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Irish Independent
08-08-2025
- Irish Independent
Refreshing red wines for lighter summer sipping
The Loire is great hunting ground for the vibrant red wines that suit summer so well. Cabernet Franc in Chinon and neighbouring Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny offer piquant red fruits seasoned by leafy, woody herbs and stony minerality thanks to the limestone-rich soils of this stretch of riverbank, where cellars are carved into the soft, chalky local limestone known as tuffeau. Besides today's wine of the week from Saumur-Champigny, O'Briens has a fine expression from the Bollinger-owned Chateau Langlois (€21.95). Other juicy Loire reds feature floral Gamay and elegant Pinot Noir, grapes that star further south east in Beaujolais and Burgundy respectively (more of which next week). One commonality of these three regions is their relatively cool climates. Lower temperatures naturally slow the ripening of the grapes' sugars, which allows time to ripen the phenols that create complex aromas in the resulting wines. Cool climates also preserve the grapes' natural acidity, allowing for lighter-bodied, lower alcohol wines with vibrant fruit and lively freshness. Beyond France, many cool-climate regions produce similarly fresh and fragrant wines. In the hilly stretch that hugs its north-western coast, 'Green Spain' regions like Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra, Monterrei and Valdeorras stand out for their Pinot-like Mencia. Further inland, the heat soars, but the coolnees of high-altitude pockets like Sierra de Gredos outside Madrid allows for elegant, restrained expressions of bush-vine Garnacha that balances all that juicy fruit with fine freshness. Italy's Alpine regions of Alto Adige and the Dolomites produce nervy reds with local Lagrein, Schiava and Teroldego, while the high acidity of Chianti's Sangiovese and Piedmont's Barbera make tangy options. Austria's answer to Pinot Noir, Blaufrankisch, turns up as Kekfrankos in Hungary and Frankovka in Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia and Croatia. New Zealand's Pinot Noir are lighter than Burgundy's, while Chile's Cinsault and Pais from cool-climate Itata Valley are great summer calls. Wines of the week Domaine Filliatreau Chateau Fouquet Saumur 2021, Loire, France, 13.5pc, €25 Cool Cabernet Franc from one of Saumur's best regarded producers, this is pale and light in appearance, with fragrant aromas of forest floor, papery bark, hints of eucalyptus, rosemary and other woody herbs meeting wild strawberry, cherry and raspberry notes. Sour cranberry and rosehip dominate at first on the very fresh palate, but then pretty strawberry notes unfurl, making for refreshing, moreish, medium-to-light-bodied drinking with lots of freshness. Whelehans Wines, Loughlinstown; La Garnacha Salvaje del Moncayo, Spain, 13.5pc, €17.50-€20 A wild mountain wine from Vintae's Projecto Garnacha series, which explores the potential of old bush vine Garnacha along the Ebro Valley in northeastern Spain. Expect energy, purity, herbal lift and generous red fruits that are sweet without being cloying. Independents including Pinto Wine, Whelehans Wines, A Pie De Tierra, Gre2 Garnacha, Sierra de Gredos, Spain, 13.5pc, €21-€22 A natural red wine with notes of dried flowers, rosehip, orange zest, pomegranate and sour purple fruit, carefully crafted from old, dry-farmed Garnacha vines grown at 600 metres above sea level west of Madrid, in a mix of granite rock, granitic sand, schist and other soils. Fíon Eile, Neighbourhood Wine, Green Man Wines, Domaine Sérol Eclat de Granite 2023, Côte Roannaise, France, 12.5pc, €28 If you love Beaujolais from the granitic soiled cru of Brouilly, this Gamay St Romain from the Loire Valley foothills of the Massif Central strikes a wonderful balance of ripe richness with lively tart freshness, with peppery raspberry, cherry and violet fragrance. Whelehans Wines and other independents, Mitchell & Son; Pour Ma Gueule Clos des Fous, Itata Valley, Chile, 13.5pc, €20-€21 A delicious blend of dry-farmed, old-vine Cinsault and Pais from renowned winemaker and soil specialist Pedro Parra, this is juicy and bright with smoky bacon notes for a fun barbecue pairing. Or Pedro Parra 'Vinista' (€26, is an ethereal expression of pure Pais. Pinto Wines,
