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New Indian Express

Desert dreams

Cushions of sequins shimmered like desert sand, silhouettes swayed like windswept dunes, and heritage met haute couture in a dramatic fashion comeback. Rina Dhaka, one of India's most iconic designers, made a striking return to the runway—this time in Dubai, at The Afra World, a rising platform for South Asian luxury that's quickly shaping global conversations in fashion. Curated by Niti Gupta, founder of the NIFT Alumni Network and a long-time force in fashion entrepreneurship, The Afra World was envisioned as more than just a showcase—it's a statement. 'South Asian designers bring with them a vast repertoire of design sensibilities, artisanal skill, and cultural depth. Platforms like The Afra World create space for these voices to be heard globally—opening new markets, new narratives, and redefining what luxury means today,' says Gupta. Dhaka's latest collection, inspired by the Sahara Desert, is an ode to both fragility and power. Working with an earthy palette of ecru, ivory, and sand, the designer channeled the ever-changing moods of the desert—from sunlit shimmer to soft shadows. 'We were inspired by the vastness and colours of the dunes, the sparkle of sun on sand. Sequinned handwork mimics that shimmer, while the silhouettes flow like wind over the landscape,' explains Dhaka. But this collection was more than just surface beauty. Known for her commitment to sustainable design, Dhaka incorporated repurposed bias-cut silks, organic cottons, and even cording waste dried and reworked into decorative detailing. Each piece took upwards of 100 hours to create—luxury, not just in look, but in labour.