students as well as cross-border workers. Around 35,000 people cross over from France and Germany, attracted by higher Swiss wages. Basel is the home of the Bank for International Settlements, considered the central bank of central banks. The city is left-leaning, perhaps due to the influence of its university, the oldest in Switzerland, founded in 1460. It has approximately 13,000 students from 100 countries, around a quarter of whom are studying for their doctorates. The city has also lived through major disasters: the great earthquake of 1356 and the Sandoz chemical spill 630 years later. The biggest quake in central Europe in recorded history, and the fires it caused, destroyed a city already ravaged by the Black Death. The 1986 fire at the Sandoz chemical plant on the outskirts of Basel also left its mark due to the ecological disaster caused by toxic chemicals leaking into the Rhine, killing wildlife as far downstream as the Netherlands. —AFP
