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Pakistan's climbers are taking the nation to the top of the world
Pakistan's climbers are taking the nation to the top of the world

Khaleej Times

time4 days ago

  • Khaleej Times

Pakistan's climbers are taking the nation to the top of the world

On the jagged, wind-ravaged ridges of Earth's highest peaks, where oxygen is scarce and survival is never guaranteed, a quiet revolution is unfolding, led by Pakistanis. Once seen as the playground of foreign climbers and elite alpine nations, the world of high-altitude mountaineering is now being shaped by young Pakistani trailblazers who are not only challenging the extremes of nature, but also long-held narratives about what's possible. As the country marks independence, the ascent of four climbers - Asad Ali Memon, Sirbaz Khan, Sajid Ali Sadpara, and Naila Kiani - speak to a deeper national story: of resilience, reinvention, and reaching heights once thought unimaginable. Asad Ali Memon's journey from the flat, sun-scorched plains of Larkana to the towering summits of the world is a remarkable tale of determination, courage, and breaking barriers. Hailing from a region with no mountains, limited resources, and a climate that seems worlds apart from the icy peaks he now conquers, Asad's story is one of defying odds and challenging deep-rooted myths. In 2019, he made the bold decision to turn his passion for mountaineering into a full-time pursuit. With no prior international climbing experience and minimal support, he embarked on his first expedition to Mount Elbrus in Russia, the highest peak in Europe. Against all expectations, he became the youngest Pakistani to stand atop this summit, a moment that fueled his resolve and set him on a path of continuous achievement. 'Mountains don't let you rush,' Asad reflects thoughtfully while talking to Khaleej Times. 'They demand patience, respect, and a willingness to face failure before success.' His steady progression through the years culminated in a landmark achievement in 2023 when he summited Mount Everest, becoming the first Pakistani from Sindh and only the tenth Pakistani overall to do so. For Asad, reaching Everest's summit was more than a personal victory, it was a powerful message that no one's background or circumstances should define their potential. The challenges escalated further when he tackled Antarctica's Vinson Massif, the coldest peak on earth. 'Preparing for Vinson was unlike anything I'd faced before,' he recalls. 'Coming from the hottest part of Pakistan, I had to overcome not only the brutal cold but also mental battles. My gear was second-hand, and I had to rely heavily on breathing techniques and sheer willpower.' Despite the harsh conditions, Asad's unwavering determination saw him through. 'I told myself I didn't come this far to quit. Vinson was a test of everything I had learned, and I passed with frost and pride.' As he now looks ahead to completing the final climb of the Seven Summits, the highest peak of Oceania, Asad's vision transcends personal glory. 'This journey is no longer just about me,' he shares. 'I want young people from Larkana, or any part of Pakistan where privilege is scarce, to believe that the world is theirs to explore. Mountains are not just for those born in the hills; they're for anyone with the courage to climb.' Asad Ali Memon's story is a beacon of hope and perseverance, reminding us all that barriers are often illusions, the greatest limits exist only in our minds. Sirbaz Khan: The oxygen-free elite Sirbaz Khan has etched his name in history as the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world's peaks above 8,000 meters without supplementary oxygen — an extraordinary feat officially confirmed by the Alpine Club of Pakistan. The 34-year-old climber from Hunza Valley in Gilgit-Baltistan completed this monumental journey after conquering Nepal's 8,586-meter Kangchenjunga, the world's third-highest peak, in a triumphant ascent that marks the culmination of a remarkable career. Since beginning his climbing journey in 2016, Sirbaz has steadily pushed the boundaries of Pakistani mountaineering. He made history in 2019 by becoming the first Pakistani to summit Mount Lhotse without oxygen support and has since stood atop iconic peaks including Nanga Parbat, K2, Broad Peak, Annapurna, Gasherbrum II, and Everest. In October 2024, he reached the summit of Shishapangma in Tibet, sealing his place among the elite few worldwide who have conquered every 'eight-thousander' unaided by bottled oxygen. Sirbaz's achievement is a testament to relentless determination, skill, and the spirit of adventure thriving in Pakistan's mountainous north. Sajid Ali Sadpara: Legacy at altitude Carrying the legacy of his legendary father Muhammad Ali Sadpara, who tragically lost his life on K2 in 2021, Sajid Ali Sadpara is not just walking in his father's footsteps, he's carving a path of his own. In spring 2025, Sajid achieved a major milestone by summiting Dhaulagiri (8,167m) in Nepal without supplemental oxygen or porters, becoming the first to summit the peak that season. It marked his ninth 8,000-metre peak, all climbed solo and without oxygen. 'Climbing is not just my profession, it's my inheritance,' he said. 'Every step I take is for my father, for the country, and for the belief that Pakistani climbers belong on the global stage.' At just 29, Sajid is now positioned to become the youngest Pakistani to complete all 14 of the world's highest peaks without bottled oxygen, a mission he continues with humility and purpose. The summit of national pride What binds these climbers together isn't just geography or grit, it's their shared commitment to elevating Pakistan's global identity. Whether it's the determination of Asad in Antarctica, the discipline of Sirbaz at altitude, the legacy-driven mission of Sajid, or the ceiling-breaking success of Naila, each story speaks to a deeper narrative of progress. As Asad Ali Memon puts it: 'The biggest myth I've broken is that you need to be born in the mountains to climb them. You don't. You need heart. You need hunger. And you need to remember that nothing, not even the sky, is the limit.' This Independence Day, these climbers don't just remind us of the power of dreams, they prove that Pakistan is not just climbing, it's soaring.

