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Daily Mirror
27-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Daily Mirror
'Paradise' town on the real Salt Path has dolphins and hidden coves
Salcombe in Devon is one of the many pretty seaside towns that sit on the South West Coast Path, which runs from Minehead in Somerset, along the coasts of Devon and Cornwall, to Poole Harbour in Dorset Gillian Anderson's new film The Salt Path has shone a spotlight on a particularly scenic part of the country. On May 30, the flick hits the cinemas. It features the Sex Education star lining up alongside White Lotus's catatonic father of three, Jason Isaacs, in what looks to be a heartwarming British classic. The movie tells the real-life story of Raynor and Moth Winn, a couple who lost their home before discovering one of them has a terminal illness. They attempt to come to terms with their new financial and medical status while embarking on a year-long coastal trek on the South West Coast Path. The South West Coast Path is England's longest waymarked long-distance footpath and a National Trail, stretching as it does for 630 miles (1,014 km) from Minehead in Somerset, along the coasts of Devon and Cornwall, to Poole Harbour in Dorset. The walk is considered to be particularly difficult as the path rises and falls at every river mouth, leading walkers who complete the route to scale 35,031 metres - close to four times the height of Mount Everest. If you are considering taking on the whole of or a stretch of the South West Coast Path, then you could do worse than stopping off in Salcombe. The Devonshire seaside settlement was recently called a ' paradise town ' and has earned the nickname 'Chelsea by the sea'. If you do make it there, here's an idea of what you can do, where you can stay and the best places to eat. What to do Dolphin watching Bottlenose dolphins are known for their friendly and playful nature. They are characterised by a robust body, a short beak, and a curved dorsal fin. These dolphins are frequently seen in coastal waters around Devon, especially near Salcombe, Torbay, and Exmouth. They often approach boats, and you might even see them bow-riding and performing acrobatic leaps. Burgh Island Famous for its links to Agatha Christie, the sea tractor and as a former haunt for pirates and smugglers, this island is a short drive away from Salcome around the headland. Walk around the island and explore the remains of the chapel. Spot the wildlife that lives on its shores. Stop for a baguette or pint on the shoreline. Paddle Boarding Salcombe Paddleboarding is on hand for equipment hire, guided tours of the estuary and one-on-one tuition. It is basd at Port Waterhouse which is walkable from Gara Rock, or a five minute drive. Whitestand Boat Hire Explore the beautiful Salcombe Estuary by water. Hire a self-drive boat with Whitestrand Boat Hire. They'll show you the ropes, so you don't need any experience to take the wheel. If you'd rather leave the piloting to someone else, the company also offers mackerel fishing trips. It's a popular attraction, so you'll need to book in advance. Overbeck's Garden Escape to a sight of vast trees, bright skies, and a boat or two bobbing on the estuary. Overbeck's Garden is a hidden paradise of subtropical gardens. Filled with exotic and rare plants, you'll think you've stepped into a wonderland. Gara Rock Beach This secluded beach is nestled among dramatic cliffs and is known for its natural beauty and tranquillity. It is the ideal place to take a stroll along the coastal path while enjoying the scenic views. Maceley Cove This secret cove is a 20 minute walk from Prawle Point car park but if it's a remote spot you're after, it's perfect. Spend a day on the soft sand, go for a swim in the clear water or pack your snorkelling gear and explore the world beneath the surface. It's dog friendly too. Elender Cove Snuggled between rugged cliffs, Elender Cove is the hidden gem of Sam Hams. Be prepared for steep access but don't let that put you off. It's well worth it for the turquoise sea and lovely sandy beach. Some say it's one of the prettiest beaches on this section of the coast. Check the tides as the sand all but disappears at high tide. Moor Sand Moor Sands is the perfect hidden gem, known for its crystal-clear waters and serene environment. It is also the perfect beach day adventure. To reach the beach, you need to walk along the Southwest Coastal Path for 2 miles from Prawle Point. Along the route, you see spectacular views of the dramatic cliffs and sea. North Sands Beach Just a few minutes' walk from Salcombe is the stunning North Sands Beach. This is another family-friendly spot with beautiful sand and rock pools for children to explore. It is perfect for swimming, rock