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Straits Times
02-08-2025
- Business
- Straits Times
Is Taiwan the new Japan: How restaurants are expanding their food sources
SINGAPORE – Nae:um, a one-Michelin-starred restaurant in Telok Ayer, serves contemporary Korean dishes under the direction of a South Korean chef. Its name is equally rooted in that peninsula, derived from a poetic Korean word connoting a fragrance that evokes memories. The ingredients that make up the restaurant's artful creations, however, draw from a more cosmopolitan range. Seafood, for instance, comes from Japan, Europe, New Zealand an d Singapore. About 70 per cent of the fish on Nae:um's current menu is sourced from local fishermen at Jurong Fishery Port. And the diamond trevally – a rarity in fine dining and modern Korean restaurants – caught off Singapore's coasts is the star of its seafood main course. Diamond trevally on Nae:um's A Hanok Prelude menu. PHOTO: NAE:UM With exacting preparation, chef-founder Louis Han wants to introduce diners to the texture and flavour of the underrated yet delicious fish. 'I'd like to erase the misconception that what is more costly equates to better quality. With proper handling and preparation with care, locally bred fish can taste just as good as fish from Japan or elsewhere,' says the 35-year-old Seoul native. Like chef Han, fine-dining restaurants in Singapore are casting their nets beyond traditional waters – meat and seafood are usually hauled in from Japa n, and wine from France or Italy – and embracing less tapped regions. It mirrors a wider national shift towards greater supply chain diversity. In 2024, the Singapore Food Agency (SFA) greenlit pork from Portugal, beef from Brunei and Poland, and poultry from Turkey . This brought the Republic's total number of food supply sources to 187 countries and regions, up from 140 some 20 years ago. SFA say s this diversification strategy has 'proven crucial in mitigating risks associated with global supply disruptions, arising from various factors including disease outbreaks, climate change and geopolitical tensions'. Top stories Swipe. Select. Stay informed. Singapore New vehicular bridge connecting Punggol Central and Seletar Link to open on Aug 3 Singapore Tengah facility with over 40 animal shelters, businesses hit by ticks Business Property 'decoupling' illegal if done solely to avoid taxes: High Court Singapore HSA investigating teen who was observed to be allegedly vaping in MRT train Singapore 60 years of building Singapore Asia 'Every day, we think about how to upgrade': China's factories see rise in robot adoption Sport Spurs captain Son Heung-min says he is leaving the English Premier League club Life Tastemakers: Burnt-out serial entrepreneur cooks up $16m success with Lau Wang Claypot Delights Such is true in chef Han's case. For him, variety is a safeguard against volatile shipment schedules and price fluctuations. International ingredients compensate for the lack of local produce on public holidays, while alternative sources keep the restaurant running when Japanese stock dries up during Golden Week from end-April to early May. But not all restaurants are driven by practical considerations. Some eschew the easy, stable option for produce that, though inconvenient, aligns with their culinary identity. As Ms Chong Ri Jia – chief executive of FoodPlant, the Singapore Institute of Technology's small-batch food production facility – points out, diversification helps to meet evolving consumer expectations. 'There's rising demand for seasonal produce, speciality ingredients and ethically sourced products, which pushes restaurants and suppliers to explore new regions,' she say s. She adds that more produce from South America, Central Europe and Africa might find its way to Singapore in the coming years. 'These regions offer untapped potential in both quality and cost efficiency, especially as trade routes and supply capabilities mature.' For now, meat and seafood from Taiwan and Ireland are gaining traction in Singapore, as are wine and cheese from Japan. Taste of Taiwan Iru Den chef-owner Javier Low started incorporating Taiwanese ingredients into his menu in 2024. ST PHOTO: DESMOND WEE In 2023, chef Javier Low was plying a well-trodden route to culinary prestige. His ingredients were Japanese and his techniques, European. He was running the show at Iru Den restaurant in Scotts Road, a stretch replete with other Japanese and European establishments celebrated for their premium produce. It was, from the outside, a perfectly viable approach. But behind the scenes, cracks started to show. 