Irish Examiner
01-08-2025
- Lifestyle
- Irish Examiner
Wine with Leslie: Three bottles for your August bank holiday barbecue
The August bank holiday weekend is my favourite of the year. I love the warm days and warm evenings with just a whisper of autumn in the air. The 'season of mists and mellow fruitfulness' has begun as Mr. Keats said. I should also mention that my birthday falls on August 2, which happens to be Saturday, the first time I've written a column for my birthday since 2014. So, yes, I like the August bank holiday in part because I get presents, I love presents! Everyone imagines I open fabulous, expensive bottles for my birthday but this is rarely the case. I'm mostly looking for fruit-forward aromatic whites that might match prawns (or lobster) simply grilled on the barbecue. This could be a Pouilly-Fuissé with a bit of age or maybe a Viognier or a Greco di Tufo. If I'm cooking a butterflied lamb or sirloin steak (never fillet) on the barbecue I could go for red Bordeaux, but it's more likely I'm drinking a lightly chilled red such as Eric Texier's Chat Fou or the Azul y Garanza wine featured below. For my last roundy birthday I did serve aged Bordeaux with steak-frites to some wine appreciating friends, but more importantly we began with lobster and vintage Champagne, the biscuity intensity of aged fizz is a perfect foil for meaty sweet lobster. I promise that such extravagance is a rarity, I'm just as likely to be drinking a pet-nat with some prawns. So when do I open the good bottles, you might ask? Well, honestly, it could be any day of the week, but is most likely going to be a Sunday when I've cooked a roast and I'm trying to distract myself from the fact that the weekend is over. Fine wine is a lovely distraction. Suggestions for the bank holiday weekend are assuming you will be having a barbecue. L'Ostal Cazes Rosé, Minervois, France, €11.96 L'Ostal Cazes Rosé, Minervois, France, €11.96 O'Briens Bank holidays and rosé go very well together and O'Briens have their annual rosé specials on offer until the end of August with 25% reductions. From the Cazes family of Ch. Lynch-Bages, this pours pale salmon pink with subtle rose petal and red fruit aromas and a touch of tropical fruit balanced by citrus freshness. I also recommend Delheim (€11.96), Gaia (€14.96) and Petit Bourgeois (€14.96). Domaine la Sarabande 'Misterioso' Faugères, France, €15-17 Domaine la Sarabande 'Misterioso' Faugères, France, €15-17 Matson's Bandon, Grange and YoughaL (€15); O'Briens; Whelehans Made by Paul and Isla Gordan, an Aussie-Irish couple who grow organic old-vine Carignan, Grenache and Syrah in a remote part of the Languedoc. Minimum intervention, wild yeasts and always respecting terroir their wines are delicious; this is fruit-focused with cherry and blackberry scents, herbal smoky notes and soft dark fruits. Perfect for grilled sausages, also watch for the blanc and the juicy PIG red. Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje 2021, Navarra, €24-26 Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje 2021, Navarra, €24-26 Mannings, Little Green Grocer; Vintry; Bubble Brothers; This organic minimal intervention wine is from 35 year old Garnacha vines grown in the Desert of Bardenas Reales in Navarra — hot days, cool nights and poor soils. Wild yeast ferment, part amphora aged with light plum and red currant aromas, supple and juicy and suited to light chilling. I'll be serving this with grilled free-range pork from the bbq this weekend. Spirit of the Week McConnell's Whisky, 5 Year, Sherry Cask Finish, 46% ABV, €49 McConnell's Whisky, 5 Year, Sherry Cask Finish, 46% ABV, €49 Celtic Whiskey Shop Dublin and Killarney (and online). Two-time winner in the blended category of the Irish Whiskey Awards, so long due a mention here. Founded in 1776 but revived more recently with a new distillery (and visitor experience) in the old Crumlin Road Gaol. Aged 5 years in Bourbon cask and finished in Oloroso. Fruitcake, chocolate and dark honey aromas, sweet black fruits on the palate, supple, balanced and delicious.