pooling, and dining at the nearby Winking Prawn café. Prehistoric caves Step back in time to the Stone Age as you explore the labyrinth of caverns at Kents Cavern. Home to Britain's earliest humans and Ice Age beasts. This all-weather attraction offers plenty to do outside of the caves too, from woodland trails to family activities. Where to stay Gara Rock Hotel Gara Rock, perched on a seaside cliff top in East Portlemouth near Salcombe, offers a unique escape for those seeking indulgence, tranquility, and natural beauty. Guests can choose from carefully designed rooms, suites, and self-catering residences. Gara Rock also has a gin bar which is located in its residents lounge, as well as a 12 seater, dog friendly cinema room. Where to eat Crab Shed The Crab Shed offers a relaxed ambience with great views. Delight in seafood and coastal delicacies, capturing the essence of the sea. It's an idyllic spot to immerse yourself in Salcombe's maritime charm while savouring delicious flavours from the ocean. The Winking Prawn The Winking Prawn is a beloved coastal eatery in Salcombe that exudes laid-back charm and seaside vibes. Indulge in fresh seafood and classic beachside fare while soaking up the sun on the sandy terrace. Where to drink The Ferry Inn The Ferry Inn is Salcombe's oldest pub and is highly regarded as one of the best pubs in the town. Enjoy hearty pub classics and local ales amidst panoramic waterfront views. Unwind in the cosy atmosphere, where Devonian hospitality shines through every dish and drink. The Victoria Inn The Victoria Inn in Salcombe is a warm, historic pub with a traditional bar serving locally sourced ales and classic dishes on the menu. It's a perfect spot to relax and experience genuine Devonian hospitality. The Crabshell The Crabshell in Salcombe offers a modern waterfront dining experience with excellent estuary views. Enjoy fresh seafood dishes, local produce, and a diverse drinks menu in a relaxed, coastal atmosphere. Perfect for any occasion.
Telegraph
24-05-2025
- Telegraph
I've hiked the entire South West Coast Path three times – here's how to tackle it yourself
The South West Coast Path has always been absolute A-list, a clear favourite of many trail-wise walkers. At 630 miles it is Britain's longest National Trail, and arguably its most gorgeous – a ravishing rollercoaster of dazzling turquoise bays, ruggedly handsome cliffs and comely fishing coves. Now it's receiving the Hollywood treatment. Raynor Winn's best-selling 2018 memoir, The Salt Path, shone a light on the trail; now the book is being brought to the big screen, with Gillian Anderson in the lead role – but with the dramatic British scenery stealing the show. Filmed on location, the movie will likely tempt many more hikers to tackle the trail for themselves. I've walked the route from start to finish three times; here's how to begin. The route The South West Coast (SWCP) should be called the Smugglersʼ Way. After all, smugglers are the reason Somerset, Devon, Cornwall and Dorset have such fine footpaths around their edges. In the early 19th century, bootlegging was rife, so the coastguard was founded and patrol routes blazed along the cliff-tops to curb the illegal shenanigans. Now it's walkers patrolling the coast, similarly gazing at every cove, crevice, sweeping beach and comely harbour, imbibing the spirit of smugglers past. The SWCP was created in stages from 1973, becoming an official National Trail in 1978. It runs from Minehead to South Haven Point, near Poole, via Exmoor National Park, several National Landscapes and two UNESCO-listed sites; towns such as Penzance, Falmouth, Plymouth and Torquay; and a joyous confection of bays, headlands and tearooms. It hugs the sea as closely as possible, bar a few inconvenient estuaries and crumbling cliffs, but it's no easy beach walk. The trail is always undulating, notching up 35,000m of ascent and descent: the equivalent of climbing Everest four times. Of course, you don't need to walk the lot in one go. That usually takes six to eight weeks, but many people tick it off in sections, over many years. Once started, you won't want to stop. The highlights It's hard not to love Exmoor's secretive combes (and its idyllic Lee Abbey Tea Cottage), the seal-bobbed Lizard Peninsula and the unexpected jungly-ness of the Undercliff, near Lyme Regis. For atmosphere turned up to 11, there's cliff-tumbling Clovelly, teensy Penberth Cove, Helford Passage (heavy with Daphne du Maurier vibes), tucked-away Noss Mayo and Falmouth when the Sea Shanty Festival comes to town in June. For natural wow, you might pick Bedruthan Steps beach, lofty Golden Cap, the cliffs rippling from Hartland Point – or that wild, remote spot you found, where basking sharks cruised by and the only sounds were the choughs and the sea. The five best segment walks 1. Porlock to Combe Martin, Somerset and North Devon 26 miles, 2 to 3 days The 26-mile Exmoor coast makes for a marvellous, if testing, weekender, combining the country's smallest church (Culbone), highest sea cliff (Great Hangman), highest water-powered funicular (Lynmouth) and arguably finest view (Valley of Rocks), plus magical combes and relative solitude. The Ilfracombe-Minehead EX1 bus runs May 25 to August 31 2025; use it to walk shorter sections. Where to stay Lynton's Highcliffe House (01598 752235) has B&B doubles from £145. 