Dubai adventurer tells how tragedy and 'toxic' climbing culture made her question historic mountain quest
Dubai adventurer tells how tragedy and 'toxic' climbing culture made her question historic mountain quest

The National

time03-06-2025

  • Health
  • The National

Dubai adventurer tells how tragedy and 'toxic' climbing culture made her question historic mountain quest

Fierce competition among elite climbers at the rooftop of the world forced one Dubai climber to reconsider her challenge to become the first Pakistani woman to summit the 14 highest peaks on the planet. Former banker Naila Kiani thought long and hard about resuming her challenge before taking on Mount Kanchenjunga (8,586 metres), the third-highest mountain in the world, on May 23, almost two years since her last climb. With 11 mountain climbs in the bag in 2023, Ms Kiani looked set to achieve her goal before tragedy struck during a competitive climb of Shishapangma that claimed the lives of four of her colleagues. An avalanche at 7,800 metres cost the lives of Anna Gutu and Gina Rzucidlo, who were racing to become the first American women to achieve the feat of scaling 14 mountains above 8,000 metres. Their Sherpa guides Migmar Sherpa and Tenjen Lama also perished during the climb on October 7. Mount Shishapangma was the final peak left for both women to complete the big 14. Those tragedies caused Ms Kiani to reflect on her own attempt to join an elite band of 16 women to compete the mountaineering endeavour. 'At the time of the accident there was a toxic competition among climbers to achieve their goals, but the mountain wasn't ready,' Ms Kiani, a mother of two, told The National after arriving back in Dubai from Nepal. 'There was fresh snow, which can be dangerous, but everybody still went ahead because there were two women competing to be the first American to climb the 14 peaks. That year, I had already climbed eight mountains in less than six months. I wanted to complete this challenge as soon as possible, but last year, after everything that happened, I nearly gave up." One climb at a time As she returned to training early this year, and after much soul-searching, Ms Kiani refocused on first scaling Kanchenjunga – the highest mountain in India. Before completing her expedition to the peak, she endured a crucial phase of acclimatisation at a 6,400-metre base camp to adapt her body to the extreme altitude. This process underscores the physical and mental discipline required for such a treacherous climb, and is a critical aspect of every climb at altitude. Having already successfully summited 11 of the 14 highest mountains on Earth, including Everest, K2, Annapurna, Lhotse and Makalu, Ms Kiani hopes that by resuming her challenge, she can inspire others. 'Unfortunately the last few years for climbing has turned into this competition to be the best, rather than an opportunity to use the mountains to develop yourself, learn and become a better person,' she said. 'What happened in Shishapangma is a really good example of how the mountain conditions were ignored because people got complacent and thought they were invincible after climbing 13 mountains. 'We never imagined for a second there could be an accident. Bad weather conditions are ignored just because of this competitive mindset. Most Pakistani women, especially after getting married and having kids, 95 per cent of them don't follow their passion. I had a lot of messages from around the world encouraging me to continue, which I found inspiring. I have a bigger purpose to carry on, but definitely the incident put me off for many months.' Before looking towards revisiting the challenge of climbing Shishapangma later this year, Ms Kiani faces weeks of preparation. Summer training That will now take place in September, before she plans to complete the set of mountain peaks by climbing the 8,167-metre Dhaulagiri in Nepal in April 2026. Until then, she will spend the summer in Dubai, and use the mountains of Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah as training grounds. 'Living in Dubai, all I can do is go hiking and get in the gym to focus on my strength training and cardio,' said Ms Kiani. 'Sometimes I hike during peak summer hours because in the mountain when the sun is out, the UV rays get reflected and we are wearing down suits which makes it really hot, so the training environment is very useful. 'Of course we need to keep in mind the dehydration, and not to put ourselves on risk. I once got hit by a rock in the UAE and I got stuck in a flash flood, so anything can happen, even here. 'Whether it's a small mountain or a big mountain, safety is always priority, but I'm confident I will come back safely to my children. On every mountain, I keep praying for a safe summit.'