'The aftermath of Covid-19 was pretty tough. There were period s w hen the prices of produce from Japan went crazy. And when Japan started releasing treated nuclear waste water from Fukushima into the sea in 2023, we knew that bringing in Taiwanese produce was the right move,' says the 33-year-old chef-owner of the Michelin-selected restaurant. That was also the year he took a trip to Taiwan with his Pingtung-born wife, Iru Den's sommelier Emily Chen, 3 2. There, he was introduced to the wonders of Taiwan – rich, juicy carabinero prawns, maguro and sakura ebi that could give the Japanese versions a run for their mone y , as well as his mother-in-law's cai pu (pickled radish). 'Everyone's supporting Japanese products, so we wanted to take the risk and do something different, more meaningful too because of our connection to Taiwan,' he says. He added that it is rare for Singaporean restaurants to incorporate familial touches in the form of produce grown and prepared by their loved ones. So including his mother-in-law's cai p u in Iru Den's chicken broth and brown butter is the closest he gets to that. Initially, the couple found it difficult to fill their larder with Taiwanese produce. There were few suppliers they could tap in Singapore, so they had to approach fishermen and farmers in Taiwan. Unlike Japan, where produce is brought to a central market and distributed through a tightly organised process, seafood in Taiwan is scattered across its various ports an d d ependent on the whims of fishermen. 'They're a lot more laid-back. If the fisherman wants to fish, he'll fish, but if he doesn't feel like it, then too bad,' observes chef Low, who had to endure a few failed shipments that bit off a chunk of his savings when he first made the switch. Over time, however, the couple cobbled together a reliable band of suppliers through Ms Chen's family connections and fellow chefs. They rebranded as a Taiwanese restaurant in mid-2024 . Now, 80 per cent of the restaurant's produce hails from the island , which saves them around 10 to 20 per cent on ingredient costs. Certain meats are still sourced from other countries – wagyu from Japan and chicken from Malaysia – due to government restrictions, but Taiwanese pork has become a staple on Iru Den's menu since chilled and frozen pork products were approved for export to Singapore in November 2024. Such imports were s uspended in 2009 due to an outbreak of f oot-and-mouth disease in Taiwan. However, SFA has since assessed that Taiwan's food safety and animal health systems meet requirements for accreditation. Taiwanese pork is now available in FairPrice supermarkets, and has been well received by customers, according to a FairPrice Group spokesperson. 'Taiwanese pork is particularly suited for Asian cooking and recipes. It is known for its sweet, juicy and tender qualities compared with other pork variations, an apparent result of Taiwan's advanced farming methods and careful selection process when it comes to pig breeding,' adds the spokesperson. Despite its moreish quality, a minority of chef Low's customers have baulked at the prospect of a meal sourced mainly from Taiwan. 'Perception is always going to be a problem. Some people think Japanese food is always the best, and everything else is cheaper,' he says. 'So we know our job is to show them better, more interesting alternatives.' Irish ingredients Irish whelk at Luce's buffet. PHOTO: INTERCONTINENTAL SINGAPORE Ireland is sometimes called 'The Emerald Isle', and for good reason too. Its rolling hills and wide pastures are covered in a lush blanket of green, on which animals graze for an average of 220 days a year. This, in turn, makes for robust grass-fed meat and dairy products packed with nutrients. In the cold, clean waters that surround the island, shellfish such as oysters, whelk, crab and lobsters thrive. Now, such natural abundance is making its way to Singapore in greater volumes. In 2024, Ireland exported €42.5 million (S$63.2 million) worth of products to Singapore, a 10 per cent increase compared with 2023. It was an especially significant jump for Bord Bia, or the Irish Food Board, as many markets in Europe and the United States experience only single-digit growth. The most drastic jumps in export numbers were observed in the pigmeat category, which surged by 1 47 per cent. Dairy and beef exports also rose by around 20 and 30 per cent respectively. 