2. Crackington Haven to Port Issac, Cornwall 20.5 miles, 2 days Hike from surfy Crackington Haven to the quintessential Cornish fishing village of Port Issac via plunging valleys, dramatic headlands, Boscastle harbour and myth-laced Tintagel. Your friend here is Bus 95, which runs Bude-Wadebridge with useful stops enabling linear walks – for instance, Boscastle to Tintagel is an excellent five-mile stroll. Where to stay Tintagel's Ye Olde Malthouse (01840 770461) has B&B doubles from £85. 3. Praa Sands to Lizard, Cornwall 17 miles, 1 to 2 days Land's End has been blighted by development, but Britain's true southern extremity – the Lizard – remains breathtaking. Start from golden Praa Sands (accessible by bus from Penzance) and trace the cliffs to Porthleven, ancient Gunwalloe Church and gorgeous Mullion and Kynance coves. Reward yourself at Ann's Pasties. Alternatively, the Lizard can be looped on a satisfying four-mile hike. Where to stay Mullion Cove Hotel (01326 240328) has B&B doubles from £190. 4. Salcombe to Dartmouth, South Devon 23 miles, 2 days The walk between these estuary towns begins with a foot ferry, rounds the ancient stones of Prawle Point, visits the lost village of Hallsands, traces Slapton's shingle and dips to Blackpool Sands before reaching Dartmouth Castle. Buses run from both Salcombe and Dartmouth to Totnes, for train links. Something shorter? Park at East Prawle for a four-miler around the wild headland. Where to stay The Cricket Inn (01548 580215), in midway Beesands, has B&B doubles from £135. 5. Lulworth to Swanage, Dorset 21 miles, 2 days This section is tough. And sometimes off-limits: military firing can restrict access to Lulworth Ranges (check before walking). But Henry Stedman, author of Traiblazer's great SWCP guides, reckons this is the best weekender of all. There are fossilised forests, ancient barrows, calf-busting cliffs, a marine centre (at Kimmeridge Bay) and a sense of real wilderness. Seasonal buses link Lulworth and Swanage; Swanage has bus links, plus a steam train to Corfe Castle. Or opt for a six-mile Isle of Purbeck circuit via Dancing Ledge quarry and Worth Matravers' Square & Compass pub. Where to stay Kimmeridge Farmhouse (01929 480990) has B&B doubles from £130. How to do it How fit do you need to be? The SWCP is a stiff challenge, and will be much more enjoyable if you build strength and stamina beforehand. But, as Raynor Winn proved, you don't need to be hardcore hikers, as long as you take it slow and steady. Many thru-hikers walk themselves fitter; many others walk it in shorter, more manageable sections or day hikes. When to go April to June is a delight – milder, drier weather, blooming wildflowers and increasingly long days but fewer tourists. Peak summer can be hot and heaving. Things quiet and cool nicely in September and October. Winter walks can still be spectacular but some facilities shut down: for example, ferries over estuaries tend to operate April to October. What to book Many tour operators offer SWCP trips. Macs Adventure (0141 530 5452) breaks the trail into ten five- to nine-day sections, and offers a 57-day self-guided Full Path trip from £6,899pp including B&B accommodation and bag transfers. How to get to the start and end points Minehead is around 75 minutes by No 28 bus from Taunton station, which has train links to London, Bristol and beyond. From the end at South Haven Point, a ferry crosses to Sandbanks for buses to Poole's train and coach stations. Other points en route with rail access include Newquay, St Ives, Penzance, Falmouth, Plymouth, Exmouth and Weymouth; buses connect many villages but may only run seasonally and/or infrequently. Insider tips Allow time for exploration. Must-sees such as Tintagel, St Michael's Mount and Agatha Christie's Greenway lie on or near the trail – it would be a shame to rush past without visiting. There's so much up and down – take walking poles to protect your knees and help with balance. Also, become a member of the South West Coast Path Association, to receive the annual guide and Trailblazing magazine, and to contribute to the trail's up-keep; members who walk the whole path can claim a free completer's certificate (£29.95 per year).