Naila Kiani summits Kanchenjunga
Naila Kiani summits Kanchenjunga

Business Recorder

time24-05-2025

  • Business Recorder

Naila Kiani summits Kanchenjunga

LAHORE: Pakistani mountaineer, Naila Kiani, has successfully summited Kanchenjunga (8,586m)—the world's third highest mountain, becoming the first Pakistani woman to conquer this formidable peak. With this milestone, Naila now stands among an elite group of global mountaineers, having scaled 12 out of the world's 14 highest peaks above 8,000 meters, continuing her unprecedented journey of defying limits. With just two summits remaining, she is edging closer to becoming one of only 17 women in the world to have conquered all 14 of the planet's 8,000-meter giants. Naila is not only a climber but a change-maker. She has led environmental campaigns, such as a high-altitude cleanup at K2, and a recovery mission for Pakistani porter Muhammad Hassan Shigri, bringing closure to his grieving family. As a mother of two, a former banker, and a passionate advocate for sustainable climbing, Naila Kiani defies traditional molds and inspires a new generation of Pakistanis, especially young women, to dream beyond the boundaries placed before them. Naila Kiani's rise in the mountaineering world is as inspiring as it is unprecedented. From her first successful summit of Gasherbrum II—achieved while balancing a demanding career in finance and the responsibilities of motherhood—to conquering giants such as Everest, K2, Lhotse, Annapurna I, and Makalu, she has consistently defied the odds and broken barriers. In just under three years, she became the first Pakistani woman to summit 11 of the world's highest peaks above 8,000 meters. These include K2 (8,611m), known as the savage mountain and Pakistan's tallest peak; Everest (8,848m), the highest peak in the world; Lhotse (8,516m); Makalu (8,485m); Annapurna I (8,091m); as well as Broad Peak, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Gasherbrum I and II, and Nanga Parbat. In 2023 alone, she achieved the extraordinary feat of summiting seven 8,000-meter peaks within just six months, placing her in the company of only a handful of climbers worldwide to have accomplished such a milestone in a single climbing season. Behind Naila's extraordinary pursuit of the world's highest peaks stands a consistent force—the BARD Foundation. Their continued support is not just a partnership, but a commitment to seeing her through to the summit and beyond. Mehreen Dawood, Member – Board of Governors, shared, 'Naila represents the very spirit we aim to nurture at BARD: resilience, courage, and the unwavering pursuit of excellence. Her summits are not just personal victories—they are milestones for all Pakistani women. We are proud to support her journey and amplify the impact she continues to make globally.' Abdul Razak Dawood, President – BARD Foundation said, 'What Naila has achieved is historic. Her drive, integrity, and purpose embody the values of the BARD Foundation. We believe in backing talent that breaks barriers, and Naila is the perfect example of what can be accomplished when ambition meets opportunity.' Copyright Business Recorder, 2025

Naila Kiani summits Kanchenjunga
Naila Kiani summits Kanchenjunga

Express Tribune

time23-05-2025

  • Express Tribune

Naila Kiani summits Kanchenjunga

Naila Kiani became the first Pakistan female mountaineer to set foot on the Kanchenjunga peak, the world's third highest mountain, as she continued to her journey to scale all the 8,000 metres high mountains, commonly known as the 'Eight Thousandars'. The 8,586-metre high Kanchenjunga peak is the 12th Eight Thousandar, summited by Kiani. With two more, she would join the 17 elite women mountaineers in the world who have conquered all the 14 Eight Thousandars. She now sets her sight on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. In just under three years, she became the first Pakistani woman to summit 11 of the 14 Eight Thousandars – K2 (8,611m); Everest (8,848m); Lhotse (8,516m); Makalu (8,485m); Annapurna I (8,091m); besides Broad Peak, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Gasherbrum I and II, and Nanga Parbat. In 2023 alone, she achieved the extraordinary feat of summiting seven 8,000-meter peaks within just six months, placing her in the company of only a handful of climbers worldwide to have accomplished such a milestone in a single climbing season. Kiani, a former banker and mother of two, is not just a climber but an environment activist, who inspires a generation of Pakistani women to dream beyond the boundaries placed before them. She is a passionate advocate for sustainable climbing. Previously, she led environmental campaigns, such as a high-altitude clean-up at K2, and a recovery mission for Pakistani porter Muhammad Hassan Shigri, bringing closure to his grieving family, according to The BARD Foundation, which supports Kiani's expeditions. "Naila represents the very spirit we aim to nurture at BARD: resilience, courage, and the unwavering pursuit of excellence.

