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Toronto Sun
a day ago
- Toronto Sun
Volunteers battling to save Romania's cultural treasures
Some 160,000 tourists came to Baile Herculane in 2024 -- up from 90,000 in 2020 -- many for spa treatments, but also for the hiking and climbing Published Aug 18, 2025 • 3 minute read Many historic buildings suffered during Romania's chaotic transition from Communism to democracy. Photo by Daniel MIHAILESCU / AFP Reviews and recommendations are unbiased and products are independently selected. Postmedia may earn an affiliate commission from purchases made through links on this page. Baile Herculane, Romania — Graffiti covers the crumbling walls of the main thermal baths in one of Europe's oldest spa towns. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. THIS CONTENT IS RESERVED FOR SUBSCRIBERS ONLY Subscribe now to read the latest news in your city and across Canada. Unlimited online access to articles from across Canada with one account. Get exclusive access to the Toronto Sun ePaper, an electronic replica of the print edition that you can share, download and comment on. Enjoy insights and behind-the-scenes analysis from our award-winning journalists. Support local journalists and the next generation of journalists. Daily puzzles including the New York Times Crossword. SUBSCRIBE TO UNLOCK MORE ARTICLES Subscribe now to read the latest news in your city and across Canada. Unlimited online access to articles from across Canada with one account. Get exclusive access to the Toronto Sun ePaper, an electronic replica of the print edition that you can share, download and comment on. Enjoy insights and behind-the-scenes analysis from our award-winning journalists. Support local journalists and the next generation of journalists. Daily puzzles including the New York Times Crossword. REGISTER / SIGN IN TO UNLOCK MORE ARTICLES Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience. Access articles from across Canada with one account. Share your thoughts and join the conversation in the comments. Enjoy additional articles per month. Get email updates from your favourite authors. THIS ARTICLE IS FREE TO READ REGISTER TO UNLOCK. Create an account or sign in to continue with your reading experience. Access articles from across Canada with one account Share your thoughts and join the conversation in the comments Enjoy additional articles per month Get email updates from your favourite authors Don't have an account? Create Account But after decades of neglect, a group of young architects is working to restore the picturesque Romanian resort that once attracted emperors. 'Someone once said that if you drink water from the spring from Herculane, you never leave,' said 31-year-old architect Oana Chirila. 'I was struck by the beauty of the place,' she said of the town in the southwest of the country, surrounded by mountains and crossed by a river. 'And at the same time shocked by its condition,' she said of the decrepit state of the old thermal baths. She first stumbled upon Baile Herculane eight years ago, purely by chance, she said. Architect Oana Chirila first stumbled upon Baile Herculane eight years agoDaniel MIHAILESCU/AFP Photo by Daniel MIHAILESCU / AFP Her group's restoration efforts here are just one of several recent civil society initiatives launched to protect some of Romania's historic monuments. Plan your next getaway with Travel Time, featuring travel deals, destinations and gear. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. Please try again This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. An estimated 800 of them are in an advanced state of decay or in danger of crumbling altogether. Some of those are already considered to represent a danger to the public. The neglect is the result of Romania's chaotic transition from Communism to democracy, which was marked by opaque privatizations, often resulting in interminable legal battles and investigations by anti-corruption prosecutors. Imperial history Built in 1886, the Neptune Imperial Baths attracted illustrious clients in its heyday, with its warm sulphur treatments. They included Austria's Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Elisabeth, popularly known as Sisi. Franz Joseph described the town as Europe's 'most beautiful spa resort'. Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph described the town as Europe's 'most beautiful spa resort'Daniel MIHAILESCU/AFP Photo by Daniel MIHAILESCU / AFP Now the baths are closed, their interior walls covered in graffiti, rubble on the floor and rain leaking in. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. Despite the decay, tourists still frequently stop to marvel at and photograph the long, rusty facade, some trying to peek inside through the broken windows. For the moment, Chirila and her team of volunteers are confined to doing conservation work on the baths' outer structure. They could not restore the building until legal disputes between the authorities and the private owners are solved, she explained, adding: 'There's always this fear that it might collapse.' Now the Neptune Imperial Baths are closed, their interior walls covered in graffitiDaniel MIHAILESCU/AFP Photo by Daniel MIHAILESCU / AFP 'Most of the historical monuments are in their current state –- meaning constant decay –- because they are legally blocked,' preventing any use of public or European funds for their restoration. For the moment then, along one side of the riverbank, people take dips in three basins with sulphur water — dubbed 'little bathtubs' by Chirila. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. It was her team that refurbished the basins and built the changing booths and wooden pavilions, one of a number of projects they have undertaken in the town. When AFP met her, about a dozen students were helping out with the renovation of a path through the woods. Vital intervention In recent years, Baile Herculane, a town of 3,800, has seen a steady rise in tourists, say local officials. Some 160,000 tourists came in 2024 — up from 90,000 in 2020 — many for spa treatments, but also for the hiking and climbing. Chirila's team has built up some infrastructure along one side of the riverbankDaniel MIHAILESCU/AFP Photo by Daniel MIHAILESCU / AFP 'The resort has changed,' Aura Zidarita, 50, a doctor, told AFP. She remained hopeful it could once again become a 'pearl of Europe'. Initiatives such as Chirila's have multiplied in recent years, according to Stefan Balici, president of the Romanian Order of Architects. This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. They represent 'a lesson in how citizens' initiatives can intervene in heritage preservation', in a country with little record of investing in the restoration of its monuments. Students carry out work around the town on a voluntary basisDaniel MIHAILESCU/AFP Photo by Daniel MIHAILESCU / AFP In 2019, young architects got involved in another spa resort, Baile Govora. Chirila admitted she sometimes feared her work on the Imperial Baths is like 'putting a bandage on a patient in sepsis'. But Balici had no doubt of its value. Without her intervention, he said, the building would be 'a pile of rubble' by now. Chirila said she also drew hope from those like herself who believed in investing in the country's heritage. 'Herculane ended up like this because of corruption,' she said. 'But we hope that thanks to good people it will heal.' Sunshine Girls Columnists Sunshine Girls Toronto & GTA Ontario
National Post
a day ago
- National Post
Volunteers battling to save Romania's cultural treasures
Baile Herculane, Romania — Graffiti covers the crumbling walls of the main thermal baths in one of Europe's oldest spa towns. Article content But after decades of neglect, a group of young architects is working to restore the picturesque Romanian resort that once attracted emperors. Article content 'Someone once said that if you drink water from the spring from Herculane, you never leave,' said 31-year-old architect Oana Chirila. Article content Article content Article content Her group's restoration efforts here are just one of several recent civil society initiatives launched to protect some of Romania's historic monuments. Article content An estimated 800 of them are in an advanced state of decay or in danger of crumbling altogether. Some of those are already considered to represent a danger to the public. Article content The neglect is the result of Romania's chaotic transition from Communism to democracy, which was marked by opaque privatizations, often resulting in interminable legal battles and investigations by anti-corruption prosecutors. Article content Imperial history Article content Built in 1886, the Neptune Imperial Baths attracted illustrious clients in its heyday, with its warm sulphur treatments. Article content They included Austria's Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Elisabeth, popularly known as Sisi. Franz Joseph described the town as Europe's 'most beautiful spa resort'. Article content Now the baths are closed, their interior walls covered in graffiti, rubble on the floor and rain leaking in. Article content Despite the decay, tourists still frequently stop to marvel at and photograph the long, rusty facade, some trying to peek inside through the broken windows. Article content For the moment, Chirila and her team of volunteers are confined to doing conservation work on the baths' outer structure. Article content They could not restore the building until legal disputes between the authorities and the private owners are solved, she explained, adding: 'There's always this fear that it might collapse.' Article content Article content 'Most of the historical monuments are in their current state –- meaning constant decay –- because they are legally blocked,' preventing any use of public or European funds for their restoration. Article content For the moment then, along one side of the riverbank, people take dips in three basins with sulphur water — dubbed 'little bathtubs' by Chirila.
South China Morning Post
2 days ago
- South China Morning Post
In Romania, volunteers battle to save country's cultural treasures
Graffiti covers the crumbling walls of the main thermal baths in one of Europe's oldest spa towns. Advertisement But after decades of neglect, a group of young architects is working to restore the picturesque Romanian resort that once attracted emperors. 'Someone once said that if you drink water from the spring from Herculane, you never leave,' said 31-year-old architect Oana Chirila. 'I was struck by the beauty of the place,' she said of the town in the southwest of the country, surrounded by mountains and crossed by a river. 'And at the same time shocked by its condition,' she said of the decrepit state of the old thermal baths. Architect Oana Chirila, 31, stands next to a reconstruction site of The Countess' Promenade and the Spring of Countess in Baile Herculane on July 29. Photo: AFP She first stumbled upon Baile Herculane eight years ago, purely by chance, she said.
