3 days ago
Goa's quiet neighbourhood of Moira is now home to Solene, a luxurious private club
North Goa's quaint and lush tropical setting is experiencing a quiet gentrification. This was my first thought as I stepped into Solene, the newly opened private-members club. Travelling through the winding village roads of Moira, flanked by greenery on both sides, I had just arrived at this magnificent, restored 100-year-old Portuguese villa that has the signature elements of an old Goan home — terracotta roof, wide steps leading up to a wraparound veranda replete with a balcao.
Once inside, I'm enveloped in the hushed luxury that is as unmistakable, as it is exquisite.
Timeless charm
The address that houses Solene, built in 1910, was once home to the de Souza family. It has been restored by The Isprava Group, helmed by Nibhrant and Dhimaan Shah, which ensured that the villa's timeless appeal, spatial planning, emotional arc, gleaming chandeliers, deep-polished wood, and soaring ceilings were kept intact.
'When we first ideated a members-only club, the vision was simple — to create a brand that is the best in the world and while being exclusive and luxurious, it should still be unpretentious,' pointed out Nibhrant Shah, managing director and co-CEO, Isprava Group, who have been creating luxury villas in Goa for a few years now.
Private clubs can sometimes feel like impenetrable bastions for the well-heeled to mingle. Most offer exclusive spaces where one can relax with like-minded people. But, since this is Goa, that stuffiness has been displaced by an unfussy vibe and beautiful spaces. Take for example, the Members' Lounge — once the intimate parlour of the de Souza family, with a stunning red chandelier, or Bar 507, a moody social space for perfectly mixed cocktails. Also, there is Clementina's Garden, formerly a cowshed and now an outdoor dining space, and the bike garage, which has been transformed into a an outhouse for children.
The grotto in Filomina's Garden is a beloved family relic that has been preserved. The most beautiful of all, is the Orangerie, the club's all-day restaurant — a sunlit glasshouse, surrounded by botanicals and tastefully done in white and blue upholstery. It also has a gym, sauna, cold plunge pool and pickle ball court.
Dinner table
The Isprava team knows well that Goa is the creative crucible for food and beverage, and has brought in Rahul Gomes Pereira of Passcode and Jamun fame to helm food and beverage. Chef Picu, as he is fondly known, keeps the menu creative and evolving. He aims to keep improvising on it in order to bring in newness.
His quiet brilliance is evident, not just in the menu, but the careful integration of elements in every dish. Take the citrus rocket salad we, open our meal with. The raspberry dressing makes the flavours dance, but little bits of caramelised goat cheese bring in an element of restraint — the perfect balance.
The prawns a la plancha with with byadgi and bhavnagri chillies, are beautiful, as expected. The unexpected comes in the form of the Bang Bang Cauliflower, a truly banging rendition of flavours and textures. The cauliflower florets crunched, are relenting and tender on the inside. The soy sauce, sesame and mirin lend an Asian touch, while the creamy yogurt bed suggests a European angle.
The tagliatelle is gently perfumed with truffle and pizza, with a sourdough base, is worth saving one's appetite for.
There are dessert options, but if you had just one, then it should be the Basque cheesecake served with a raspberry-hibiscus sauce, one of the best I have ever had. Not heavy and dense, but with a delightful creaminess to it.
Bar code
The beverage program at Solene has all the classics, but its cocktails give members the reason to linger at the bar.
Velvet & Vice is a crisp and herbaceous vodka cocktail, while Flor de Sol is gin-based, bright and light; perfect for those low-alcohol seekers. O Lar Do Chorizo brings smoke, spice and soul into the glass with a certain savouriness from the chorizo, fat-washed into the drink. They have their own take on the negroni and there's one for the picante-loving brigade, as well.
The service team is warm and hospitable, some of them hail from well-known hotel brands and luxury clubs in Mumbai.
Since the private club culture is a very urban concept, it is interesting to see Goa embrace this new form of connectedness.
Solene is a nod to the growing 'settler' population that has now made Goa their home, and are maybe seeking a warm space to decompress.
A meal for two at Solene is priced ₹1,500 (without alcohol) and ₹2,800 (with alcohol); open from , it is located at House No. 501, Calizor, Near Babi Chawan, Moira Village, North Goa.