'Singaporean consumers and food service professionals prioritise food safety, traceability and nutritional value – areas in which Irish produce excel, thanks to Ireland's grass-fed farming systems and rigorous quality standards. Irish dairy is prized for its rich flavour and purity, while Irish beef and pork are valued for consistent quality and adherence to strict animal welfare practices,' says Bord Bia's South-east Asia director Lisa Phel an. She credits Singapore's dynamic hospitality and food service sectors for driving demand. Restaurants such as Carnaby at Robertson Quay import Silver Hill Irish Duck, while Bread Street Kitchen at Marina Bay Sands serves cuts of Irish Beef . Bord Bia also runs initiatives such as its Taste of Ireland campaign, which ran from March to April . Despite a slight dip in drink and seafood exports, which fell by 9.3 and 3.6 per cent from 2023 to 2024 respectively, demand for those products has increased steadily over the last decade. Eateries such as Luce at InterContinental Singapore continue to swear by Irish seafood. For the last 1½ years, the buffet restaurant has stuck to Irish whelk, which it favours for its consistent texture and clean, briny flavour with a subtle sweetne ss. InterContinental executive chef Kenny Chung, 43, says these whelks have an exceptionally clean and delicate taste profile. Supply has remained stable too. Likewise, Irish oysters – with their plump texture, clean salinity and refined mineral finish – regularly stream into Singapore. 'Compared with oysters from other regions, Irish oysters are less metallic and more rounded in flavour, making them highly versatile and elegant on the palate,' says Mr Carl Verrelst, 37, operations manager at Italian restaurant Le Pristine Singapore at Grand Hyatt Singapore. The restaurant serves Irish Mor oysters. Ms Phelan says Bord Bia will continue to promote Irish produce through a campaign scheduled near Halloween, which borrows some traditions from the Gaelic festival of Samhain marking the beginning of winter. It will showcase Irish meats, dairy, seafood and snack brands such as Keoghs crisps that are new to Singapore. While clouds of geopolitical uncertainty loom over the food industry and its supply chains, she is choosing to focus on the silver lining. She says: 'We see potential US tariffs as an opportunity for Irish exporters who are heavily invested in the US to diversify their markets and expand into Singapore and South-east Asia.' Japanese wine and cheese New Japanese wines served at Odette. ST PHOTO: AZMI ATHNI Japanese produce is far from foreign to Singaporeans. But while wagyu and sashimi have thoroughly infiltrated Singapore's kitchens, Japanese wine and cheese – traditionally seen as European domains – remain more elusive. That could soon change, with the profile of Japanese wine, in particular, steadily growing. According to the Embassy of Japan in Singapore and the Japan External Trade Organization, the value of such exports to the Republic has risen from 18 million yen (S$157,000) in 2020 to 51 million yen in 2024. 'The number of Japanese winemakers who have studied abroad, including in France, has increased in recent years, leading to rapid improvement in winemaking techniques,' says Mr Takeshi Koga, 42, first secretary (agriculture and food) at the Embassy of Japan in Singapore. He adds that international awards and attention have also boosted awareness of Japanese wines. Whereas in the past, many Japanese wineries struggled with international outreach due to language barriers and limited marketing experience, producers and export managers – many of whom are educated overseas – have started to help bridge that gap, notes Mr Daisuke Shibuya, 44. He is the head sommelier at Terra Tokyo Italian, an Italian-Japanese restaurant in Tras Street. To him, the appeal of Japanese wine lies in its delicate taste. 'In Japan, most grapes grow in volcanic soil, so Japanese wine contains a high level of minerality. The climate is also cooler , like Germany or Austria , so it has a higher acidity, elegant aroma and lighter body.' While temperature fluctuations once made it difficult to preserve this delicacy during travel, reefer containers as well as better storage and handling techniques mean that the infrastructure to ensure safe deliveries is now firmly in place. Odette wine director Vincent Tan takes an exploratory approach to his curation of pairings. ST PHOTO: AZMI ATHNI Which is why Japanese wines can now be found in restaurants such as three-Michelin-starred Odette at National Gallery Singapore. Its wine director Vincent Tan added the first bottles to the French restaurant's menu two years ago, after a trip to Hokkaido in 2023. Of the restaurant's 1,100 wines, 50 or so are from Japan. 'The wine programme was always meant to be more exploratory,' says Mr Tan, 37. 