Telegraph
24-04-2025
- Telegraph
How to tackle Britain's greatest walking route
The Pennine Way, a National Trail, is Britain's oldest long-distance footpath. Opened on April 24 1965 with a ceremony on Malham Moor, it paved the way for public access to some of England's wildest landscapes. The route passes through three national parks – the Peak District, the Yorkshire Dales and Northumberland – as well as the North Pennines National Landscape (formerly AONB). Approximately half the Way crosses open moorland or through pastures and about a tenth of the trail is forest, woodland or riverbank. Whose idea was it? Tom Stephenson (1893-1987) was brought up in Whalley and championed the creation of national parks and the right to roam. He was secretary of the Ramblers Association and, as a journalist at the Daily Herald, penned a seminal 1935 article about a 'long, green trail' linking the Pennines to Scotland. He campaigned tirelessly for 30 years to create the Pennine Way and authored the first official Pennine Way guidebook, published by HMSO in 1969. Alfred Wainwright's Pennine Way Companion was published by the Westmorland Gazette a year earlier. Where does it go? Despite being a Lancastrian man's vision, the Pennine Way bypasses the county, following England's rocky spine from the hills of the Derbyshire Peak District and the Yorkshire Dales, through the Swaledale Valley, across the North Pennines and over Hadrian's Wall in Northumberland to the Cheviot Hills, ending on the Scottish side of the Borders in Kirk Yetholm. On the official interactive map you'll notice that the route is not arrow-straight, with a major dog-leg close to Barnard Castle and a west-to-east section along Hadrian's Wall near Haltwhistle. Leisure-oriented towns within walking distance of the Way include Hebden Bridge, Haworth, Horton in Ribblesdale and Hawes. When in doubt – or lost – think: letter H. What are the highlights? The literal high points include Kinder Scout, Bleaklow Head, Black Hill, Pen-y-ghent, Black Hill, Great Shunner Fell, Great Dun Fell, Cross Fell, Windy Gyle and the Schil – ranging in altitude between 1,900 and 2,900 feet. Landmarks are the Kinder plateau, Malham Cove, the Tan Hill Inn (the UK's highest pub), Swaledale, High Force, Cauldron Snout, High Cup, Hadrian's Wall and the border ridge through The Cheviots. How long does it take? The official length of the Pennine Way is 268 miles, but most walkers hike something closer to 253 miles. The longer length includes both sides of the Bowes Loop, both route options into Kirk Yetholm, the alternative route at High Cup Nick and the detour to the summit of The Cheviot. Full-length walkers typically allow between 16 to 19 days to walk the Way, hiking 13-15 miles each day. It's no mean feat, and some people prefer to break it into three or four separate challenges, or walk only those sections where the landscape and weather are less inclined to be bleak and lonely. The National Trail website breaks the walk into 16 sections. Guidebook publisher Cicerone suggests splitting the Way into 20 one-day walks. How fit do you need to be? The original premise of the path was to be as natural as feasible, containing 'no concrete or asphalt'. Early Pennine Wayfarers faced bothersome stretches of waterlogged terrain, no rare thing along a watershed. There are still morasses and peat bogs – worst after winter and big storms – but, to protect the peat and to prevent the path from growing wider than the M6, slabs have been laid over many of the delicate, erosion-prone areas. The entire Pennine Way involves an ascent of 40,000 feet, more than summiting Everest. But there are very few steep gradients compared with tackling, say, the Lakeland fells or crossing the Pennines via the Coast to Coast. If you can read a map and comfortably walk at least 12 miles in a day, you will be capable of completing the Way. Add rest and recovery days to your schedule if you can afford the time. When to go? The Pennine Way is busiest in the summer months, when people take their big