Irish Independent
25-07-2025
- Lifestyle
- Irish Independent
Barbecue-friendly wines that won't break the bank
Today's wines have been chosen as much for their excellent value as for their food-friendly style. On a long and lazy day in good company when the chats are flowing and the night is still drawing in slowly, who wants to be stressing about the cost of opening another bottle? If you're expecting a crowd, a smart way to cut costs is with bag-in-boxes or pouches, especially given the greatly improved quality of the wines available in these alternative packaging formats. The boxes typically start at two and a quarter litres, going up to 10 litres, and the wine inside keeps well for up to four to six weeks should it last that long. They are an eco-friendly alternative to glass bottles, which — being energy-demanding to produce, to transport and to recycle — are typically the greatest single contributing factor in your wine's related carbon emissions. This alternative choice is better for your pocket as well as for the planet. It's interesting to compare the cost of one of today's red wines, Altano Rewilding, which I previously recommended as a bag-in-box from O'Briens. The wine is a collaboration between Symington winery and Rewilding Portugal, and each sale supports the rewilding of 120,000 hectares in northern Portugal. O'Briens recently introduced the same wine by the bottle, which is solid value at its current sale price of €13.56; but at €32.36, the two-and-a-quarter-litre box is equivalent to three bottles at €10.80 each. My wine of the week — a charming white wine from a leading Portuguese winemaker, João Portugal Ramos — is even more affordable: a three-litre bag-in-box that is equivalent to four bottles at €9.68 each. For something more mobile-friendly, wine pouches are very handy for parties, festivals and camping trips. I previously recommended the sassy Un'Ombra Refosco Red (Molloy's, €26.99 for one and a half litres); it does a decent Sauvignon Blanc at the same price. Two of today's wines are limited-edition specials offering exceptional value from reputable wineries: Wirra Wirra in South Australia from Lidl and Ben Marco in Mendoza from Dunnes Stores. Also in Lidl and worth a spin is Breath of Paradise (€11.99), a fun and slightly cheeky take on a certain market-leading Provençal rosé, with its identical font type and distinctive silvery wings, not to mention candied peach and honeydew melon character. Wines of the week Ramos Elegant White 2023, Alentejo, Portugal, 12pc, €38.70 (3l) Portugal is a sure bet for value, as this three-litre bag-in-box proves. Working out at four bottles for €9.68 each, this is a cracking option for a barbecue, summer party or a holiday-home fridge. Respected winemaker João Portugal Ramos blends four local grapes (Arinto, Fernão Pires, Talia, Trincadeira) for an intriguing wine with tropical fruit aromas and lively minerality and grapefruit peel notes on the fresh palate. A lovely pairing for olives, nuts and other nibbles, and a versatile food match too. O'Briens Wine; Altano Rewilding Edition 2022, Douro, Portugal, 13pc, €13.56 Deliciously crunchy with juicy freshness making a perfect red pairing for fattier fare like lamb koftas, burgers and sausages, with appealing peppery, herbal notes meeting red plum and pomegranate. Also available in a bag-in-box (€32.36 for 2.25-litre box), which equates to three bottles at €10.80 each. O'Briens Wine; Learn more Wirra Wirra Scrubby Rise Chardonnay 2022, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, 12.5pc, €9.99 This steal of an unoaked Chardonnay (while stocks last) from reputable Wirra Wirra winery is bright, and layered citrus aromas of lemon curd, fingerlime and lemon grass lead to a crisp, linear pithiness on the nicely weighted palate. Seafood heaven. Lidl Ben Marco Plata Malbec, Uco Valley, Chile, 12pc, €12 (until July 29) A great-value introduction to the wines of influential winemaker Susana Balbo, this high-altitude limited-edition Malbec blended with a little Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc is rich and punchy with black cherry and toasted spice, good acidity and ripe tannins. Think sausages, burgers and spicy marinades. Dunnes Stores Domaine Cailhol Gautran Cantus Vitis 2023, Minervois, France, 14.5pc, €15 A nuanced blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah to please all palates at a family barbecue. Plush but balanced by juicy acidity, and aged in stainless steel rather than oak to keep it fruit forward, with savoury and herbal notes bringing complexity to raspberry and loganberry fruits. Whelehans Wines;
Irish Examiner
18-07-2025
- Irish Examiner
Wine with Leslie: Three bottles you won't find in a supermarket