'For wine pairings, we focus on bringing people to regions they might not expect. And I like the idea of using Asian wine in Asia.' He makes it a point not to pair Japanese wine with Japanese-style dishes. A smoked egg dish with potato and chorizo goes with a sweet and rich Niigata pinot noir, for instance, while a langoustine dish is served with a Hokkaido white. So far, guests seem to love it, and some have purchased bottles of Japanese wine to bring home. It is cheaper than European wines too. Mr Tan says a top-of-the-range bottle from Japan is priced in the same ballpark as a mid-tier French wine, as the former does not yet have the history to command a higher figure. Even the Japanese have yet to fully embrace the fruit of their vineyards. Suppliers who import Japanese wine to Singapore have told Mr Tan that they get little business from Japanese restaurants, which still view French and Italian wines as the apex. Mr Koga hopes that recognition in Singapore will help to spur interest back home. 'Japan takes pride in its craftsmanship and quality. But like Lexus or Suntory whisky, many products are valued at home only after earning praise abroad.' He also notes the improving quality of Japanese cheese, though this has proven a harder sell. The value of its Singapore exports has hovered around 21 million yen since 2020, through worldwide demand has inched up from 520 million yen to 608 million yen over the same period. However, some fine-dining restaurants have started to pave the way for this new category of cheese. For example, newly minted one-Michelin-starred restaurant Omakase@Stevens' summer menu features cheddar from Nagano. Executive chef Kazuki Arimoto believes that Japanese cheese has immense potential, but its prevalence is curtailed by the lack of established import channels, which makes distribution to Singapore difficult. 'Japanese cheeses offer a more subtle but robust character – not overpowering, yet deeply flavourful,' says the 31-year-old. 'In my cooking, I strive to showcase the individuality of each cheese while ensuring a harmonious balance in the dish.'
CNA
23-04-2025
- Entertainment
- CNA
This fine-dining restaurant chef started a tea drinks stall to build his ‘own dream' instead of other people's
At prettily designed stall Cha Mulan in Bedok Food Centre and Market, former fine-dining restaurant chef Kenneth Teo, 30, hawks wholesome Chinese tea drinks. While it's served in cute cups reminiscent of those from bubble tea shops, this isn't your typical bubble tea – there are no tapioca pearls or popping boba here. Instead, think of it as tong shui (Cantonese-style soupy desserts) with TCM benefits plus tea in a cup, offering a similar sip-and-chew experience with nourishing ingredients like goji berries, peach gum, poached pears and snow fungus. But like bubble tea, the sugar level here is customisable. Teo is a culinary school grad (he declined to name the school) who worked at establishments like one-Michelin-starred mod Korean restaurant NAE:UM and award-winning NEL Restaurant in Sydney, for about five years. "I like the Disney character Mulan," Teo shared, referring to his stall's name which was inspired by Chinese folk heroine Hua Mulan. "I envision my company to be like her: Aesthetic, but also very strong in nature." WHY BECOME A DRINK STALL HAWKER? "I 100 per cent enjoyed being a chef at high-end places," Teo asserted. "The people I crossed paths with were the most talented individuals, all highly motivated to push limits. I always felt I could achieve anything when I was with them." Despite thriving in fine-dining, Teo's perspective shifted later. "Hawker centre culture has always excited me," he explained. Perhaps the fact that Teo's grandfather used to operate a yong tau foo stall in Bedok North, Ah Joo Handmade Fish Ball, now run by his uncles, also helped motivate him to become a hawker. He used to help make fish balls and yong tau foo at the stall when he was in school. "Hawkers are the heart and soul of Singapore's culinary heritage," he added. WANTS TO BE HIS OWN BOSS, SPOOKED BY MUM'S RETRENCHMENT IN THE PAST Inspired by his girlfriend's love for bubble tea, Teo wanted to create a healthier alternative, which sparked Cha Mulan's concept. "These aren't your typical pearls," he explained. "We use peach gum – a natural collagen that grows in peach trees. It's well absorbed by our bodies, and kids love the texture." His career change was also driven by practical concerns. "My mum was retrenched when I was young. That experience taught me that I never want to face job insecurity," Teo shared. "Building other