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How Prada's ‘sandal scandal' sparked a revival for India's Kolhapuri craft
MUMBAI, July 3: Indian footwear sellers and artisans are capitalizing on nationalist pride sparked by the recent Prada 'sandal scandal' to increase sales of Kolhapuri sandals, a traditional ethnic footwear with roots dating back to the 12th century. This renewed interest offers hope for reviving the struggling craft.
Sales of Kolhapuri sandals have surged over the past week after Prada faced criticism for showcasing similar designs during Milan Fashion Week without initially crediting their Indian origin. The sandals are named after Kolhapur, a historic city in Maharashtra state where artisans have crafted these slippers for centuries.
Following widespread backlash from Indian artisans and social media users, Prada acknowledged that its new open-toe footwear drew inspiration from these ancient Indian designs. The fashion house has announced plans to engage with local artisans and possibly manufacture the sandals in India in collaboration with local producers.
E-commerce platforms and footwear brands in India are taking advantage of the global spotlight. Mumbai-based Ira Soles launched targeted social media ads promoting its handcrafted Kolhapuris, priced at $32, highlighting their connection to the Prada controversy. Sales have increased significantly, with discounts offered by other sellers like Niira, whose Kolhapuri slipper sales have tripled recently.
While Prada caters to a luxury market with sandals priced over $800, Kolhapuris remain affordable, with prices as low as $12. Despite this price gap, the association with Prada has created fresh marketing opportunities for the traditional footwear, which is crafted by around 7,000 artisans.
Kolhapuri sandals, also known as chappals, are handmade in small factories and commonly paired with Indian attire. They are available through major retailers such as Bata India, Metro Brands, and online marketplaces including Amazon and Flipkart.
The Indian government estimated in 2021 that Kolhapuri exports could reach $1 billion annually, though recent data is lacking. Artisans have struggled as consumers increasingly favor modern, fashionable footwear. However, industry leaders like Lalit Gandhi, president of Maharashtra's primary industry group, see the Prada incident as a chance to revive this "dying art" and are in talks with Prada for a possible co-branded limited edition sandal.
Craftsman Ashok Doiphode, who hand-stitches sandals for nine hours daily, hopes the Prada attention will help artisans secure better prices. Currently, he sells a pair for just 400 rupees ($5), but believes collaboration with big brands could improve earnings for craftsmen like himself.