annual holidays. It's the most pleasant time to walk in Northern England, accommodation, pubs, facilities and bus services are up and running, and camping is viable. Long days and reliable(ish) sunshine turn even moorland tramping into a holiday experience. Spring and autumn can be lovely, too, with fine days and flowers or fading foliage. Newborn lambs add their cute baas to the birdsong in mid-spring. Autumn sees blackberries and, if the summer has been dry, solid ground underfoot. Winter is usually harsh in the Pennines, with bitter cold and deep snow getting more probable the further north you go, meaning walkers have to consider extra kit and back-up plans. Is the route waymarked? The Pennine Way is a designated right of way from start to finish. This means it should be open at all times and always be free of obstructions. The route comprises public footpaths, bridleways, byways and highways. Signposts usually include the works 'Pennine Way' and the official National Trail 'acorn' symbol, plus a directional arrow. The Pennine Way intersects with the Pennine Bridleway on a handful of occasions, when it pays to be alert so you don't take a major diversion. What direction is best? Most people walk the Pennine Way from south to north, because southwesterly winds are more common than northerlies or northeasterlies – and it's more pleasant to have the wind on your back than in your face. That said, if you go in the other direction, you can count on days getting warmer as you walk. The southern half also has more towns, villages, pubs, transport options and people. Can I cycle or ride it? Only 30 per cent of the route follows bridle paths, so if you want to cycle rather than walk you'll need to divert onto the equally challenging 205-mile Pennine Bridleway National Trail. It claims to be 'specially designed' for horseriders, but information on stabling and horse-friendly accommodation is thin on the ground. Where can I sleep? The Pennine Way has a range of accommodation options, including hotels, B&Bs, hostels, bunkhouses and campsites, but they tend to be clustered around busy villages and towns and in some places walkers may be limited to a single address. There are four bothies along the route – at Top Withens (aka 'Wuthering Heights'), on the north flank of Cross Fell (the highest peak on the Way), close to Lamb Hill and south of the Schil. Are luggage transfers available? A handful of companies offer accommodation booking and/or baggage transfer along the Pennine Way. Sherpavan and Brigantes – among others – provide luggage transfer services from March 31 to October 19. The idea is to carry what you need for 3-5 days and then swap all your kit. Transfers cost £23.50 to £40 per bag per move. Macs Adventure, Mickledore, and Walkers Britain are among the tour firms selling self-guided holiday packages, which are essentially accommodation bookings plus luggage couriers. Footpath Holidays offers three six-day walks (covering the whole Way) with guides, but its July 2025 departures are already sold out. See a comprehensive list of tour operators here. How do I travel to the start and end points? Most railway lines and bus routes cross the Pennines from east to west and vice-versa, and relatively few routes run parallel to the Pennine Way. Edale is on the Hope Valley line linking Manchester and Sheffield. Kirk Yetholm is served by the 81 bus from Kelso, which has the 67 bus to Berwick-upon-Tweed for the East Coast Main Line. More details here. What kit do I need? Standard backpacking gear is needed, including a rucksack you can comfortably carry, sturdy boots, hat, good waterproofs, a change of dry clothes, flashlight, sun protection and sunglasses. Check the weather and consider the season. Take the relevant OS map(s) – you can buy a weatherproof bundle of seven maps for less than £100 – and don't rely on phones, GPX or digital services. What do you get for completing it? Half a pint and a certificate at the Border Hotel in Kirk Yetholm – which has ensuite bedrooms with baths and showers.