people's dreams is never a long-term goal. Building your own dream is always the end goal." "The Singapore government encourages entrepreneurship, and there are grants available. The hawker community has a true kampong spirit – everyone is willing to try new things and support each other." In October 2024, Teo opened his first stall at Bedok Food Centre and Market, originally called The Flower Mulan. A chance encounter would soon transform his solo venture into a far more ambitious partnership. ACCIDENTAL PARTNERSHIP AND STALL EXPANSION Enter Teo's business partner, the marketing savvy Josiah Tan, 33. "I was having kway chap at Bedok Food Centre when I saw an uncle take a drink sample from Kenneth's stall. Within 10 seconds, without even checking the price, the uncle said, 'gei wo yi bei' [give me one cup in Mandarin]," recalled Tan. Intrigued, he tried a sample himself and was won over. The SMU business management and marketing graduate launched a business consulting firm focused on helping SMEs grow in his second year of university and ran it for almost a decade. He has since stepped back from that business, which his partner continues to run. Why the pivot to owning a hawker brand? Tan said his grandparents used to run a chicken rice stall, working gruelling hours in sweltering heat. "My grandmother would turn to neighbouring stalls for a cup of Coke to seek relief from the intense heat," Tan recalled. "By 38, she developed diabetes. Back then, people didn't understand the long-term implications of these seemingly harmless daily habits." Her condition progressively worsened, leading to two amputations. "Her soul and zest for life were sucked out because of diabetes," he said softly. "What if, 40 or 50 years ago, the stall behind hers wasn't selling sugary drinks, but a healthier alternative like our tea where you can control sugar levels? That's one of the biggest reasons I'm doing this," Tan emphasised. "Beyond just making money, we want to provide drinks that can contribute to people's well-being." TWO WEEKS TO FORM BUSINESS 'MARRIAGE' Tan reached out to Teo via Instagram and met him four days after first sipping his drinks. "Our values are aligned. I was the one chasing him," Josiah laughed. "It took about two weeks to chase him, and then we got married together business-wise, which was much faster than me chasing my wife!" Tan invested a "sizeable amount" from his savings to join the business, though he's reluctant to reveal exactly how much. "Enough to go on many, many holidays," he quipped. With his marketing background, he helped repackage and rebrand the concept, tweaking the brand to a catchier "Cha Mulan", and creating product names, while Teo focuses on the recipes. TONG SHUI IN A CUP Prices range from S$4.90 to S$5.90 a cup, with eight base ingredients to choose from. For example, there's the Cleanse Mulan, which comes with poached pear and silky snow fungus. The pear is simmered with lemon and ginger for over eight hours – an old-school remedy for respiratory issues like coughs and colds inspired by Teo's grandparents' recipe. "The Cleanse Mulan is my mum's personal favourite," Tan laughed. "She has trouble with constipation. After she drank that, wah, qing qing (smooth in Mandarin)!" After selecting a base, customers can choose from three teas: Artisan White Peach Oolong, Artisan Osmanthus Oolong, or the Artisan Tea of the Day – all brewed on-site using tea leaves from China. Next comes the option to customise sugar levels, which range from 0 to 100 per cent (they recommend 50 per cent), followed by a choice of ice levels to suit your preference. OPENING SHOP AT JEWEL CHANGI AIRPORT SOON Since opening the first stall in October 2024 at Bedok Hawker Centre, Cha Mulan has already expanded to Chinatown Complex Food Centre, Marine Parade and Bukit Merah. While the business is growing steadily, Tan admitted they haven't broken even on their initial investment yet. He clarified that while they are sole brand owners of Cha Mulan, they aren't direct owners of all the outlets. Instead, he said they partner with stall owners who run the various outlets under the Cha Mulan name. "Our goal is to bring Cha Mulan to as many people as possible – across Asia, including Malaysia and China," he boldly declared, adding that they are open to franchising. Cha Mulan is opening two more outlets within the next few months, this time beyond hawker centres: A standalone shop in Ang Mo Kio Avenue 8, and more impressively, a kiosk at Jewel Changi Airport in July. "This isn't just a business," Tan emphasised. "It's a mission inspired by a deeply personal family story."