Yes, I spoil the cat. Lucy is 12 now, and we are best buddies; she is asleep beside me as I write this. The Engineer does not understand why we need five brands of cat food in the house, but I do: Lucy is like me, she gets bored easily and her palate needs constant stimulation. How boring to live in a world of just Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay. So this week I have chosen three tasty whites made from lesser-known grapes that offer flavour, texture and character but are not likely to be found in a supermarket. I was delighted to be sent a bottle of Angelo Gaja's 'Idda' from Carricante grapes grown on the slopes of Mount Etna recently and it was this that kicked off the idea. Gaja's Piedmont wines are mainly found in the cellars of the world's best restaurants and are simply unaffordable, so Idda at €65 is almost a bargain (almost). Also on the Sicily shelf watch out for Grillo, Catarratto and Inzolio and in red Nero d'Avola and Nerello Mascalese. I am due to visit Etna this September so I will have more to say on Sicily later in the year. Italy in general is a treasure trove of indigenous grapes, watch also for Greco, Falanghina, Pecorino, Garganega (Soave) and Fiano (Lidl have a good one). The entry level white below is from Godello, which has similar texture to Albarino but frequently more character. Also from Galicia watch for Treixadura (Ribeira), Loureira and Caiño Branco. These Galician grapes are also found in Portugal where you should try Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro, Encruzado and Fernão Pires to name just a few. Clio below is made with Assyrtiko which you may know but also Roditis and Savatino. Also from Greece watch for Moschofilero, Malagousia, Robolo and many others. I will return to this subject in a couple of weeks. Alma Godello, Monterrei, Spain €13.56 Alma Godello, Monterrei, Spain €13.56 O'Briens; Normally €17 this is a solid intro to the joys of Godello, Galicia's other great white grape. Monterrei is in southern Galicia on the Minho river but this grape is at its finest in Valdeorras further north or in Bierzo to the east. Baked pear and apple fruits with a hint of bitter lemon, creamy and layered with stony freshness and a bitter lemon zing. Clio The White Muse, Viotia, Greece, €19 Clio The White Muse, Viotia, Greece, €19 Cavavin Limerick & Galway; The Carpenter; The Lep; Wine Pair; Sweeneys; From just north of Thebes (home of Dionysis) in the Valley of the Muses beside Mount Helicon. This is a blend of Assyrtiko, Roditis and Savatiano, three of Greece's best white grapes. Lime, peach and pineapple aromas, sapid, fruity and juicy with delightful texture and balancing acidity; this worked brilliantly with barbecued pork chops. Idda by Gaja & Graci, Etna Bianco, Sicily, €65.99 Idda by Gaja & Graci, Etna Bianco, Sicily, €65.99 The Parting Glass; Foleys; and in the likes of Bar Italia, Chapter One and Ballyfin. Yes, it's expensive but it is a collab between Angelo Gaja & Alberto Graci. From late-ripening Carricante, this has aromas of grapefruit, anise and a touch of heady jasmine flowers; pristine and vibrant on first sip with weight and complexity following immediately and a taut finish with lingering minerality and salinity. Fascinating. Spirit of the Week Hawk's Rock 'Garavogue' 20 yr Single Malt, 47% ABV, €199 Hawk's Rock 'Garavogue' 20 yr Single Malt, 47% ABV, €199 World Wide Wines; CarryOut (e.g. Killarney); Celtic Whiskey; Matsons; The debut release from Sligo's Hawk's Rock Distillery, the first under Sazerac. Master Blender Helen Mulholland has come out strong with this stunner. Created from several cask finishes including Sauternes, Muscat, Rum and PX, yet they all melds seamlessly. Floral, honey and peach aromas, supple and beautifully smooth, pepper and fresh fruits on the finish. Whiskey of the year (so far!). Read More Wine with Leslie: Keep it in the family with these wine selections
Times
27-06-2025
- Times
Ireland's best bargain wines to enjoy alfresco
A summer wine's first job is to be cold and refreshing, and that means bright, zesty acidity and no heavy oak. Sauvignon blanc, riesling, albariño, gruner, some chardonnays and lots of Italian and Portuguese whites fit the bill. Oak brings weight, which is fine if you're eating richer foods or it's a chilly Irish summer day. Rohe Dillons Point Sauvignon Blanc 2024, NZ, 13.5 per cent, €12, Dunnes The best-value sauvignon blanc on the market? Probably. A top winemaker and top terroir sold at a Dunnes discount makes for stunning value. 91/100 Marotti Campi Albiano Verdicchio dei Castelli 2023 2023, Italy, 12.5 per cent, €13.95, O'Briens Verdicchio is brilliant with fish because its orchard fruit is backed up by zesty lime, making it perfect for summer. 89/100
