5 days ago
How's the Chicken? You'd Better Not Ask
London's in the middle of a rotisserie chicken craze. Everyone here has a list of favorites, with arguments breaking out that are almost as heated as those over the fine points of burgers and pizza. My go-to's are Norbert's, across the Thames, in East Dulwich, where a whole bird comes with multiple sauces on the side, plus maddeningly addictive frites; and the bird at The Knave of Clubs, marinated in North African-style charmoula, rich in garlic, cumin and other spices.
Unlike burgers and pizza, however, chicken — while relatively inexpensive as an ingredient — can fly both high and low in terms of cuisine. It can be served bone-in with morels and a buttery vin jaune sauce; or it can present itself as a little, breaded, irresistible, deep-fried nugget.