Korea Herald
19-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Korea Herald
NAE:UM offers Korean fine dining in heart of Singapore
Chef Louis Han's Michelin-starred restaurant blends modern techniques with the soulful essence of Korean flavors, creating multisensory dining experience SINGAPORE -- Tucked along a vibrant street lined with restaurants and bars in the heart of Singapore, NAE:UM quietly asserts itself as a symbol of Korean culinary evolution. Since its 2021 debut, the fine-dining restaurant has won accolades including a Michelin Star and the Michelin Guide Singapore's 2022 Young Chef Award for its chef, Louis Han. Named after the Korean word for a 'fragrance that evokes memories,' NAE:UM reflects Han's vision -- to craft dishes that stir the past while embracing modern techniques. In a city renowned for its culinary diversity, the Korean chef has carved a niche with his 'contemporary Seoul cuisine,' blending Western culinary styles with Korean heritage flavors. NAE:UM occupies a two-story space with an unassuming yet elegant exterior -- a pale lemon-yellow facade with a light wood door that invites guests into its warm, dimly lit interior. Inside, the design is minimalist yet comforting, setting the tone for an intimate dining experience. The staff greets guests by confirming reservations and guiding them to their seats, whether at the dining tables or the bar seating thoughtfully prepared for solo diners. The restaurant isn't large, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in atmosphere. With an open kitchen at its corner, guests can observe the calm precision of Han and his team of Korean and local staff, quietly crafting each course with meticulous care. The chef occasionally steps out to introduce the dishes himself, adding a personal layer to the experience. Episode 9: A culinary story in nine acts Currently titled 'Episode 9,' the tasting menu reflects Han's storytelling approach to food. Offered in two formats -- the Signature Course at SGD 268 ($204) and the Classic Course at SGD 228 -- each nine-course journey includes the option of creative alcoholic or nonalcoholic pairings, including Korean traditional liquors -- a hit among international diners. The journey begins with a trio of amuse-bouches: a jorim tart topped with sea urchin; a buchimgae kimchi tartlet with crispy edges; and ganghwae, a refreshing bite of scallop, herbs and cucumber jelly. The next course, deokgalbi, reimagines the beloved Korean beef patty. Here, it's paired with a crispy rice puff and pickled cucumber, adding brightness and crunch. Tomato dongchimi is both nostalgic and new, combining marinated tomato, spring salad, horse mackerel sashimi and caviar in a broth that nods to traditional water kimchi but is elevated with a slick of chili oil and a foundation of cucumber jelly. Memilmyeon, or buckwheat noodles inspired by Han's childhood, arrives adorned with abalone, flying fish roe and white kimchi sliced into the shape of a flower. The dish bridges past and present -- a tribute to the simple noodle meals his parents prepared on weekends, now transformed into a flavor-rich homage. Next is chogye, a reinterpreted cold chicken soup, featuring zucchini blossoms stuffed with chicken and a pea-based broth poured tableside refreshingly acidic. As the warm dishes begin, the complexity of Han's technique deepens. Perhaps the standout dish of the evening is Diamond, made with diamond fish, named not just for its rarity but its value. The fish, similar in texture to cod or salmon, is served with a creamy doenjang (fermented soybean) sauce, thinly sliced radish and doenjang-marinated vegetables. The so galbi includes smoky beef short rib, a tofu soy reduction and grilled perilla-stuffed onion, served with your choice of artisanal knife made from olive wood, buffalo horn or deer antler. A side of kale salad adds contrast, though its texture may not appeal to everyone. The penultimate savory course, gulbi, is a labor of love. Han personally dries and salts the yellow corvina, a rarity in Singapore. It's served over stone pot rice with sesame oil and three Korean side dishes: white kimchi, wood ear mushrooms and dubujang (tofu sauce). Guests may choose their rice portion -- another thoughtful touch in an already meticulous experience. Sweet endings, rooted in tradition Dessert begins with ddalgi, a strawberry yogurt sorbet with white asparagus mousse -- a delicate balance of sweet and savory. Then comes a juak, a Korean rice doughnut served warm over truffle cream and finished with Martell XO cognac. Rich and aromatic, it feels like a finale in itself. The meal concludes with a quartet of traditional sweets: jeongpyeon (fermented rice cake), gangjeong (crispy puffs), omija jelly and sujeonggwa (spiced punch). The latter, aged for a month and rich with cinnamon, aids digestion while offering a final floral note. NAE:UM offers a meal composed of narrative told through taste, memory and culture. Chef Louis Han masterfully fuses Korean tradition with modern elegance, creating a dining experience that's both intimate and expressive. Reservations are highly recommended. Allow at least two hours for the full course experience. As Korean cuisine gains global recognition on the back of international hit dramas and shows, a new wave of chefs is bringing refined, modern interpretations of traditional flavors of Korea to cities around the world. This is part of a series that introduces Korean fine dining outside of South Korea. --Ed.