Dubai resident Naila Kiani summits world's third highest mountain
Dubai resident Naila Kiani summits world's third highest mountain

Gulf Today

time23-05-2025

  • Sport
  • Gulf Today

Dubai resident Naila Kiani summits world's third highest mountain

Dubai resident and Pakistan's pride and mountaineering icon, Naila Kiani, on Friday morning, at 4:44am (UAE Standard Time, has successfully summited Kanchenjunga (8,586 metre) — the world's third highest mountain, situated in Nepal, becoming the first Pakistani woman to conquer this formidable peak. This remarkable achievement makes her only the second Muslim woman in history to climb 12 of the planet's 14 peaks above 8,000 metres, accomplished by 16 women historically. Naila is not only a mountaineer but a change-maker. She has led environmental campaigns, such as a high-altitude cleanup at K2 , and a recovery mission for Pakistani porter Muhammad Hassan Shigri, bringing closure to his grieving family. As a mother of two, a former banker, and a passionate advocate for sustainable climbing, Naila defies traditional molds and inspires a new generation of Pakistanis, especially young women, to dream beyond the boundaries placed before them. Naila Kiani with her team members wave Pakistan's national flag at Kanchenjunga mountain. Before starting the summit push, through a message to her team, Naila had said, 'Climbing Kanchenjunga has been an incredibly difficult expedition and a harsh reminder of how hard it is to climb mountains over 8,000m.' 'Kanchenjunga is known for its treacherous terrains and unpredictable weather,' she added. Living in Dubai and proudly sponsored by the BARD Foundation, Kiani credits both the UAE's ambitious spirit and her sponsor's rock-solid belief in her potential as key forces behind her journey. 'The UAE has been more than just my home, it has been the gateway to everything I dared to dream,' said Kiani after the summit. 'This is a country that doesn't just believe in the impossible, it makes it happen.' Naila Kiani credits the UAE's ambitious spirit as a key force behind her journey. 'Behind Naila's extraordinary pursuit of the world's highest peaks stands a consistent force, the BARD Foundation. Their continued support is not just a partnership, but a commitment to seeing her through to the summit and beyond.' Abdul Razak Dawood, President - BARD Foundation, praised the historic nature of her achievement. 'What Naila has achieved is historic. Her drive, integrity, and purpose embody the values of the BARD Foundation. We believe in backing talent that breaks barriers, and Naila is the perfect example of what can be accomplished when ambition meets opportunity.' Naila began her summit push at 5:30pm UAE time on Thursday after a full day of climbing. Battling through the night in brutal high altitude conditions, facing heavy snowfall, extreme cold, and dangerous terrain, she reached the summit of Kanchenjunga in the early hours of Friday (May 23) . Her endurance and courage under such conditions reflect not only her personal grit but also the relentless pursuit of excellence fostered by her home in the UAE. Naila has already summited 11 out of the world's 14 peaks above 8,000m, including Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum-I, Gasherbrum-II, Annapurna, Lhotse, Manaslu, Makalu and Cho Oyu. The 14 Peak Challenge remains one of the greatest tests in mountaineering: only 14 mountains on Earth rise above 8,000 metres, each posing deadly risks and extreme physical demands. With 12 summits now behind her, Naila is closer than ever to completing this elite challenge. Born in Pakistan, studied at university in the United Kingdom, and shaped by a decade of life in Dubai, Naila embodies the multidimensional identity of the modern Muslim woman. She is an aerospace engineer, banker, mother of two, competitive boxer, and co founder of the AI startup In 2023, she was awarded the Sitara-e-Imtiaz, Pakistan's highest civilian honour, becoming the first and only sportswoman in the nation's history to receive the distinction. But her journey transcends borders, sending a global message of what is possible when courage meets opportunity and when belief, both institutional and personal, fuels the climb. As Naila prepares for the final two 8,000 metre peaks, she stands not only on the edge of mountaineering history but as a symbol of what women, Muslims, and Dubai based athletes can achieve on the world stage. Earlier, it was reported that Kiani was in Nepal preparing for her next formidable challenge: summiting Kanchenjunga (8,586 metres), the third-highest mountain in the world. This expedition marks another powerful stride in her mission to become one of the few climbers globally, and among an even more elite group of women, to scale all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres. A recipient of the Sitara-i-Imtiaz, one of the highest civilian honours, Kiani is a modern symbol of resilience, diversity, and multidimensional success. An aerospace engineer, competitive boxer, mother of two, and tech entrepreneur of she is also the founder of Naila Kiani Adventures, a travel and expedition company.

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